Top9jajamz:
Hello House

I use a Lexus rx300 and I have a CEL light which is caused by P1155, bad AF sensor.that's the only code from a scan.I gave my mechanic the task to replace
however I just realized my mechanic used a wrong part as replacement(an O2 sensor rather than Af sensor)
the original part number is 89467-48011 but the one used by my mech is 89465
I still get my P1155 despite the replacement
I would like to find out if you have the AF sensor and price or a work around to use the O2 in place of the AF sensor since they're almost same
Also can the old faulty sensor be fixed in anyway(say soaking in hydraulic oil or any other possible hack).
thanks

Top9jajamz:
Hello House

I use a Lexus rx300 and I have a CEL light which is caused by P1155, bad AF sensor.that's the only code from a scan.I gave my mechanic the task to replace
however I just realized my mechanic used a wrong part as replacement(an O2 sensor rather than Af sensor)
the original part number is 89467-48011 but the one used by my mech is 89465
I still get my P1155 despite the replacement
I would like to find out if you have the AF sensor and price or a work around to use the O2 in place of the AF sensor since they're almost same
Also can the old faulty sensor be fixed in anyway(say soaking in hydraulic oil or any other possible hack).
thanks

Justtobor:
Good morning pals..please where can I get the the rear reflector for my rx 330? please also the cost for brand new and used
location Awka..
N.B. I couldnt find it in the spare parts market at obosi

ayo2shine:
House member,pls what are the most frequent problem of Rx 300,I plan moving frm Honda accord to lexus very soon ,Do we ve any special treatment fr this brand cos my mechanic is saying its part are expensive and not Very available,say nissan product are better

Justtobor:
Good morning pals..please where can I get the the rear reflector for my rx 330? please also the cost for brand new and used
location Awka..
N.B. I couldnt find it in the spare parts market at obosi

lomomike:


Hello I've found it in Ibadan. Its NGN10,000 a piece.
If you wish to get it, do let me know.
I'm not the seller I'm only trying to be of help.

Justtobor:

Thanks alot lomomike..I just need to sort it out with d insurance guys..I ll get back to you when I am done.
thanks again

Justtobor:

Thanks alot lomomike..I just need to sort it out with d insurance guys..I ll get back to you when I am done.
thanks again

kakameks:
Hello,
Just joined the club.
2004 Lexus RX330 AWD.

My issue is with the car is the heater for the passenger side is faulty. the drivers side works fine both for cool and warm air via the Navigation controls, but the passenger side of the vent blows just cool air even if i raise it to the highest temp. it stills blows cool air.

I have tried it both in dual mode and with out the result is still the same. What do you guys think?

Aside from that the ride is lovely, smooth tranny, the ride is very comfortable not warning lights on the dash what so ever.

okadbest:
Hi lomomike, the brakes of my rx300 needs double pump to hold, my mechanic tells me the fault is from ther brake master. After searching in the whole of Ladipo, he says no one matches my car (I wonder!). He comes back later telling me the only one he saw is for 13k. Is that the price?

lomomike:

I Dont know the actual price in market. Various markets will quote various price. Also, sellers will equally quote various prices due to where they made their consignment acquisition from. To me, the price isn't much. Ensure your mechanic installs a genuine item and the brakes works well.

Emperoh:
So, my ES330 acts up this morning.

When i took delivery of the car in Nigeria, i discovered that an after market remote and theft deterrent system was installed. Mine comes with the capacity to start the vehicle without using the key. Just at the press of a button, the car come to life. However you won't be able to drive the car. Once you step on the brake pedal to engage the auto drive, the engine dies.

So once i am ready for work, before stepping out, i would normally start the car from inside my apartment. This is to allow the car warm up before i come out and drive off.

So this morning, i did my usual routine. But lo, the car won't start. Actually i heard a click sound, meaning it apparently tried to start. Even though i heard the doors unlock (i usually unlock the doors before i start). Well, I eventually came out and did some check and discovered that the positive terminal on the battery head was loose. This is quite unusual. But i fitted it back firmly and the car came to life. Problem solved. and i got set to drive out.

But here's where another issue cropped up. Normally at first start in the morning, You will get an RPM of as high as 1500 before it starts dropping as the engine heats up. It then hovers around 800 RPM once the engine is heated. If you engage the gear and switch on the AC, it drops further to say 600 RPM (engine revs up a bit to sustain the load). This speed is able to move the car when in Drive or Reverse (without stepping on your accelerator).

I really didn't notice anything amiss until i engaged Reverse. No movement! It would normally surge forward or backwards once you leave the brake pedal. But the car stood still. If not that i felt the gear engage i would think my gear has kaput. But on powering the car it moved. My eyes went to my RPM monitor and i saw my needle hovering around 300 RPM (at idle without load). I disengaged the gear and it still didn't move beyond 350.

But the car will only move when 'powered'. Long and short, i just knew my car was underpowered and this is unusual. Because of the battery terminal loosening, my codes were cleared. I drove out of the compound and stopped. Went back into my apartment to get my scanner. On starting the car again, i realised the engine won't hold power. It comes on and goes off. On the 3rd start, i just revved it and sustained it for 10 seconds and then I drove off. Got to the office 45 minutes later and ran a scan; the old O2 sensor P2241 was showing. Nothing new. As a precaution, i didn't use the AC. I kept observing to see what it was about.By the time i got to the office, with the car properly heated, idle speed was back to normal and hovered around 700rpm. I loaded the engine (AC and gear engaged). It revved up and looked normal. Everything seemed ok again.

So i am just wondering, what is this all about? Anyone had any previous ideas and can help?

lomomike:


Did you recently work on the car that necessitated your removal of battery terminal or it loosen and came off on its own?

The reason for the drop in RPM is due to the ECU reverting to default however, have a keen observation of the car for a week. On a side note, i'd advice against use of Aftermarket remote starter system. I dont feel confident with them.

Emperoh:


The last time i had anything to do with the battery was May 2014, when i just took delivery. The battery that came with it went bad and i bought the current one running on the car. Since then, nothing has taken me anywhere near the battery. I also haven't worked on the car. I plan on serving the car soonest; say in April. I plan to change the plugs and also the gear oil too. I notice slight hesitation when i step down on the gas pedal for more speed. Not sure if i can link this to the plugs though. But the car is just, just slightly sluggish.

How long should i use the gear oil? This will be my 3rd oil change since i bought the car and i haven't changed the gear oil alongside. What are your thoughts? Mileage is currently 127605.

lomomike:


if you dont know where to get 5W30 oil, just holla at me, i'll get it for you. As for your ATF, i feel you should check to confirm if its Toyota Genuine ATF type T-IV or Toyota WS oil. I can also get them if you dont mind. Really, id recommend To anyone personally to change ATF every 30,000miles. If you can get a very good scanner which can scan more functions such as ECT-s and MAF/MAP.

lomomike:

if you dont know where to get 5W30 oil, just holla at me, i'll get it for you. As for your ATF, i feel you should check to confirm if its Toyota Genuine ATF type T-IV or Toyota WS oil. I can also get them if you dont mind. Really, id recommend To anyone personally to change ATF every 30,000miles. If you can get a very good scanner which can scan more functions such as ECT-s and MAF/MAP.

Emperoh:


i think it is the genuine ATF. It is what came with the car from the US. I started using the car at 117k miles. Don't worry i have the oil and gear oil covered. My car recommends 5W20. My scanner is a Creader 123 and scans ECT, SRS and Tranny. Now for 5W20 and 30, do i still do change at 5k miles? Recall the discussion on when to change synthetic oil? Which is said to last longer.

eniyanpataki:



Hello Lokomike, i need the SAE 5W-30. Are you in lagos?

lomomike:


Im not too sure, but whats the engine type you have? Is it not 3MZ-FE?


If youre using 5W30, its 5,000miles or 6months which ever comes 1st.

Marpol:
Hi house, please what can anyone tell me about Lexus GX470? Am thinking of ordering a 2005 or 2006 model and am on the look out for the pro and cons of the suv.

Marpol:
Hi house, please what can anyone tell me about Lexus GX470? Am thinking of ordering a 2005 or 2006 model and am on the look out for the pro and cons of the suv.

Emperoh:


It is 3MZ-FE. . . . .3.3 Litre engine. I bet it will be the same for the 5W20. So i should hit 5000 miles in another 2 weeks or 1 full tank of fuel and a half. (65 litres of fuel give me an average of 330 miles of driving).

What do you think about the plugs?

Marpol:
Hi house, please what can anyone tell me about Lexus GX470? Am thinking of ordering a 2005 or 2006 model and am on the look out for the pro and cons of the suv.