mcTrinity:


have one I'm still wiring... see pics. Is yours different?

Barezzi:
Many thanks NiyiOmoIyunade for the very detailed response.


I believe this is already done at the transformer and the service entry point of most homes.

It's this very matter that worries me. When the inverter switches to battery mode, this N-E bonding at the service entry is lost.
If there's any fault in the house, one becomes a very healthy conductor of fault currents to earth! I also understand earth leakage
breakers will not trip in this scenario.

The general advice is to create a second N-E bond at the inverter that is active only when it's in battery mode. Anyway, our electrical gurus
in the house what's the code for hooking up alternative energy source (inverter/generators) at home?

zellfoxx:


Yes. There's no L1 and L2. Just L.
Looks like yours is a split phase model which i believe is supposed to supply just 120VAC if you wire just one leg (L1 in your case) input and output with neutral.

Mine is the Conext SW 4048 230V
What model is yours?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Further question please - I agree that neutral and earth/ground are almost certainly already bonded at the utility transformer but do people actually do same at service entry or distribution panel?

mcTrinity:


SW 4048 120/240v

Barezzi:
Yes, everything is all nice and good in "pass through" mode until the inverter switches to battery mode.

I understand the neutrals are bonded in "pass through" mode, but broken in battery mode. Thus leading to floating neutral issues.

In my installation, I simply looped both neutrals. I'm no electrician, but I've been told this "solution" is not very safe.

mcTrinity:


SW 4048 120/240v

jazzman2:


This is North American split phase 120v/240v, 60Hz system. Not compatible with our single phase 230v, 50Hz system.

zellfoxx:


Seems what I originally thought was a flaw is actually meant to prevent this unsafe loop on Neutral busbar.

After much thought and research today, I now see the reason for this is to enable compulsory Neutral 'bypass mode' on the CSW with the AC switchgear to maintain the N-E bond at utility grid instead of the 'pass through mode' practiced by many which cuts this bond.

On checking the manual for the split phase model, I found this page ( missing in the single phase manual ) that shed abit more light on the N-E bond.

PS: Because of our sub-par maintenance culture in this part of the globe, one can't rely on the N-E bond at our transformers to be really up to the task all the time. So its probably better to have it at one's Distribution panel at home...to prevent Floating neutral issues.

zellfoxx:


Seems what I originally thought was a flaw is actually meant to prevent this unsafe loop on Neutral busbar.

...

NiyiOmoIyunade:
My Oga. Many thanks.

The attachment you made clarifies in fairly simple language if and how to perform the Neutral to Earth/Ground bond correctly.

For the overzealous, this N-E bond if implemented must be done at only one single point in an electrical system - if you have more than one point of N-E bond, I would say one has basically created a parallel neutral circuit and made it virtually impossible for over-current devices to work correctly as well as difficult to predict which wires will remain energised in the system in the event of a fault and safety disconnect.

I am still undecided if one should bond the N-E at distribution panel - I would say if unsure leave Earth and Neutral alone and isolated on their separate buses.

Like Oga Barezzi pointed out this would make the entire ground at that installation a massive sink for fault currents but since the utility service is already bonded at mains transformer, I would say the only faults are likely to be generated locally within the electrical installation and I wager such fault currents will be relatively small and should safely sink to ground at the local Earth point.

OnePunchMan:
we handle the purchase of your solar installation accessories from the USA at 310 naira per US dollar and have them in Lagos in 10 days.. contact me via my number in my profile..

mcTrinity:


what are the intended loads on the inverter system?

how many batteries do you think you can afford?? 2? 4? 6? 8?

mcTrinity:
IS "ROY SOLAR" THAT BAD

For some weeks now, there's been some bad reviews on Roy Solar charge controller....


well, I won't outrightly say it is good or bad. Nevertheless, I have 2 Roy solar I've been using going to 3 years now and no issues whatsoever.

see attached pictures. one is for East facing panels and the other for west facing panels. the CCs always absorbs at 14.4, boost charge at 13.8 and floats at 13.5v. And the two are almost always at synch, in terms of their reading (1st pic)

I have a client that was using Roy solar on 8 batteries with 4 pcs of Mpower 250w panels on a 48v system. Back then, I've seen about 21A on a sunny day. Though after 2 years he upgraded to 16panels with MPPT. for those two years, the ROY served him and his batteries aren't dead. Have 2 more clients like that.

oga Niyi made a vital point in his last reply about "Source"
As long as RE is concerned and as long as this nation is concerned, substandard and rebranded products are everywhere. it boils down on your source.

I knew a man that, after 8 years, changed his Deka 12v/210Ah battery. he still bought Deka and after 5 months he said I should come and help him check his batteries that they are no longer performing well. Two of his 6 batteries (24v system) have deviated.
he's using magnum MS4324.
same load, same inverter, same usage...

I once shared on this forum how I bought original sunshine panels and few months after that I bought another set for upgrade only to discover the new ones were rubbish. same brand, same nameplate, same size... different cable and different connection box

SOURCE!!!

so those that complain about the Roy, I believe, they must have gotten a fake one. I don't know why it didn't serve them.

it's been serving me and just last 3 months, I dumped the mopower 900VA/12v for mopower 1600va/24v. changed to 24v system and the same ROY controllers are serving. just waiting for the batteries to die so I can move to 48v,,, with MPPT of course (Lolz)


so Vulcan,
like someone advised, read up on MPPT and PWM... the gurus here have explicitly and argumentatively explained their differences. it's either you google their differences or you start going back on the pages and actually read their practical differences based on various experiences.

But anytime, anyday MPPT rules...

In summary, I'm not saying you should go for Roy or not go for Roy. just sharing my PERSONAL experience.

cheers

VULCAN:
@McTrinity,
Thanks for responding.

I currently have 12X 2V but have never enjoyed it as I never got 6hrs from sundown with just 3 fans, energy saving bulbs and on rare occasions one of my fridges for an hour or two connected to inverter. It appears installer sold me refurbished batteries for the price of new.

I have a 24V/50A Roy Solar and 3.4Kva Bluegate Inverter

Now I am in the process of ordering 8X12V Gaston while I decide which cost effective inverter and charge controller to move to. Nepa is good in my area and 12hrs+ a day is the norm so the aim of inverter is just to avoid having to go back and forth when Power goes on and off in the middle of the night. I also hate the noise of gen. Lol

Thanks

kiekie1:
We recently acquired fairly used telecoms batteries and it came out good after individual testing & reading smiley .

Battery brand name: Ritar
Capacity: 12v 105a
Weight: 30/32kg
Description: Front access telecom battery
Price : N27,000 per unit

Quantity procured : 65 units
Sold: 61 units
In stock : 04 units left
Location : Abule Egba , Lagos state !
Deliveries : We waybill to any state (T&C applies)

Also available in limited qty:
12v 200a ...... N45,000
IN STOCK: 3 UNITS

Contact:
Sir Frankie
Smartcell global services
081-350-31951

VULCAN:
You hit the nail squarely on the head. Placing "the Source" as the focal point.


It's rather sad that most people are so focused on getting one over their customers so they feel no qualms about selling something substandard or ill fitting to one's needs.

Thanks.

VULCAN:
@mcTrinity,Thank you for your detailed response.

Have been using solar for two years now and after spending a fortune have only had substandard results obviously due to the ignorance of the installer. I am trying to start over again but no longer inclined to spend huge sums just to power a few items in my home. Apart from the 3.4KVA Bluegate inverter, I will also be changing the Charge controller but as I'm not yet decided on whether to upgrade to a 48V system i would like to know your thoughts on a cost effective brand whether 24V or 48V and either PWM or MPPT.

Gurus in the house are also implored to drop advice.

Thanks

makawhy201:
@Vulcan, sorry for experiencing the bad side of going solar, please if i may ask? whats issue you are having with your Bluegate 3.5kva inverter you planning to replace? cos i have been using the 2kva version for the past 6years and still working like new and never gone for repair for once even with constant abuse because I am considering upgrading to 3.5kva or 5kva model for my upgrade.

hardywaltz:

I used that Bluegate 2kva for close to 7 years, a very reliable equipment. Unfortunately it has only two stage charging (Bulk) then float.

It's more advisable to use Mustpower inverter.

VULCAN:
Hi earthrealm,

How much does the Mustpower cost? Does it have a loud low voltage alarm?

And what brand and cost is your Charge controller?

makawhy201:
@hardywaltz, well wont knw about the charging stages but i used my batteries on it for more than 5yrs before changing it during upgrade, also the 3.5kva and 5kva have 3 charging stages with 50A and 60A respectively.

earthrealm:


what type of battery, how many units?
did you hook up solar to it?
does it have batt type selector switch?

EnigmaticEnigma:
I have 4 dead GLT batteries and 2 dead Mercury batteries for sale.

Call 0817-194-2851.

Batteries hold voltage but no capacity, so dead!!

mcTrinity:


have one I'm still wiring... see pics. Is yours different?