Razak5:


Windows 10 right?

elvischukie:
yea bro... any solution?

elvischukie:
yea bro... any solution?

Razak5:


Hello.

Well, you do not have to uninstall it. Simply dis-able it. And don't forget to turn off your Wi-Fi too.

*cheers *

Razak5:


Yeah, a working solution.
Well, if you are not always bored with long tutorials then lests ride... It worked for 2 other people in this forum. My response to their request goes thus:

Hello
Before I go ahead with my suggestions, chances are

1 . You've tried the "turn on metred connection" and you probably didn't find it... No! I'm so sure you didn't find it

2. You've also "disabled" auto-updates. Why is the word, disabled in quotes? Because that main download still goes on in win 10.

*let's now move on...

You're going to try one last thing- [b] tweaking the registry[b/]


So, here we go >

Press Win key+R > in the run box (I need a better name ), type "regedit" without the quotes. This opens the registry editor.

In the registry editor, Navigate this path:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\NetworkList\DefaultMediaCost

Right click "DefaultMediaCost key" > select "Permissions" > this takes you to the security tab.

On the security tab, click "advanced" button. Click the "change" button next to "Trustedinstsller".

In the "enter object name" box, type Administrators, click the "Check Names" button to make sure you're typing the correct object.Click OK.

On the "Advanced Security Settings for DefaultMediaCost" , check the "Replace owner on subcontainers and objects"Click Apply > OK.

On "Permissions for DefaultMediaCost" , select the "Administrators group" , be sure to check the "allow Full Control" box . click Apply > OK.

On the DefaultMediaCost key, there are different entries, including those for 3G, 4G, Default, Ethernet, and WiFi with their default data values: 1 or 2.

data value 1 means that the connection type is non-metered,
data value of 2 means that the connection type is metered.
Double-click the Ethernet DWORD (32-bit) Value key, and change the value to 2.

*Do same for Wi-Fi.
>>>restart your laptop <<<

This explanation I just gave is from an article on windowscentral treating the same issue. I must say it saved a lot of my Internet data.

So before you contemplate a downgrade, consider this registry tweak.

*If you still experience huge data consumption after the above tweak, then you can go ahead with your downgrade...

To downgrade, you'll need a copy of Windows on DVD or flash drive.

Ofourse, to create a bootable DVD or flash go here:

https://www.poweriso.com/tutorials/how-to-make-win7-bootable-usb-drive.htm

Then here's how to format to win 8:

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-clean-install-windows-8-or-8-1-2626254


as always, backup your files before any upgrade/downgrade/format

... and of course if you ever want to save yourself the whole stress of following a long tutorial - just hola on 08128714767 - I'm on WhatsApp.

Razak5:


Yeah, a working solution.
Well, if you are not always bored with long tutorials then lests ride... It worked for 2 other people in this forum. My response to their request goes thus:

Hello
Before I go ahead with my suggestions, chances are

1 . You've tried the "turn on metred connection" and you probably didn't find it... ;DNo! I'm so sure you didn't find it

2. You've also "disabled" auto-updates. Why is the word, disabled in quotes? Because that main download still goes on in win 10.

*let's now move on...

You're going to try one last thing- [b] tweaking the registry[b/]


So, here we go >

Press Win key+R > in the run box (I need a better name ), type "regedit" without the quotes. This opens the registry editor.

In the registry editor, Navigate this path:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\NetworkList\DefaultMediaCost

Right click "DefaultMediaCost key" > select "Permissions" > this takes you to the security tab.

On the security tab, click "advanced" button. Click the "change" button next to "Trustedinstsller".

In the "enter object name" box, type Administrators, click the "Check Names" button to make sure you're typing the correct object.Click OK.

On the "Advanced Security Settings for DefaultMediaCost" , check the "Replace owner on subcontainers and objects"Click Apply > OK.

On "Permissions for DefaultMediaCost" , select the "Administrators group" , be sure to check the "allow Full Control" box . click Apply > OK.

On the DefaultMediaCost key, there are different entries, including those for 3G, 4G, Default, Ethernet, and WiFi with their default data values: 1 or 2.

data value 1 means that the connection type is non-metered,
data value of 2 means that the connection type is metered.
Double-click the Ethernet DWORD (32-bit) Value key, and change the value to 2.

*Do same for Wi-Fi.
>>>restart your laptop <<<

This explanation I just gave is from an article on windowscentral treating the same issue. I must say it saved a lot of my Internet data.

So before you contemplate a downgrade, consider this registry tweak.

*If you still experience huge data consumption after the above tweak, then you can go ahead with your downgrade...

To downgrade, you'll need a copy of Windows on DVD or flash drive.

Ofourse, to create a bootable DVD or flash go here:

https://www.poweriso.com/tutorials/how-to-make-win7-bootable-usb-drive.htm

Then here's how to format to win 8:

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-clean-install-windows-8-or-8-1-2626254

... and of course if you ever want to save yourself the whole stress of following a long tutorial - just hola on 08128714767 - I'm on WhatsApp.

elvischukie:
bro how good is windows defender?.. wana stick with it or any other better one?

computerboy:


it's perfect. update it at least once a month

computerboy:

it's perfect. update it at least once a month

wane01:
ello I have a slim WD hard drive 1tb that came with a hp15 notebook .. The windows went into automatic repair tool after giving it to an engineer to reinstall a new windows .. he said the drive won't accept to be formated (format button not clicking) and wouldn't accept a new o.s .. The hard drive also won't detect externally buh comes up inside a laptop I was told its due to bad sectors and can only be fixed by very few people being a slim hard drive .. I dunno if anyone has a similar experience or can be of help .. Am in Lagos though

Razak5:


... This issue dey bite you well oo...

Anyway, when do you intend to resolve it?

wane01:

As soon as i get who can fix it ..
i put in a 160 normal hdd nd d diff was clear in terms of speed.... vibration and even power consumption

Razak5:

Did the windows on the 160GB load correctly ?

elvischukie:
my dell consums alot of data, how do i minimize it

Kennyflyair:
Good day people. Please I need advice in choosing between these 2 external hard drives (Seagate and My Passport both 4 terabytes) The 2 of them are of the same price but I want to know which of the brands is of better quality before I buy them. Both of these harddisks are on jumia. Please those who are familiar with the brands should advice me. Thanks.

Razak5:


Hello there.

As a technician, (at least 2yrs plus-full time), I'll say I have changed more seagate hard drives than WD hard drives. Probably because of their popularity.

But soon enough WD became popular here and what did I observe ? - out of 10 bad hard drives, I had gathered, 2 were WD, 2 Fujitsu (do they still make hard drives ), 1 was Toshiba, and 5 - yes I mean 5 were seagate!

Well, seagate may have improved, but based on experience, people reported less crashes on the WD I sold them than seagate.

Oh, By the way, it's " WD My Passport" . "My Passport" is one in a series of their external hard drives.

Although the durability of your hard drive will depend on the way you handle it- this should be No. 1 then the rest follows.

Am I contradicting my self? No. The best Hard drives in the world still have moving parts and are sensitive to jilts and jolts - smash them and they will crash. Don't eject properly and they will crash.

So first, go for WD, next handle with care.

*cheers*

Razak5:


Hello there.

As a technician, (at least 2yrs plus-full time), I'll say I have changed more seagate hard drives than WD hard drives. Probably because of their popularity.

But soon enough WD became popular here and what did I observe ? - out of 10 bad hard drives, I had gathered, 2 were WD, 2 Fujitsu (do they still make hard drives ), 1 was Toshiba, and 5 - yes I mean 5 were seagate!

Well, seagate may have improved, but based on experience, people reported less crashes on the WD I sold them than seagate.

Oh, By the way, it's " WD My Passport" . "My Passport" is one in a series of their external hard drives.

Although the durability of your hard drive will depend on the way you handle it- this should be No. 1 then the rest follows.

Am I contradicting my self? No. The best Hard drives in the world still have moving parts and are sensitive to jilts and jolts - smash them and they will crash. Don't eject properly and they will crash.

So first, go for WD, next handle with care.

*cheers*

LethargiQue:
Guys..

Please help..

What is the best way to update all drivers on windows 10?


Im having serious driver issues on my laptop..

I think my BIOS driver is also problematic because the fan is noticeably louder and my battery drains faster at 2 hours on normal use..

Razak5:


Hello.

Simply go to this site- https://drp.su/en

Once you're on that site, you will be required to download an installer.

Once downloaded, run it. Then you will be automatically connected to drivers database of the drp site.

The tiny program is expected to look through your entire computer and install matching drivers.

Hope this helps

*cheers *


PS- there was a guy who has avoided clicking that link for 3 months because he felt I was promoting my site or something... Well he tried it 3 days ago and the sound of his system came up. He has been battling with sound for close to 6 months.