jidestroud:

Doing perfectly okay, most are at the breaker stage at the moment. Will be waiting to get to the red all ripe stage before harvesting.

Will upload pictures later tomorrow.
Thanks for the check up.

you're welcome bro

FMCASH:
Bro, how far with your tomatoes (cobra 26 and rodeo 62 f1)

On the update promised.

I must confess, I have been unjust to the Cobra in terms of size. The tomato fruits ain't bad at all in term of size. And the fruiting per stand is around 20-25fruits after almost doing the pollination thingy (very tiring).

For the Rodeo, the fruits were bigger but highest I recorded per plant was 10fruits, Lot's of the flower kept dropping (will look into that later).

The Cobra won't be a bad one after all.

jidestroud:
Yesterday/Today's Update.

Great news, getting a few additions to my tomato collection. Stopped by a friend's house into gardening and was gifted Tomato Nadira F1 . Though just 16 plants were given, I can't wait to get them into my garden in coming weeks.

Hurray!!!!

I can't wait to meet my Nadira tomatoes biko. Wish I could just fast forward this waiting days . Everything looks good and perfect. Treating the seedlings as if I were brooding day old broilers. Transferring them to the garden in the coming weeks, hope we win in the rains like we've always won.

jidestroud:


On the update promised.

I must confess, I have been unjust to the Cobra in terms of size. The tomato fruits ain't bad at all in term of size. And the fruiting per stand is around 20-25fruits after almost doing the pollination thingy (very tiring).

For the Rodeo, the fruits were bigger but highest I recorded per plant was 10fruits, Lot's of the flower kept dropping (will look into that later).

The Cobra won't be a bad one after all.

you're doing great bro. 2.5kg its not bad for corba but technisem staff said it can yield up to 5 to 7kg per plant which its hard to get from my own view too. Getting 2kg/plant from open field it cool. Kenyan has gone far, they do get average of 5kg per plant from open field.
Rodeo abort automatically to focus more energy on few fruits. 10 fruits from rodeo its average of 2kg/plant. That's perfectly okay too.

In conclusion bro, does Rio grande yield more to cobra from your view?

I heard cobra fruits are more attractive.

Also have few rodeo and uc82b in my nursery.

Cobra 26 f1, week 6 from my demo plot

FMCASH:
you're doing great bro. 2.5kg its not bad for corba but technisem staff said it can yield up to 5 to 7kg per plant which its hard to get from my own view too. Getting 2kg/plant from open field it cool. Kenyan has gone far, they do get average of 5kg per plant from open field.
Rodeo abort automatically to focus more energy on few fruits. 10 fruits from rodeo its average of 2kg/plant.

2.5kg is terrible boss now that you draw my attention to it. Seeing this only makes me feel I need to accomplish more. 5kg per plant from open field? and what variety?

7kg could only be achievable with cobra in a greenhouse (may be wrong sha ooo).

jidestroud:


2.5kg is terrible boss now that you draw my attention to it. Seeing this only makes me feel I need to accomplish more. 5kg per plant from open field? and what variety?

7kg could only be achievable with cobra in a greenhouse (may be wrong sha ooo).

Brother, you have reached what average to good farmers will get. Mind you, your plants are spaced well, but on the field, you don't have such luxury except you are prepared to run at loss. And like you rightly said, greenhouse may improve its yield, but 7kg per plant is absolutely impossible That's like 100 fruits per plant. And that means cobra has the potential of 70tons per acre and 175tons per ha. That's a big fat lie. Never listen to Nigerian so called technical experts of seed companies . They have never been to farm. Have you seen the pictures of these guys visiting farmers and pretending it's their work after wearing their jerseys and taking pictures on local farners' domains? You know more than them. They are just marketers. How can a plant of cobra give you 7kg? 3kg is absolutely very good per plant even under greenhouse. It has a very short harvest period. It comes and goes very fast. So, you see these modern Romas depend on extremely high population. 10,000 plants per acre minimum. You need strategy on creating for cultivating
minimum of 10,000 plants per acre. That's too much for me. lolz

And this is what seed companies want. Buy more seeds from them. They will not want to produce something of good quality esp those that have gained ground in the African market. You think 50gram of a variety at N12,000 is better than 1000 seeds (3.5grams) at N25,000. Lol. The challenges of the former and the cost of growing it might make the latter more cost efficient. But if you do not try, how would you know when the price of the seed chased you away (not you I am addressing bro...but kinda using second personification as my style). lol.

jidestroud:

For the Rodeo, the fruits were bigger but highest I recorded per plant was 10fruits, Lot's of the flower kept dropping (will look into that later).

When the plant is carrying enough fruit loads it can sustain, fruits abortion will take place. Another reason is that heat or rain can make it happen. It is why I always try to understand the variety very well, and understand the climatic condition I am working under to know how to proceed. It's not about just applying fertilizer, spraying. I have written about it many times, tomato is real brain work. [b]You may need to learn pruning for Rodeo[b], and maybe start looking into enzymes and other ways to fortify it.

Better still brother, ditch these varieties, and use what is good for your style. I kinda understand your style. And I think you are using wrong varieties. But funny, many will start coying you as soon as you get something working for you, instead of them to sit and get their own working formular too. With your level, I think you do not need too much hard work, someone can lift you with other choices. As long as you are willing to pay a bit high for some special varieties. You even do less work, and spend less money. Cheap stuff eventually are more expensive cos maintenance of cheap things is always expensive.

@Jidestroud, am trying to reach you on phone but your number is not going through and I send message to you on WhatsApp no response, pls reply me on WhatsApp or call me on phone abt what we discussed last. Thanks

LAWAL.

jidestroud:


2.5kg is terrible boss now that you draw my attention to it. Seeing this only makes me feel I need to accomplish more. 5kg per plant from open field? and what variety?

7kg could only be achievable with cobra in a greenhouse (may be wrong sha ooo).

jidestroud:


2.5kg is terrible boss now that you draw my attention to it. Seeing this only makes me feel I need to accomplish more. 5kg per plant from open field? and what variety?

7kg could only be achievable with cobra in a greenhouse (may be wrong sha ooo).

my brother, variety dey o, likes of kilele f1, newton f1, tenguru or what did they call it, if you visit there page on fb you will be wowed

MoreTech:
@Jidestroud, am trying to reach you on phone but your number is not going through and I send message to you on WhatsApp no response, pls reply me on WhatsApp or call me on phone abt what we discussed last. Thanks

LAWAL.

@Jidestroud, I cant read the message you send to me but pls send me message on WhatsApp or call me or just send your number that I can call to me. Thanks

Good morning, am still trying to reach you both on phone and WhatsApp but your number is not going through . Pls get back to me asap or your send your number to me I will call.

Thanks,

LAWAL

MoreTech:
Good morning, am still trying to reach you both on phone and WhatsApp but your number is not going through . Pls get back to me asap or your send your number to me I will call.

Thanks,

LAWAL

I have been mailing you since. I guess the mailing is having issues.

I was robbed of my phone over the weekend. Pls reach me on iclones@hotmail.com or drop a mail I can get to you.

Thanks

jidestroud:


I have been mailing you since. I guess the mailing is having issues.

I was robbed of my phone over the weekend. Pls reach me on iclones@hotmail.com or drop a mail I can get to you.

Thanks

Ha so about that o , I will mail you now

MoreTech:


Ha so about that o , I will mail you now

Ha sorry abt that, I will mail you now

FMCASH:
you're welcome bro

@JideStroud, I have mailed you to your email box pls do reply me as soon as possible.

Thanks

Tomato Update

The past week was marked with lots of downpours and it did a good one to my tomatoes with reference to my Rodeo Tomatoes staking .

Firstly, I got the whole staking wrong. I didn't account for such heavy fruits to start with; 180-200g on the average. My staking pattern gave way after much rains (and rain never start ooo!). The heavy fruit pulled most of the plants down breaking most off.

I would need to reinforce the plant both vertically and horizontally next time I have to do the Rodeo.

The Rodeo 62 F1

Resistances / Tolerances :
• Very good tolerance to TYLCV (Tomato Yellow Leaf Curled Virus)
• Good tolerance to bacterial wilt (Ralstonia solanacearum)
• Resistance to TMV (0), Fol (0, 1) and Verticilium
• Nematode tolerance

Characteristics of the final product:
Average weight = 180-200g Absence of collar Cluster of 4 to 5 fruits Jointed Excellent firmness Round shape slightly flattened


Attached is the Rodeo compared to the Cobra

For experimental purposes only, I will do more Rodeo just to see if I can push up the fruits per plants. And since I still have my stakes used for the cucumbers, I would be using them for holding them.

jidestroud:
For experimental purposes only, I will do more Rodeo just to see if I can push up the fruits per plants. And since I still have my stakes used for the cucumbers, I would be using them for holding them.

good job

jidestroud:
Tomato Update

The past week was marked with lots of downpours and it did a good one to my tomatoes with reference to my Rodeo Tomatoes staking .

Firstly, I got the whole staking wrong. I didn't account for such heavy fruits to start with; 180-200g on the average. My staking pattern gave way after much rains (and rain never start ooo!). The heavy fruit pulled most of the plants down breaking most off.

I would need to reinforce the plant both vertically and horizontally next time I have to do the Rodeo.

The Rodeo 62 F1

Resistances / Tolerances :
• Very good tolerance to TYLCV (Tomato Yellow Leaf Curled Virus)
• Good tolerance to bacterial wilt (Ralstonia solanacearum)
• Resistance to TMV (0), Fol (0, 1) and Verticilium
• Nematode tolerance

Characteristics of the final product:
Average weight = 180-200g Absence of collar Cluster of 4 to 5 fruits Jointed Excellent firmness Round shape slightly flattened


Attached is the Rodeo compared to the Cobra

Bro, hope you don't mind my suggestion. You will get more accurate data by using a mini digital scale to keep track of your progress. Also, take note of the number of flowers that aborted because they are your potential tomatoes. Please, take note that the more fruits, the more nutrients needed.

For example I was working on a tomato cultivar and after using everything in my brain, I could not just move it above 4.8kg, but I knew it could cross 8kg. I was getting the right number of fruits cos abortion had been tackled, but my main challenge was fruit sizes. I had done 5 good pilots (Infact this variety turned me to a tomato pro as I just said "Na me and you" but not satisfied. Everyone observing it were hailing me, but I was not yet satisfied. I used every enzymes I know. Not until I tried some seeds in bags. And one issue with me is that my bags are more organic. I used the best foliar treatment, and boom, fruits moved to 7.3kg per plant without prunning too much. I was shocked. Because I always keep data, and observation, I went through all my notes. This is no more practical but brain work. What happened? I just could not answer the question. Then, I went back to soil, did just 5 plants, this time just manure, and concentrated organic nutrients (I can't provide such organic materials for profit production cos of too much work...too tasking), and boom again, I reached 9.2kg. I was like "Chisos!". The challenge then was using inorganic nutrients. I started again. This was going to the 8th pilot (so, you can understand that it took me over 1 year) and I cracked my brain so much..I battled and battled. Guy, like Chief Zebrudaya would say "Fa Fa Fa Fa......Faooooo" Back to 4.0kg. Not until I gave a guy I was training tomato the same cultivar that I saw my short coming. And that was 4 months after I rested from it. The guy made 6kg but he used compost to top dressed like 3 times while I had used
prior just for basal, of course we both used NPK. That was how I entered hydroponics and said "Na me go unravel this mystery". This time, pure 100% inorganic, no manure. I formulated 3 nutrient solutions. I was astonished when I crossed 11kg per plant with giant fruits and extremely sweet with one of the solutions. Then, I knew where the problem was, and I put a call to the breeder. I told him that his variety is limited with salt. If salt is at the lowest level, it has the capacity to double yield. Make it tolerate salt more and you will see its capability, and I sent him details of my trials. Trust Oyinbo, he went back to his drawing board immediately. Like play, like play my name came out in one of his articles in his institutional journal. I felt fulfilled too.

@Pistotita

Pls boss, your suggestions is what I am currently working on as a matter of fact. But ofcos, I am mostly improvising at this pilot stages.

Steps taken so far;
1. I had to pasteurize the soil to use for the seed nursing. In doing this, I had to sieve the soil, rap in up in aluminum foil and placed in my gass oven to be heat to 200° for 15mins and left to cool down overnight.

2. For the ones I transplanted earlier, I had to add a bone meal to the compost used. (Worked with 1kg per 2 square meter)

3. Working seriously on my watering pattern around each tomato plant (including the cobras). I would be using homemade craters around a few of the rodeo plant.

Currently doing some research on salinity and my tomatoes. Likewise, playing around with nutrition to feed them with as I currently have a designed chart for different batches at their different stages in growth.

More update on the Rodeo loading...

Thanks once again.

I so much love this thread.. I can't wait to finish school and start my profession as an agriculturist, please keep the good work going.. I will keep on learning from you guys. massive grace to be successful in all ramifications.

Brainboxfid:
I so much love this thread.. I can't wait to finish school and start my profession as an agriculturist, please keep the good work going.. I will keep on learning from you guys. massive grace to be successful in all ramifications.

You can probably start small now. Buy some flower pots, fill them with soil or potting mix, and get to work!

jidestroud:
@Pistotita

Pls boss, your suggestions is what I am currently working on as a matter of fact. But ofcos, I am mostly improvising at this pilot stages.

Steps taken so far;
1. I had to pasteurize the soil to use for the seed nursing. In doing this, I had to sieve the soil, rap in up in aluminum foil and placed in my gass oven to be heat to 200° for 15mins and left to cool down overnight.

2. For the ones I transplanted earlier, I had to add a bone meal to the compost used. (Worked with 1kg per 2 square meter)

3. Working seriously on my watering pattern around each tomato plant (including the cobras). I would be using homemade craters around a few of the rodeo plant.

Currently doing some research on salinity and my tomatoes. Likewise, playing around with nutrition to feed them with as I currently have a designed chart for different batches at their different stages in growth.

More update on the Rodeo loading...

Thanks once again.

I've been pondering on how best to sterilize soil lately both as a starting medium and on-field.

So after pasteurizing your soil and planting, how do you deal with soil pathogens in the farm when you eventually transplant?

Seun:
You can probably start small now. Buy some flower pots, fill them with soil or potting mix, and get to work!

nice idea.. I will go for only pumpkin since there's no space in d compound.

Brainboxfid:
nice idea.. I will go for only pumpkin since there's no space in d compound.

Fluted pumpkin right? (ugu).
Cool.

excanny:


I've been pondering on how best to sterilize soil lately both as a starting medium and on-field.

So after pasteurizing your soil and planting, how do you deal with soil pathogens in the farm when you eventually transplant?

There are a few things I do when prepping the land for transplant.



1. I add lots and lots of compost to my soil. Luckily for me, I have got it in abundance from a poultry site.

2. When transplanting, I am not one of those who wets the soil around it. I observed that adding water increases the chances of the roots cutting off due to heavy wet soil.

3. I usually start transplanting when plant height is about 5inches. And I make sure I bury the stem of the plant to almost where I have the first leaves.

Note: When transplanting, I make sure I study the seeds information to know what the actual plant looks like. This helps a lot in working out the spacings to adopt. Also helps in staking methods. Unfortunately, I ignored that of Rodeo 62 f1 and I paid dearly for it

4. Another thing I observe now is doing my stake before transplanting. This helps eliminate destruction of new roots emerging as a roots of putting stakes around the plants after it has already been planted[/b].

5. Cutting off all lower leaves close to the ground is a thing I always do.

6. Lastly, I now mulch my tomatoes in my garden. Well, still observing how wood chips affects my tomato plants in the long run. Nevertheless, I still incorporate compost like every other week with addition of bone meal just once.

O yeah, I did add Neem cakes to my soil in the land prep. Got the contact of one of the people supplying neem oil to one of the Agro stores around. So, getting the neem seed cakes was easy.
Also made some myself.

jidestroud:


There are a few things I do when prepping the land for transplant.



1. I add lots and lots of compost to my soil. Luckily for me, I have got it in abundance from a poultry site.

2. When transplanting, I am not one of those who wets the soil around it. I observed that adding water increases the chances of the roots cutting off due to heavy wet soil.

3. I usually start transplanting when plant height is about 5inches. And I make sure I bury the stem of the plant to almost where I have the first leaves.

Note: When transplanting, I make sure I study the seeds information to know what the actual plant looks like. This helps a lot in working out the spacings to adopt. Also helps in staking methods. Unfortunately, I ignored that of Rodeo 62 f1 and I paid dearly for it

4. Another thing I observe now is doing my stake before transplanting. This helps eliminate destruction of new roots emerging as a roots of putting stakes around the plants after it has already been planted[/b].

5. Cutting off all lower leaves close to the ground is a thing I always do.

6. Lastly, I now mulch my tomatoes in my garden. Well, still observing how wood chips affects my tomato plants in the long run. Nevertheless, I still incorporate compost like every other week with addition of bone meal just once.

O yeah, I did add Neem cakes to my soil in the land prep. Got the contact of the people supplying neem oil this one of the Agro stores around. So, get the neem seed cakes was easy.
Also made some myself.

This makes sense. How did you make the neem cakes? How often do you re-apply after land prep?

I have some wild neem trees in abundance very close to my farm. Still wondering how best to work them into a large farmland tho.

jidestroud:

Fluted pumpkin right? (ugu). Cool.

yes..