Hello guys Honda CrV 2007

Which type of injector cleaner is good for it , am scared of just picking d ones I saw in fuel stations


Secondly please what's the type of Gear oil recommended for Honda CrV 2007. I think my gear is slipping especially when it wasn't to enter gear 3 it takes time or it jerks while shifting , at a point it won't shift , for the gear to enter I have to gently apply the throttle , and it's quite frustrating

lawmanlala:
Guys, my dc 07 was leaking power steering oil, I got a mechanic today to identify the source of the leakages n needed to replace the oil. I got this one called Virginoil power steering fluid n refilled after flushing the old oil. Does anyone know if this is a good oil.(pictured). I couldn't find the one labelled as Honda genuine power steering oil

honda vehecles are very sensitive to d type of oil used for servicing. Always get recommended oil type for your honda. Chat and buy honda oils from luvinhubby

Androidking:
Hello guys Honda CrV 2007

Which type of injector cleaner is good for it , am scared of just picking d ones I saw in fuel stations


Secondly please what's the type of Gear oil recommended for Honda CrV 2007. I think my gear is slipping especially when it wasn't to enter gear 3 it takes time or it jerks while shifting , at a point it won't shift , for the gear to enter I have to gently apply the throttle , and it's quite frustrating

.

Does 07 accord ball joint also pull out? I got a preowned in June this year, have not experienced this issue

lawmanlala:
Does 07 accord ball joint also pull out? I got a preowned in June this year, have not experienced this issue

Yes. Be observant

Androidking:
Hello guys Honda CrV 2007

Which type of injector cleaner is good for it , am scared of just picking d ones I saw in fuel stations


Secondly please what's the type of Gear oil recommended for Honda CrV 2007. I think my gear is slipping especially when it wasn't to enter gear 3 it takes time or it jerks while shifting , at a point it won't shift , for the gear to enter I have to gently apply the throttle , and it's quite frustrating

Anyone??

Dozieson:


Yes. Be observant

Thank you

I went on a long trip and I notice my car (Honda City 2007) would disengage itself from the gear. It would stop selecting gears but it would move.

But as soon as I park and allow it to cool for a while it moves and selects gears normally. After a like maybe 5 mins drive its disengages from the gear again but once i wait and it cools it moves normally.

Whike it was moving once it disengaged itself, I entered a pot hole it connected back and moved a bit before it disengaged again.

There is oil in the gear...

What could be wrong?

temi4fash:
I went on a long trip and I notice my car (Honda City 2007) would disengage itself from the gear. It would stop selecting gears but it would move.

But as soon as I park and allow it to cool for a while it moves and selects gears normally. After a like maybe 5 mins drive its disengages from the gear again but once i wait and it cools it moves normally.

Whike it was moving once it disengaged itself, I entered a pot hole it connected back and moved a bit before it disengaged again.

There is oil in the gear...

What could be wrong?

Is your own the type with the regular automatic or the cvt gearbox? When last did you change your transmission fluid? What exactly fluid did you use? Now that the weather is hot if you have substandard fluid in your sump it will affect your gearbox due to it's temperature not being within the right operational parameters especially after a short drive.

See, try to get a scan whenever that lncident happens next so that you can pinpoint where exactly the issue is coming from so as not to compound the issue with your mechanic.

From experience, it could either be caused by dirty/worn out fluid, wrong type of fluid (solution outright change of fluid) , an electrical issue eg. one of your solenoids malfunctioning (solution change of bad solenoid or tracing loose wiring) or worse a valve body issue (solution change of gearbox)

So apart from the fluid change the other solutions will depend on a comprehensive scan of your vehicle's gearbox system. Especially the portions I bolded in the write-up above. For the issue to rectify itself after you drove into a pothole it is possible it might be loose wiring.

Androidking:
Hello guys Honda CrV 2007

Which type of injector cleaner is good for it , am scared of just picking d ones I saw in fuel stations


Secondly please what's the type of Gear oil recommended for Honda CrV 2007. I think my gear is slipping especially when it wasn't to enter gear 3 it takes time or it jerks while shifting , at a point it won't shift , for the gear to enter I have to gently apply the throttle , and it's quite frustrating

Guys help na , and please what's the best ATF to use for my crv thanks

Androidking:
Hello guys Honda CrV 2007

Which type of injector cleaner is good for it , am scared of just picking d ones I saw in fuel stations


Secondly please what's the type of Gear oil recommended for Honda CrV 2007. I think my gear is slipping especially when it wasn't to enter gear 3 it takes time or it jerks while shifting , at a point it won't shift , for the gear to enter I have to gently apply the throttle , and it's quite frustrating

You can use any good brand injector cleaner you see for sale at those big brand petrol station pumps. If you know your injectors are partially clogged with dirty it is proper procedure to go to your mechanic for a tune up where he will clean your throttle body off carbon and then remove all your injectors and clean them one by one manually with some fuel and battery. For me if I feel my injectors might be partially clogged and I want to clean it without using all those fancy injector cleaners i usually fill my tank to half and then buy one litre of pain thinner and pour it into my fuel tank (note that paint thinner is very corrosive so make sure you have enough fuel in your tank before you think of trying this method as it might destroy the seals on your injectors if you didn't dilute it properly).

The proper gearbox fluid for tour ho da crv is ATF-DW1. Don't use anything (else except a proper dextron 3 which is temporary and must be replaced with the original fluid within 3,000 kilometres ro be safe) in order not to create problems with your transmission system.

As for the issue you're experiencing with your gearbox (which I marked in bold up there in your writeup) . I have experienced it before. Mine was a shift flare while shifting up from gear 1 to gear 2 only. With the help of a scan I was able to pinpoint the culprit after spending much on changing transmission fluid twice (I used a fake first and then switched to the original one) , cleaning the solenoids on the exterior of the gearbox and changing my transmission range switch.

I documented the procedure used in tackling the issue in the posts below :

https://www.nairaland.com/996664/maintenance-tips-honda-cars/341#111923379

https://www.nairaland.com/996664/maintenance-tips-honda-cars/342#112199773

But remember I was able to pinpoint the issue I had because I ran a scan. It was a small issue. I was initially thinking i would soon buy another gearbox and was saving up towards that before i found the issue. Scanning is important so you will know what exactly you need to look at in your gearbox.

Namzy:

Lol I remember having this issues for years until I changed the transmission when other faults developed. I was the only one that knows how to "shift" gently to avoid the jerk

Exactly, this issue is very tiresome and can make you vex and change the entire gearbox. You being the owner can manage it for years but you'd be scared of giving any random person your car to drive because they won't understand how to manage the gearbox shifting issue. If you give someone who is carefree and he drives it for a while with the shift flares, tyre screeching and jerking that person might end up damaging your gearbox mounts both up and down.

Conner44:


Is your own the type with the regular automatic or the cvt gearbox? When last did you change your transmission fluid? What exactly fluid did you use? Now that the weather is hot if you have substandard fluid in your sump it will affect your gearbox due to it's temperature not being within the right operational parameters especially after a short drive.

See, try to get a scan whenever that lncident happens next so that you can pinpoint where exactly the issue is coming from so as not to compound the issue with your mechanic.

From experience, it could either be caused by dirty/worn out fluid, wrong type of fluid (solution outright change of fluid) , an electrical issue eg. one of your solenoids malfunctioning (solution change of bad solenoid or tracing loose wiring) or worse a valve body issue (solution change of gearbox)

So apart from the fluid change the other solutions will depend on a comprehensive scan of your vehicle's gearbox system. Especially the portions I bolded in the write-up above. For the issue to rectify itself after you drove into a pothole it is possible it might be loose wiring.

I changed the oil about 9 months ago or there about.

I used Addinol CVT oil.. it's a CVT transmission.

How can I scan the gear box.. is it the regular scanners.

Thank you for your input

temi4fash:


I changed the oil about 9 months ago or there about.

I used Addinol CVT oil.. it's a CVT transmission.

How can I scan the gear box.. is it the regular scanners.

Thank you for your input

No you can not use the regular scanners for a cvt gearbox. You need a high end scan tool. Find someone who is an auto electrician that has links to someone who owns such a tool so that you can read fault codes from your cvt gearbox.

Conner44:


No you can not use the regular scanners for a cvt gearbox. You need a high end scan tool. Find someone who is an auto electrician that has links to someone who owns such a tool so that you can read fault codes from your cvt gearbox.

Ok boss..

Thank you

Conner44:


No you can not use the regular scanners for a cvt gearbox. You need a high end scan tool. Find someone who is an auto electrician that has links to someone who owns such a tool so that you can read fault codes from your cvt gearbox.

Is the tech person not supposed to have the fancy scan tool himself?

jceesquare:

Is the tech person not supposed to have the fancy scan tool himself?

You and I know very well that most Nigerians patronise kazeems and kazeem get levels.

So if his current kazeem doesn't have a high end scan tool then maybe he is friends with a higher kazeem who does

Conner44:


You and I know very well that most Nigerians patronise kazeems and kazeem get levels.

So if his current kazeem doesn't have a high end scan tool then maybe he is friends with a higher kazeem who does

Tor

Please o I want to ask o
If my fuel consumption is ok
I don't really know how it works
Just go this accord 03

Filled the tank and reset my meter
So far I have the below readings on my fuel guage

Pics attached

@conner44, what do u think about P0756 for honda accord DC i4. the gear is mad now. slips, doesn't enter D, D flashes light.
It enters R and slips too. I have changed both dual and single linear solenoid. But for the code up there, I am worried if this particular model has that shift solenoid B.

mejai:
@conner44, what do u think about P0756 for honda accord DC i4. the gear is mad now. slips, doesn't enter D, D flashes light.
It enters R and slips too. I have changed both dual and single linear solenoid. But for the code up there, I am worried if this particular model has that shift solenoid B.

Yep your vehicle has the shift solenoid valve B. From your code it is either malfunctioning or clogged with debri due to bad/dirty fluid. If you've changed your transmission fluid recently and the issue persisted I believe it's time for a teardown to see if there are any other issues present within the gearbox as you change/clean the affected solenoid (also don't forget to check the continuity and condition of its wiring while you're in there.

Your problem is that it's located inside the gearbox and not on the outside. See the pictures below for its location and check my prior posts here for a short guide on how to access it for maintenance. If you open up the gearbox and change it out/clean it up and you didn't see any improvements with the functionality of the gearbox then it means whatever is affecting the flow of fluid to that solenoid is situated within the valve body itself in which case you can either rebuild or replace the gearbox.

oladele239:
Please o I want to ask o
If my fuel consumption is ok
I don't really know how it works
Just go this accord 03

Filled the tank and reset my meter
So far I have the below readings on my fuel guage

Pics attached

That seems like abysmally bad fuel consumption I'm sure you have a check engine light illuminated on your cluster. Get a scan so you know what system is affecting your mpg.

Conner44:


Yep your vehicle has the shift solenoid valve B. From your code it is either malfunctioning or clogged with debri due to bad/dirty fluid. If you've changed your transmission fluid recently and the issue persisted I believe it's time for a teardown to see if there are any other issues present within the gearbox as you change/clean the affected solenoid (also don't forget to check the continuity and condition of its wiring while you're in there.

Your problem is that it's located inside the gearbox and not on the outside. See the pictures below for its location and check my prior posts here for a short guide on how to access it for maintenance. If you open up the gearbox and change it out/clean it up and you didn't see any improvements with the functionality of the gearbox then it means whatever is affecting the flow of fluid to that solenoid is situated within the valve body itself in which case you can either rebuild or replace the gearbox.

Okay bro, i will check it out. I have been on ur posts about such. I just want to try out all avenue b4 closing my mind on gearbox change.
Thanks

mejai:

Okay bro, i will check it out. I have been on ur posts about such. I just want to try out all avenue b4 closing my mind on gearbox change.
Thanks

That is the proper thing to do if the funds to change isn't floating around near you. The k24 gearbox isn't hard to work on. Most of these issues are tiny. So far your clutch packs are still okay the valve body can be replaced in a rebuild. If you open it up and you don't see metal particles in the sump (worn out/degraded clutches) then you have a 50% probability of just changing out the solenoid and you're good to go.

Good luck

Conner44:


That is the proper thing to do if the funds to change isn't floating around near you. The k24 gearbox isn't hard to work on. Most of these issues are tiny so far your clutch packs are still okay the valve body can be replaced in a rebuild. If you open it up and you don't see metal particles in the sump (worn out/degraded clutches) then you have a 50% probability of just changing out the solenoid and you're good to go.

Good luck

Alright!! The oil removed was free from debris too.

mejai:

Alright!! The oil removed was free from debris too.

Even on the drain plug? There should be little tiny metals stuck to the drain plug because its magnetic. It is normal. It's just part of the clutch deteriorating as normal wear and tear as these vehicles arr quite old.

Just open it up and check to see larger particles of the clutch. If you don't see any then go ahead and check the solenoids (clean all of them for good measure) and refill with proper fluid before testing. If you don't see any remedy then your valve body is definitely culprit.

Conner44:


That seems like abysmally bad fuel consumption I'm sure you have a check engine light illuminated on your cluster. Get a scan so you know what system is affecting your mpg.

Ok thanks
No check engine light though
I will scan anyways

....

Conner44:


That seems like abysmally bad fuel consumption I'm sure you have a check engine light illuminated on your cluster. Get a scan so you know what system is affecting your mpg.

Poor mpg was my greatest fear while trying to get a car. Well I guess it's here now

oladele239:


Poor mpg was my greatest fear while trying to get a car. Well I guess it's here now

This particular type of vehicle is fairly easy to troubleshoot. What engine does yours have? V6 or 4plugs? Well since you say you currently have no check engine light displayed on your dash and you're sure it has never displayed since you got the vehicle then I'd hazard a guess that either one of the following four things are involved . . .

1. Your vehicle had maybe displayed an error code but it cleared itself and went into the temporary DTC storage in the brainbox (it won't keep the check engine light permanently displayed) but the issue might still be there. A scan would let you know for sure.

2. Your vehicle is running in an open loop continuously (radiator cooling fans wired directly to ignition and thermostat removed) which will always make your vehicle consume more fuel no matter what because the engine will always be cold.

3. Your IACV (throttle body) is malfunctioning because of a vacuum leak. You will have to check your engine idle speed and maybe perform an idle relearn procedure to get your engine's rpm range back to default settings. It's usually between 700rpm - 850rpm when the gearbox is put in park or neutral mode P or N . So check to make sure your vehicle is idling properly.

4. Maybe you bought bad fuel that burns fast OR Your fuel level guage isn't properly calibrated (the sender unit on the fuel pump housing in the fuel tank has some issue or the floater rod is bent) , a mechanic can check this out for you later whenever you are changing the fuel pump. Sometimes mechanics can be careless and hit the fuel pump housing and it can lead to such issues.

It is also possible (especially if you recently purchased this vehicle) the seller has found a way to disable the check engine light to decieve the buyer into believing that all is well. The way to rule out this issue is by observing if the check engine light actually llights up once you insert and turn the ignition key to the II position and goes off once you've successfully cranked the car.

In all the pictures you've been uploading you've only been focusing on your fuel guage area. Don't you know the information on the entire cluster is relevant and necessary for troubleshooting issues? That's the window into your vehicle's wellbeing.

Next time take two pictures for me to see if your issue can easily be resolved online. Take one clear picture of your entire instrument cluster once you start the vehicle up cold (probably after it has been parked overnight) then drive it somewhere for 30 mins, park somewhere without shutting off the engine and take another picture of your instrument cluster again and post them here.

Namzy:


Mine is better than yours but still worse than the mpg stated. I'm getting like 9 mpg instead of about 21 mpg as I do mostly city driving. No check engine light but my scanner is showing intermittent misfire at cylinder 2 under misfire count. Which is not enough to trigger a check engine light. I'll change the spark plug and engine air filter and check the mpg again. With high fuel costs, we must aspire to get the best MPG possible

Cylinder misfires usually set temporary DTC codes and will only flash your check engine lights but also make your brainbox compensate by firing the other spark plugs in a manner to try and balance the required power needed without the malfunctioning cylinder. It will definitely make you consume more fuel. Even fake and substandard spark plugs cause bad mpg.

Make sure you get original iridiums and your coils are in order as well as you go to pick up the new intake air filter.

Conner44:


This particular type of vehicle is fairly easy to troubleshoot. What engine does yours have? V6 or 4plugs? Well since you say you currently have no check engine light displayed on your dash and you're sure it has never displayed since you got the vehicle then I'd hazard a guess that either one of the following four things are involved . . .

1. Your vehicle had maybe displayed an error code but it cleared itself and went into the temporary DTC storage in the brainbox (it won't keep the check engine light permanently displayed) but the issue might still be there. A scan would let you know for sure.

2. Your vehicle is running in an open loop continuously (radiator cooling fans wired directly to ignition and thermostat removed) which will always make your vehicle consume more fuel no matter what because the engine will always be cold.

3. Your IACV (throttle body) is malfunctioning because of a vacuum leak. You will have to check your engine idle speed and maybe perform an idle relearn procedure to get your engine's rpm range back to default settings. It's usually between 700rpm - 850rpm when the gearbox is put in park or neutral mode P or N . So check to make sure your vehicle is idling properly.

4. Maybe you bought bad fuel that burns fast OR Your fuel level guage isn't properly calibrated (the sender unit on the fuel pump housing in the fuel tank has some issue or the floater rod is bent) , a mechanic can check this out for you later whenever you are changing the fuel pump. Sometimes mechanics can be careless and hit the fuel pump housing and it can lead to such issues.

It is also possible (especially if you recently purchased this vehicle) the seller has found a way to disable the check engine light to decieve the buyer into believing that all is well. The way to rule out this issue is by observing if the check engine light actually llights up once you insert and turn the ignition key to the II position and goes off once you've successfully cranked the car.

In all the pictures you've been uploading you've only been focusing on your fuel guage area. Don't you know the information on the entire cluster is relevant and necessary for troubleshooting issues? That's the window into your vehicle's wellbeing.

Next time take two pictures for me to see if your issue can easily be resolved online. Take one clear picture of your entire instrument cluster once you start the vehicle up cold (probably after it has been parked overnight) then drive it somewhere for 30 mins, park somewhere without shutting off the engine and take another picture of your instrument cluster again and post them here.

Ok
Apparently the check engine light was disabled as you said. Here's my complete dashboard
It's v4