interested in home automation too. any practical experience to learn from here?.

Its been a while since I discussed my personal home set up.
I recently hit 3kw pv strength. my 2 yrs old trojans still firing like new. I have switched charge controllers from morning star to FM80 and now midnite classic.
I now live off grid and hardly drain my bank below 49.5v(with load) by 6.30am when I wake up. I now switxh off my 4kw mustpower(1.5 years old) inverter off when leaving home for work. once I return home ,I go tru d logged data. my batts reaches absorption usually by 1pm.

bigrovar:
the first thing that came my mind even before I saw the picture was.. charge controller is effed.. seeing the picture u posted just confirm my suspicions. My preliminary prognosis is those batteries died of being under charged for a prolonged period if time. Those controllers are pwm and there is no way they would be able to fully utilise the full potential of your panels...

This is just a preliminary prognosis. Solar has so many variables on what can go wrong which is why it is good to do proper research before you embark on it. Unfortunately lots of quacks out there burning people's hard-earned money on phoney installation.

What's the way forward. You need to supply the following information. Type of panel and their specs particularly the VMP.. What is the voltage of your inverter. 12 or 24v. How are the batteries connected series .. parallel or series parallel. Distance between your panel and your charge controller..

Without the above stated information it would be impossible to help you out.

Brother all hope is not lost Sha. Everyone makes one mistake or the other in their installation before learning .. the inverter and panel seem good. Might just need to change configuration and probably some equipment.. that CC for example has to go.

on point bigrovar.
abbe. make wee write an academic journal paper.



llolll

netotse:
Evening guys,

I'm wondering if anyone here knows the cost of the 'AC board' for the attached inverter. I've also attached a picture of the board.

I'd like to know the cost and location if possible.

Thanks.

c0ogumo has a. lot in stock. I have seen them in person.

nasonaso:





. Thanks boss I won't be in a hurry. Will take my time to learn more sir . I do appreciate

thanks for thinking positively. I promise you that u will never regret going solar.
Na like money ritual...Once ure in. , no way out.

I once told a friend on this forum that he will be dissatisfied with his 12v 800va system in less than a month. To my surprise, he upgraded to a 24v system in less than a week. that he never knew this tin sweet like this, his wife is now a superwoman because her fridge don upgrade too. lol.

so experiences like d one above are very important to learn from before starting so that u can value d little u start off with.

Yes money is very important but let the knowledge come first except u want to hire a professional. even at that u may be duped. so learn d basics brother.

be blessed sir.

ATH:
@Abunafiu,
How can I change the time setting on Morningstar MPPT charge controller from +0 (GMT+0) to GMT+1 (Nigeria time). . I have checked all the options but can't find how.

I also noticed in your post some weeks ago that you also left yours in default of (GMT+0).is there any reason for that or time can't be charged?

@Nasonaso
You don't need to be in an hurry. Start small but with best quality material.
I had 3.5kva inverter with 4 Batteries but when I started solar, the first thing I bought was morningstar charge controller, kept it and waited till when I had money to buy four 265W panels which served for almost one year before upgrading and so on.

People in my area are always coming to see my setup and wonder why I always have light. I always tell that I learnt from mistakes and experience of people on this forum. Please read through the posts .

I am not sure if I am correct. I doubt if morning star mppt have time setting menu.
I have used and install a few numbers of TSMPPT and I never came across time menu.
However, using the controller via ur laptop then viewing the live performance indicates time (ur laptop time).

If you are looking for cheap solar components. at least research why ure making ur choice.

bros, eyes don see oo..from panels to controllers and ultimately batteries. no be all our mistakes we dey post oo..
nasonaso , I hope I have shown you a clear path..d ball is in your cct

Nasonaso...kindly analyse the post below by bigrovar..


I have very little electrical background coming mostly from IT. The idea is to have a very small offgrid system which will power essential appliances in my house. Basically Home Entertainment system and Lights. I knew for a long time that my future would be renewable and to prepare for this, I gradually installed energy efficient 8w philips bulbs in my house. I also have a 43inch LED tv, a 1100watt 5.1 sound system, a laptop acting as a media center, and a dstv satellite reciever. From my estimate my total load for this system would be Max 600w. I have 90% of the component I require for this project which I intend to DIY with an electrician friend who will assist with grounding and other areas. I would appreciate if all the gurus can looking into my plan and point out areas I can makde improvements etc Design: PV I have 2 240w polycrystalline panels with the following specs VMP=30.1 IMP=7.78 I intend to have the panels mounted on the ground. Reason for ground mounting are as follow: * South facing part of my roof is completely shaded by 15:00 till sun set. (This is pretty much the main reason) * Since it is a rented apartment, not comfortable with tempering with the roof *Easy access to panels to carry out cleaning (Abuja can be very dusty) and ease of removal in case I leave the premise * Phobia for height Wiring, Distance and Losses The estimated length of wire which would be required to the power from PV to CC should be about 60feet. Hence I intend to connect the panels in series to reduce resistance and allow me use a 6mm cable with estimated loss of 3-5% (depending on the weather, position of the sun etc). I plan to use 10mm between the controllers and the batteries and batteries and inverter. Charge controller 3215RN Epsolar MPPT rated at 30A Batteries: 2 200AH SMF Sukam (I know I know - But it is what I could afford) Deep cycle batteries, connected in parallel Inverter 12v Sukam 1050v falcon plus inverter: would of loved to use something more industry standard but had to keep the setup within my budget. The falcon plus seem to be the best option availble to me (from all the low end inverter models out there) and here is why. It has built in temperature sensor for ATC and a SMPS for power factor correction and does the "6 stage charge" at least according to this review http://upsinverterinfo.com/su-kam-falcon-plus- inverter-unbiased-indepth-review.html It also could work in low current between 90v -240v. Anyway based on my budget it was what I could afford. Charge current = 14A Protection and Safety: I put a 10A Cbi vdc breaker between PV and CC, a 40A Cbi vdc breaker between CC and Battery, and a 63 vdc Cbi Breaker between Inverter and Battery. I also intend to put a 15A AC breaker between Grid and Inverter and a 20A AC breaker between Inverter and Load. I also intend to ground all the equipment from the panel frames to the panel, cc and inverter. Infuture and close to raining season I hope to get a thunder arrestor I intend to have all the load the inverter would be powering to terminate to a separate DB from the main house DB. This is meant to reduce issues of overloading the Inverter since only the load to be powered by the Inverter will be terminated to the inverter nothing more. Run time: I intend for the backup time for the system to be 6 hours. My max load is 450w.. lets say less than 500w * 6 = 3000 / 12 = 250ah. Because I have a battery bank of 400ah. I hope to ensure I don't pass the 62.7 state of discharge. considering that I will not be running all the loads at the same time. I expect the state of discharge threshold to be close to the 50% mark. When am out during the day, I might consider running the freezer with a timer based plug and set it to run between 12-14:00 depending on the weather. What I have: CC, Breakers, Panels,Inverter, Cables. What am expecting: Ordered 10 mc4 connectors from Aliexpress, a Killawatt meter, an MC4 Crimping tool and MC4 disconnect wrench. I hope to start the setup and installation once the tools arrive. There is pretty much my solar plan. I would appreciate if all the gurus look through and point out mistakes and suggestions.

chris81964:

Here we go again. What calculations did you use to arrive at 2 kw in panels?
Did you do an actual analysis of his usage? How many Watt hours did you calculations account for?

sir chris81964, exactly my point yesterday. The op should settledown and read old post to guide his analysis. He just confirmed my fear for him. He is now confused.
Without apologies this is why u observe many old time founding members of this thread hardly reply.
The op should sitdown and READ. A DIY person must be ready to do some research and then understand why he needs solar in the first place. What do u undrstand by 3.5KVA ?.

Oga if u no fit do research, your money go waste.

nasonaso:


Thanks boss
I got a quote of about 1 million for d 3kva complete solar system I need to power mY freezer, lighting points decoder n my led TV. D installer gave me a price of 35k for solar controller. I was thinking d higher d kva d higher d price of d solar controller. I do not no if am right

sir, there's no fast way out. You risk being confused and making d wrong choices. kindly avoid such mistakes by reading previous analysis. or better still higher a professional...u will get results in few minutes. consultation fee go dey ooo.
Bigrovar, I remember how long it took you before u took the 1st step. you were never in a hurry. today u are better informed.

nasonaso:
I need this urgently please. I need a 3.5kva or 5kva solar system. I am starting from the scratch I want to power my deep freezer, just one. No Air-conditioned system. What's d total cost of each cos am starting from d scratch. During weekends am always at home though not everytime. I need a analysis of wat it will cost me.
Cc Dmerciful. @ Kimmie

Cc juo Juo

Cc Bigrover

Cc CcOguomo

Analysis

With all due respect sir, kindly review previous analysis..then ask questions based on your findings.
Be blessed sir.

JUO:
the input voltage on the inverter is 190v. If the voltage drops below 180v the inverter will automatically enter battery mode. The avr is a scam. The 10a will charge your battery slower than 20a. The display looks like disc light. Battery and load bar is something else, not accurate. Please use the inverter voltage reading

avr in inverters is not like the normal avr.. inverter is inverter and must be sensitive to low voltage and as result automatically switch to inverter mode by default. . If you need something better get a servo stab from Prag.
so nothing is wrong with the inverter in question.
juo kindly review ur post...

pranil:


If you use invert AC ( daikin and LG sell such models in Nigeria) you can easily run ac on normal 3.5 KVA inverter with 10 KWH battery bank. I run two such AC's on my 2 x 200 Ah x 4 battery bank with 2 KWP panels on 5 KVA inverter without ever reaching 50 % DOD .\The AC's have a power saver mode wihc take as low as as 300 watt in the night

say more abeg. intested too. Can't wait for your reply sir

genex..nice to av you here sir..
can u deliver to any location?

Many thanks to these awesome guys.
Their individual support assisted me in many wayways towards achieving the desired result.
My oga richmond74 for his behind the scenes tips.

Coogumo for his discounts despite the exchange rate wahala on 16 units of US BATTS and 60 units of 150w panles.

One and Only sharp marketer for prompt delivery of 3 units of outback FM80 even though he later withdrew his discount. ..I really owe you guys my deepest appreciation.
My juo and babs KP as well as chris81964 for being a positive inspiration.

Kindly visit https://m.facebook.com/apexsolarnigeria/ for more pictures. I also count on your likes too.

Bought a number of L16 us batts from c0ogumo.
This is my first time of physically sighting the batts. From casing to cell design shows no difference from our beloved trojans. I consider them a very good alternative. A number of his T105 categories are still in stock.
I shall be updating this forum with performance update.

kiekie1:
Enroute, supplies all the way ... Keep your calls coming !!


*AUTHORISED DEALER PRAGMATIC TECHNOLOGIES*
All our prag / cyberpower products comes with reliable warranty

*AUTHORIZED DEALER SOLAR SHOP LTD PRODUCTS*
All our products come with 1 year Warranty

For best affordable prices,contact Smartcell Global Services,Lagos Nigeria. Simply call Sir Frankie "08135031951" for purchase,fast delivery and waybills .. Thanks !!

Thanks kiekie for d prompt delivery even though u no allow my phone rest for alert.
I must confess...ure simply reliable. Only that you av never considered any promo 4 me. Godwin.

chris81964:
AWPS Renewable Energy training on the Schneider Electric Inverters in Lagos.
Schneider put together an awesome class in Ogba

oga chris81964. welldone sir.
As an elder statesman in the forum. kindly consider sharing some of the notes with the boys.
I can see my brother babs KP as well. eku ise sir.

Saipro:


30A is fine. I wouldn't be much worried; you can check you logs to dispel your doubts. The truth of it, if you consider NOC (normal operating condition) values, your CC output should be limited to 33.5A (assuming a charging voltage of 57.6V; higher current when battery bank voltage is lower i.e. 37A @ 52V and 38.5A @ 50V). And here's the paradox: many CC would overstate the output (charging) power, mostly the current but occasionally both current and voltage. A good DC clamp or reliable voltmeter should set you right. My highest readings are typically on cool mornings during the rainy season or after brief showers with clear skies on rainy days. You might see the full charging power of your panels on such days.

To get more power out of a panel than its nominal rating would require either an unusually bright day (I've experienced "cloud edge" brilliance on occassion and was able to get full rating but not above it - and this has been independent of panel brand) or ambient temperatures lower than 25^oC (I saw this in two intallations in winter [USA]; not happening anytime soon if you're not in Northern Nigeria, in which case the dusty air lowers panel efficiency). Any way you look at it, NOC prevails and you typically get about 73 - 80% of the rated panel power. When in doubt, whip out your meter and take simultaneous readings. Trust your meter and not your CC display.

Regarding experience with MorningStar MPPT, ask Abunafiu. He "lives" with one.

All said and done, your system is working seemingly perfectly; don't go tinkering with it thinking something is wrong when nothing is. Beneath is a picture of cloud edge values from my 2.16kW of panels on a cool day while using a 24V config.

PS: I made offset adjustments so readout values could be accurate. Even the acclaimed Midnite was about 0.3V off on the PV and 0.2V on the battery bank. Previously, cloud edge gave 2,182W as an all-time high. Post-adjustment high was 2,152W

saipro:
on a lighter note, I suggest you bring down your grammar to our level. To be serious, I sometimes have to read and read ur lines before understanding u.
I think I am speaking the mind of others too.

I couldn't read the above post due to my brother's grammar... but I can confirm I use 9 units of 120w mono joysolar. comnected in 3 by 3. so far so goood. my daily harvest is 4.5kwh average. I do get 7kwh sometimes too.
pdozie, just try and get it right with ur controller and batteries. u can buy panels and inverter as God waters ur pocket.

Here's the youtube link to see a summarised process of how us batts are manufactured.
You can only compare if u have a spare trojan to open to confirm my story.

Deep Cycle Battery 101 manufacturing - OEM ending - YouTube -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFtepc9Tpmc&itct=CDQQpDAYASITCLnSls3B08oCFdIOHAodHiAH6lIRZGVlcGN5Y2xlIDEwMSBvZW0%3D&gl=NG&hl=en&client=mv-google

JUO:
I think cell efficiency will be the difference. But one must outlast the other

Yes bro, it can never be ruled out as a possibility.
I shall post a link to a video on how I discovered the US batts internal structure which assisted me in fixing my trojan.

c0ogumo:
********** SOLAR DEPOT NIGERIA ***********

For those in doubt about US Battery, please check out the specs link below.

http://pdf.wholesalesolar.com/battery-folder/usbattery/RE-L16.pdf

Email: info@solardepotng.com Mobile: 0803 260 2629
www.solardepotng.com

I honestly believe no one is doubting the US batts. Most of us including myself are always afraid of change. I have personally r esearched the US batts and I discovered its no diff from our beloved trojan.
Let me share my experience:
pls note: all I write here 2nite is my personal opinion and does not in any way mean I am 100% correct.

Few months ago, I discovered one of my trojans had an internal injury which made the batt read zero volt. I tested all 3 cells and discovered one of them is not connected. (I don't know what caused it).
I knew that if I open the battery, ill be able to fix the problem. As an academician, I began seroius research to find out how the internal structure of the T105 batt look like. My research led me to us batts. I can boldly say that" its either trojan copied us batt or vice versa".
I used the schematics I found from us batt to repair my failed T105 . I observed that both batts are d same in cell technology and internal design. it contained all the feats advertised by trojan. I dont know who is copying who among the two giants.
I even saw a video of how us batts are made but trojan kept theirs a secret. Trojans remain the market leader maybe because of their "packaging" but I believe us batts are similar to trojans.
I hope to use the us L16 for my next client.
Though, I don't think I have ever posted on this forum that I install for people but by d grace of God, I'll do this with us batts to show everyone that there's nothing wrong with them and I personally is not in doubt.
I am aware a friend (pharyn) is likely to be the first to use them within the nairaland solar forum, I want to encourage him to tell us how it went since he has now tasted both worlds.

And for those who cant afford both usa batts, I can boldly say that the mercury tubular being peddled by that aggressive marketer is a very good alternative. I had d privilege of installing 12 units of them with 15 units of 300w yashi mono panels and the result was impressive. I took time to observe the cells and was amazed as I doubted if they were mercury or trojan L16. (pls don't argue except u av seen both side by side).
But I have a strong feeling that mercury may reduce their standard in subsequent batches but the MADE IN USA BATTS(trojans and US) can never compromise standard.

pdozie:
My Learned people, please help me out with this (CC: Chris, Saipro, Abinafu, Rich etc)

My 2.5KW panels runs off a 45A controller. With a 2x5 configuration (2 in series and five parallel strings). Each Panel has approx of 8.6A which is 43A for the 5 strings. Rated 24v.
I plan adding about 2 more panels. If I add the string to the existing ones, it will take the Current to 51.6A. That means the 45A controller will leave some juice to waste right?

Option one is to upgrade to 60Amp controller

Option two is to get another 45A controller, connect the new panels to it and parallel the output of the controllers

Option three is to change the strings configuration 3 x 4 (3 in series & 4 parallel strings). This will maintain a current of 34.4A which the existing controller can handle. But the voltage from the 3 strings could rise as much as 123v.

Option 3 is more economical but is there Any implications or trade-off in terms of efficiency? The Controller can handle max of 150v though.

I saw the The following attached diagrams in the controller manual. (Battery Current Vs Array Voltage) and (Tristar MPPT 48v Efficiency). One is showing that Current to the battery starts reducing at 140v, which seems OK for my option 3. The other is showing efficiency is higher at lower voltage.

Please advice

This particular subject have been discussed here as far back as 2013.
I'll not answer ur question directly but I'll tell you what I use personally.
9 units of 120w mono panels (24v each) . I connected 3 in series to form 3 by 3 config. I have never experienced any drop in efficiency rather I observe sometimes even 120% efficiency.
I have used it on 12v, 24v and 48v systems without issues.
Note: my 6mm wires got hot whit 12v and 24v systems. .I use 60amps mpppt with 16 units of T105-RE trojan batteries @ 48v.

BRIGHTSOLAR:
LUMINOUS INVERTER
875VA/12V BRAVO 32,000 900VA/12V ECO 34,000 1.5KVA/24V ION 53,000 1.5KVA/24V ECO 53,000 2.5KVA/36V CRUZE 110,000 3.5KVA/48V 140,000 5KVA/72V 240,000 5KVA/96V 230,000 7.5KVA/120V 330,000 10KVA/180V 450,000 15KVA/360V 855,000 20KVA/360V 925,000 30KVA/360V 1,350,000
BATTERY RACK BATTERY RACK 2 BATTERY 7,500 BATTERY RACK 4 BATTERIES 20,000 BATTERY RACK 8 BATTERIES 30,000 BATTERY RACK 10 BATTERIES 40,000

AUXONA INVERTER
925VA 12V INVERTER 25,000 1500VA 24V INVERTER 35,000 3.5KVA 48V INVERTER 90,000 5KVA 48V INVERTER 180,000 5KVA 96V INVERTER 170,000 3KVA 24V HYBRID INVERTER 200,000 5KVA 48V HYBRID INVERTER 270,000


CHARGE CONTROLLER 20A 12/24V MPPT CONTROLLER 16,000 30A 12/24V MPPT CONTROLLER 18,000 40A 48v MPPT controller (LED) 50,000 30A 96v MPPT controller (LCD) 120,000 60A 48v MPPT controller (LCD) 95,000 60A 60v MPPT controller (LCD) 120,000
MORNINRG STAR TS60 48V/60 90,000

SOLAR PANEL
130w Solar Panel Poly = 16k 200w Solar Panel Poly = 29k
Bright Solar Power ONLINE STORE FOR SOLAR PRODUCTS SOURCING
info@brightsolarpower.com.ng
Call-07058562938
96 Ewusi Street Makun
Sagamu, Ogun State
www.brightsolarpower.com.ng

Kindly share some pictures. ..especially the small mppts u have. tx.

semitunde:


Pls, Can you give a configuration with cost, of a 5kva inverter supply with solar panel?

The capacity and type of batteries needed, type of inverter recommended, type/size/no of panels and cost for the required solar panels to charge the set up?

Thanks.

I suggest you go tru bigrovar's post ahead Where he presented details to assist in recommending solar panels etc.
You need to list ur appliances and the number of hours of use etc.
They way you placed your question might not get answers here.
so kindly rephrase sir.

I thought I was d only one here following Tesla batteries.
No doubt, tesla is future.


Frank kiekie1 has promised to deliver a unit of 10kwh to me as my new year benefit... Lol.

Berrylite:
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Thank you and God bless you

Nice analysis. Silently following your updates.

bigrovar:
Happy new year all the Pro and DIY gurus in the house. I have been following this thread from the sidelines for a very long time now while I put together my first renewable energy system.

I have very little electrical background coming mostly from IT. The idea is to have a very small offgrid system which will power essential appliances in my house. Basically Home Entertainment system and Lights. I knew for a long time that my future would be renewable and to prepare for this, I gradually installed energy efficient 8w philips bulbs in my house. I also have a 43inch LED tv, a 1100watt 5.1 sound system, a laptop acting as a media center, and a dstv satellite reciever. From my estimate my total load for this system would be Max 600w. I have 90% of the component I require for this project which I intend to DIY with an electrician friend who will assist with grounding and other areas. I would appreciate if all the gurus can looking into my plan and point out areas I can makde improvements etc

Design:

PV
I have 2 240w polycrystalline panels with the following specs
VMP=30.1
IMP=7.78

I intend to have the panels mounted on the ground. Reason for ground mounting are as follow:
* South facing part of my roof is completely shaded by 15:00 till sun set. (This is pretty much the main reason)
* Since it is a rented apartment, not comfortable with tempering with the roof
*Easy access to panels to carry out cleaning (Abuja can be very dusty) and ease of removal in case I leave the premise
* Phobia for height

Wiring, Distance and Losses
The estimated length of wire which would be required to the power from PV to CC should be about 60feet. Hence I intend to connect the panels in series to reduce resistance and allow me use a 6mm cable with estimated loss of 3-5% (depending on the weather, position of the sun etc). I plan to use 10mm between the controllers and the batteries and batteries and inverter.

Charge controller
3215RN Epsolar MPPT rated at 30A

Batteries:
2 200AH SMF Sukam (I know I know - But it is what I could afford) Deep cycle batteries, connected in parallel

Inverter
12v Sukam 1050v falcon plus inverter: would of loved to use something more industry standard but had to keep the setup within my budget. The falcon plus seem to be the best option availble to me (from all the low end inverter models out there) and here is why. It has built in temperature sensor for ATC and a SMPS for power factor correction and does the "6 stage charge" at least according to this review http://upsinverterinfo.com/su-kam-falcon-plus-inverter-unbiased-indepth-review.html It also could work in low current between 90v -240v. Anyway based on my budget it was what I could afford.

Charge current = 14A

Protection and Safety:

I put a 10A Cbi vdc breaker between PV and CC, a 40A Cbi vdc breaker between CC and Battery, and a 63 vdc Cbi Breaker between Inverter and Battery.

I also intend to put a 15A AC breaker between Grid and Inverter and a 20A AC breaker between Inverter and Load.

I also intend to ground all the equipment from the panel frames to the panel, cc and inverter.

Infuture and close to raining season I hope to get a thunder arrestor

I intend to have all the load the inverter would be powering to terminate to a separate DB from the main house DB. This is meant to reduce issues of overloading the Inverter since only the load to be powered by the Inverter will be terminated to the inverter nothing more.

Run time: I intend for the backup time for the system to be 6 hours. My max load is 450w.. lets say less than 500w * 6 = 3000 / 12 = 250ah.
Because I have a battery bank of 400ah. I hope to ensure I don't pass the 62.7 state of discharge.

considering that I will not be running all the loads at the same time. I expect the state of discharge threshold to be close to the 50% mark.

When am out during the day, I might consider running the freezer with a timer based plug and set it to run between 12-14:00 depending on the weather.

What I have:
CC, Breakers, Panels,Inverter, Cables.

What am expecting:

Ordered 10 mc4 connectors from Aliexpress, a Killawatt meter, an MC4 Crimping tool and MC4 disconnect wrench.

I hope to start the setup and installation once the tools arrive.

There is pretty much my solar plan. I would appreciate if all the gurus look through and point out mistakes and suggestions.

I have attached a schematics of the project.

A brilliant analysis. I personally appreciate the way you explained every bit in ur post. You have done nothing wrong sir. You have just demonstrated that one can start a solar power sytem even with a relatively small budget. I humbly request you come back with results so that many other sideline readers can equally benefit.
Being in a rented apartment is not a barrier at all.
waiting for ur results sir. Meanwhile, permit me to share ur story on my facebook page.

earthrealm:
users of ep solar:
am a lil confused abt mine..........the batt SOC values usually show abt 93% around 10am n then as charging continues..it reduces to 70% and even 51%...........i dont really understand..
am wondering if there is anything wrong in the parameter...especially the 2nd pic {thats the parameter setting...its adjustable by user}

saipro!

Been observing the engiNearz for sometime now. We are all learning sha. Sometimes analysing a series parallel combo can be confusing. konnections146 posted a diagram. he has summarised it all. no need for further arguments.
Let's have a change of topic. How is the harmattan dust in your area?

I believe everyone remembered prof dora akunyili.

You may have to compare and contrast.
Nigerians stood by and prayed for her without seeing any picture.

yemisolar:


While we wait for the oga's at the top, I have used (and still) install Indian brands. I was in your shoes a couple of years ago and it was a humiliating experience.

While I don't want to condemn you because I have learned a lot of from your posts here on Nairaland, I think it was wrong for you to promise two years of service life. There is a reason why the manufacturers only give 6 months. The primary line of business for most of these companies is inverter production, what they do is outsource their battery production to Chinese companies. The number of cycles in these batteries is less than 400 making the lifespan just about a year. The exceptions occur in areas with good power supply and extra energy efficient clients, as we all know most Nigerians have a wasteful habit.

For me I stick with exide and quanta batteries, the no1 and no 2 in India respectively. They are a little more expensive (about 10k higher) but so far (a little less than four years) I have had a good experience with them.

As for your clients, make them a good offer such as staggered payment in order to remedy the situation. Best of luck.

I sincerely appreciate your honest response. I still wait for other senior friends comment.
Meanwhile, I have sent you a pm.