₦airaland Forum

thebigkendo:
Interesting.. So you mean Radautoworks has been selling synthetic oil for me as conventional

Bros: I responded to the best of my knowledge. Can I see the data sheet for that oil? Had it been I can get like 250ml, we run the analysis and send you the results

AshipaEk0:
Egole stop-start 5W30?

I'll get back to you latest by Monday.

thebigkendo:
OKOKOBIOKO....


South africa vs Amelika oil war coming soon

Ascendo how much is your Conventional 5W-30

There is no CONVENTIONAL 5W30 like I stated at the beginning of this thread. All base oil that will get to a viscosity as low as 5cst is synthesised already.

All our 5W20 or 30 are Full Synthetic Blends

thebigkendo:
OKOKOBIOKO....


South africa vs Amelika oil war coming soon

Ascendo how much is your Conventional 5W-30

Even as some are blended in SA; they use same formulation and core grade base oils... Research about Blendor Facility in Durban SA. http://www.blendcor.com/about.php

While most of Castrol Synthetic Blends comes from the EU: Castrol "Professionals" Titanum specs come from EU only.

See this...

...synthetic brake fuilds

...

...available in drums as well

...

..

...

All are available...

I'm not rooting for 20W50 because I don't have synthetics in stock. My reason is that people should stop demonizing 20W50. The formulation has its reason which I've stated earlier.

dru23:
I don't believe in any synthetic blend bro ... it is either full or conventional oil.... Full synthetic is a goal........even Aunty Rad said part synthetic is a scam .....

Bros, we don't have to argue about this...

AshipaEk0:
climate being a factor for oil is COLD CLIMATE at START UP when engine is cold.


Weather below ZERO where things are frozen.

If your oil is not light enough it becomes a problem at start up because not won't flow fast enough to lubricate the engine.

Even worse is when you use mineral oil that congeals like fake groundnut oil in the cold......

This thing is not even hard to understand

That's why it's not only about the specifications written on the body but the origin.
If a blending plant uses Russian grade base oils to give you 5W20...my brother, 20W50 manufactured from American Core grades base oils is far better than it.
Another thing to consider is which Lab tested the finished products and passed it for use? What tests were carried out before these products were passed?

As for temperatures, there is an equipment called CCS-Cold Cranking Simulator the effect of the oil on a cold weather start up will be verified. Then it'll go through Foam Sequence Bath at 40 and 100 degrees and pass only when it didn't foam...it MUST go through Viscosity Tests at 40 and 100 degrees and the changes in the viscosity looked at. It will also go through Open Cup or Closed Cup Flash Point Tester to check the flash point and particle counting Test must be done and passed as well.

Our problem here in Nigeria is that the Regulatory Bodies aren't doing enough to check the activities of sub standard industries.

Once your API classification is satisfied, you are good to go as long as you've considered the age of the engine-very important.

Oil has four functions:
1. Cooling
2. Sealing
3. Cleaning
4. Lubricating

And your oyel MUST satisfy all these requirements.

drered:
Hey guys.
Since we're talking engine oils, what would you advise on this? 

I drive a 2011 Toyota Camry with a mileage of about 196,000. What is the best engine oil for high milage cars like this considering manufacturer recommendation?

The former owner used an organic oil which I recently just changed to the manufacturer recommended 0W20 - (Synthetic, Toyota)

At 196,000kms: if you can't get Part Synthetic oil-10W40, then got for API-SN or SL of 20W50

dru23:
So you want to sell water to a well?

Since you import, I'll take the stress and risk away from you so that you face your business squarely.

dru23:
Obviously you and ikenna351 know a lot better than the manufacture. Maybe you guys should start building your own engine..


PS.. Imaging somebody giving out there 2015 range rover for you to help do oil change... so 20W50 u go use for a 30million naira car....?

For engine manufactured from 2008 to 2012, part synthetic is better ie like 10W40...but from 2013 upwards...its strictly synthetic ie 0W20, 5W30, 5W40...

I can help you get all these if need be..

dru23:
At the end of the day my brother... my point is for people to follow and read the owners manual at all times.. If you are using 20w50 instead of 5w30 ,you are causing more damage to your cars... 5w30 is a multi grade oil ,meaning good for hot and cold climates.... Your engine are design to accommodate certain levels of thickness.. Meaning if your engine is designed to 5w30, 10w20 etc u now go and part 20w50 which is the most thickness , you end damaging ur engine... that much thickness will not flow properly ...it will seems as if it's been force ..
On the other end if you are using engine that is not thick enough by the manufacture .. Your engine will not get enough lubricant to grease the engine.. You end killing the pistons and other engine components... when engines are made ,they are made to take certain oil grade and weight.. That is the reason u need to read owners manual..

Also, Remember that 20W50 is Multigrade as well. Monograde are those lube with SAE40 kind of API

dru23:
At the end of the day my brother... my point is for people to follow and read the owners manual at all times.. If you are using 20w50 instead of 5w30 ,you are causing more damage to your cars... 5w30 is a multi grade oil ,meaning good for hot and cold climates.... Your engine are design to accommodate certain levels of thickness.. Meaning if your engine is designed to 5w30, 10w20 etc u now go and part 20w50 which is the most thickness , you end damaging ur engine... that much thickness will not flow properly ...it will seems as if it's been force ..
On the other end if you are using engine that is not thick enough by the manufacture .. Your engine will not get enough lubricant to grease the engine.. You end killing the pistons and other engine components... when engines are made ,they are made to take certain oil grade and weight.. That is the reason u need to read owners manual..

I know what Im telling you. Get a Toyota Camry 1999 model and check the Engine oil Cap. You will see 5W30. Buy a 5W30 and use on it, you will notice that the oil dries up. Most of the times, these cars arent meant for the market we are using them in. Check Toyota Products from SA, you will see that there is a table for selection and you will see 20W50 there.

Do you want an evidence? Check the picture attached for Selection chart. You MUST consider TEMPERATURE before selection but OilGrade ie API Classification MUST be maintained

This is my field!

Stop saying what you dont know. There has never been any car produced that is "Nigerian Spec". When you buy a Canadian Spec, the lube specified on the manual has considered the temperature of the region where the car will be used. 5W30 or 0W20 are light oil whose pour point(the temperature at which oil ceases to flow) are very very low hence the lubricant is still effective even at -5 degrees C. For Nigerian Climate which is mostly hot, 20W50 seems to be the best lube you can use on older model cars produced earlier than 2008 because of the following:
1. Most times, they dont dry up unless there is leakage
2. Their sealing properties are high
3. Also, though they have high pour points, Nigeria doesnt lie close to the temperate zones.

But make sure the API classification of the engine oil you are using matches with the recommended value. There are C (for diesel engines CD, CF, etc) and S (for gasoline engines SF, SD, SJ, SL, SN etc, ).

Where are IGBO AMAKA? It's time we embrace ourselves as a nation and be great again

This car is too clean!

Save us oh Lord

ok

Lols... Funny?

Nice

Nice

Nice one

Location?

Argh...