Baztardidiot:
Quack

ah ah baba you no even allow am land... you don knack am title. wetin e do you na?

jceesquare:

Make I shock you more.
We're friends on Facebook too

haaaaaaaaaaa e don finish.
rotf I swear I still never unravel who you be ooo

jceesquare:

We do talk and even in one WhatsApp group but I guess you no know.
07089030689

Are you serious?

Hehehe make I save your number

jceesquare:
Where have you been?

my guy... na hustle jare.

i kukuma dey enter NL wella. but i rarely comment due to the very negative nature of peoples comment.
decided to ignore all that and revive the thread.

we suppose connect off NL o... zero seven zero 62222 nine nine eight
make we connect via whatsapp

HAPPY NEW YEAR OOOOOOOO MY PEOPLE!!!
It truly has been a very long while but I am back now.
if you have any issues with your vehicles you can kindly drop them here let's help with a guide to solving it.

jceesquare:

Several factors could affect your fuel economy (assuming your engine is in perfect condition).
Low tyre pressure, binding breaks, wrong tyre size and type, occupants and loads in the boot, drive terrain (hills, stop and go traffic, and a host of other conditions), unnecessary modifications that would affect aerodynamics, and most importantly your driving style (hard acceleration, hard breaking, and not coasting when necessary)

Omo thank you for holding forth o my guy... damn see as cobweb don full everywhere.

guestaccount:
stumbled on this topic and showing mine for eyes to feast on

absolute beauty... love the stance

chris81964:

Initially to remove the old fluid. If you don't flush, you do a drain and fill. Subsequent times the wrong fluid. I followed the manual and it would jump out of gear in the morning till it warmed up. The last drain and fill improved it. One more and I am good to go.

care to explain "wrong fluid"? what fluid was that in particular and what fluid corrected the slips?

cbrass:
So i asked My Rewire to help me check why my car was draining the battery, and he said that he would install one device like that that would shut down the system when I parked the car.
The issue now is the car is not starting again, I asked him to return the car to the previous state but still not cranking.
I noticed that the red security light still blinks even when the keyfob is in the ignition.
When I start the car I see REDUCED BREAKING POWER START THE ENGINE showing on the dashboard but the engine won't start.
Someone said that it could be that the secondary battery of the car is low and that we should charge it, that that could cause the problem.
Right now I am so perplexed, don't know how just a simple fix can affect the car not starting.

The Car is Benz E320 2003

Sometimes when there is an issue with the ABS/ESP/SBC, you get that notification on thr dashboard.

Does the instrument cluster show the gear the transmission? I mean is the cluster showing kf it in Park or Reverse or Neutral, drive etc?

cbrass:

I wish I saw this earlier, would have taken the pics. the security light is a small black device very close to where the light switch is,just on top.
The car was scanned today and got this code Mercedes Benz v46.70
When i googled that code it brought pictures of an ignition coil.

This is surely not the code
That's the version of software for Mercedes Benz installed the scanner.

The expected code should be something like
Pxxx, Bxxx, Cxxx etc like that

e.g. P0300, P0018 etc

RIPPLEEFFECT:
TOYOTA CAMRY 2007 V6 SPORT EDITION...

This car has a name. You can call her "BAMBI". She is my true love. She gives me peace of mind. She is the most reliable queen among her pairs.

I took extreme care of her. Feeding her 2GR-FE super smooth engine with Mobil 5000 5w-30 Synthetic oil at every 4k miles. The grear gulps Dexron VI Synthetic Transmission fluid every year for the past 2 years now. You can confuse this car for a well maintained foreign car.

Brand new 215/55 on custom but pimed out rim 17 tires bought around May 2023. Fuel tank is alway filled to brim. Brakes on check steadily. Suspension like a bouncing castle. Lathered interior, Up-to-date papers and permits.


Cons:

A.C not working. Fault (Spoilt compressor). After replacing the custom one with an automatic OEM eastside certified compressor, it worked for roughly 8 months before it packed up. I bought the so called tokubo almost immediately, that lasted for less than 5 months before packing up too. All three compressors are with me.



Add ons:

American Spec!

Well maintained polished first body.

9kg fire extinguishers.

R17 215/55 spare tire and custom rim.

Active Tracker.

Extra engine fluid, transmission fluid, break fluid, steering fluid with coolant.

131k and counting strong millage (not tampered).

(VIN) 4T1BK46K77U509780.



NOTE:

I have spent blindly and heavily on BAMBI overtime and she has served me extremely well in return. I love her so much. I never knew a day will come that I'll let her go.

I'm letting her go because, I need money for a very serious business. As crazy as this might sound. There is a high chance that I will buy her back after multiple turnover on my business deal.

Please come along with your mechanic, remind him/her to bring a scanner too, BAMBI is extremely healthy besides her con listed above.


PRICE:

#3,800,000 or 3,800 USDT. (Not Negotiable) don't you even dare!!!

LOCATION:

Gwarimpa (Abuja).

CONTACT:

(0-nine-02583184-one)

happy sales chief
i looooove the fact you took great care of this vehicle and you were sincere about the issue with the AC.
Another advantage is you can provide information on how well you have maintained the vehicle (vehicle history).

once again... happy sales.

Billiebaba:

You should be careful with the way you use English to vaguely explain procedures you have zero knowledge about, that’s not how parasitic drain is troubleshot

Laughed my ass out when I read it

theadeola:
Hello house.

My 2008 Accord has been giving me a particular issue that has defied all the solutions I know. The car has a code P0011, and the error message is this: A Camshaft Postion- Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance Bank 1.

I checked online and did some easy fixes; changed the oil and returned it to factory spec (previous owner was using 20W50 and ran fans direct, which I corrected).

Then I cleaned the vtc filter and took out the rocker arm solenoid to service it. Nothing changed. I eventually changed the rocker arm solenoid, as it had a code anyway and the change cleared it.

I did some more research and arrived at the intake camshaft solenoid. I had mine serviced, and it looked like it had been serviced before. It didn't clear the code. I got a replacement part, and that also didn't clear the code.

I am at my wits end, really. I have no rattling sound in the morning at startup, only a rattle at 2000-2500 rpms when driving or when the car is 'raised' at idle.

Pls I need ideas on why else to do to fix this problem.

Asides the error code storee, do you have any drivability problems?

chukel:
complete thrash

My oga... Abeg add 100% complete total trash
.because wtf does that even mean?

gayman99:


Find attached pictures as requested.

Nice wheels...

Sorry about the ordeal.
kindly provide more information about this vehicle, model year and specifically what parts did you swap out and didn't have any effect?

Jollos:



Thanks for your contribution, I will do as u suggest.

But I was thinking since the Engine run for 3hrs nonstop on bad road to cover 36km. Won't it cover more on highway when the road is good for the same liters of fuel for 3hrs?

It's still comes down to ur suggestions sha

ofcourse it will cover more distance for same litre of fuel.

Jollos:
Good day NL,

I use a pathfinder 4.0L engine V6, today I covered a distance of 36km on a very bad road. The journey lasted for 3hrs non stop due to the bad road. With some heavy load inside the car at some point during the journey.

Pls is 18L fuel not on the high side for a journey of 36km although on a very terrible bad road.

personally I would say it is difficult to say. Because
1. you were probably moving at crawling speed due to the bad road.
2. at some point you carried very heavy load.

Do you notice vehicle manufacturers usually give 2 mpg ratings i.e urban and highway. This is because both conditions are different. And have you also noticed urban driving which is basically stop and go uses up more fuel than highway driving?

in your case, even though the journey only lasted for 3 hours, you cant judge your fuel economy based on that as it is not an ideal situation to guage fuel consumption to get a better view do the following, try to find out how much fuel your vehicle will consume if you travelled 36km of a free way.

1950Mack:

New or very sound injectors has their internal organs looking clean or brand new. See pictures of new injectors we have in stock as example. Even though an injector is still in use, if maintained properly the interior will look neat and free from carbon or other debris which clogs fuel supply line - clogged fuel lines usually results to hardstarting or rough idling of the engine.

I must confess i am very happy to see content on heavy duty truck diagnosis... Nice one at OP... I wil be following your postss closely.

Kingdemu:
Absolute nonsense

if e dey pain you oya go court

una no even wan give this guy breathing space.
kind of curious to see which Benz he says has such terrible mpg.

Mokelu:


Absolute nonsense

una dey vex oooo

Sirnioking:
The bad noisy crankshaft metal was replaced with a tokunbo.

Crankshaft metal? That's interesting.
I was thinking it had to do with the VVT/Camshaft because usually such noise only at start up is mostly a faulty VVT actuator on camshaft.

Sirnioking:
I recently worked on my 4 cylinder engine that makes a 2 seconds rattling noise after starting each morning. After which the P0011 code came up and refused to go. I bought a tokunbo VTC solenoid sensor it did not work. A rewire suggested it was a faulty brainbox switch or something. He opened the box, replaced a tiny switch, after driving home the lights came back again. The check engine often comes along with VSC light off and a screeching tire sign. I am sincerely tired of this issue. Kindly suggests ways I can fix it, please. Thanks.

The whole timing system needs to be properly checked and inspected.
your problem might be in the electrical side (wiring & ECU), hydraulic (oil related) or mechanical (VTEC actuator, timing chain etc).

Can you also possibly shed more light on how the noise was fixed? asking because some road side techs usually weld the variable valve timing control permanently. that might take care of the noise but definitely the VVT system will not work any more. and ofcourse you will have alot of timing related error codes stored.

Amadosibina:
Good day friends
What’s the fuel economy of Mercedes wagon c-class (with compressor) like?

A retired is thinking of buying one
Kindly advice
Thank you

@op be more specific about which model of Class you're talking about.
the model year will greatly help offer more accurate advice.

Kenosky1:


A retired person should be thinking of a Corolla or Honda Civic, the fuel consumption is quite high for a C-Class... 14 MPG. Cost of maintenance is also high unless he is resides at Benin with good mechanic.

the w202 has an M111 kompressor engine
the w203 has an M271 Kompressor engine
the W203 also has a M271 Kompressor engine.

NONE OF THE ABOVE ENGINES HAVE SUCH TERRIBLE MPG.
However we learn everyday, kindly back up your claim with facts and your source.
thank you.

chris81964:

I don't like them. It removed the wandering at speed but it is not firm enough over bumps

you mean you removed the new shocks?

thanks for the updates so far. really enjoying the thread. very rare seeing a deliberate car owner taking great care of their vehicle. at the rate you for don spend enough money to but the car again just on maintenance...

Piyke:




Finally posted the Liqui Moly valve clean video. I'm impressed that this supposed valve cleaner also cleans pistons.
Took multiple treatments, but we'll worth it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWKIycwZtY0

cc'ing the usual suspects😇
9icetoo
aieromon
paix
Kirkman
olenyi
nnamokenna
sooperrescue

this is really nice... well and video too. properly elaborates the results gotten.

mejai:


I see am o 🤣🤣. Him and police story

tor...

chris81964:
Replaced the fuel filler and radiator cap. I would smell coolant and there were no visible leaks. In traffic the temperature Guage will nudge up making me to turn off the AC. The cap is pressure rated and it was no longer doing its job. I pushed on it and it was stiff and made squeaky noises. Temp Guage has remained steady and no more coolant smell. There was always a loud hissing / whoosh sound when I removed the gas cap. It also had tape all over. The next refill I will check for the noise.
I also got an alignment done after replacing the steering boot on both sides.

nice one

mejai:

Bia, which Kain thing b this? When u never buy, u were engaging people. Now u don buy something, u no wan show us 😡

Haven't you noticed he has been creating different threads for all his life problems?

Angrygoat:
U r daft

For the first time I agree with you on this ...

7bucklife:
I just recently got brand new spark plugs about 2 weeks ago. I noticed its consuming fuel like never before. Pls is it normal. I got them for 8000 naira pack ngk. Or did I buy fake,I have a sample which I will upload soon.

Higher fuel consumption is a factor of so many things. Although fake spark plugs producing weak sparks can affect engine performance. The brainbox will adjust and spray more fuel in order to produce more power and this is to compensate for the weak spark.
However, the way you sound, for you to have noticed the higher fuel consumption it feels like there is something else causing this higher fuel consumption other than the plugs

Can you provide more details on what job was done the day you replaced the plugs?
Also how much fuel did you use for certain distance covered compared to after you replaced the plugs?

You need a competent tech to help you diagnose.
Let him check your MAF/MAP sensor signals, O2 sensor signals, fuel trims etc.

That should help guide in the repair process.