tobao:
OP, did you succesfully resolve this issue?

With all the scatter gun approach from different people? I doubt it.

Na wa for people wey dey shout say Camry no fit do uber. I have a number of guys using the camry for Uber/Bolt without any problem.
The corolla is just super expensive to buy. Although it gives better fuel economy compared to the camry, still the camry is very ok for Bolt. especially if you get one that is well maintained and not abused.
OP as suggested if you see clean camry, since that's what you mind wants get it. Fuel consumption difference is very minimal.
Also consider the Honda Civic, Yaris, Elantra.
At a budget of 2.7m you can a get a clean used '08 to '13 corolla.
Best of luck to you.
One last thing. Whether you decide on corolla or camry, toks or naija used pls get a reliable and trusted mechanic to help you with inspection before purchase.

oriste:


Result is out after scanning

Sorry for late reply. Not been frequent on NL as before.
As suspected, you have misfires on several cylinders.
Has the cause of the misfire been found now?

Felicity001:


Which of the SAM? the one in the engine bay, beside the steering wheel or in the trunk?? I don't have water issue but will check tomorrow morning.

Car stated and worked well today after same problem this morning on the 1st start. More thank 5 more starts it worked well without any issue at all.

The front SAM is the one responsible for actuating the starter motor (kick starter).
Ensure all relays and fuses are clean and sitting well. Sometimes dem dey cause that issue of kick starter not responding.

Felicity001:


Very true at the bolded.

Come dash me the car nah make I take do some guys pepper body small

Okay to all my ogas in the house pls kindly assist as I've been having this issue with my car for almost 3 weeks now.

About 4-5months ago my key feel into a very deep gutter and after about 1hr of getting it out it corrupted the ignition and the brainbox shut down the car entirely.

Removed the ignition mouth took it to ladipo and a reprogram was done and car came back to life.

A month after car wouldn't start but after a while it will start until one Sunday when it didn't start at all. Kick start was replaced and car worked perfectly again.

Like 1 or 2 months after car won't start after putting it off but when another battery is used it starts well with just a single crank.

PS: Just a twist of the key on ignition my car usually start.

So, on this fateful night after clubbing to go home car didn't start... Lol used a friend's battery, no way!

Next morning my electrician came and as if he had a magical hands cars started without doing anything.

No no no!!! Oga how did you do it? Donut again. He did and car started what??!!

I did same, put it off and did same way he did, it started. Hmm!

We moved, and noticed gear wouldn't select very well. Hmm!

Now, this is the new starting technics, turn and hold key till car starts. The first few seconds of holding key you won't hear any cranking sound at all but after like 3-5 seconds it cranks and start and when you engage gear you'll hear a hit sound from the gear like it was forcefully put into gear. Instrument cluster will display error message (visit workshop) and the P sign would still display despite car in motion, gear won't exceed the 1st. No matter the distance covered.

But sometimes if car starts by just a single twist of the key everything works perfectly well, gear selects normally and the P changes immidately to R, N and D.

My electrician said it's my key, that I need to change it completely.

Who has'd similar experience b4?
Subj: W203 C200k

cc: kewtt, kingreign, automoTech, nakoks and co.

I believe you have 2 seperate issues here.
The starter motor (kick starter curcuit) and the cranking issue.
For the cranking issue what I see is for some reason "yet unknown" your car intermittently goes into limp-home mode aka emergency mode. That's why you experience the harsh gear shift, cluster shwoing P while vehicle is in motion (I suspect the gear selector or gear range sensor is failing. They are a very common fault in the w203)
From experience the following should be checked;
1. CAN BUS. If you see signs of water ingress clean it with petrol and fix back. Clear error codes. Test drive and see.
2. Perform a full system scan and take note of error codes in:
i. Transmission
ii. ESP
iii. Gear Selector module.

One of these is the reason the car goes into limp mode. A full system scan should help narrow down what the possible problem is.

Felicity001:


Not until you need one to buy then you'd known it's very scarce

Oya find one for the bros up there na

Oya I dey go find one now now

Felicity001:


A very rear breed
It seems mercedes Benz produce just 10 of it. Very scarce

All users I've contacted that has it are not ready to discuss any sales at all

Are you referring to the C-class Coupe as rare breed?
Baba he motor no rare o. E plenty wella if you need am you go see am.

Felicity001:


The thermostat was changed and since this issue was reported the system has been working fine.

Will drop update in either a week or 2.

Thanks to you all

Alright.

nakoks:


He should change the console( before the price madness it was 5k).

On the other hand, if it was a faulty console I dont think the AC should work when cleared with the scantool (personal opinion).
I suspect there is a fault somewhere else causing this issue. Would suggest he checks everyother thing to be sure before replacing the console.

Felicity001:
A friend is currently been frustrated with his W203 C180.

EC light keeps coming on, refused to go when manually reset except a scan tool is plugged to reset the system. No error from scan tool.

And when ever this light turns red the AC compressor shuts down and ac won't cool until a scanner is used to clear it b4 the light goes off.

Anyone with similar experience should kindly assist.

See image within

What scantool was used? A fault in the AC system or the charging system might cause the AC system being shut down in order to conserve battery power. Referred to as "consumer shut off" in the E-class w211.
Scan other modules esp the rear SAM to see.
The AC system might be ok.

shoppyanno:
Please what is CANBUS?

I scanned my car and it brought out error codes related to CANBUS

what car is this?
and can you provide the specific error codes you got and from what modules?

MedicH:
Hi

So on Friday my timing belt cut and vehicle stalled instantly. The timing belt was changed when I replaced crankshaft oil seals and the mech showed me the one the car came with has wounds and might cut any moment. I agreed that it should be replaced. The one they got however did not last upto a month.

After the timing belt was replaced yesterday, I drove the car today and scanned it to see codes p0018 and p0302. These codes are listed as pending codes. I have cleared it and it still appeared as pending code. I have p0031 as confirmed code, I have checked the position of the heated o2 sensor but it is rusty so I need panel beater to look at it.

My concerns are why are the p0018 and p0302 codes registering as pending on the scanner and what should I do about it.

Car is lexus es 300 gotten toks in 2019 with 264,000 miles on it. It's generally problem free and is serviced with mobil regularly.

hello!!! have you been able to get this resolved?
would appreciate an update on the eventual fix.

TRYGO:
It's a known fact that some modern Toyota vehicles, with Toyota's VVTi cam gears (or phasers, according to Ford motors), have been known to make such rattling noises, on start-up anytime the engine is cold.

This problem, has been diagnosed mistakenly in some climes, to mean, a bad engine, that needs urgent replacement.

Some have also diagnosed such noise on start-up, to mean, that the oil pump or connecting/crankshaft bearing caps and/or crank journals are failing.

With the cost of goods and services increasing daily, motorists would be happy, to get an alternative to engine replacement, if such situations presents itself.

Some symptoms of this problem?
1. Well, on start-up, when the engine is cold, a rattling noise comes from the top cylinder area of the engine.
If you're not careful, would mistaken this noise for engine knock.

2. No matter how you keep changing engine oil viscosities, thinking, a more viscous oil would make any change.

3. The noise gradually increases, and could lead to engine damage(siezure), and engine replacement.

So how do you fix this?
1. The ultimate fix to this is to order a BRAND NEW CAMSHAFT VVTi gears or phasers for the intake and exhaust.
Ensure the part number on the gears matches that recommended by Toyota.

2. To be continued

currently got this issue with a highlander under my care.
my question is, isn't possible to get a used one considering cost of the part?
also can this brand new part be sourced in Nigeria?

Antihelminth:


Wow cool ...the electricals are complex .I think you should do both .most cars these days you can't do anything on them without scanning them .
I'm also learning the diagnosis aspect of the job .
Weldone bro .

yeah trying to work out something. hoping to connect with a BMW/VW TECH we can work together and i can learn from. but to a large extent their systems are very similar.

dante4845:
Hi everyone.. nice to be here, i drive an accord cl7 (manual tranny) but wish to upgrade to a bmw.. there is this e46 325ti (pic is attached) bm direct toks deal i saw for 1.3m, i test drove it and the problems i found was it didn't accelerate well and when i put it on D and remove my leg frm the brake, the car will be jerky until i press d gas pedal wch actually don't respond well untill i have accelerated far enough.. when in neutral, the engine will be jerky. Aside these issues, the car is very clean.

1) what could be the issue?
2) can it easily be solved?
3) how much is the 2.5l m54 engine?
4) can i swap the 2.5l to a 3.0l in the future if i choose to?

you should start with a thorough full system scan. kindly get a tech with a capable scan tool. scan all modules available on the vehicle. and carefully analyse based on error codes stored. ensure you save or atleast snap all the codes read.
Assuming there is no engine damage, na to just find better mechanic wey fit diagnose the issue.

Antihelminth:


In setting the top cylinder timing ..there is a hole on the chain sprocket .it's a twin cam engine so each of the sprocket has one hole .

Those holes should be facing up at an angle of 90° holding it at that position is usually a problem since during setting there's a 16" bolt that needs to be tight after setting .BMW recommends we use a new one.becauee when the car is in motion it might lose

So on the fly wheel there's a hole .that we put an Allen key there .someone held it in place making sure it does not move .

Then on the cam shaft there's a four corner edge that needs to face up too 90° as well ..we used 22 spanner to hold it in place ..

Then .making sure those two holes on the sprocket alighn well..we put a wire .like forming a rectangle without the lenght .into those holes and then those 16 bolts were tight ...

The block engine timing is the usual .1and 4 up ..2 and 3 down .

In the YouTube video we watched he internet guy used a tool we can't get in Nigeria soooo we improvised .

I'm not sure youll get it .unless you've had small experience on something like that

keenly following your thread bro. very nice one. i currently work more on Mercedes Benz too. though I do more work on diagnosis and electrical system.

mokset123:
My honda accord 2006 (discussion continue) v6 is having an average of 11mpg for city driving as against 18mpg which is manufacturers actual rating for City driving for my car.

Meaning with 48 litres, I am covering about 240km, I feel this is very poor even though I use my chilled ac intermittently.

History of the car,
1. My check light isn't on and I have a cheap scan tool

2. I avoided hard acceleration and braking, infact I stuck to under 60km/h while driving

3. My tires are 215/55R17 and I gauge them to 40 psi

Make una help me, abi na to sell the car

Let me add my 2 cents. when dealing with fuel consumption take note of the following;
1. Age of the engine. if the engine is old and has gathered alot of mileage, you cannot get the manufacturer stated MPG. High milege engine will have suffered alot of wear & tear. Low cylinder compression will require more fuel to produce the power you need.
2. Quality of fuel available here in Nigeria is very low compared to what's obtainable abroad.
3. Current faults on the engine for example torn intake hoses, vacuum leaks, valve train issues etc can also cause higher fuel consumption.
4. is your MAF/MAP sensor still good? this will greatly affect your fuel consumption. because the ECU uses this signal in addition to other sensors (e.g. engine coolant tempearature etc) to determine how much fuel to spray into the cylinder.
5. O2 sensors. signal from the sensor is used by the ECU to control fuel injection.
6. Fouled/worn spark plugs can also cause weak ignition spark which eventually engine performance.
7. Fuel pump ; if you use a fuel pump with higher pressure than what is recommended or if your fuel pump is weak, it might cause higher fuel consumption.

so OP, do a careful inspection and analysis of your engine. fix all the problems you can find. no matter how little.
begin with scanning the ECU, this should give you pointers on where to begin from.

oriste:
Good morning I use Honda pilot 2009 but I noticed something when my car is on idle it's rmph goes to 3500 and when engaged it's starts jerking and check engine light comes up on start blinking and would not move well

THE BLINKING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT INDICATES YOU HAVE MISFIRE. ONE OR MORE OF YOUR CYLINDERS IS NOT CONTRIBUTING AS IT SHOULD.
FOR A START CHECK YOUR PLUGS, FUEL INJECTOR AND ALSO SCAN INCASE THERE ARE OTHER KNOWN FAULTS STORED IN THE ECU.

MedicH:
Hi

So on Friday my timing belt cut and vehicle stalled instantly. The timing belt was changed when I replaced crankshaft oil seals and the mech showed me the one the car came with has wounds and might cut any moment. I agreed that it should be replaced. The one they got however did not last upto a month.

After the timing belt was replaced yesterday, I drove the car today and scanned it to see codes p0018 and p0302. These codes are listed as pending codes. I have cleared it and it still appeared as pending code. I have p0031 as confirmed code, I have checked the position of the heated o2 sensor but it is rusty so I need panel beater to look at it.

My concerns are why are the p0018 and p0302 codes registering as pending on the scanner and what should I do about it.

Car is lexus es 300 gotten toks in 2019 with 264,000 miles on it. It's generally problem free and is serviced with mobil regularly.

Asides the misfire on cylinder 2. Do you have any other drivability concerns?
The P0018 points the a possible problem with the timing.
Now question is was it caused by the belt that and oil seal that was replaced?
I will suggest you do the following first.
Try see if you can resolve the misfire.
Check the ignition coil, spark plug and injector.
Try see if you can rule out the misfire being caused by the CAM/CRANK code.
We can take it from there.
BUT ENSURE YOU DO NOT START THROWING PARTS AT THE CAR.

TheOldGods:
150k

The gods are definitely not smiling

Smithkline200:
How come this car is 160M.

I guess you meant something else cos my friend got this exact model for less than 36M recently.

This isn’t even a bullet proof.

Did you even bother checking the pictures?

Contact details pls

ThrottleHolic:


This one na literature oh On a more serious note, it isn't that bad. However, if you have very sensitive ears and have become used to quieter cold starts, it might need getting used to, mentally.

Na true sha

ThrottleHolic:


You've decatted and things are still the same in your ears on cold starts?

You're a lucky man!

No o. There is definitely a difference but "ears cursing on cold starts" na that one dey shock me. Isn't that bad tho

Timagex:


Nothing weh eye no go see for nairaland.

Eye don tire na leg dey see the rest how baba

ThrottleHolic:


Fewer vehicles are better.

Make certain you don't buy an abused one, however.

To avoid stories that torsh the leg listen to this.
Plenty Corolla dey outside there, and most of them are terribly abused.
If you have extra cash pls take a trusted technician to help you inspect before you pay.

naphunlimited:
Okay but when this issue happens and I tune off the engine. If l step on the gas pedal like 5 times then. Turn on the engine the problem goes away. But could this be a sensor issue or throttle cable issue?

Its seems like your throttle cable occasionally gets stuck due to age. And this causes the self throttling.

In addition. @OP get a competent technician and start with the basics.
When it fails what is missing?
An engine needs Air, Fuel, ignition Spark and correct timing to run correctly.
Find what is missing.
While cranking is the fuel delivery up to spec? Is the fuel pump supplying adequate fuel at rignt pressure and volume?
How about the spark plugs? Are they firing when you crank the engine?
Check your fuses and relays. Notice any relay that is unusually hot? Swap it out for another and see.

ThrottleHolic:


While it is possible that some auto related challenges may not present themselves on a scan tool, I strongly suspect the scanner used for your vehicle may not have the abilty to read the troubled part of the vehicle system.

Visit another workshop, a standard one that is and get a rescan.

Something should pop up.

Do not attempt trial and error here. You may change I billion and one things and still get no solution.

In the rare event that nothing still shows up, the garage should be able to assist, especially since the issue woud likely present itself firsthand.

Diagnosing some auto challenges remotely could be a true challenge.

Goodluck!

Very very true

Your ECU is probably responding based on signals from a sensor e.g. MAP/MAF sensor, Throttle pedal or throttle sensor.
A failing sensor could be the cause.
Try this. To rule out turbulent air causing this, remove your air filter and perform a test drive.
And lets see the.

seanfer:


Story of my life.

Oya share with us na. Wetin dey happen gan gan?

ThrottleHolic:


Except that on truly cold starts, the ears would silently curse you

Really? Never noticed tho...