Dacool1's Posts
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BigDawsNet:Substandard/fake products and battery abuse |
oloyemeji:Never mix old and new lead acid batteries. The old ones would wear the new ones out in no time. Also make sure your batteries are fully charged. It's possible the batteries do not float. Can you quickly list the appliances you use after dark and their wattage alongside the time those appliances run |
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oloyemeji:Whosoever paired a 3.5kva inverter to just 2 tubular batteries needs to be flogged except he has given you strict instructions not to power some appliances after dark. Even if you increase your batteries to 4, you shouldn't draw past 80amps in total and that's about 800 to 900 watts anything more than that you are stressing your batteries. Only lifepo4 batteries can handle those abuses. Just get a small lithium pack instead and upgrade gradually. |
oloyemeji:Just dispose those old batteries, you have damaged them. Buy 4 new batteries and upgrade your solar panels Finally and most importantly, carry out an energy audit and replace all old appliances in your home with more efficient ones. Never draw more than 200watts per tubular battery after sundown. |
Buchika:Nothing is wrong with running a freezer on a 12v system. Just have sufficient battery bank. People need to stop condemning 12v systems abeg. They are okay for loads up to 2kw, just that I would suggest a 24v system if you would be continuously drawing more than 1kw energy. A 24v system with just two 220ah tubular batteries is no better than a 12v system with same battery bank. For a regular freezer or inverter freezer a 1kw 12v system with surge capacity of 2kw is more than OK. Just turn on the freezer first before other appliances. I just laugh when I see a 3.5kva inverter connected to two 220ah tubular batteries. Your batteries would die in 3 months if you fully utilize the inverter. |
easyyoke:6mm will suffice |
Cmeo:In your mind now devaluation of the currency is the right way, what happened to banning the importation of those said goods, they did with male wears, frozen foods and rice. Stop defending nonsense |
mahkanjuh:Have you purchased anything lately? |
Pablo10:Get a 12v 100ah lithium battery, a small inverter say 1kva, solar panels, charge controllers, cables and others |
When we are ready we would take to the streets |
Pablo10:Budget minimum of 800k |
ObalendeCMS:But when government wants to pay or remove subsidy they quote exchange rate abi. Continue |
JoeSef0:Well, I don't think there's anything wrong with the battery, you need to be sure of the self consumption of the inverter I guess it's almost 50 watts. Note that Lead Acid batteries are fully charged at 12.6v, the 13.2 is just surface charge that disappears in seconds/minutes once charger is unpluged. You can try charging with an external charger and charge at 14.5v let's see if there's a change |
JoeSef0:Can you state the voltages at 5bars and 3 bars respectively. |
JoeSef0:It's your battery or cable. The battery may not be fully charged. Make sure the battery is fully charged then reduce the cable length and increase the cable Guage. I doubt anything is wrong with your inverter. You'd be surprised it's hitting LVD due to the in ability of your battery to provide the surge needed to start up the compressor. You can solve this problem by adding one more battery to the set up and increasing the cable size. I won't advice you to power your freezer with just one battery. You'd be exceeding the recommended discharge current since you will be powering other things/appliances too. Your battery would die in less than 2 years. Forget that 105watts written on that freezer the apperent power is different which increases energy losses so in real life situation your freezer is using up more than that 105watts |
JoeSef0:Give info abt the battery. I can bet it's hitting LVD, make sure the batteries are fully charged. |
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ojesymsym:Well, the batteries won't really be charged above 3.65, the voltage difference is what helps charge the batteries,the bms often shuts charging when batteries are full. Thats why I said the batteries are considered fully charged at 13.6v Let our ogas in the house contribute. My knowledge is kinda limited in some areas. |
Penuelseun:12.0v is 20% Dod for li-ion 3s configuration. Lfp is fully charge at 13.6v(when the charger is disconnected), 14.4v is the voltage when the battery is still being CHARGED, same thing applies to Lead acid batteries (flooded) charged at 14.2v to 14.6v depending on temperature and while at rest, it's fully charged at 12.7v. On a final note, depending on your source of information and brand of LFP I'll stick with 12.8v for 80% DOD (to avoid over discharging) |
Jefferyzz:Yes lithium ion do have higher nominal voltage but the voltage sag is more noticeable on lithium ion than lfp. Please check my modified post |
isangjohnson:Yes, lfp handles load better than lithium ion because lfp has a more stable voltage during its discharge. Lithium ion can also be discharged to 80% but voltage will be much lower and this affects inverters performance. For comparison, LFP fully charged at13.6v and 12.9v at 80% Dod while lithium ion 12.6v at fully charged and 12.0v at about 20% DOD. Note the voltage difference. Most times, inverters will hit LVD on some load while using lithium ion despite having a lot of juice but it rarely happens when you make use of LFP (especially when your battery bank is not large). Though you can correct this by changing the configuration of the lithium ion by changing from 3s to 4s but this usually cause a problem with getting the voltage to work with your inverter especially 12v systems. |
isangjohnson:It's obviously not upto 1.4kwh and I'm almost sure it's not lfp. It's most likely made from used lithium ion batteries. For lithium ion Battery, the capacity is about 120amps. Drawing over 40amps from that will make the voltage sag so much that it will trigger LVD. |
swagifted:In real life usage, assuming both are subject to same loads, I think those GRADE C will outperform the GRADE A, depending on the Grade of the GRADE C cells. I might be wrong though |
swagifted:Grade C |
But seun is yourba now. I want to check something |
oloet:Transformer based |
swagifted:I doubt the problem is from your inverter. Upgrade the size of the cable connecting the inverter to the batteries. Also shorten the length of the cable connecting the batteries to the inverter. Finally, make sure your batteries can adequately provide the surge current needed to start the fridge without dropping voltage to a very low one. I have run a chest freezer of 150watts with a 1kw sachet inverter without issues. I have also run a 90watts fridge on a 500watts inverter before. The only downside to using these sachet inverters is how poorly they handle electrical surge. My TB inverter has been gathering dust for long. Those things are power guzzlers. Except you have deep pockets stick with sachet inverters. Most people buy inverters they will never fully utilize. |
You should have flogged the evil spirit out of him since he was a kid. |
ewizard1:Actually that's for 14 hours. Is it too little or too much |
jikaseo:Well, that might help improve your performance. Your freezer and other appliances should only be used during the day, you will have to reduce your "sun-down" loads to a max of 200w. If you are lucky not to have damaged your batteries your inverter should go off around 1 - 2am. In order to continuously power the load of over 600watts after sunlight till the next sun light you need a minimum of 10 220ah batteries. If you buy less than that be ready to replace your batteries in about 12 to 18 months. So my advice, power the heavy loads during the day and manage your load once it's sundown. Your current battery back up can only support a about 100w after sundown till the next sunlight. |