₦airaland Forum

montero4:
I have used my Nissan Altima 05 with 2.5L for more than a year now. But recently, I discovered this sudden loss of power on climbing hills, usually on a distance trip of about 2hrs or more. I was advised to check my catalyst for blockage,
which I did but they are both free and not clogged. And recently plug coils burn on a monthly basis to weeks and finally daily, usually on the the 3rd coil is affected. On Saturday, my elecrrican checked the wires on the 3rd plug line and connected a resistor to help reduce the current coming to the line. In less than 24hrs , I noticed my car jerking again. When I checked, the 1st plug coil was affected. He insists I change my brainbox and crankshaft sensor. Any other view to this plz?

The coil drivers on these brainbox fail such that the coils are never fully turned off even when they are not supposed to 'fire' the plugs.
The solution to this is to repair the brainbox or replace with a good one.

Also, first consider:
1. Verifying all ground connections are good ad suggested by Costee

2. Verify the capacitor across the coils power supply is ok and not having corroded contacts. The capacitor is wrapped in the wire harness.

oluwealth:
The gear selections stopped at gear 3

Sorry for my late response. If you've not resolved this, I would recommend you ensure a competent auto tech does a comprehensive diagnosis before changing the brainbox.

PS: The brainbox may be the culprit as I've heard of some such cases...

GAZZUZZ:
This will be an interesting topic that's why I moved your comment here.

Intectors operate on pulse, short and long pulses, dropping the voltage would it distort the spray pattern ? Let's discuss.

Thegiftedone more pics please.

Cc nurey, diportivo, inception, motorguru, smartchoiices, chukel, Kashif, JohnAbraham, autologic, timifakay, oluwaseunla.

Add more as you remember

I have a friend who does this to resolve "smoking exhaust" issues brought to his workshop. It works for him in most cases.
The resistor packs he uses come enclosed in an aluminum casing which serves as the heatsink for the resistor assembly. They are scavenged off some old model cars. The resistor pack is connected in series between the injectors and the ECU. All the injectors are connected in parallel (i.e. "bridged together". See the rough sketch for a 4 cylinder system attached. On the ECU side, only one of the 4 injector control lines is connected to the resistor pack.

As Inception mentioned, the injectors are PWM controlled by the ECU. Introducing the resistors will result in an RL charge time constant (dependent on the resistance of the resistor and the inductance of the injectors). This alters the duty cycle (injector ON time) of the PWM and therefore a decrease on the volume of fuel injected.

Some ECUs adopt batch firing while others (newer cars) adopt sequential firing of the injectors. The connection shown effectively converts the system to batch firing. I do not expect cars employing sequential firing to work with the above connection.

Vehicle Make: Mitsubishi
Model: Montero (2000 - 2003)
Trouble Symptom: Misfiring (missing coil/injector signal), Burnt/Damaged coils, No power (no check engine light)
Resolution:
Misfiring and burnt coils - for cases where the coils persistently get damaged, ensure there are no shorted/frayed wires in the harness. If all wiring is verified OK, replace or repair brainbox. Easiest way to replace (especially for those based in Lagos) is by buying a set of brainbox, immo box and key gotten from another car of same model. An alternative is to buy the a Tokunbo brainbox and find someone to do the immobilizer matching.
The repair option is the cheapest but should by done only by someone who savvy in the use of a hot air gun and soldering iron.

No power/ no check engine light - be sure to verify there is no Main Relay trigger signal (called main relay earth by most re-wire) before concluding the brainbox is faulty. Note that there is a direct battery voltage supply to the ECU even when ignition is turned off. This power supply should not be missing. The car's wiring diagram is a good reference.
For simple cases, replacing the relay transistor brings the ECU and car back to life. For more complex scenarios (e.g. missing 5V), which can occur when wires are accidentally bridged, simply apply your basic electronic circuit trouble shooting skills.

I'll post pictures of these ECUs when I get to the workshop.

oluwealth:
Hi Sir
Pls I need a brainbox for my Toyota Avensis 2004
My VIN is SB1BH55L80E066871

Are you sure you need a new brainbox?
You may just have an electrical fault that needs proper diagnosis.

What is the issue with your car?

Vehicle Make: Mitsubishi
Model: Space Wagon / Space Star / Carisma (1998-2003)
Trouble Symptoms: Misfiring, Loss of power, Damaged/burnt coils, No start.
Cause: Most common failure is getting burnt coils. No start may be due to water flooding or bridged wires in the car.
Resolution: If it has been determined by a competent auto tech that the ECU (brainbox) is faulty, the options available are:
1. Change engine, brainbox, and modify wiring (re-wire): this is the most expensive solution and seems to be the most common option given to the car owners by auto techs.

2. Change brainbox, immo box, and key: this is a cheaper option recommended also. The ECU, immo box and key set for you model may not be readily available but patience and diligent search has paid of for some.

3. Buy a replacement brainbox with same part number and match ECU to car: this was shied away from because the immobilizers of these cars could not be synced with a used ECU from another car. Syncing of these model years is actually possible.

4. Repair the defective brainbox: within the brainbox, there are transistor drivers for the coils. These drivers get shorted when the coil goes bad for any reason. Once shorted, replacement of the initially bad coil is of no use as the faulty drivers will burn/damage the new coils. A competent electronics tech with some auto wiring knowledge can identify and replace these drivers in the brainbox. After the driver replacement, simply plug in your brainbox and enjoy...no immo syncing is required for this option.

NOTE: For options 2-4 above, ensure the defective coils are replaced with good ones, else, they will damage the repaired or replacement brainbox.

Here are some pictures of these class of ECUs

Let me start with a background story:
Auto diagnosis and repair became my new found hobby in 2015/16 (I now do it as a freelance job). Back then, there was this 2000/01 Mitsubishi Space Wagon rotting away in one corner of a friends auto shop. I later learnt the ECU (brainbox) was the problem with the car. While a replacement brainbox cost 25k - 30k, the car owner was given only one option of getting his car back on the road which would gulp over 100k (money he couldn't raise).
The challenge with this fix is that most auto techs recommend a complete engine change (or at least change of top cylinder), replacement with a new ECU and modification of the existing car wiring to fit the new ECU and Engine.

Some folks are still facing this challenge, so my next post will be on this vehicle.

Properoo:
This is the type of discussion I have been waiting for on NL for a long time

OK. Stayed tuned. Feel free to make your own contribution or post any car electronics challenge you may have.

This thread is dedicated to faults/problems of engine control module (ECU), popularly called brainbox, and other electronic controllers/modules present in cars.

Symptoms of these faulty modules and resolutions (repair possibilities and/or replacement) will be discussed.

Feel free to post your car electronics related problems here.

Contributions from our respected car gurus on NL are very welcome.

IAT sensors marked with blue and MAF sensor marked with red.

amba2017:
[s][/s] Prado 2017 ecu had internal flashing. I have replaced it but I want to know if there are companies that repair ecu here in the country or companies that buy faulty ones.

Call 07053488163

You seem to be on top of this issue. Have you fully resolved it?

Inception:
Yes sir.

But it was first replaced with a wrong one from a 2011 kia sportage (same outward looking transmission, but different gear and final drive ratios)

Clunking started immediately car was driven. But the nail on the coffin was that TCU adaptation was reset to this transmission . It first drove very smooth for about 30km and of course it went back to limp mode again.

Transmission was later replaced with the correct one (after serious research) and TCU reset, But this time only 1-2 was smooth with serious flares at other shift points at WOT. This persisted after transmission was exchanged with at least 4 other gearboxes of same spec.

If you get someone to flash your ECU, ensure they have very good internet to avoid damage to the unit.
In some of these cases, it is a hardware fault and re-flashing may not resolve it. Further investigation will need to be done to verify this.

Post ECU part number. I may be able to help you.

AutoElectNG:
I am currently working on this vehicle as we speak!

I have zeroed in on the problem, an incorrectly installed aftermarket radio and a shoddy headlight assembly and indicator repair

Currently trying to resolve the mess that was created here.

It resulted in a current draw of over 100 milliamps when the car is turned off!

With the headlight assembly and indicator wiring fixed, it reduced to 35 milliamps.

With the aftermarket radio disconnected, it reduced to less than 10 milliamps.

Good job! I like how you pay attention to detail and specifics as you troubleshoot.
Hope OP was happy with your work.

pjosh1:
I use a Lexus es 330 and I have changed the battery twice in a week, at first I thought the battery I bought was fake not until I bought the second battery and I still have the same problem. Whenever I park and off the engine the car refuses to start unless I start the engine with another battery then put in back mine. I don't think it's the alternator because sometimes after using another battery to start the car I can still drive it out, park and come back home without giving me problem and sometimes it just won't start​ after I park. I also noticed when I'm driving at night if I put on the headlight my dashboard light will go off, the AC will go off and the DVD system and sometimes even without putting on the headlight​ the AC and DVD goes off.
I'm afraid of calling a rewire to come check it because they sometimes just create extra problems.
I just bought the car not up to a month

The problem is most likely parasitic drain and/or faulty alternator.
Go to a competent auto tech to identify cause of current drain.
If you are a DIY person, google 'parasitic drain' and watch some youtube videos to get a hang of how to troubleshoot yourself.
Same applies for troubleshooting if your alternator is charging properly...wiring diagram may be needed for this diagnosis.

Wish you quick resolution of this issue.

captainking:
oga..go online and buy those portable scanners.. It's on Jumia and konga...note..dont change that engine till you do proper diagnosis..

Good advice

adejide2:
my Mitsubishi gallant station wagon 1998 [b]throttled to pick on packing [/b]but throttle between 1and 2 on loading. Just bought new throttle sensor and fixed by rewire. Rewire found out that one of the wires of the sensor connector has been detached. Could this be cause of the car problem not being able to throttle on loading or is there other things affecting the car. Please my gurus help. Thanks.

1. explain the bolded
2. get competent auto tech to fix detached wire (using manufacturer wiring diagram)
3. did you scan the car? what are the fault codes?

HazzanTazzan:
Ibo guy in Ladipo has been sending series of brainbox but they won't work with my car...

The only correct one sent (t1 black) worked but only supplied to 2 coils...

Can anyone get me a working t1 brainbox for 2003 Nissan Altima ?

Abeg o
My whatsapp link is below

OP, have you resolved this issue?

onilanre:
My Toyota Camry 2007 vehicle starts up fine, engine idles regularly, in neutral the engine can be revved up with no problem. When car is put into drive or reverse, the engine sputters and then seizes up and dies. Check engine light comes on after car engine dies. My car mileage is 118500k, automatic transmission.

Have you done a scan to know the codes? They could make resolving the issue so much easier.

GAZZUZZ:
scan vehicle, but ultimately it looks like a slipping transmission.

A Transmission replacement might be unavoidable .

As indicated by GAZZUZZ, your transmission is suspect but in some Toyota cars (not sure if your model/year is inclusive) changing to an updated ECU could fix your problem.

Checking if it is the ECU first will be a cheaper option before changing your transmission....After scanning to verify the codes!