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A water pump is one of the many components on your car that you don’t think about until it stops working. Replacing the water pump can be a complicated process; don’t wanna do it yourself without some mechanical expertise.

STEP ONE – GET A NEW PUMP

Know the year and model number of the vehicle as well as the engine size when you look for your new water pump. You may often find them in local auto parts stores as well as online.

STEP TWO – PREPARE THE CAR

Let the engine to cool completely and disconnect the battery. Put a drain pan under the engine and drain the entire cooling unit.

STEP THREE – TAKE OUT BELTS, HOSES, AND THE PUMP

To replace the water pump, you’ll need to remove the drive belts and perhaps the engine pulley. Remove any parts that block your access to the water pump (there may be several) and detach any hoses from the pump. Unbolt and remove the pump.
http://www.automobileglobe.com/how-to-replace-water-pump-in-your-car/

There are two kinds of timing in an engine: cam timing and the ignition timing. Cam timing is what determines when the valves are opened and closed with respect to the position of the pistons in their bores. It can however not be adjusted on a stock engine. It is set when the engine is manufactured, aligning them to manufacturer’s specs. Cam timing is not connected with or affected spinning the distributor.

What distributors time is spark or ignition. At idle, your engine is spinning relatively slowly, say 1000 revolutions per minute (rpm), so very little fuel and air are being taken into the cylinders. This small amount of combustible mixture burns very fast. For maximum efficiency, the spark needs to start when the piston is very near top dead center. If the spark comes too advanced, the pressure from the ignited mixture will hit the piston while it is yet coming up the cylinder and be wasted trying to shove the piston down before it reaches the top of its journey. If the timing is set too late, the pressure from the ignited mixture will dissipate as the flame front chases the piston down the cylinder bore. There is how you properly adjust your engine (ignition) timing.
http://www.automobileglobe.com/how-to-adjust-car-engine-timing/

Brake pad replacement is one of the most vital aspects of motor vehicle maintenance and is a major contribution toward safe driving. Although many drivers choose to take their cars to a garage or mechanic center for brake-pad replacement, it is possible to do the job yourself. This should be a relatively simple task for any persons with an intermediate level of mechanical knowledge.
Step 1 – Remove the Wheels
Park your car on a flat, even surface and make sure that the parking brake is completely engaged. Place the wooden blocks behind the rear tires to keep the vehicle in position when it is jacked. Loosen the wheel bolts but do not remove them completely.
Then, locate the jacking points on each sides of the car and use the trolley jack or portable car jack to lift the front end of the car off of the ground. Place the axle stands in place and lower your vehicle onto them. The wheel bolts can now be fully loosened, and you should now bring out the wheels.
Step 2 – Compress the Brake Caliper
You might want to concentrate on changing one side at a time because if you take both calipers off, it’s possible you could lose the piston out of one of them when compressing the other. You may also turn the car’s steering wheel toward the side you’re working on. Doing so will give more space and therefore better access to the calipers and brake pads.
When you’re set, take the C-clamp and compress the piston of the caliper until it is forced into the brake caliper housing unit. This allows for the caliper assembly to be removed, and it also makes for the additional space required to mount the new brake pads. If your brake calipers need repairs, you should fix them before you continue.
The mounting bolts of the caliper can be unbolted with the use of a ratchet and an appropriate-sized socket, and the caliper should easily come away from the rotor. Occasionally, special keys in hexagonal, torx, or star shapes are needed to do this. Take care not to bend or break the brake hose.
Step 3 – Remove and Inspect the Pads
http://www.automobileglobe.com/how-to-replace-your-brake-pad-in-6-easy-steps/

A fuel filter is found in-between your car’s fuel pump and fuel injectors. Essentially it helps screen out any debris in the gasoline that your fuel pump may be sending toward the engine. By acting as a barrier and removing this debris, the fuel filter protects your fuel injectors, your engine health, and your car’s overall performance.
Since you won’t always be checking directly at your fuel filter, knowing the signs of a dirty filter can help you figure out the best way to fix your car issues. Replacement of the fuel filter is an easy job, but you should first be sure that whatever trouble you’re experience is indeed related to a clogging in your filter.
1. HESITATING ENGINE
If your engine keeps hesitating when you floor the gas, you probably have a dirty fuel filter has become clogged. A clog means the flow of gas to the engine is limited and this abnormal combustion completely reduces the car’s power and responsiveness. If the car or truck doesn’t respond when you accelerate or stumbles as it increases in speed, it could also be a symptom of a dirty fuel filter.
2. STALLING
Your engine requires a constant supply of fuel if it’s going to operate properly and efficiently. A fuel filter that has become dirty will cut the flow of gas to the engine, so the vehicle supply is anything but constant. If the flow is excessively limited, the car engine will stall. The more often this happens, the more likely it is that your car has a dirty fuel filter that needs to be replaced.
3. NOT STARTING,
Since your engine needs a mixture of gas and air in order to fire up, it won’t start at all if no gas is issuing through. Failure to start is a definite sign of a dirty fuel filter or one that is utterly clogged. It needs to be replaced before the vehicle will start properly.
Similarly, your car not starting at all can also be related to a dead battery or a bad igniton. If you have checked and it isn’t this, it’s definitely time to consider the fuel filter may be the cause.
4. HARD STARTING
http://www.automobileglobe.com/what-are-signs-of-adirty-fuel-filter/

There is not a car part that doesn’t decline naturally through periods of use. As such, even tie rod ends can develop issues. Knowing the indicators of when this part is on its way out means that you can handle the problem early before it becomes out of hand, or before its failure causes damage to other components. Below are signs to give u an early heads up.
1. Alignment
There are many causes why your front end could be out of alignment. But, if there’s a persistent problem maintaining a good alignment on the front wheels, the source could really be a bad tie rod ends. The tie rods are being adjusted during an alignment, so if they’re not in good order this will have an impact and the vehicle won’t be able to preserve its proper alignment.
2. Tire Wear
http://www.automobileglobe.com/what-are-signs-of-faulty-tie-rod-ends/

Noted!!!

TOOLS REQUIRED
FLUID: Consult your cars owner’s manual to know how many quarts, and the specific type you require, or speak to a representative at the auto parts store.
FILTER: Check to be sure you get the correct size and quality.
TORQUE WRENCH: If you don’t have one, don’t worry. A normal socket wrench set will archive the aim.
LARGE PAN TO CATCH THE FLUID: Be sure to get one that is larger than the pan (casing) as it may leak out from all sides.
STEPS TO FOLLOW
PUT YOUR CAR ON RAMPS
http://www.automobileglobe.com/how-to-change-transmission-fluid-step-by-step/

Knowing what issues your car has may seem like an impossible task, mostly to the untrained eyes and ears of the average driver. It may be beneficial to think of your car’s inner workings as similar to that of the human body. For example, if you have chest pain that could signal any number of health issues, but if the chest pain happens in addition to difficulty breathing, then it is much more likely that asthma (or maybe something very similar) is the cause. Automotive issues are diagnosed in a similar manner. Problems that involve mechanical systems typically show distinct sensations and sounds that act as signs that a certain process isn’t working the way it was intended to. As soon as you notice that something seems that something has gone south with your vehicle’s functionality, it is time to assess the issue and look for a way to fix it.
http://www.automobileglobe.com/10-most-common-transmission-issues/

SURE! EXPECT THAT SOON

In a Summary, a torque converter is a fluid coupling that sends torque from the engine to the transmission. It is planted between the engine and transmission, bolted directly to a ‘flex plate’ that is spun by the crankshaft.
Internal combustion engines generates power by burning fuel that forces the pistons to turn the crankshaft located at the bottom of the engine. This rotational force is transferred to the transmission by the fluid pressure inside the torque converter.
Inside of the torque converter cover is a series of propeller-like blades known as the pump. This assembly turns in sync with the engine crankshaft, forcing transmission fluid onto another blade assembly that is called the impeller. This second set of blades is attached to the transmission input shaft. The amount of hydraulic pressure that it creates inside the transmission dictates the gear and ultimately, the speed of the car.
The impeller’s speed is modulated by the engine side of this hydrodynamic circuit ( speed of the pump blades). When the vehicle is stationary, or the driver matches the brakes, the impeller will slow considerably, while the pump continues to spin. This allows the torque converter to operate like the clutch in a manual transmission – it allows the engine to continue running while the vehicle is at a complete stop.
immediately the transmission fluid has been hurled onto the impeller blades, it has to return to the pump in order to maintain the cycle going. Since the fluid is now flowing in a different direction than the pump, it has
http://www.automobileglobe.com/what-does-a-torque-converter-do/

Hey Mayor, please bring them up as other folks might be needing it,thanks.

The anti-lock braking system on a vehicle comes as an additional safety feature available on many modern vehicles. The ABS system is made to help prevent wheels from locking during heavy braking situations, keeping the car from skidding or hydroplaning. The ABS system is summed up of the ABS module, and the ABS sensors at each wheel. The sensors detect wheel speed, and will send a signal to the ABS module to rapidly pump the brakes when it is detected that the vehicle is skidding or has lost traction.
When the ABS system is not working then loss of traction, skidding, and hydroplaning are very more likely to occur under heavy braking situations. The ABS system on most cars is usually designed to give you plenty of warning signs when there is any issue with the system. Being aware of these warning signs, and handling the problem as soon as they come will help ensure that your ABS system and vehicle remains functioning for maximum safety. Below are some of the signs of failing.
1. UNRESPONSIVE BRAKE PEDAL
In most cases, depending on the model of vehicle, when the ABS module fails, the brake pedal may get unresponsive. This is an obvious problem, as an unresponsive brake pedal will not halt a vehicle, or will not be able to do so in an adequately safe pattern. In most cases, this will happen slowly, over time. Usually the brake pedal will become increasingly hard to press until it is no longer responsive.
2. BRAKE PADS REQUIRE MORE EFFORT TO PUSH
When all parts of the braking system are working properly, the pedal should need very little effort. It should be very easy to press down on, and once pressed should have an immediately noticeable effect in slowing the vehicle down. Thus if you start to notice that over time the pedal needs increased effort in order to achieve the same amount of braking force, then that could be a sign of a possible issue with the ABS module.
3. THE ABS LIGHT IS ON
http://www.automobileglobe.com/how-to-know-signs-of-a-bad-or-failing-abs-control-module/

odern automobile ingenuity has made the crankshaft position sensor a very important part of the car’s engine. This tiny device is instrumental to monitoring the engine’s multiple components via the car’s computerized engine management system. The sensor checks the speed of crankshaft rotation, monitors the engine valves in relation to the pistons, and observes the overall engine function.
The crankshaft position sensor is usually mounted on the crankshaft close to the main pulley. It sends on information, and as with any other parts of the engine, when things begin going bad it requires immediate care ignoring the signs of a bad crankshaft position sensor will lead to rapid wear and tear of the different parts of the engine and will quickly result in engine wear-out. Gladly, warning signs of a bad crankshaft position sensor are easy to detect. Read through below the following warning signs.
THE BLINKING OF “CHECK ENGINE” LIGHT
The simplest and most obvious indication of a failing crankshaft position sensor is the blinking “check engine” light in a car. Luckily, this light is designed to come on well in advance, giving time to take care of the problem before the car is left completely grounded and you stranded. Once you notice the light, be sure to contact your Auto mechanic for a look-over or take your car in for servicing.
IGNITION MALFUNCTION
When the crankshaft position sensor starts to fail, the signal it sends to the vehicle’s computer begins to weaken. If not given attention, the signal will switch off completely. This now causes the car’s spark plugs to die out, thus killing the engine. If you are having difficulty starting your car, it could signal a bad crankshaft position sensor.
STALLING AND BACKFIRING
Another symptom of a sensor malfunction is the constant stalling and backfiring of the engine. In such situation, the engine is bound to be cutting off from time to time, stalling as you drive for a few seconds. Unlike ignition malfunction, the car may start, even run for a sometime, only to shut down somewhere along the way. It goes the same for engine backfiring. If you keep ignoring this warning signs though, the engine may get exhausted and shut down eventually.
http://www.automobileglobe.com/what-are-warning-signs-of-a-bad-crankshaft-position-sensor/

cool

There are many factors that cause water to enter into the engine oil, including leaking intake manifold gaskets, cracked engine castings and a blown head gasket. One main reason, the formation of water as a petroleum byproduct, is part of normal engine operation
Even in completely sealed engines, water enters and forms condensation within the engine. For every gallon of petrol burned, a little more than a gallon of water vapor is formed as a byproduct. During the process of longer trips, the engine reaches its ideal operating temperature, and the heat makes any condensed water to evaporate. If the car travels only short trips, abnormal water accumulation can be caused because the engine does not get to a temperature that is sufficient to burn off the excess water.
If water is discovered to be mixing with the oil in a V-style engine that has intake manifolds sealed to the block, then the intake manifold water jacket gasket may be leaking into the inside of the engine. Such leaks occur happen when bacteria builds up in the antifreeze or coolant solution. This bacterium eventually eats through engine parts
http://www.automobileglobe.com/causes-of-water-mixing-with-engine-oil/

There are many ways to conduct an airbag check. Being sure your airbag is working properly can help reassure you and your passengers feel safe. So, confirm if your airbag system is operating correctly.
Airbag Diagnostic Tests
Most vehicles today can do an airbag diagnostic test. The test checks to confirm if all the sensors and circuits of the airbag are functioning. If the system detects any issues, it gives you a signal through the airbag indicator by flashing the light many times, giving you the specific problem the test has detected. These flashes are codes, with its own meaning.
Airbag Diagnostic Codes
the airbag codes are usually double digit numbers. To read the codes, you have to count the number of times the light flashes, wait for the pause and count the flashes again. For example, two flashes, a pause and four flashes mean that your airbag system’s problem is a code 24.
Code 12 shows your battery voltage is low, while 13 indicates that the airbag circuit is shorted or grounded. Code14 indicates the short or ground is on the primary crash sensor circuit. You need to check if the airbag is mounted normally to your car if you read code 21. Code 22 shows the safing sensor output is shorted to battery voltage, while 23 means the safing sensor input feed or return circuit is open. Co
http://www.automobileglobe.com/how-to-do-airbag-diagnostic-test/

Bad or loose tie rod ends should always be replaced soon as signs is given. However new tie rod ends won’t necessarily end a tire wear problem unless the tie rods are properly adjusted after the new parts have been installed.
Changing the tie rod end, tie rods or a steering rack will also change the distance between the steering arms, which changes the toe too. So after the parts have been installed, some type of alignment equipment should be used to measure toe. Then and only then can the tie rods be adjusted to set toe within the vehicle producers specifications (be sure to use the specifications listed in an alignment reference manual or service manual, never ever “rule of thumb” settings, because every vehicle comes unique).
Some mechanic pattern when replacing tie rod ends is to count the number of turns it takes to unscrew a tie rod end, then to use same number of turns when screwing it back on. This only works if the same tie rod end is being reinstalled because the length of the tie rod end and threading may not be same on a new part. What’s more, there is no way to know if the original alignment setting was correct or not. The reason why toe should always be

Bad fuel mix – A bad fuel mix can happen in several ways below are some listed:
Your engine is out of fuel, so the engine takes much air but no fuel.
Your air intake might be clogged, so there is sufficient fuel but not enough air.
The fuel system might be giving too much or too little fuel to the mix with, meaning that combustion does not happen properly.
There might be some dirt in the fuel (i.e water in your gas tank) that prevents the fuel not burn.
Lack of compression: If the charge of air and fuel is not compressed properly, the combustion process will not work like it would. Lack of compression might happen for these under listed reasons:
Your piston rings are bad (letting air/fuel to leak past the piston during compression).
The intake or exhaust valves are not closing properly, again allowing a leak during compression.
A hole in the cylinder.
The most regular “hole” in a cylinder happens where the top of the cylinder (that holds the valves and spark plug that is also known as the cylinder head) attaches to the cylinder itself. Normally, the cylinder and the cylinder head close together with a thin gasket pressed between them to enable a good seal. If the gasket breaks, small holes occur between the cylinder and the cylinder head, and this hole creates leaks.
Lack of spark: There may be no spark or weak spark for a number of reasons:
If your engines spark plug or the wire leading to it is bad, the spark will be weak.
If the wire is broken or missing, or if the system that sends a spark down the wire is malfunctioning, there will be no spark.
If the spark happens either too early or too late in the cycle (if the ignition timing is off), the fuel will not ignite at the right time, and this can cause all kinds of problems.
Other things that can cause dead engine include:
http://www.automobileglobe.com/common-causes-of-dead-engine/

The 2017 Prius Prime overwrites the previous Prius Plug-In hybrid left off. It now uses a larger battery for increased pure electric range that forces the total gas/electric hybrid range to around 600 miles.
With Its new 8.8 kWh battery pack nearly doubles the all-electric range of the Prius Prime compared to the old Prius Plug-In. The meaning is that it should be good for around 22 miles of range on the battery only. Toyota insists you will be able to fully recharge the battery pack in about 5.5 hours on a standard household plug.
Once the battery power is charged, a new 1.8-liter four-cylinder engine takes over. It’s the same engine used in the standard Prius, so it has all the latest fuel-sipping methods that make it as fuel-efficient as possible.
On the outside, the Prius Prime differentiates itself from the normal Prius with quad LED headlights up front and a curved glass hatch out back, flanked by cool-looking LED taillights. That rear glass is flanked by a carbon-fiber hatch for weight reduction.
http://www.automobileglobe.com/2017-toyota-prius-prime-hatchback/

Whenever there is a talk about race cars or high-performing sports cars, the topic of turbochargers often comes up. Turbochargers also come on large diesel engines. A turbo can significantly boost an engine’s horsepower without significantly increasing its weight, which is the huge fact that makes turbo so popular!
This article will highlight how a turbocharger increases the power output of an engine while working in extreme operating conditions. We’ll also learn how waste gates, ceramic turbine blades and ball bearings assist turbochargers do their job better. Turbochargers are a kind of forced induction system. They compress the air flowing into the engine. The benefits of compressing the air is that it allows the engine squeeze more air into a cylinder, and more air means that more fuel can be included. Thus what you get is more power from each
http://www.automobileglobe.com/how-turbo-charged-works/

Though the past generation Chevrolet Malibu was an appreciated sedan, it actually met up in some areas. For 2016, however, Chevy has gone back to thier drawing board, and the result is one of the biggest age-to-age improvements in recent releases.http://www.automobileglobe.com/review-of-the-2016-chevrolet-malibu-sedan/
The first to be noticed about the 2016 Chevy Malibu is the striking exterior styling. In any case, it’s right to say this is the first Malibu since the early 70s that won’t look out of place in its Limited trim with the 19-inch wheels.
Chevy worked under the hood as well. There’s a newly standard turbocharged 1.5-liter four-cylinder engine that is a replacement of the previous non-turbo 2.5-liter base engine. It produces up 36 horsepower compared to the old 2.5, but its turbocharger supplies suitable low-rpm oomph plus improved fuel economy. The Malibu’s engine upgrade, a smooth and strong turbocharged 2.0-liter four-cylinder, is optional. But it might be the new Malibu Hybrid that would impress the most. gives excellent fuel economy and smooth, quiet and surprisingly rapid acceleration. The fact that it otherwise drives like the other Malibus is an added advantage.
http://www.automobileglobe.com/full-review-of-the-2016-chevrolet-malibu-sedan/

Intake vacuum are found in the intake manifold because of the pumping duties of the engine’s pistons and the restriction made by the throttle valve. But for the throttle choking off the flow of air into the engine, there would be little if any vacuum in the intake manifold (like in the case of a diesel). The bad side of intake vacuum is that it encourages pumping losses and reduces engine efficiency.
On older carbureted engines, vacuum is useful in pulling fuel into the engine. Vacuum siphons fuel through the idle, main metering and power circuits. An engine that has a vacuum leak, therefore, will likely be an engine that suffers from the signs of lean carburetion such as lean misfire, hesitation, stalling and rough idle. However the same symptoms can also be caused by a clogged catalytic converter or other exhaust restriction, a leaky EGR valve or valve timing problems (all of which reduce intake vacuum).
Engines with Multiport Fuel Injection and Gasoline Direct Injection don’t need vacuum to pull fuel into the engine because it is sprayed in under pressure. Even then, most of these engines still have a throttle for regulating airflow and the engine speed. And like the older carbureted engines, a throttle body also cause an airflow restriction that creates vacuum inside the intake manifold.
Generally, intake vacuum should be steady between 16 and 22 inches Hg (Mercury). A lower reading usually signals a vacuum leak, or any of the other problems just mentioned. A reading that gradually drops while the engine is idling almost often indicates an exhaust restriction. An oscillating vacuum reading usually indicates a leaky valve or badly worn valve guides that leak vacuum.
Although fuel injected engines do not depend on intake vacuum to pull fuel into the engine, vacuum leaks can upset the carefully balanced air/fuel ratio by allowing “unmeasured” air to enter the engine. The outcome is the same kind of drive ability signs as a vacuum leak on a carbureted engine (lean misfire, hesitation during acceleration, rough idle and even stalling). Common leak areas include injector O-rings, intake manifold gaskets, idle air control circuit and the throttle shaft.
http://www.automobileglobe.com/what-is-an-intake-vacuum/

Ever tried to tuning an engine only to find it won’t idle or run right? Ever faced an engine that just doesn’t want to run right no matter what you do or change? You may be battling with an engine vacuum leak.
Oftentimes a vacuum leak will whistle or hiss and make itself obvious. But other times, a vacuum leak will disguise itself as an ignition or fuel issue that does not respond to diagnosis. Whatever the case, an engine vacuum leak is bad because lets “unmeasured” air enter the engine and upset the air/fuel ratio.
Now how do you know when a vacuum leak is causing an issue? If your engine is experiencing any of the following signs, a vacuum leak is probably the cause:
VERY FAST AN IDLE SPEED. If an engine with no computerized idle speed control is idling too fast and does not come down to a normal idle speed despite your best efforts release the carburetor idle speed screw or air bypass adjustment screw, be sure that air is going past the throttle somewhere. Common leak areas include the carburetor and throttle body gaskets, carburetor insulator spacers, intake manifold gaskets, and of course, any of the engine’s vacuum fittings, hoses and accessories. It is even possible that leaky O-rings around the fuel injectors are allowing air to leak past the seals. Another overlooked item can be a bad throttle shaft.
STALLING OR ROUGH IDLE. A performance cam with plenty of valve overlap can give an engine a lopping idle, but same with a vacuum leak. A very serious leak can reduce the air/fuel mixture out to a point extent where an engine won’t idle at all. Also,EGR Valve that is kept open at idle can have the same effect as a vacuum leak. Same with the wrong PCV valve (one that gives too much air for the application), or a loose PCV hose. The rough idle in these situation is caused by “lean misfire.” The fuel mixture is too small to ignite reliably so it often misfires and fails to ignite at all. Lean misfire will be noticed as elevated hydrocarbon (HC in the exhaust, enough, in fact, to cause a vehicle to fail an emissions test.
HESITATING OR MISFIRING DURING ACCELERATION. This may be caused by a vacuum leak, but it can also be caused by a weak or nonfunctional accelerator pump in a carburetor, dirty injectors, or even ignition problems such as a cracked coil, bad spark plugs or incorrectly gapped plugs.
IDLE MIXTURE THAT REJECTS ADJUSTMENT. When setting the idle mixture
http://www.automobileglobe.com/how-to-know-engine-vacuum-leaks/

Rod bearings gets enormous loads of stress and top chart on the list of catastrophic engine failure. Tight or stiff bearing issues can be the result of many reasons that lead to their malfunction. Rod bearings can spin, freeze, stretch, deform and suffer out-of-round conditions. Rod bearings have precision, machined surfaces that must operate in a contamination-free environment during inspection and repair. However human error, lack of lubrication and some structural failure account for most bearing crisis. Foremost among it is HEAT
When inner rod bearings have reduced gap between the bearing surface and the crankshaft journal, a correct oil film has no room to enter between the two surfaces. This increased friction causes heat, causing the bearing to expand in the race, further sealing off the oil delivery. When temperatures increases as high as 400 degrees, it results in annealing or galling of the bearing to the journal race. This will often tighten or freeze the bearing against the crankshaft journal. Blue-black marks will be seen on bearings and journals that have suffered extreme overheating.
http://www.automobileglobe.com/effects-of-heat-on-connecting-rod-bearing/

Although it’s new look is more like the smaller C-Class sedan, the new midsize Mercedes-Benz E-Class is truly slightly bigger than the previous editions. It’s also lighter, more efficient and more comfortable on the interior. Many new high-tech systems also give it the verve to avoid accidents better than any of its predecessors.http://www.automobileglobe.com/2017-mercedes-benz-e-class-sedan-picture-review/
Description
The E-Class is a four-door, five-seat midsize luxury sedan. Despite its physical similarity to the outgoing model, it is mostly new in almost everything. ligther weight and excellent aerodynamics add to improved efficiency, while a more sophisticated form of optional air suspension guarantees a more comfortable ride.
Safety features are found. One of the features is the ability of the seats to nudge vulnerable occupants’ farther inboard in the event of a side-impact collision. Other notable feature is the provision of an unusually wide flat-screen dashboard display that is easy to operate from the steering wheel, and an optional driver aids that edge the E-Class one step closer to autonomous operation.
Body Styles, Engines and Trim Levels
When it lands this summer, the only model available will be the E300 sedan. It’s propelled by a turbocharged four-cylinder engine rated at 241 horsepower and 272 pound-feet of torque. It arrives with a standard nine-speed automatic and rear-wheel drive. 4Matic all-wheel drive is optional.
Other model to be introduced later include a six-cylinder 333-hp twin-turbo V6 and a plug-in hybrid that combines the base gasoline engine and an electric motor. There will also be high-performance editions from Mercedes’ AMG division, as well as a likely diesel-powered model.
As before, there will be Luxury and Sport options, each with its own unique styling ideas. Luxury models will showcase the traditional standing hood ornament and a chrome-laden grille, while the Sport model will be given a three-pointed star embedded in a grille with body-colored trim.
Drive Style
Mercedes has made a particular effort to reduce noise and vibration from the E-Class cabin, and the results are immediately seen. The previous E-Class was hardly loud or uncomfortable, but this latest model is particularly restful both in town and at speed on the highway. Indeed, all E-Class models, steer, corner and brake with slightly more balance than the last model even when it is a comfort-based car.
more at;http://www.automobileglobe.com/2017-mercedes-benz-e-class-sedan-full-review/

A car can stop running while driving if it is out of fuel or because of some worn components like the alternators, fuel pumps, ignition switches or sensors. You may attempt restarting the engine or gently directing it to the side of the road if restarting doesn’t work.
Car engines can stall during driving for a number of reasons. In new and modern cars, faulty sensors can send the onboard computer the wrong information, thus causing it to set incorrect standards which in turn could cause an engine stall. In some cars, this will lead to the car’s “check engine” light coming on.
Additionally and most importantly, anything that toys with the engine’s supply of air or fuel can lead to a stall. This could be an obstruction in the system, a bad fuel pump or a clogged filter.
http://www.automobileglobe.com/why-does-your-car-engine-stall/

First, to start the diagnoses given the fact that it is an automatic gear system, check the color of the transmission fluid. It should be dark red but in case it is black, then it needs to be changed together with the oil filter. After that, check the level while the gearbox is warm. Also after the selector is moved through all the gear positions, making sure it is maintained at each gear for at least few seconds before returning to the “Park” position. The box can be filled via the dipstick tube if need be. Ensure to use the correct recommended oil. This is imperative on the Mercedes Actros since fluids for cars vary. However, some producers may recommend a change in the type of fluid. Confirm with the local dealer or parts department to get the information on the updated fluid to be used.
If examination of these indicates that this aspect is fine, the electrical connections of the gearbox should be checked. Individual connector should be removed and sprayed with contact cleaner.
more;http://www.automobileglobe.com/how-to-handle-mercedes-actros-shifting-gear-problems/

If you hover around with the muck, guck and general demerits of winter driving, including the 2017 Subaru Legacy and its standard all-wheel drive to your test drive list becomes necessary. And even when you don’t, there are enough additional benefits to make it a great choice.
Advantage
Standard all-wheel drive in a segment where it’s rare to even be an option; excellent outward visibility; high-tech safety features work well and are widely available throughout the lineup; top crash test scores.
Disadvantages
Slower acceleration than almost every other competitor in the class; stiffer ride except Legacy
Intro
The new Legacy Sport trim level debuts for 2017 features unique styling elements and interior options. Also available is the Reverse Automatic Braking, which is an addition to the Eye Sight Driver Assist Technology package.
http://www.automobileglobe.com/exclusive-review-of-the-2017-subaru-legacy-sedan/

If you have discovered that a worn or damaged oil pump that needs replacement, you have to read all the instructions before you attempt to install the new pump on your own. This common sense advice seems necessary as it is amazing how many people claim they know how to replace an oil pump on an engine they have never done so on before on. There can be surprises and mistakes so it’s imperative to take a few minutes to review the instructions.
Most pump producers do not recommend the use of a sealer on the pump mounting during installation but rather recommend the use of the gasket or O-ring that is provided. The obvious reason for this is that if too much sealer is applied, some of it may end up inside the pump or block the pump passageways.
Take away the old pickup tube and screen and replace it with a new one.it is possible to attempt to clean and reuse the old screen but it has its risk. The bottom covers often hides some debris, and even solvent can loosen “hidden” debris inside the tube that will later get sucked into the pump.
more;http://www.automobileglobe.com/how-to-install-oil-pump/

If you have discovered that a worn or damaged oil pump that needs replacement, you have to read all the instructions before you attempt to install the new pump on your own. This common sense advice seems necessary as it is amazing how many people claim they know how to replace an oil pump on an engine they have never done so on before on. There can be surprises and mistakes so it’s imperative to take a few minutes to review the instructions.
Most pump producers do not recommend the use of a sealer on the pump mounting during installation but rather recommend the use of the gasket or O-ring that is provided. The obvious reason for this is that if too much sealer is applied, some of it may end up inside the pump or block the pump passageways.
Take away the old pickup tube and screen and replace it with a new one.it is possible to attempt to clean and reuse the old screen but it has its risk. The bottom covers often hides some debris, and even solvent can loosen “hidden” debris inside the tube that will later get sucked into the pump.
Be sure to use the correct installation tool to seat the pickup tube in the pump. Do not try to force it in with a hammer as that may deform the pump housing or damage the tube.
Ensure the pump is properly mounted; also the pickup tube should be properly positioned before replacing the oil pan. The pickup screen should usually be about half an inch above the bottom of the oil pan. This reduces the risk of taking in debris that settles to the bottom of the pan. Ensure the pickup is not too high so does not sucking air either.
After the installation, the pump should be primed before the engine is started. This can be done by adding some oil to the pump before it is installed (greasing the pump is not recommended). If the pump is driven off the distributor, the distributor can be removed so the pump can be turned with a drill to prime the system.http://www.automobileglobe.com/how-to-install-oil-pump/