₦airaland Forum

you're nothing short of a charlatan if you mistake emergency repair for actual repairs. comparing a quick fix to your failed temp. sensor in traffic where all you need is just a temporal solution to keep you going to such an extensive repair such as an engine overhaul that should be carried out in a well equipped workshop. talk of emergency repairs, you're an infant to me.

i took off from ilorin in a 2008 camry and had a failed belt, thank God it happened close to a gas station that has a mechanic beside it. boda kazeem had only one used undersize belt that did not fit. what's more important here? water pump, alternator and power steering. i routed the belt to drive these three and left out the compressor and told my commuters, no ac for the rest of the journey

after driving a few miles, alternator failed in the middle of nowhere. i opened the bonnet, got to the fusebox and took out abs fuses and relays, headlamp fuses, trafficator fuses, went to the rear and took out all tail light bulbs, disconnected radiator fans. all that was left to run on battery power was the brainbox plus everything it controls and the fuel pump. i entered lagos after 2hours of driving and battery gave up just as i drove into the compound.

if crude repair is the only thing you can offer if you find yourself in a well equipped workshop, you're amore mediocre engineer. did you leave your car to keep running on the quick fix you did in traffic or you went to the workshop and did a proper replacement of the sensor afterwards.

quick fix can never take the place of actual repairs.

adanny01:
Trust me, most of my driving, I accelerate hard. I never ever get to redline but I always get up to 5krpm with AC on.

The message I am repeatedly trying to pass across to you is that, clients are not equal, some want cheap some prefer premium. From the sounds of you, you cannot service clients who can't afford premium service. What you do is not a crime but at least recognise the fact that not everyone wants premium car service irrespective of affordability.

A good Engr provides various solutions to a problem and recommends the best to the client. The client picks his choice knowing all the caveats you've put on the options.

What you do is provide one option, which is the factory repair manual. So what am telling you is that, take the factory manual away, what kind of Engr is left? You will be lost.

I have the factory repair manual of my car but when my car over heated in traffic due to a failed temp sensor, my manual says replace with exact same part but how do i get home. Should I leave the car there over night and risk losing it or connect fans direct. Does factory manual have process for direct fan connection? No. So the crude methods come to play.

If factory repair manual is the only thing you know, then am sorry to say, you are a mediocre Engr.

A good Engr knows both the factory repair manual and crude repairs. You are simply not good at your job if you don't know crude methods.

As for me, any rebuild that cost ½ of the cost of replacement is not worth it. If rebuilding is your main job, sorry me I just dey pity your clients. For me its either a 1cheap fix or outright replacement but nothing in between.

The bearing and paper I put in the 1zz was supposed to be a short fix for festive season which was 2 days before Christmas that year. It was to serve for a month before I buy the engine. Surprisingly, its been over 2yrs.

If paper is going to solve op's problem for a year, am 100% sure he will pick that option rather than the ridiculous cost of your premium rebuild that may not last 2yrs or the 800k toks engine that may not last a yr.

Come to think of it, do you even know that the paper's position doesn't make contact with a moving part? Have you ever seen the paper removed after say 2yrs of being in an engine? Until you see it, you should not talk.

you shift your gear to neutral and the car begins to go backward, kazeem's work is now beginning to manifest. most times it tells that the transmission gearbox has been replaced at some point with with a gearbox that its gear range is different from the actual gearbox of the car, or the selector cable was not set to a degree of accuracy when it was bolted to range sensor.



if it is the former and you have a gear position display on your dash, this shouldnt happen. but if it does then the best thing to do is to manage the situation by carefully shifting your gear stick each time you shift gears and observe changes in engine sound and revs per minute(rpm). if you engage neutral, engine revs higher and if you shift to drive or reverse, revs drops immediately.

but if its the latter, very simple, just get a mechanic and let them adjust the range sensor. its the sensor that has your gear selector cable bolted to it. they'll unscrew two 10 or 12mm bolts fastening it to the gearbox, put the car to neutral and rotate the range sensor either forward or backward until gear responds normal when stick is being shifted across all gears.

DoctorG:
Thanks for this.

A new one just happened. My car moved in neutral! What's the problem here, please!! I placed it in neutral when I got to my work gate, only for the car to be reversing on its own...

Secondly, about the rough idling thing, does it have any connection with a leaky exhaust? I know my exhaust has a bad port, I've been managing that for now.

i'm really disappointed, so you call yourself an engineer and you're saying all these.
tell me what improvisation that'll be carried out on a failed factory's design that'll cost less than the actual factory's cost of production or a repair that the factory's recommended systematic process of repair is unattainable according to the repair manual.

i provide solution to problems not based on how affordable it can be but based on my in-depth knowledge of how the motor works and what failure would occur whether minor or catastrophic if i make a certain compromise during my repair process

the paper parked bearing in your 1ZZ has not seen enough hard acceleration and speeds at full throttle on redline rpms that's why you're still beating your chest over such a crude manipulative repair process and my clients would've quit servicing their cars with me if they weren't satisfied with my service so this is how i define my class and distinguish myself from the kazeems whether they do the same job for 30k or even for free, my standard is my standard so there's nothing to be ashamed of, besides i don't repair engines that cost less than 200k to buy a toks in the market.

i make compromises only when there is scarcity of parts and cut down on my service charge if customers complain that the estimated cost of repair is too high and they can't afford but never will i go below my standard of repair

adanny01:
Let me make this clear for the umpteenth time, the ability to follow factory specs is not what makes you good, but the ability to improvise when the factory specs have either failed or are unattainable.

Real engineers provide solutions to all problems not just provide solutions to those who can afford premium.

Will you still be a solution provider if your client does not have the finances to pay for your premium service? What new solution are you providing if all you do is follow factory specs.

As Engrs, we are trained to provide solutions using scientific methods. Following factory specs is not challenging enough, up your game. You make Kazeems look good.

Being a premium service provider is your choice. So don't make your choice every body else's.

If this op gets his engine back to full operation with 50k by a Kazeem and you quote him 500k, won't you be ashamed? At the end who solved a problem. Will it not be better if you provide the op a 30k, 500k and 800k solution for him to choose.

All these cars we buy cheap, why do you think we got them cheap? Next time you will tell op to buy a brand new car instead.

not someone like me. i'll rather rebuild than manipulate. trust me, engines i rebuild perform better than the tokunbos in the market, unless the owner compromises on payment. i can't do anything less than what the factory recommends unless there's scarcity of parts then i can begin to think of a compromise

adanny01:
You will be surprised to know that it works and has been working for decades.

How does it work is the question you should be asking if you don't know.

For 2 yrs, the paper is still sitting inside the 1zz. The car has never stopped working 1 day or made any crankshaft noise since then. I prefer to put the paper than rebuild the engine. If i rebuilt that engine, something could have gone wrong by now.

And the paper is an 'if'.

If the paper can make the noise go away and work 100% with a 30k budget, would you prefer to rebuild the engine at say 200k or buy the engine at 800k? Meanwhile that rebuild is the worst option since there is no guarantees.

ahhhhhh! lobatan. you were making sense all the while, but now, you just messed it all up
What the hell is a paper doing in the main reciprocating components of an engine. i'm sure the owner of that car is a pokey driver and not a maniac like me, i'll bet that paper you used to park the con rod bearing will give way within one week of my driving. i have zero tolerance when it comes to engine repair and overhaul and at every worse case scenario if i have to make a compromise, it must not be too far from the manufacturer's standard.

adanny01:
That's not what am saying. Am not talking of rebuilding at all.

What am saying is, if the crankshaft noise is actually worn out connecting rod bearing or crankshaft journals, then the fix is easier which doesn't require the engine to be dropped or rebuilt. Connecting rod bearings and journal are accessible from the sump without dropping the engine. Pls note, I am talking about connecting rod bearings, not crankshaft main bearing or thrust bearings.

I had it done on 1zz and its been 2yrs. In that case, the connecting rod bearings were worn and journal for cylinder 3 was a little out of spec. All the connecting rod bearings were changed to new and number 3 required additional packing. The packing was just paper.

Like I said before, some cars have oil pump that block access, which complicates the process because the pump will need to give way.

korean engines usually don't have high integrity, he should just get a new one

adanny01:
The issue with crank shaft is that you hardly can know exactly what the problem is without removing it.

However, since the car is parked at the moment, get a good mechanic to remove the engine sump (bottom plate) and check the connecting rod bearings and crankshaft journals. You could be lucky if its the connecting rod bearings, you can replace the bearings with a new and maybe pack them. I did same to a car and it has been 2yrs with no issues. Most mechanics will not want to work under the car like that and would prefer to drop off the engine. This procedure could also be complicated by the presence of oil pump in some cars.

If the issue is main bearings or crankshaft main bearing journals, just get a toks engine.

oga, running a vin check only gives you an idea of the vehicle's maintenance history before being sold out and shipped into nigeria, that is only how far you can see with a vin check. you can never know what repair has undergone once it has breathe nigerian dust. why not blame the person who did the inspection for incompetence or greed quote author=promotervickky post=93852375]This is what happens to you when you fail to run a VINCheck.[/quote]

he should be looking for a good engine not a low mileage engine, cos low mileage does not determine a good engine.

9icetoo:
Contact Gazzuzz, he may be able to help you source for a low mileage engine.

that is not enough to know what's rattling in the motor

chukel:
Op, before you change that engine, make sure its not the turbo's actuator wastegate that is rattling. Let a good technician who is grounded in knowledge of this car check it out. Can you make an audio of the sound. Then snap your instrument cluster while car is on.

low mileage is not proof a good car

chukel:
you made a comment and gave an opposite advice. If there is sudden failure at 100k miles, then he has no business buying one less than 100k miles. He should look for one with at least 130k miles.

never buy a nigerian used hyundai or kia that you dont know its maintenance history, infact, a foreign used toyota is much better that any of those expensive korean toys. moreso, your guy has swindled you behind your back and received a reward from the seller by approving a bad car for you. when it comes to buying cars, dont trust your mechanic or even your brother cos if they see beta money, them go forget you sharp sharp.

Doslop:
I saw a Hyundai Sonata 2012 online and I liked the car so I called the seller and arranged for someone I know who is a driver he drives from Warri where I reside to Lagos every day so I told him to help me check out the car, since he’s a driver he should know about cars. So he got there checked the car and told me it is a perfect car that I should pay so I paid and he brought it to me.
When the car got home I started it and immediately I told him I don’t like the sound of the engine that it is too loud and he said it is fine I shouldn’t worry that’s how the car is.
When I drove it I discovered all the bearings on four legs were bad so I changed them the next day, and did lots of maintenance on it.
Fast forward exactly one week later which is yesterday I started hearing a metallic sound from the engine while I was driving so I quickly rushed to park the car. On calling a mechanic this morning he said the it is crankshaft and connecting rod noise that they have to dismantle the engine and change them or he’ll advise me to buy a new engine that if they repair the one on it it wouldn’t last at all.
I am here regretting my life who sent me to buy this car!

i'm saying trash, i know. But hey, you're trying to raise a car by using bigger tires rather than manipulating the shock absorbers or stiffening the springs, what effect does the width has on what you're trying to achieve? and what is the relativity in "Big" when it comes to tire sizing?

Philadelphia:
"Big" is relative when it comes to tire. There's rim size, with and height.

What do you mean?

yes ooo, the stupid car has only one giant power consuming fan in front cooling the radiator, that's why most benzes and bmws carry 100amps batteries

tetralogyfallot:
battery ke

the accord has good aesthetics and great exterior design, better aerodynamic shape than the toyota whether 4 bangs or V6, but hondas are synonymous with overheating problems especially their v6 engines and faulty gearboxes but the toyota is more reliable. simple engine, gearbox and electrical wiring makes it much more reliable.

PrinceDave001:
Help compare between a 2008 Honda accord and a 2008 Toyota camry,especially in terms of performance and reliability.

that is the beginning of the end if you remove the thermo...fuel consumption will increase, your fuel management system will never enter close loop especially if they route the fans directly to the ignition and cause it to keep working constantly as the engine is on. if you're scared of overheating, get a double cell rad, that'll hold more water for the fan to cool, shikena

king406:
I can't choose between Ferrari and Toyota please which one should I buy? My mechanic said I should remove the thermostat of any car i buy. Please advice

what model of pathfinder?
l

akinjare:
Is there any place in lagos where they specialize in fixing Nissan vehicles only? My Nissan pathfinder has leg issues. It makes noise anytime am driving in rough road. So many mechanics has worked on it but the problem still persist. Someone should help with a link pls. Thanks

5k for a toks. but ask your mechanic to check the wiring harness and connectors

melviniyke2002:
Gud day car gurus in d house,u guys are amazing,pls my toyota camry 2005 tru up a check engine light,vehicle was scanned n only code was p0138
O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2)". ...how much can i get new 02 sensor downstream...car is 4 cyl.(toks or new)

mind you, brainbox is the last thing to get damaged in any toyota, the simplicity of their electricals don't give room for such. most times mechanics dont trace wires from individual sockets up to the brainbox before they conclude that it is the brainbox that is bad. if you experience rough idle, check if you have blue smoke from the exhaust at higher rpm. if you notice a jerk (otherwise called limp) when your transmission shifts to a higher gear, its a gearbox problem and this usually happens when shifting from gear 1 to 2. if you experience poor acceleration, then your fuel supply into the engine ain't good enough...it means the injector is delivering fuel only enough for idling at a constant speed

DoctorG:
Hello Gazzuzz and other auto chiefs in the house. PLEASE, HELP ME OUTTA THIS SITUATION.

I bought a fairly-used Toyota Corolla 2006 model in June. Had no issues whatsoever until mid-July, I noticed my car jerks when accelerating. After a few days, I noticed it jerked when shifting gears. My mechanic has changed ATF, serviced the transmission, changed fuel pump, services fuel injectors, nozzles, cleaned everything cleanable...No change.

I decided to leave it be and ignore the jerks until a new one started - rough idling. The engine vibrates for a few seconds when idle and sometimes when accelerating. I went back to him and told him the jerks were also still there. A scan was placed there, the scanning guy said the brain box wasn't in order, he requested I change the brain box. Did that on Friday at Ladipo, drove down to my house at Agbado, engine still trembles while idle but jerks seemed to stop.

Just drove my car this evening and all the jerks have started again...

Please help!!! I've spent so much and tired of these mechanics.

hope you know that using bigger tires will require more engine torque to move the car from a standing start and climbing a hill. not very suitable for smaller engines with low power output and low torque

Philadelphia:
I will recommend you either get slightly higher tyres or use the civic that way. It was made that way to drive and handle better.
DO NOT raise the suspension.