However, when I apply the break and the gear on DRIVE, rpm goes to 500 while the bonnet vibrates....that is engine vibrations.
If I turtle just a bit let's say rpm increases to 700 vibrations stop and further drive is excellent.
Car idle smoothly in PARK around 700-800 rpm.
Please note that all engine mount are in top shape.
Car is Honda Accord 2007.
My question.
1. Why this vibrations?
2. Rpm is not low on idle ( car in Park) If rpm is low, can it be adjusted in Honda Accord 2007?
It is a puzzle that has remained unsolved.
Kindly help me.
Codes
P0141
P02185.
I don't think they have anything to do with the vibrations.
P0141 is for downstream oxygen sensor. It's just for Cat monitoring and emissions.
P02185 is for the second ECT sensor at the radiator.
Yahhh! The codes has nothing to do with the vibranium. Did this just start with the car or it has been since you bought it? Was your engine disassembled recently? Need answers to all of these please
Nemesisobaara: Can anyone recommend a good gear mechanic to help me drain my rx350 transmission oil and put in another WS for me? Location is Lagos mainland.
Except you have issues with the transmission, changing transmission fluid is almost the same as the engine oil but with some extra procedure. You can contact me on 07061169333
davidbright: Hello House, I drive a Honda Accord 2007 model with 2.4-liter four-cylinder engine...
But recently I have not been enjoying a smooth drive as the gear all of a sudden while in motion stop changing gear until I stop and restart the car
Once I restart the car the whole system reset to normal and it picks and works normal... Everytime the car's gear stop changing I will stop and restart or put it on neutral, off engine and start again
The car can work normally for a month and all of a sudden it will start malfunctioning again for months
My mechanic introduced me to a rewire who changed the turtle mouth, changed the brain box and did other things but still the same issue...
What can you advise... This can be very frustrating
Please help
Without any check being carried out on the gearbox itself? That mechanic and rewire are ridonkeylous. Gearbox malfunction is usually not a brainbox problem when it's not a Mercedes or an Audi, except if the gearbox has been replaced with not an exact type of tranny for your honda but it will still throw codes regardless. Anyway the problem only indicates that there are electromechanical components in the gearbox that needs lunch break after working for a long period of time. That means they're getting tired. Start with a diagnostic scan and post codes here. Then you can proceed to a comprehensive transmission service which includes fluid chang and solenoid cleaning. Hondas don't use single unit valve body but individual pairs of solenoids externally mounted to the gearbox. Have them cleaned up and let us know the improvement
Musty4ahmed1: Good morning, Please my Toyota camry works fine when I start the car, if I am in a hold up it jerks before picking up and when am climbing hill, or when the car has worked for a while, looks like it forcing itself to accelerate. What is the likely cause please.
Adaba0803: Good morning engineers in the house pls I need you input on this my car issue, the car is Honda Civic 06 (Asia) initially the car jumped timing and eventually 4 valve was bent cos it refused to start and I tried it for 2 days before we discovered it was timing issue. We opened the cylinder head and replaced the bent valve the car stars now but number one cylinder misfires I switched both the coil and spark plug to another cylinder but number one still misfires but it drives fine even with ac on it doesn't stall but while on idle (parked) if I rev it it revs and the rpm goes below 1 and stalls pls what could be the problem and possible solution pls.
Pls help a brother my mechanic said it will normalize it's self and I'm not too cool with that.
There's compression leak in that cylinder, were the new valves grinded and tested for leaks after fitting. Your mechanic might have your engine opened up again
salbis: I notice that my car is experiencing long cranking whenever I want to start the car to repark in my compound. It doesn't happen in the morning or even when I close from work. I usually park outside before reparking in my compound. I park outside around 6pm and repark inside my compound around 8pm, In-between these 2 hours I always notice this problem. My car model is Toyota avensis 2011. Note: The car doesn't jerk or stall while driving. What are the possible causes pls?
Simply run a scan but if scan results doesn't reveal anything significant, then you may have to check your fuel pump or dying spark plugs.
RoadMozart: Please what can I do about the rotten egg smell in my car when I'm on high speed. The smell stops after some minutes of driving. The car Highlander 09.
That means you have rotten eggs in your ac air vents. Try open up the cabin filter housing or better still get and ac technician to remove the evaporator core housing and do a thorough wash of each individual components(I mean the air tunnels)
I have a toyota camry 04, when I put on the AC the rpm does not go up instead it comes down and it vibrates it doesn't allow the ac to cool but if I am accelerating the ac becomes cold and the vibration stops
Under normal circumstance there should be power reduction when you turn on the AC, but an intake air valve lets more air into the engine to increase rpm and compensate for power loss or extremely low idle speed when using your ac. Does this also happens when you shift to reverse or drive gears? Has any repair work been carried out on your engine prior to the time you started noticing this or did you replace the ac compressor?
Have your mechanic check the ac solenoid valve loca
slowice: Good evening sir.. recently when I apply brakes while 8n motion the wheels makes a continuous squealing sound. I Ve changed clippers,pads and brake disc but the sound won't just go away.
Tell your mechanic to take out the shims above and below the brake pads and do another test drive, if noise persist, then you might have to replace your wheel bearings
apokan200: Please bosses here I do hear this weird sound whenever I am in reverse,like there is a stiffness on my front right-hand wheel and I don't understand and sometimes like sounds of 2 metals touching each other my car is camry 2013 model and second my coolant water dey dry off maybe after like 3 weeks and is this normal because no Traces of outside wastage like draining
Have your mechanic check the front wheel bearings and driveshafts, if ok the have your transmission fluid drained out and the gearbox sump removed for particle inspection both in the oil and in the magnets stocked to the sump. Some components might be 🤼in your gearbox
dougejac: Hi, I drive an 05 Camry. Recently, I started hearing a humming sound while in motion, that gets louder as I pick up pace. I thought my hub bearings were bad and changed the hub on both sides but the sound still persists. Nobody has been able to tell me exactly what the problem is. Any thoughts?
This can be caused by either the half shaft intermediate bearing bolted to the engine or the differential gears in the gearbox. It could be comprehensive if it's the diffs in the gearbox
Trinity33: Goodmorning my people, please i need help. My car 2008 camry has an issue, when i apply break, i hear this noise and feel this grittiness on my foot, i thought it was break pad and changed it but it still persist
There are two types of feedback you'll get on your brake pedal when you hit the brakes. One is a leaping feel on the pedal when you brake at high speed and it gradually cancels out as you slow down, it also often causes the steering wheel to vibrate. Then the second is a kind of vibration or shuddering when you brake at low speeds (usually from 10km/h below). If it's the first, then your brake discs are warped and it's sending harmonic motions through the hydraulic lines caused by the back and forth movement of the calliper pistons as you apply the brakes. The second is a bit trickier, when you feel that vibration, you'll hear the ABS pump activate for a few seconds. The ABS computer is detecting a locked wheel at low speed and activating the hydraulic pump which is sending a kickback to the pedals. You may have to check the front wheel speed sensors or ABS reluctor rings on the shaft (only the front)
why won't 4billion be approved for fueling when the only purpose of those toyota hiluxes and ford rangers is to cruise around a 2020 Landcruiser and 2021 G-wagon front and rear with guns pointing out the window when the armored boxes parked at bus stops and garages already have flat tires and the police boys have turned it into a house. Then one animal wearing agbada will say they're fighting insecurity.
be good at what i don't do? or what i've never done before? like telling a race driver "you are not even a good footballer", use your head and get the message
ObiOfOnistha: The message is useless like the messenger, it people like you that will be groaning and lamenting Lagos State where as you came from a bush from one inviable Ebonyi state, you talk of Lagos traffic with ridicule and you forgotten the insanity of drivers that needed draconian measure to be cleansed, fashola was fined and warned them and it never get better, I hope when the are learning through the hard way of not taking one way, their brain will open and do the right thing
i hope you know the people behind the auctioning are the ring leaders of traffic offenders. Keep opening your dirty mouth and spewing shit out of your chaffhead. what do you do when you see a fleet of convoy of Landcruisers and Hiluxes with red and blue strobe lights racing along one way when the other side of the lane is on stand still. You cheer at them? only dimwits like you who hasn't come to the realization that "Law makers are law breakers" and are the primary cause of the lawlessness in the society that will ignorantly back the government and support their ruthless decisions
lyort: you shift your gear to neutral and the car begins to go backward, kazeem's work is now beginning to manifest. most times it tells that the transmission gearbox has been replaced at some point with with a gearbox that its gear range is different from the actual gearbox of the car, or the selector cable was not set to a degree of accuracy when it was bolted to range sensor.
if it is the former and you have a gear position display on your dash, this shouldnt happen. but if it does then the best thing to do is to manage the situation by carefully shifting your gear stick each time you shift gears and observe changes in engine sound and revs per minute(rpm). if you engage neutral, engine revs higher and if you shift to drive or reverse, revs drops immediately.
but if its the latter, very simple, just get a mechanic and let them adjust the range sensor. its the sensor that has your gear selector cable bolted to it. they'll unscrew two 10 or 12mm bolts fastening it to the gearbox, put the car to neutral and rotate the range sensor either forward or backward until gear responds normal when stick is being shifted across all gears.
9icetoo: Yet again you miss it. Misinformation is what is being challenged here. Not your person. Time and time again, we have tried to explain to you that high mileage is not the author and finisher of all car buying guide. There are cars with 150k miles that are better than cars with 100k miles.
There is no hard and fast rule about this thing. There are 2018 model cars with 100k miles already. Doubt me? Go to copart, Manheim, iaai, adesa, mobile.de, etc. Your eyes will pop at the mileages of some 2015 model cars. It's highway miles. They are better off than some low miles driven in los angeles, New York and some other cities in usa with heavy traffic. These cars have spent their entire lives on the freeway turning over at 2000rpm with sufficient lubrication and not idling away at traffic lights with minimum lubrication or lugging in low gears.
I come in peace.
...coupled with all the upshift and downshift of the transmission when accelerating and decelerating in the city-a kind of driving that inflicts more stress on the gearbox. compared to a high mileage car that upshifts once and continues on its highest gear for the remainder of the journey leaving the clutches and shift solenoids chilling throughout the long trip. they'll never learn until they fall victim.
i have cleared tokunbo cars from port and the heavily loaded high mileage cars that were rolled out of the container have extraordinary performance, same way 70k 100k miles had knocked engines and their profiles were tagged clean title run and drive on copart
my brother, its not the owner oo. the car is a 2015 model bought at brand new in 2016. she never slacked with her oil change and is very meticulous with maintenance. its the mechanics who serviced using one of the worst mineral oil in the market. the fear of not letting her baby get damaged by egbon kazeem made her turn to the service center in a mega filling station(jekin f'oruko bo won l'asiri) with the hope of getting a more quality service, but ordinary misfire they could not detect its root cause.
from spark plugs to ignition coils to injector nozzles, nothing worked, even used a diagnostic scanner to raise the idle to about 1500rpm, the engine could still not hold up with the AC. they just made the innocent woman wasted money without result. befuddled and didn't know what else to check, they told her to buy another engine, naso mama para say "motor wey una begin service from brand new naim make i change engine in less than 4years? " no way.
it was her friend who referred me to her and when i checked, engine smoked caused by worn out piston rings, 5 valves bent and six rocker arms across 3 cylinders displaced from the top of the valves. a problem very synonymous with toyota's ZR and TR(engine family) poorly designed cylinder head and valve train.
so the engine was abused by the mechanics not the owner
diportivo: how many years has the engine spent on earth??
lets assume it's a 2014 and it was rebuilt this year,a 6 year old engine will mostdef shine
my own na say,how the owner take abuse am sotey e need rebuild after few years of use
shebi na toyota rugged pass and the engine no dey spoil.....Corolla for that matter o
being a good engineer is not by acquiring all the expensive equipments and machineries but by getting the best out of the few hand tools you have. we start small and grow big, cos i've seen people who launched their workshops with expensive tools and equipments. with all the publicity and adverts, they shrink back to zero. i'm sure you'll still put paper inside engine if they put you in this kind of workshop cos i can't see reason why you'll compare a factory assembly line with a auto repair shop. meanwhile, i painted that engine and after assembling using brand new OEM parts? that engine sounded like a brand new when we started it.
adanny01: Trust me, most of my driving, I accelerate hard. I never ever get to redline but I always get up to 5krpm with AC on.
The message I am repeatedly trying to pass across to you is that, clients are not equal, some want cheap some prefer premium. From the sounds of you, you cannot service clients who can't afford premium service. What you do is not a crime but at least recognise the fact that not everyone wants premium car service irrespective of affordability.
A good Engr provides various solutions to a problem and recommends the best to the client. The client picks his choice knowing all the caveats you've put on the options.
What you do is provide one option, which is the factory repair manual. So what am telling you is that, take the factory manual away, what kind of Engr is left? You will be lost.
I have the factory repair manual of my car but when my car over heated in traffic due to a failed temp sensor, my manual says replace with exact same part but how do i get home. Should I leave the car there over night and risk losing it or connect fans direct. Does factory manual have process for direct fan connection? No. So the crude methods come to play.
If factory repair manual is the only thing you know, then am sorry to say, you are a mediocre Engr.
A good Engr knows both the factory repair manual and crude repairs. You are simply not good at your job if you don't know crude methods.
As for me, any rebuild that cost ½ of the cost of replacement is not worth it. If rebuilding is your main job, sorry me I just dey pity your clients. For me its either a 1cheap fix or outright replacement but nothing in between.
The bearing and paper I put in the 1zz was supposed to be a short fix for festive season which was 2 days before Christmas that year. It was to serve for a month before I buy the engine. Surprisingly, its been over 2yrs.
If paper is going to solve op's problem for a year, am 100% sure he will pick that option rather than the ridiculous cost of your premium rebuild that may not last 2yrs or the 800k toks engine that may not last a yr.
Come to think of it, do you even know that the paper's position doesn't make contact with a moving part? Have you ever seen the paper removed after say 2yrs of being in an engine? Until you see it, you should not talk.
a rebuild that outlast aftermarket tokunbo engines
adanny01: Trust me, most of my driving, I accelerate hard. I never ever get to redline but I always get up to 5krpm with AC on.
The message I am repeatedly trying to pass across to you is that, clients are not equal, some want cheap some prefer premium. From the sounds of you, you cannot service clients who can't afford premium service. What you do is not a crime but at least recognise the fact that not everyone wants premium car service irrespective of affordability.
A good Engr provides various solutions to a problem and recommends the best to the client. The client picks his choice knowing all the caveats you've put on the options.
What you do is provide one option, which is the factory repair manual. So what am telling you is that, take the factory manual away, what kind of Engr is left? You will be lost.
I have the factory repair manual of my car but when my car over heated in traffic due to a failed temp sensor, my manual says replace with exact same part but how do i get home. Should I leave the car there over night and risk losing it or connect fans direct. Does factory manual have process for direct fan connection? No. So the crude methods come to play.
If factory repair manual is the only thing you know, then am sorry to say, you are a mediocre Engr.
A good Engr knows both the factory repair manual and crude repairs. You are simply not good at your job if you don't know crude methods.
As for me, any rebuild that cost ½ of the cost of replacement is not worth it. If rebuilding is your main job, sorry me I just dey pity your clients. For me its either a 1cheap fix or outright replacement but nothing in between.
The bearing and paper I put in the 1zz was supposed to be a short fix for festive season which was 2 days before Christmas that year. It was to serve for a month before I buy the engine. Surprisingly, its been over 2yrs.
If paper is going to solve op's problem for a year, am 100% sure he will pick that option rather than the ridiculous cost of your premium rebuild that may not last 2yrs or the 800k toks engine that may not last a yr.
Come to think of it, do you even know that the paper's position doesn't make contact with a moving part? Have you ever seen the paper removed after say 2yrs of being in an engine? Until you see it, you should not talk.
adanny01: Trust me, most of my driving, I accelerate hard. I never ever get to redline but I always get up to 5krpm with AC on.
The message I am repeatedly trying to pass across to you is that, clients are not equal, some want cheap some prefer premium. From the sounds of you, you cannot service clients who can't afford premium service. What you do is not a crime but at least recognise the fact that not everyone wants premium car service irrespective of affordability.
A good Engr provides various solutions to a problem and recommends the best to the client. The client picks his choice knowing all the caveats you've put on the options.
What you do is provide one option, which is the factory repair manual. So what am telling you is that, take the factory manual away, what kind of Engr is left? You will be lost.
I have the factory repair manual of my car but when my car over heated in traffic due to a failed temp sensor, my manual says replace with exact same part but how do i get home. Should I leave the car there over night and risk losing it or connect fans direct. Does factory manual have process for direct fan connection? No. So the crude methods come to play.
If factory repair manual is the only thing you know, then am sorry to say, you are a mediocre Engr.
A good Engr knows both the factory repair manual and crude repairs. You are simply not good at your job if you don't know crude methods.
As for me, any rebuild that cost ½ of the cost of replacement is not worth it. If rebuilding is your main job, sorry me I just dey pity your clients. For me its either a 1cheap fix or outright replacement but nothing in between.
The bearing and paper I put in the 1zz was supposed to be a short fix for festive season which was 2 days before Christmas that year. It was to serve for a month before I buy the engine. Surprisingly, its been over 2yrs.
If paper is going to solve op's problem for a year, am 100% sure he will pick that option rather than the ridiculous cost of your premium rebuild that may not last 2yrs or the 800k toks engine that may not last a yr.
Come to think of it, do you even know that the paper's position doesn't make contact with a moving part? Have you ever seen the paper removed after say 2yrs of being in an engine? Until you see it, you should not talk.
Car Talk › Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by lyort: 10:48pm On Apr 08, 2023
" no way. 
