RoadMozart: Please what can I do about the rotten egg smell in my car when I'm on high speed. The smell stops after some minutes of driving. The car Highlander 09.
That means you have rotten eggs in your ac air vents. Try open up the cabin filter housing or better still get and ac technician to remove the evaporator core housing and do a thorough wash of each individual components(I mean the air tunnels)
I have a toyota camry 04, when I put on the AC the rpm does not go up instead it comes down and it vibrates it doesn't allow the ac to cool but if I am accelerating the ac becomes cold and the vibration stops
Under normal circumstance there should be power reduction when you turn on the AC, but an intake air valve lets more air into the engine to increase rpm and compensate for power loss or extremely low idle speed when using your ac. Does this also happens when you shift to reverse or drive gears? Has any repair work been carried out on your engine prior to the time you started noticing this or did you replace the ac compressor?
Have your mechanic check the ac solenoid valve loca
slowice: Good evening sir.. recently when I apply brakes while 8n motion the wheels makes a continuous squealing sound. I Ve changed clippers,pads and brake disc but the sound won't just go away.
Tell your mechanic to take out the shims above and below the brake pads and do another test drive, if noise persist, then you might have to replace your wheel bearings
apokan200: Please bosses here I do hear this weird sound whenever I am in reverse,like there is a stiffness on my front right-hand wheel and I don't understand and sometimes like sounds of 2 metals touching each other my car is camry 2013 model and second my coolant water dey dry off maybe after like 3 weeks and is this normal because no Traces of outside wastage like draining
Have your mechanic check the front wheel bearings and driveshafts, if ok the have your transmission fluid drained out and the gearbox sump removed for particle inspection both in the oil and in the magnets stocked to the sump. Some components might be 🤼in your gearbox
dougejac: Hi, I drive an 05 Camry. Recently, I started hearing a humming sound while in motion, that gets louder as I pick up pace. I thought my hub bearings were bad and changed the hub on both sides but the sound still persists. Nobody has been able to tell me exactly what the problem is. Any thoughts?
This can be caused by either the half shaft intermediate bearing bolted to the engine or the differential gears in the gearbox. It could be comprehensive if it's the diffs in the gearbox
Trinity33: Goodmorning my people, please i need help. My car 2008 camry has an issue, when i apply break, i hear this noise and feel this grittiness on my foot, i thought it was break pad and changed it but it still persist
There are two types of feedback you'll get on your brake pedal when you hit the brakes. One is a leaping feel on the pedal when you brake at high speed and it gradually cancels out as you slow down, it also often causes the steering wheel to vibrate. Then the second is a kind of vibration or shuddering when you brake at low speeds (usually from 10km/h below). If it's the first, then your brake discs are warped and it's sending harmonic motions through the hydraulic lines caused by the back and forth movement of the calliper pistons as you apply the brakes. The second is a bit trickier, when you feel that vibration, you'll hear the ABS pump activate for a few seconds. The ABS computer is detecting a locked wheel at low speed and activating the hydraulic pump which is sending a kickback to the pedals. You may have to check the front wheel speed sensors or ABS reluctor rings on the shaft (only the front)
why won't 4billion be approved for fueling when the only purpose of those toyota hiluxes and ford rangers is to cruise around a 2020 Landcruiser and 2021 G-wagon front and rear with guns pointing out the window when the armored boxes parked at bus stops and garages already have flat tires and the police boys have turned it into a house. Then one animal wearing agbada will say they're fighting insecurity.
be good at what i don't do? or what i've never done before? like telling a race driver "you are not even a good footballer", use your head and get the message
ObiOfOnistha: The message is useless like the messenger, it people like you that will be groaning and lamenting Lagos State where as you came from a bush from one inviable Ebonyi state, you talk of Lagos traffic with ridicule and you forgotten the insanity of drivers that needed draconian measure to be cleansed, fashola was fined and warned them and it never get better, I hope when the are learning through the hard way of not taking one way, their brain will open and do the right thing
i hope you know the people behind the auctioning are the ring leaders of traffic offenders. Keep opening your dirty mouth and spewing shit out of your chaffhead. what do you do when you see a fleet of convoy of Landcruisers and Hiluxes with red and blue strobe lights racing along one way when the other side of the lane is on stand still. You cheer at them? only dimwits like you who hasn't come to the realization that "Law makers are law breakers" and are the primary cause of the lawlessness in the society that will ignorantly back the government and support their ruthless decisions
lyort: you shift your gear to neutral and the car begins to go backward, kazeem's work is now beginning to manifest. most times it tells that the transmission gearbox has been replaced at some point with with a gearbox that its gear range is different from the actual gearbox of the car, or the selector cable was not set to a degree of accuracy when it was bolted to range sensor.
if it is the former and you have a gear position display on your dash, this shouldnt happen. but if it does then the best thing to do is to manage the situation by carefully shifting your gear stick each time you shift gears and observe changes in engine sound and revs per minute(rpm). if you engage neutral, engine revs higher and if you shift to drive or reverse, revs drops immediately.
but if its the latter, very simple, just get a mechanic and let them adjust the range sensor. its the sensor that has your gear selector cable bolted to it. they'll unscrew two 10 or 12mm bolts fastening it to the gearbox, put the car to neutral and rotate the range sensor either forward or backward until gear responds normal when stick is being shifted across all gears.
9icetoo: Yet again you miss it. Misinformation is what is being challenged here. Not your person. Time and time again, we have tried to explain to you that high mileage is not the author and finisher of all car buying guide. There are cars with 150k miles that are better than cars with 100k miles.
There is no hard and fast rule about this thing. There are 2018 model cars with 100k miles already. Doubt me? Go to copart, Manheim, iaai, adesa, mobile.de, etc. Your eyes will pop at the mileages of some 2015 model cars. It's highway miles. They are better off than some low miles driven in los angeles, New York and some other cities in usa with heavy traffic. These cars have spent their entire lives on the freeway turning over at 2000rpm with sufficient lubrication and not idling away at traffic lights with minimum lubrication or lugging in low gears.
I come in peace.
...coupled with all the upshift and downshift of the transmission when accelerating and decelerating in the city-a kind of driving that inflicts more stress on the gearbox. compared to a high mileage car that upshifts once and continues on its highest gear for the remainder of the journey leaving the clutches and shift solenoids chilling throughout the long trip. they'll never learn until they fall victim.
i have cleared tokunbo cars from port and the heavily loaded high mileage cars that were rolled out of the container have extraordinary performance, same way 70k 100k miles had knocked engines and their profiles were tagged clean title run and drive on copart
my brother, its not the owner oo. the car is a 2015 model bought at brand new in 2016. she never slacked with her oil change and is very meticulous with maintenance. its the mechanics who serviced using one of the worst mineral oil in the market. the fear of not letting her baby get damaged by egbon kazeem made her turn to the service center in a mega filling station(jekin f'oruko bo won l'asiri) with the hope of getting a more quality service, but ordinary misfire they could not detect its root cause.
from spark plugs to ignition coils to injector nozzles, nothing worked, even used a diagnostic scanner to raise the idle to about 1500rpm, the engine could still not hold up with the AC. they just made the innocent woman wasted money without result. befuddled and didn't know what else to check, they told her to buy another engine, naso mama para say "motor wey una begin service from brand new naim make i change engine in less than 4years? " no way.
it was her friend who referred me to her and when i checked, engine smoked caused by worn out piston rings, 5 valves bent and six rocker arms across 3 cylinders displaced from the top of the valves. a problem very synonymous with toyota's ZR and TR(engine family) poorly designed cylinder head and valve train.
so the engine was abused by the mechanics not the owner
diportivo: how many years has the engine spent on earth??
lets assume it's a 2014 and it was rebuilt this year,a 6 year old engine will mostdef shine
my own na say,how the owner take abuse am sotey e need rebuild after few years of use
shebi na toyota rugged pass and the engine no dey spoil.....Corolla for that matter o
being a good engineer is not by acquiring all the expensive equipments and machineries but by getting the best out of the few hand tools you have. we start small and grow big, cos i've seen people who launched their workshops with expensive tools and equipments. with all the publicity and adverts, they shrink back to zero. i'm sure you'll still put paper inside engine if they put you in this kind of workshop cos i can't see reason why you'll compare a factory assembly line with a auto repair shop. meanwhile, i painted that engine and after assembling using brand new OEM parts? that engine sounded like a brand new when we started it.
adanny01: Trust me, most of my driving, I accelerate hard. I never ever get to redline but I always get up to 5krpm with AC on.
The message I am repeatedly trying to pass across to you is that, clients are not equal, some want cheap some prefer premium. From the sounds of you, you cannot service clients who can't afford premium service. What you do is not a crime but at least recognise the fact that not everyone wants premium car service irrespective of affordability.
A good Engr provides various solutions to a problem and recommends the best to the client. The client picks his choice knowing all the caveats you've put on the options.
What you do is provide one option, which is the factory repair manual. So what am telling you is that, take the factory manual away, what kind of Engr is left? You will be lost.
I have the factory repair manual of my car but when my car over heated in traffic due to a failed temp sensor, my manual says replace with exact same part but how do i get home. Should I leave the car there over night and risk losing it or connect fans direct. Does factory manual have process for direct fan connection? No. So the crude methods come to play.
If factory repair manual is the only thing you know, then am sorry to say, you are a mediocre Engr.
A good Engr knows both the factory repair manual and crude repairs. You are simply not good at your job if you don't know crude methods.
As for me, any rebuild that cost ½ of the cost of replacement is not worth it. If rebuilding is your main job, sorry me I just dey pity your clients. For me its either a 1cheap fix or outright replacement but nothing in between.
The bearing and paper I put in the 1zz was supposed to be a short fix for festive season which was 2 days before Christmas that year. It was to serve for a month before I buy the engine. Surprisingly, its been over 2yrs.
If paper is going to solve op's problem for a year, am 100% sure he will pick that option rather than the ridiculous cost of your premium rebuild that may not last 2yrs or the 800k toks engine that may not last a yr.
Come to think of it, do you even know that the paper's position doesn't make contact with a moving part? Have you ever seen the paper removed after say 2yrs of being in an engine? Until you see it, you should not talk.
a rebuild that outlast aftermarket tokunbo engines
adanny01: Trust me, most of my driving, I accelerate hard. I never ever get to redline but I always get up to 5krpm with AC on.
The message I am repeatedly trying to pass across to you is that, clients are not equal, some want cheap some prefer premium. From the sounds of you, you cannot service clients who can't afford premium service. What you do is not a crime but at least recognise the fact that not everyone wants premium car service irrespective of affordability.
A good Engr provides various solutions to a problem and recommends the best to the client. The client picks his choice knowing all the caveats you've put on the options.
What you do is provide one option, which is the factory repair manual. So what am telling you is that, take the factory manual away, what kind of Engr is left? You will be lost.
I have the factory repair manual of my car but when my car over heated in traffic due to a failed temp sensor, my manual says replace with exact same part but how do i get home. Should I leave the car there over night and risk losing it or connect fans direct. Does factory manual have process for direct fan connection? No. So the crude methods come to play.
If factory repair manual is the only thing you know, then am sorry to say, you are a mediocre Engr.
A good Engr knows both the factory repair manual and crude repairs. You are simply not good at your job if you don't know crude methods.
As for me, any rebuild that cost ½ of the cost of replacement is not worth it. If rebuilding is your main job, sorry me I just dey pity your clients. For me its either a 1cheap fix or outright replacement but nothing in between.
The bearing and paper I put in the 1zz was supposed to be a short fix for festive season which was 2 days before Christmas that year. It was to serve for a month before I buy the engine. Surprisingly, its been over 2yrs.
If paper is going to solve op's problem for a year, am 100% sure he will pick that option rather than the ridiculous cost of your premium rebuild that may not last 2yrs or the 800k toks engine that may not last a yr.
Come to think of it, do you even know that the paper's position doesn't make contact with a moving part? Have you ever seen the paper removed after say 2yrs of being in an engine? Until you see it, you should not talk.
adanny01: Trust me, most of my driving, I accelerate hard. I never ever get to redline but I always get up to 5krpm with AC on.
The message I am repeatedly trying to pass across to you is that, clients are not equal, some want cheap some prefer premium. From the sounds of you, you cannot service clients who can't afford premium service. What you do is not a crime but at least recognise the fact that not everyone wants premium car service irrespective of affordability.
A good Engr provides various solutions to a problem and recommends the best to the client. The client picks his choice knowing all the caveats you've put on the options.
What you do is provide one option, which is the factory repair manual. So what am telling you is that, take the factory manual away, what kind of Engr is left? You will be lost.
I have the factory repair manual of my car but when my car over heated in traffic due to a failed temp sensor, my manual says replace with exact same part but how do i get home. Should I leave the car there over night and risk losing it or connect fans direct. Does factory manual have process for direct fan connection? No. So the crude methods come to play.
If factory repair manual is the only thing you know, then am sorry to say, you are a mediocre Engr.
A good Engr knows both the factory repair manual and crude repairs. You are simply not good at your job if you don't know crude methods.
As for me, any rebuild that cost ½ of the cost of replacement is not worth it. If rebuilding is your main job, sorry me I just dey pity your clients. For me its either a 1cheap fix or outright replacement but nothing in between.
The bearing and paper I put in the 1zz was supposed to be a short fix for festive season which was 2 days before Christmas that year. It was to serve for a month before I buy the engine. Surprisingly, its been over 2yrs.
If paper is going to solve op's problem for a year, am 100% sure he will pick that option rather than the ridiculous cost of your premium rebuild that may not last 2yrs or the 800k toks engine that may not last a yr.
Come to think of it, do you even know that the paper's position doesn't make contact with a moving part? Have you ever seen the paper removed after say 2yrs of being in an engine? Until you see it, you should not talk.
you're nothing short of a charlatan if you mistake emergency repair for actual repairs. comparing a quick fix to your failed temp. sensor in traffic where all you need is just a temporal solution to keep you going to such an extensive repair such as an engine overhaul that should be carried out in a well equipped workshop. talk of emergency repairs, you're an infant to me.
i took off from ilorin in a 2008 camry and had a failed belt, thank God it happened close to a gas station that has a mechanic beside it. boda kazeem had only one used undersize belt that did not fit. what's more important here? water pump, alternator and power steering. i routed the belt to drive these three and left out the compressor and told my commuters, no ac for the rest of the journey
after driving a few miles, alternator failed in the middle of nowhere. i opened the bonnet, got to the fusebox and took out abs fuses and relays, headlamp fuses, trafficator fuses, went to the rear and took out all tail light bulbs, disconnected radiator fans. all that was left to run on battery power was the brainbox plus everything it controls and the fuel pump. i entered lagos after 2hours of driving and battery gave up just as i drove into the compound.
if crude repair is the only thing you can offer if you find yourself in a well equipped workshop, you're amore mediocre engineer. did you leave your car to keep running on the quick fix you did in traffic or you went to the workshop and did a proper replacement of the sensor afterwards.
quick fix can never take the place of actual repairs.
adanny01: Trust me, most of my driving, I accelerate hard. I never ever get to redline but I always get up to 5krpm with AC on.
The message I am repeatedly trying to pass across to you is that, clients are not equal, some want cheap some prefer premium. From the sounds of you, you cannot service clients who can't afford premium service. What you do is not a crime but at least recognise the fact that not everyone wants premium car service irrespective of affordability.
A good Engr provides various solutions to a problem and recommends the best to the client. The client picks his choice knowing all the caveats you've put on the options.
What you do is provide one option, which is the factory repair manual. So what am telling you is that, take the factory manual away, what kind of Engr is left? You will be lost.
I have the factory repair manual of my car but when my car over heated in traffic due to a failed temp sensor, my manual says replace with exact same part but how do i get home. Should I leave the car there over night and risk losing it or connect fans direct. Does factory manual have process for direct fan connection? No. So the crude methods come to play.
If factory repair manual is the only thing you know, then am sorry to say, you are a mediocre Engr.
A good Engr knows both the factory repair manual and crude repairs. You are simply not good at your job if you don't know crude methods.
As for me, any rebuild that cost ½ of the cost of replacement is not worth it. If rebuilding is your main job, sorry me I just dey pity your clients. For me its either a 1cheap fix or outright replacement but nothing in between.
The bearing and paper I put in the 1zz was supposed to be a short fix for festive season which was 2 days before Christmas that year. It was to serve for a month before I buy the engine. Surprisingly, its been over 2yrs.
If paper is going to solve op's problem for a year, am 100% sure he will pick that option rather than the ridiculous cost of your premium rebuild that may not last 2yrs or the 800k toks engine that may not last a yr.
Come to think of it, do you even know that the paper's position doesn't make contact with a moving part? Have you ever seen the paper removed after say 2yrs of being in an engine? Until you see it, you should not talk.
you shift your gear to neutral and the car begins to go backward, kazeem's work is now beginning to manifest. most times it tells that the transmission gearbox has been replaced at some point with with a gearbox that its gear range is different from the actual gearbox of the car, or the selector cable was not set to a degree of accuracy when it was bolted to range sensor.
if it is the former and you have a gear position display on your dash, this shouldnt happen. but if it does then the best thing to do is to manage the situation by carefully shifting your gear stick each time you shift gears and observe changes in engine sound and revs per minute(rpm). if you engage neutral, engine revs higher and if you shift to drive or reverse, revs drops immediately.
but if its the latter, very simple, just get a mechanic and let them adjust the range sensor. its the sensor that has your gear selector cable bolted to it. they'll unscrew two 10 or 12mm bolts fastening it to the gearbox, put the car to neutral and rotate the range sensor either forward or backward until gear responds normal when stick is being shifted across all gears.
A new one just happened. My car moved in neutral! What's the problem here, please!! I placed it in neutral when I got to my work gate, only for the car to be reversing on its own...
Secondly, about the rough idling thing, does it have any connection with a leaky exhaust? I know my exhaust has a bad port, I've been managing that for now.
i'm really disappointed, so you call yourself an engineer and you're saying all these. tell me what improvisation that'll be carried out on a failed factory's design that'll cost less than the actual factory's cost of production or a repair that the factory's recommended systematic process of repair is unattainable according to the repair manual.
i provide solution to problems not based on how affordable it can be but based on my in-depth knowledge of how the motor works and what failure would occur whether minor or catastrophic if i make a certain compromise during my repair process
the paper parked bearing in your 1ZZ has not seen enough hard acceleration and speeds at full throttle on redline rpms that's why you're still beating your chest over such a crude manipulative repair process and my clients would've quit servicing their cars with me if they weren't satisfied with my service so this is how i define my class and distinguish myself from the kazeems whether they do the same job for 30k or even for free, my standard is my standard so there's nothing to be ashamed of, besides i don't repair engines that cost less than 200k to buy a toks in the market.
i make compromises only when there is scarcity of parts and cut down on my service charge if customers complain that the estimated cost of repair is too high and they can't afford but never will i go below my standard of repair
adanny01: Let me make this clear for the umpteenth time, the ability to follow factory specs is not what makes you good, but the ability to improvise when the factory specs have either failed or are unattainable.
Real engineers provide solutions to all problems not just provide solutions to those who can afford premium.
Will you still be a solution provider if your client does not have the finances to pay for your premium service? What new solution are you providing if all you do is follow factory specs.
As Engrs, we are trained to provide solutions using scientific methods. Following factory specs is not challenging enough, up your game. You make Kazeems look good.
Being a premium service provider is your choice. So don't make your choice every body else's.
If this op gets his engine back to full operation with 50k by a Kazeem and you quote him 500k, won't you be ashamed? At the end who solved a problem. Will it not be better if you provide the op a 30k, 500k and 800k solution for him to choose.
All these cars we buy cheap, why do you think we got them cheap? Next time you will tell op to buy a brand new car instead.
not someone like me. i'll rather rebuild than manipulate. trust me, engines i rebuild perform better than the tokunbos in the market, unless the owner compromises on payment. i can't do anything less than what the factory recommends unless there's scarcity of parts then i can begin to think of a compromise
adanny01: You will be surprised to know that it works and has been working for decades.
How does it work is the question you should be asking if you don't know.
For 2 yrs, the paper is still sitting inside the 1zz. The car has never stopped working 1 day or made any crankshaft noise since then. I prefer to put the paper than rebuild the engine. If i rebuilt that engine, something could have gone wrong by now.
And the paper is an 'if'.
If the paper can make the noise go away and work 100% with a 30k budget, would you prefer to rebuild the engine at say 200k or buy the engine at 800k? Meanwhile that rebuild is the worst option since there is no guarantees.
ahhhhhh! lobatan. you were making sense all the while, but now, you just messed it all up What the hell is a paper doing in the main reciprocating components of an engine. i'm sure the owner of that car is a pokey driver and not a maniac like me, i'll bet that paper you used to park the con rod bearing will give way within one week of my driving. i have zero tolerance when it comes to engine repair and overhaul and at every worse case scenario if i have to make a compromise, it must not be too far from the manufacturer's standard.
adanny01: That's not what am saying. Am not talking of rebuilding at all.
What am saying is, if the crankshaft noise is actually worn out connecting rod bearing or crankshaft journals, then the fix is easier which doesn't require the engine to be dropped or rebuilt. Connecting rod bearings and journal are accessible from the sump without dropping the engine. Pls note, I am talking about connecting rod bearings, not crankshaft main bearing or thrust bearings.
I had it done on 1zz and its been 2yrs. In that case, the connecting rod bearings were worn and journal for cylinder 3 was a little out of spec. All the connecting rod bearings were changed to new and number 3 required additional packing. The packing was just paper.
Like I said before, some cars have oil pump that block access, which complicates the process because the pump will need to give way.
korean engines usually don't have high integrity, he should just get a new one
adanny01: The issue with crank shaft is that you hardly can know exactly what the problem is without removing it.
However, since the car is parked at the moment, get a good mechanic to remove the engine sump (bottom plate) and check the connecting rod bearings and crankshaft journals. You could be lucky if its the connecting rod bearings, you can replace the bearings with a new and maybe pack them. I did same to a car and it has been 2yrs with no issues. Most mechanics will not want to work under the car like that and would prefer to drop off the engine. This procedure could also be complicated by the presence of oil pump in some cars.
If the issue is main bearings or crankshaft main bearing journals, just get a toks engine.
Car Talk › Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by lyort: 10:23pm On Apr 03, 2023
" no way. 
