rapheal5: Good morning I recently replaced the battery civic 010 vehicle with 62ah. I connected the negative terminal first, followed by the positive terminal, and while connecting the positive, the horn started to sound continuously, prompting me to disconnect that terminal. I reconnected the horn still sounding, I unlock the car with remote, lock it back still sounding, I kept doing unlocking and locking both with key till it stopped. Since then the horn sound sometimes while driving without pressing it, it also sound continuously when I park the car at noon and midnight. Pls what could be the solution.
Odukes: Good morning, please the legs of my Honda car vibrate and shakes when I press the breaks after going above 120km. What could be the cause? The tyres and the shocks are okay.
How do you know the legs shakes when you are inside the car driving? Do you chase the car and run beside it looking at the legs or touching the legs to feel the vibration as it moves?
kingreign: If you've swapped injectors, coils and plugs, and have tested to confirm that the wire that supplies power to the coil and injector is fine, then indeed, your engine valve is the problem.
A simple compression test will help his diagnosis, but I didn't see anyone mention it here. Instead, na to program injectors.
kingreign: This car is almost 20 years old, you do NOT need to programme any Injector or code injector to the engine number or VIN or anything. Its plug and play. If the injector is meant for the engine, it will work.
Even me, I shock as I read the injector coding for a 2008 Camry.
Another dispute/refund brouhaha. ... I ordered for a smartphone display. It arrived quite fast, but the display turned out to be defective. If you connect it to the board, it comes on. But once you try to put the display in it's position, it won't come on again until you bring it back out. Funny enough, it the screen is on while you are putting it, it won't go off. But once it turns off, it will not turn on until you separate the screen from the frame. This basically means that the flex cable has issues that only appears when the cable is flexed enough. I immediately opened a dispute and made a video of the issue as much as possible and uploaded as evidence. I also sent the video to the seller. Oga seller tried to buy time and said I should take it to a technician. Ah! I told him I am a technician. AliExpress offered a refund of 20% of the price. I refused. Seller then contacted me and said I should make a video showing the screen in details and then I should destroy the screen in the video. This is to make sure I'm not trying to get full refund when the screen is still usable. If he sees the video, he will approve full refund for me. I agreed and destroyed the screen in the video since it is basically useless. After seeing the video, oga then said, "now close the dispute so I can approve your full refund". Ah! Close dispute? I then asked him how I will get the full refund if I close the dispute. Dude stopped responding. In case you don't know, dispute is the ONLY way you can get your money back from AliExpress. Any other promises from any seller na scam. As oga refused to respond naah, I took a screenshot of where he said I should destroy the screen and added it to my dispute as evidence. I also uploaded the video of me destroying the video to the dispute. 2 days later, AliExpress gave me full refund without return. ... The biggest mistake you can make on AliExpress is to listen to a seller and close your dispute. If you do that, your money is gone. Any promises he is making should be offered in the dispute or implementated fully before you close the dispute. Don't fall for Chinese people mischief.
Nadingo: I get your point sir. In as much as you might be driving a 2025 model, I don't think you're being fair if you look down on me. People in real life (forget online bragadao) still drive these cars in every major cities. Moreover, all fingers ain't equal. Grace can also take me to where you are, don't you think?
You completely missed his point. I also drive a relic (a 20yr old car is a relic). But that's not the point he's trying to make. The point he's trying to make is that you can't be in Nigeria, driving an almost 30yr old car, and saying you don't want "naija mechs" to mess it up. Who else do you expect to fix the car for you? Japanese mechs? That's why he said you should fly it to Japan to be fixed. And you also forgot that the people here on nairaland that you are asking questions are also "naija mechs". So are we also going to mess up your car for you? Point is, you should learn to express yourself well.
nickyosas: Happy new year! I drive a Honda crv 2008 and recently changed the engine and brainbox. I have been having g this P2135 code intermittently... I have cleaned the throttle body, idle relearn process... still nothing. Who has faced such issue and what's my way forward? please help.
Throttle position sensor or Accelerator position sensor is misbehaving.
Please I about buying the honda accord eod 2003 to 2005 model, I will appreciate if I can be directed on the right engine type [litre engine, if having timing belt or chain which is more durable, engine model] in general things to look out for... I appreciate your responses
All the engine types are solid. It all depends on what you want. The k24 is a really solid engine with timing chain, but down on power. The J30 is also a solid engine, but uses timing belt and generally needs more maintenance. It consumes more fuel (not as much as Nigerians make it look) but if you want a car that is responsive with good power,, the j30 is the way to go.
cyif2003: Good morn. I noticed my gear oil was leaking at d point where d engine meets d gearbox... I drive a Toyota camry 2010 v4 venza engine. 22pin. I took it to d gear guy and he said he will need to drop d gear. Which he did d next day. He later said he needs to change d oil seal and d oil pump. He said everytin wud cost 100k . I negotiated to 90k. U no when it comes to things like this it's better dat d technician buys his parts by himself ... After d job d oil stopped leaking. Only me for me to notice after 2 months dat it's leaking again. Went back to him and he said he will need to open it up again . Saying dat it's not his fault dat na d part wey him buy. I am very furious kus is I know he didn't buy any pump. He has parts from condem gears in his shop. Pls any advice shud I go back to him or use anoda person. Can't be throwing money away.
I feel like slapping you. How did he go from oil leak to changing oil pump and you agreed? Na so you like to spend money?
Save UpTo 700 to 800k and go buy tokunbo engine for Oyingbo or Ladipo. Use 400 to 500 buy engine the remaining balance for workmanship and your hotel bills.
Bros, you are confusing us. Which engine is 700 to 800k and which one is 400 to 500?
arnosinvest: Man, I feel your pain — those factory Honda nav systems from that era are gorgeous pieces of hardware that are essentially paperweights in Nigeria. It's frustrating having premium equipment that can't fulfill its original purpose, but you're absolutely right about that sound system. The audio quality on those Accords is seriously impressive, and swapping it out for a cheap aftermarket unit would be a huge downgrade. Props for finding a workaround with the reverse camera! That's actually a smart move since you're utilizing the screen without sacrificing the audio quality.
For adding auxiliary input, here are a few solid options:
FM Transmitter with Bluetooth — not ideal since you lose some quality, but it's the easiest plug-and-play option Auxiliary adapter that connects directly to the back of the head unit — these tap into the CD changer port or XM port. Look for Honda-specific adapters (GROM Audio or USA-SPEC make good ones). This preserves sound quality way better than FM transmitters Bluetooth adapter module — similar to #2 but adds wireless capability while maintaining the factory system
The aux adapter route is definitely your best bet if you want to maintain that clean sound quality you're enjoying. I'd actually love to know how you integrated that reverse camera — I'm sure others with similar setups would benefit from that knowledge. Did you tap into existing wiring or go a different route?
As for doing more with the system... honestly, without serious custom work or finding rare compatible modules, you're pretty limited. But getting solid aux input and that reverse cam working is already a win in my book!
I went with a Bluetooth device that I injected directly into the XM line. Sound quality was perfect, though the Bluetooth device was not of superior quality and it started showing it after some time. As for doing more with the system, as long as I can play music wirelessly and have reverse camera, every other thing you do with a car stereo is a gimmick to me. The Google map in my phone is better for navigation than any car navigation I have seen. Playing movie in a car is dangerous, so I don't even want it. Apple car play and android auto are useless to me. So I was very ok with the reverse cam and Bluetooth music.
zed7: Don't generalize. 2014 CRV and some other cars don't have their sensors on the wheel that can be transferred, like that of the 2007 Camry. They use what is called a wheel speed sensor. It's not present directly on the wheels of the car.
Yes, you are actually right. They are known as indirect TPMS. They use the abs sensor to check the tire speed.
zed7: The car came with wheel covers and not alloy wheels. I changed to alloy wheels, though same size, I didn't go for bigger tyres. Im wondering if that is the cause of the TPMS sensor, Electronic Sterring light and VSC light coming up at once.
Any car that has TPMS has a sensor in the valve of every original wheel. If you want to replace the original wheels, you must transfer the valves to the new wheels. If not, then you have lost the sensors and your TPMS light will be on forever unless you find a way to get them back.
zed7: My CRV 2014 is just 6 months old. Bought Tokunbor and had mechanics test it before buying.
Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be the best of buy. When I bought it, it had no dashboard light. After a few weeks, 3 lights came up, VSC, TPMS and Electronic sterring light, all at the same time.
Changed a lot of parts on both front and back legs because of noises. Also changed fuel pump.
Now, after doing some repairs on the hub, ABS light has come up and AWD light.
Ive used so many Hondas and haven't had this much issues. Im disappointed, and one of the reasons I bought the car was the lack of any fault lights on the dashboard.
My 2014 accord is 4 years old and has no dashboard light. Apart from servicing, changing kick, changing break pads, changing of one fan, the car drives like a dream.
Just yesterday, the CRV had a hesitation while climbing a hilly road, something never noticed before and it's really upsetting.
The car i replaced this with was a 2006 civic and was used for 6 years without many issues. Is the CRV just a bad car or I was unlucky not to get one in good condition.
I have been coming here to complain about my rough idling and vibration issue for a while now and I have been able to resolve it. Apparently the engine does not compress well anymore as a result of abuse by the previous owner.
So yesterday, I headed to zuba with a friend of mine who's also a mechanic to get a replacement engine.
The engine we got was so clean internally and externally. It was shiny and a direct toks.
After about 3 hours the engine was installed. New engine oil 5w30 and filter was installed.
Car runs silently and not a single vibration when AC and All electrical loads were applied.
Not a single CEL too. Thermostat and original fan config remains. I took the thermostat from the new engine also as a backup for whenever this one fails.
Thank you all for your assistance and guidance. God bless.
Is this the same car you are now hearing rattling sound from? If yes, then I'm confused at the bold comment.
I’m getting a metallic rattling noise from the driver side of the engine bay when accelerating. The best way to describe it is a fast, repetitive crackling sound, almost like an electrical wire burning and making a constant spark against metal.
This problem started before I changed the engine, so it is not coming from the new engine.
Once the engine reaches operating temperature, the noise starts, it's intermittent especially when I'm accelerating. A mechanic told me it might be a gasket issue and suggested removing managing it or changing the gasket, the thermostat and running the fan directly, but there is no overheating at all.
I’m not sure what else to check. I need help.
CC:jceesquare, conner44, macmilla,
This will definitely require physical inspection or a video at least. But one big advise i will give you even without seeing your car is that you should run away from that mechanic you mentioned. Run like your life depends on it. Like you rightly said, if the sound was there and you changed engine but the sound persisted, then the sound can't be coming from the engine. Find a better technician to look at the car.
DaBlaize: Hello everyone. Please, I'm currently frustrated, as I have been having a lot of back and forth with the seller and logistics company, all yielding nothing positive.
Can someone advise on what to do please?
I have not gotten any update(s) since 25th and it's quite disheartening.
It will help you and every other person here to accept that there's nothing you can do in most cases during shipping, except to wait for buyer protection period to end.
cutefy: Good day house. I have a problem with a seller. I ordered two Redmi phones from a particular seller who advertised the phone has Global version. However, it was discovered that both phones are China versions flashed with Global Rom. What this means is that there won't be OTA software and security updates aside other network instabilities.
Here is the issue, I contacted seller to cancel the order but he had already logged in "Partial Shipment" and therefore there's no "Cancel Order" option on my dashboard board. So he said, he won't continue with the shipping but that there's no option for him to cancel the order and that I should go ahead with the cancellation.
Now there's no Cancel Order option in my end. So I contacted customer service and complained about it urging them to cancel the order. The customer care agent said I should confirm from the seller if he had sent any of the items. I did ask the seller and he told me both items were still in the warehouse.
I sent the screenshot to the agent who promised to escalate the matter. All for me to get a reply from them stating that I should wait till stocking period is over or Cancel the order if I don't need the order. This is annoying because they know that there's no option to cancel the order on my end.
Since then it's been back and forth with customer service team and the seller. As a matter of fact, I have initiated complaints more than 8 times each time I get unfavourable response from them. And it's been same response from customer service team. The seller is even insisting on going ahead with shipping the items. I quickly reminded him that it's his actions (logging in Partial Shipment) that has prevented the order from being cancelled on my end as well as his deceit of advertising Global version that has influenced my decision. I have already ordered and received the global version from a phone center here in Nigeria
It's two weeks now, and I'm still stocked up with this issue. Please I need express help because AliExpress is showing me ExpressShege.
From my experience, you will wait complete 90days before you get that refund. There's nothing you can do about it.
Car Talk › Re: Maintenance Tips On Cars. by Macmilla(m): 3:31pm On Mar 17
