₦airaland Forum

mejai:
The damaged part

Here I am thinking my engine is dirty. Damn!

gsparks01:
Hello people of honda. Please I need people's experience with this car. There are two types of engine I see: The 2l NA engine and the 1.5l turbocharged engine. From reviews I saw online, some prefer the 1.5l for it's more powerful and can save fuel better, others prefer the 2l own because in the long run, it's more durable. These were online reviews from foreigners obviously so I thought to ask Nigerians who know firsthand how this model fairs.

I asked a mechanic about the turbo engine and he dismissed it immediately, that I should avoid any turbo engines because if it gets spoilt, I won't see new one to buy etc. So I thought to ask if this is a common sentiment in Nigeria. If you have experience with the turbo engine, I'd like to know your view. Is it a problematic engine that is difficult for mechanics to work on? Does it get damaged easily?

Your mechanic is trying to save you from premium tears.

cmoney22222:
For unknown reasons, the lite on my dashboard just come up and still static. What can be the issue pls.

How is he supposed to know the particular light you are talking about? You know no one is a magician here, right?
At least, take a picture of you don't know the name of the light.

Rumundele:
My Engine vibrate like my head is going to be disconnected from the rest of my body especially when i put on AC. My car is DC 07, I don't enjoy driving anymore.
Secondly my gear delay and kick when i engage either drive or reverse.
Experts in the house i need your advice snd way to go.

Before you touch your gearbox or your engine mounts, what is your idle RPM with AC off and with AC on?

Bullfallo:
i ask how often because I am in shock a problem. I change shock like every 2 months because I live in a terrible location. New shock carry me at most 2-3 months. While told carry me for just a 2 weeks to 4 weeks. Mind you I don’t drive every day.

Once a shock is not as it use to be. I don’t enjoy driving in terrible road. The funny thing is when they check the shock they will say it’s still ok. But me that is driving it knows it’s not.

Check all your rubber bushings as well. Smooth ride does not depend on shocks alone. I'm sure your bad roads has send all the bushings in your car to oblivion.

Starboytwo:
I miss my Eod.

He Don tay I drive am...

Reading several car talk thread has made me to upgrade in my knowledge and understand maintenance is king...

I still dey find EOD gearbox.
Anybody wey get update 🤷

EOD gearbox dey market naah.
...
And since nairaland wants us to type 40 characters, we will just be typing nonsense to complete it.

Steveagro:
Since I'm expected to ensure I type up to 40 characters
Airtel always on 43gb #7500

I'm definitely getting an Airtel sim. I hope it's good in my area.
But why did nairaland come up with this 40 character minimum? Can't we just answer a yes or no question on nairaland without typing some unnecessary sentences? Na waa o

MajorB009:
Update, had to get the OBD diagnostic tool and the fault code displayed one of this

P2185 [0x2185]
Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor 2 - circuit high
Status: Confirmed

Could this be the likely cause of the increase in temperature while the AC is on?

If so how do I resolve this pls

Oga, I'm very sure your fans are not working well. Stop giving us wrong information while expecting us to help you. YOUR FANS ARE NOT WORKING WELL.
Your ECT2 sensor is what controls your fans. If it is faulty, your fans can't work. Unless your mechanic has bypassed it to make the fans run permanently then you might be having an intermittent stoppage of one fan. I'm sure you also don't have a thermostat.
Bypassing the ECT2 sensor to make the fans run permanently will overwork the fans. This will make them wear out fast. One or both fans may be stopping when hot and you might not know.
Fix your ECT2 sensor and watch your fans closely.

MajorB009:
Yes, both fans are working
Even when I am on a stop and move traffic, the temperature is stable when AC is off, temperature rises only when I put on the AC.
The radiator has been washed, both fans are working pretty well.
I just can't pinpoint what actually is making the temps go up whenever I put on the AC

If it only overheats when you are in slow traffic, then your fans are not working well. Be sure they are blowing in the right direction.
The only difference between slow traffic and free traffic is the amount of air that flows through the radiator. Your fans are supposed to circulate air when you are not moving fast.

MajorB009:
Hi guys.
I drive a honda accord discussion continue 2007
I recently observed that when driving with the AC on, the temperature guage rises above the half benchmark, but once I put off the AC, the guage comes down almost immediately.

Also this doesn't happen when I am driving at a free road, everything is fine if there is no traffic and AC is on.
But once I am in a stop and move traffic and AC is on, temps starts shooting until I switch off the AC before it goes down.
Please what could I be looking out for?
Thanks

One of your fans is not working. Go and fix it.

HenryWilliams:
Honda cooling fans are set to low.
Thus it's spinning at full capacity..
That's the reason in holdup and AC..the temperature will surely rise..
On speed, the draft of air coming in will cool the system..but on reaching holdup..lolz.
It happened to my MDX.
I was at loss of words..
I cleaned, flushed and even changed radiator and even used coolant
Cleaned and changed thermostat,
Nothing..
Until I just stumbled on it.
I just noticed that the fan speed was the same when I switched on the AC.
Discovered the fuse controlling the high speed was damaged.. repaired it and the wahala disappeared..
Check the fan speed first .
Make sure it's faster than the normal thermostat controlled one

Car fans don't have low or high.
I think what you actually had was one fan that was not working. If you did all you did without first checking your fans, then I have no word for you and your mechanic.

Kaymaxi2222:
sup bro nice to meet you here too, so bro is it possible for the 2.0l engine inside the 08 Accord sold brand new in African market to be fitted into the 8th gen civic??

You say wetin?

jceesquare:
Confirm your exhaust is not clogged.
A clogged exhaust would cause same symptom and might not throw codes.
Modified: Is your exhaust tip clean? I believe you know an oily or greasy exhaust tip means the engine needs attention right?
Also confirm what your fuel trims are reading. A rich condition would make the engine struggle.
You can hit me up on 07089030689 let's brainstorm on it. I happen to have similar situation with an EOD I'm rebuilding the engine. This also had zero power train related code but engine had worn out and I suspect that was what happened to it.

So, I've finally done my compression test and here my numbers
Cylinder 1 = 175psi
Cylinder 2 = 165psi
Cylinder 3 = 170psi
Cylinder 4 = 170psi
The numbers are very good. According to Honda, anything above 135psi and with not more than 28psi difference between the highest and lowest number is very good.
This proves I don't have any of the following problems
*Damaged or worn valves and seats
• Damaged cylinder head gaskets
• Damaged or worn piston rings
• Damaged or worn piston and cylinder bore
Basically, my engine block and cylinder top is in good shape.
I also noticed that the spark plug in cylinder 1 was black, against the brownish color on the other cylinders. This means suboptimal combustion. So I decided to service all the injectors.
Is there any other thing I can check?
I don't have the device to check fuel trim, but I will get it soon.

ticker:
My Honda Accord 2003 AC is contaminated with virus and I want to change everything pls which compressor is better and won't affect the car engine. Automatic or manual compressor

For your peace of mind, replace exactly what you removed. Don't say we didn't warn you.

Cryomancer:
You even have time to respond to people whose brains still lives in 2002.

Once anybody talks about Honda pulling legs, I just intentionally ignore such a person because he/she lacks knowledge, and there's no amount of explanation that can help him/her out of his ignorance.

It's really annoying. We all claim to be "car guys" but we know nothing about cars. The double wishbone is one of the main things I love about the Accord and I'm not happy they removed it in recent models.
People talk about stability and good handling of Honda, but they don't know the suspension they hate so much is to be thanked for it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbU269DsMyM?si=Xn3LTQ3JLsuAhZMf

2cribz:
Dont forget crosstour is the remodified accord 08 model,and its still prone to ball joint failures esp drivers side. Ive seen almost 4 of it on the road.

I've been driving accord for more than 10yrs and I've never had a ball joint pull. Do your regular maintenance. Change your ball joints once a year or longer if your are using new OEM.
The thing is that most of you do not appreciate the double wishbone suspension on Honda Accord. Just do a small research on the benefits of double wishbone suspension. It is better and even more expensive than McPherson struts used in Toyotas. Honda is not stupid, you know. All it needs is regular maintenance due to our bad roads and ball joints are not expensive. And if he hates spending money to maintain his car, then he shouldn't be buying Honda to begin with.

Androidking:
Good Evening everyone, I have Honda Cr-7 2007 I parked for a long time almost a year , without warning

I want to warm the car again , what I and what must I do , considering the fact one of the front tire by the right Is flat , for like 6 months

Just throw in a new battery and crank it up. It's a Honda, nothing will happen. But change the oil before driving.

chrisatah94:
Hello everyone,

I drive a 2009 Honda Civic and I’ve only used it about four times over the past month and a half due to frequent travel. Lately, I’ve been experiencing a starting issue — the car won’t start unless I jump-start it using my neighbor’s battery. Even after driving it for several hours, once I park it overnight, it still won’t start the next morning.

I’m unsure if the battery is completely dead and needs to be replaced, or if there might be another underlying issue. If it’s likely a battery problem, I’d appreciate any recommendations on a good replacement battery to buy, including price if possible.

Thanks in advance for your help!

I don't think anyone in this group will be interested in giving you price of items, that's what the market is for. At this point, I won't suggest buying an expensive battery till you are sure what is going on with your car. Just check your current draw when car is asleep. YouTube will help you.

MajorB009:
Update, had to get the OBD diagnostic tool and the fault code displayed one of this

P2185 [0x2185]
Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor 2 - circuit high
Status: Confirmed

Could this be the likely cause of the increase in temperature while the AC is on?

If so how do I resolve this pls

You are lucky your engine is not overheating even without AC. Any problem with your ECT2 means your fan is not coming on, unless some kazeems have found a way to "nigerianize" your cooling system. Id suggest returning everything to factory and making sure your cooling system works as designed with no error codes.

Taalent:
Hello 👋 Guys, its urgent.

Can you help me choose the best toks car in terms of reliability between the 2019 Honda Accord Touring and 2015 Honda crosstour. This is my first car.

NB: I don't really care about fuel efficiency and my budget is from 18m to 30m last.

I await your replies bosses!!!!!

You mentioned reliability, you mentioned this is your first car and also that you don't care about fuel efficiency. With these in mind, I would go for 2015 crosstour V6.
My reasons: The V6 engine in the crosstour is a very robust, powerful and unstressed engine, unlike the turboed engine in the accord (I hate anything turbo). You don't have to worry about your turbo failing. Any turbo engine is an engine under stress. The oil helps it stay afloat, therefore you have to be extremely careful with your oil. Any mistake with the oil and your pocket will feel it .
The 6 speed trasmission in the crosstour is good enough. I don't need no CVT or a 10 speed transmission to complicate my life further.
If you intend to drive the car on Nigerian roads, I think you will benefit from the ground clearance if the crosstour.
The cabin space of the crosstour is also much more than the accord
These are just my opinion. You decide what you want.

jceesquare:
Confirm your exhaust is not clogged.
A clogged exhaust would cause same symptom and might not throw codes.
Modified: Is your exhaust tip clean? I believe you know an oily or greasy exhaust tip means the engine needs attention right?
Also confirm what your fuel trims are reading. A rich condition would make the engine struggle.
You can hit me up on 07089030689 let's brainstorm on it. I happen to have similar situation with an EOD I'm rebuilding the engine. This also had zero power train related code but engine had worn out and I suspect that was what happened to it.

I really appreciate your offer to contact you for more discussion. I'll contact you after I do a compression test, so that we won't be brainstorming on a dead engine. I don't know how to check my fuel trim, my exhaust is definitely not blocked cos there's no cat, and the tip is not greasy.

MajorB009:
Yes both fans are working anticlockwise when facing the engine.
The leather experiment also sticked to the radiator indicating air is been pulled from the outside.

If your engine only overheats when standing but not when speeding on open road, then I'm 100% sure something is wrong with your fans.

MajorB009:
Hi guys.
I drive a honda accord discussion continue 2007
I recently observed that when driving with the AC on, the temperature guage rises above the half benchmark, but once I put off the AC, the guage comes down almost immediately.

Also this doesn't happen when I am driving at a free road, everything is fine if there is no traffic and AC is on.
But once I am in a stop and move traffic and AC is on, temps starts shooting until I switch off the AC before it goes down.
Please what could I be looking out for?
Thanks

Make sure both radiator fans are working when AC is on.

jceesquare:
I've seen the video and I don't think you have an “excessive blow by” as it were.
What's fueling that assumption that you have too much blow by?
Is your PCV clean and you still have oil stains on the neck of the intake hose?

What is fueling it is the noticeably reduced power. When climbing a hill, the car just can not accelerate. You can push the pedal to the metal and the engine will not go beyond 2500rpm. It will just climb the hill sluggishly. Worse when AC is on. Acceleration on flat is not bad as long as the AC is off.
Replaced PCV valve twice and replaced spark plugs twice with no improvement. No check engine light. No oil on the intake hose, but the intake manifold is quite greasy. I replaced the timing chain myself and I'm sure it's not stretched, but i can not vouch for the tensioner cos I get e little rattle from that end.
Outside the tensioner, I don't know what else could be wrong. So I want to be sure the engine still has life in it.

jceesquare:
Cryomancer was actually not totally wrong with what he said.
You can tell if some engines (depending on the design of the valve cover and the baffle plate in the valve cover) has serious blow by from the oil fill cap. This trick helps when conducting quick prepurchase Inspection.
An engine with serious blow by (most likely from a worn rings, piston, or sleeves) would always push the oil fill cap up when loosen compare to the suction fill you have from a supposedly healthy engine.
Though I agree with you 100% that the best way to check for compression reading is with a pressure guage, but no dealer would be patient enough to have you set that up while conducting prepurchase Inspection especially if it's a V6 engine where you'd have to take out the intake manifold to access the rear bank plugs.

The question still remains, what is "serious blow by"? How do we know serious blow-by and normal blow-by? I actually have an engine I'm suspecting of having excessive blow-by, but nobody has been able to tell me for sure if what I'm looking at is normal or excessive blow-by, at least till I get my compression tester. Mine is not pushing off the oil cap like you said. No smoke comes out of the oil fill hole.
Maybe you can tell me exactly what I have. I have a video. Take a look.
https://youtube.com/shorts/b_8_Tzl5Ukk?si=msAv5ZbJh7CXANtw

MartinsD12:
The only too better is MTN with their *121# data offers if you are lucky you get affordable 6gb for 1k for 30 days or 3.5gb for 600 but then it's not for everyone it's called smart data offer

So what you are saying essentially is that nothing is better than mtn's always on for 9k, except if you are lucky.

Cryomancer:
Well I understand your enlightenment.

Anyway if you read through my posts, you'll understand that I'm not a technician and this was just a trick that a local mechanic showed me long ago. I never said it was reliable and never advised anybody to base their findings on the outcome of this "simple trick".

We learn everyday and I've always been a vehicle scan advocate to ensure proper detection and fixing of issue.

All the same your corrections are well taken.

I may have sounded rude there a bit and I apologize.
The truth is that I am also not a technician. I just love cars so much and love getting them to work perfectly.
The problem is that most of our so-called technicians are nothing but herbalists. I am yet to see a technician so a compression test, but having researched on it, it is the easiest and most important test one can do to know the life of an engine. The tool needed is very cheap, at least on AliExpress, the process takes less than 15min if you know what you are doing. It's just funny they don't want to learn it.

post=135191976:
Good evening house, I want to change my car's transmission fluid, I have never changed it since I got it last year, but when I I checked it recently, I noticed the oil has changed color and is a bit low when I insert the dipstick. Now here is my problem, the old owner says he uses Oando dexron II on it, it's a Honda accord 2006 DC, cars transmission has been fine, no problem at all, but from all the recommendations I have been seeing online and the type of fluid recommended by Honda is the atf dw1, now I don't know if to continue with the dexron ii oil or do a drain refill x3 on vehicle and switch to the atf DW1, please bosses what do you recommend?


MACMILLA
Kingreign
Cryomancer

You will definitely be safer with the recommended oil. The only problem is that most dw-1 oil we have here are fake. An original oando dextron 3 is much better than a fake dw-1.
...
Yes, dextron 3, not dextron 2.

MartinsD12:
Too expensive now

Definitely too expensive, but which one is better? Which network is offering something better? Glo is too horrible to be mentioned here.

ogunsbanjul:
Glo is the best. Have been using Glo data since 2023 till now and have never regretted it.
I started with MTN and no one advised me to leave it. I switched to Airtel and I run and even fought with the friend who advised me to subscribe to Airtel data which he himself switched to Glo unknown to me until I told him am now using Glo.
I chose Glo during the time when Reno Omokri was advising Nigerians to switch to Glo network if we want our naira to grow ( Buy naira, grow naira)
I do subscribe for 3k monthly subscription and have never finished it rather my data keeps increasing
Summarily, I live in Lagos and presently in Ondo state and still enjoying the Glo network. Switch over to Glo today and the trial will convince you.

Bros, no talk this thing where I dey o, I fit fight you. Glo is the definition of unreliable both in data and calls. Yes, they have cheap data, but what is the point of having data you can't use. Download speed is very slow and they can't go a whole day without major downtime. Let's not even talk about their voice calls.