jceesquare:

Hope you know welding is an outdated practice?
They don upgrade to throwing bolts and nuts in there to lock it in place amongst other practices.

Wait, WHAT?!
Please tell me you are joking.

GAZZUZZ:


No fast way around this, camshaft actuator is not actuating.

Possible Nigerian causes.

Welding of camshaft actuator to avoid cold rattle
Sludge in engine .

Deffective camshaft solenoid


Remotely I cannot solve this.
Good luck

I'm learning another bad thing today about our kazeems
I don't have the struk ones. The welding is most likely my problem.

GAZZUZZ:


No fast way around this, camshaft actuator is not actuating.

Possible Nigerian causes.

Welding of camshaft actuator to avoid cold rattle
Sludge in engine .

Deffective camshaft solenoid


Remotely I cannot solve this.
Good luck

I'm learning another bad thing today about our kazeems

Bazztadewu:
Its not a tokunbo car

Vawulence de sweet you.

theadeola:


Very possible, I think. Does the car rattle on cold start?

The P0011 is making me suspect my VTC actuator has been welded internally though it looks untermpered externally.

GAZZUZZ:


I was close

Senior man! You were actually close despite not seeing the car.
The last problem I have with the engine is this pesky p0011 (camshaft position over advanced) that has refused to go. After clearing it, it appears after like the third drive. Car idles a bit rough and sometimes the engine takes a little longer to start.
I'm not the first owner of the car, so I'm suspecting the VTC actuator has been welded together internally, though the actuator looks untampered externally. Please what do you think?

AutoMoTech:


The whole timing system needs to be properly checked and inspected.
your problem might be in the electrical side (wiring & ECU), hydraulic (oil related) or mechanical (VTEC actuator, timing chain etc).

Can you also possibly shed more light on how the noise was fixed? asking because some road side techs usually weld the variable valve timing control permanently. that might take care of the noise but definitely the VVT system will not work any more. and ofcourse you will have alot of timing related error codes stored.

How do I know mine has been welded? What are the symptoms it will give?
Also do they do the welding inside the actuator or somewhere external? I couldn't see any sign of welding or previous opening on the actuator. So I'm confused.
I'm the second user, so I can't say what the first user has done probably to get rid of the rattle. But I don't like throwing parts at a car.
I currently have p0011 code, rough idle (vibration at idle), a bit long crank before start.
The p0011 keeps coming back after about 2 drives.

Supersaiyanlord:

This sensor spacer is nor for o2 sensors but for catalyst p0420 code. .money wasted it seems except you have catalyst code..

It was a catalyst code that led me to the spacer. My sensor had no problem.
Although, right now, I'm trying out a new method of eliminating that p0420 code without the need for spacer. So I've currently removed the spacer and I will update the forum after 1 week of no catalyst or sensor codes.

Macmilla:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_ipQwBDKfY

So I'm still having issues with this sound.
A little background: So my k24 on my 2005 Honda Accord is making this devilish sound as seen on the video above. This sound started after replacing my timing chain, but something happened that day. The job was done by a kazeem (that's what is available where I am), but I monitored every step of the way. I examined the timing accessories and set the timing myself and he just did the loosening and tightening. So I can confidently say that nothing was out of place there.
When the job was basically done, I allowed him to install the accessories and then the belt, but that turned to be a big mistake. The dude installed the alternator with only one bolt. On driving off and testing, there was no sound even after warming up. But suddenly the belt snapped and of course, the alternator was the issue cos it was twisted.
After fixing the alternator bolts, I couldn't get the correct belt size. The one I got with number 6pk1780 was too tight, but out of desperation we forced it in. It was after this belt wahala that this sound started.
Even after installing the correct sized belt, that devilish sound has remained.
This sound is only present at idle and in gear and even louder when the fans kick in. So basically loaded engine at idle. And when this happens, there's significant vibration. My idle remains between 750 and 850rpm. The sound is completely absent when the engine is at idle without any load. It is also absent when you rev the car eve a little bit. It is absent while driving. Car has full power.
I initially thought it was coming from inside the engine. I replaced the timing chain tensioner and readjusted my valves. But while doing that, there was absolutely no sign of metal to metal contact in the timing chain or cams. I replaced the drive belt tensioner. I removed the water pump but couldn't find any sign of damage physically and functionally (the bearing appears smooth and not noisy at all), so I put it back.
I recently noticed that the sound was louder from the passenger tire well than from the top of the engine, making me suspect it's from a lower placed component.
Who has experienced this sound before? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Cc: GAZZUZZ etc al.

PROBLEM FIXED!!!
The oil pan was opened and there lies the pieces of my oil pump chain tensioner. The oil pump chain was loose and hitting the remains of the tensioner. New oil pump tensioner installed and engine closed. Sound gone!
I'm so relieved.

Bullfallo:
replace with 02 sensor

Replace what with O2 sensor?
Did you understand my post at all?

Toylove:

Congrats chief
This thing showed you pepper o

Na better cameroon pepper 🫑

Macmilla:

So I took it to a new kazeem today and he did the same thing you stated but said everything that runs on that belt seems very ok. We even threw in a new belt tensioner and nothing changed.
He is now suspecting the VTC actuator. But so many people even here has said this sound doesn't sound like VTC sound. I don't want to go tearing down my camshaft in vain. I'm really stumped.

PROBLEM FIXED!!!
The oil pan was opened and there lies the pieces of my oil pump chain tensioner. The oil pump chain was loose and hitting the remains of the tensioner. New oil pump tensioner installed and engine closed. Sound gone.
All codes gone for now except oxygen sensor code.
I'm so relieved.

Who has tried o2 sensor spacers on their Honda Accord? What design exactly worked without popping other codes?
I tried the one shown below on 2005 accord 4cyl with a catalyst efficiency below threshold code. The catalyst code cleared but I keep getting p0139 code (02 sensor slow response).

jceesquare:

See you're moving in circles chasing what's not chasing you.
From your write-up, take out the belt then start the car. If noise is not there, spin individual accessories by hand and replace the fault bearing when you find the culprit.

So I took it to a new kazeem today and he did the same thing you stated but said everything that runs on that belt seems very ok. We even threw in a new belt tensioner and nothing changed.
He is now suspecting the VTC actuator. But so many people even here has said this sound doesn't sound like VTC sound. I don't want to go tearing down my camshaft in vain. I'm really stumped.

jceesquare:

See you're moving in circles chasing what's not chasing you.
From your write-up, take out the belt then start the car. If noise is not there, spin individual accessories by hand and replace the fault bearing when you find the culprit.

My chairman, this has been done at least twice. I even joined in trying to find the culprit but couldn't. On one occasion, the kazeem said it's the water pump. But when I brought the water pump, I couldn't find anything wrong with it. The bearing seemed very smooth. Other parts sellers insisted the water pump is not faulty. so I put it back.
But I'll take your advice and do it again. Maybe I'll get lucky this time. Or I will just close eye and throw in a new water pump.
Thanks for the advice.

Adejunwonlo94:
My Camry 2007 V4 consumed 65 liters of Fuel and ran 253 lineage between 24th Feb till today. Please is this economic enough for the engine or I need to take the car for inspection?

I use the AC fairly, the car tyres are fit and well, catalyst and O2 sensors are intact as well.

By my calculations, that is 14.7mpg. I don't think that is good enough, but let the bosses say.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_ipQwBDKfY

So I'm still having issues with this sound.
A little background: So my k24 on my 2005 Honda Accord is making this devilish sound as seen on the video above. This sound started after replacing my timing chain, but something happened that day. The job was done by a kazeem (that's what is available where I am), but I monitored every step of the way. I examined the timing accessories and set the timing myself and he just did the loosening and tightening. So I can confidently say that nothing was out of place there.
When the job was basically done, I allowed him to install the accessories and then the belt, but that turned to be a big mistake. The dude installed the alternator with only one bolt. On driving off and testing, there was no sound even after warming up. But suddenly the belt snapped and of course, the alternator was the issue cos it was twisted.
After fixing the alternator bolts, I couldn't get the correct belt size. The one I got with number 6pk1780 was too tight, but out of desperation we forced it in. It was after this belt wahala that this sound started.
Even after installing the correct sized belt, that devilish sound has remained.
This sound is only present at idle and in gear and even louder when the fans kick in. So basically loaded engine at idle. And when this happens, there's significant vibration. My idle remains between 750 and 850rpm. The sound is completely absent when the engine is at idle without any load. It is also absent when you rev the car eve a little bit. It is absent while driving. Car has full power.
I initially thought it was coming from inside the engine. I replaced the timing chain tensioner and readjusted my valves. But while doing that, there was absolutely no sign of metal to metal contact in the timing chain or cams. I replaced the drive belt tensioner. I removed the water pump but couldn't find any sign of damage physically and functionally (the bearing appears smooth and not noisy at all), so I put it back.
I recently noticed that the sound was louder from the passenger tire well than from the top of the engine, making me suspect it's from a lower placed component.
Who has experienced this sound before? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Cc: GAZZUZZ etc al.

Macmilla:

I finally made a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_ipQwBDKfY

So I'm still having issues with this sound.
A little background: So my k24 on my 2005 Honda Accord is making this devilish sound as seen on the video above. This sound started after replacing my timing chain, but something happened that day. The job was done by a kazeem (that's what is available where I am), but I monitored every step of the way. I examined the timing accessories and set the timing myself and he just did the loosening and tightening. So I can confidently say that nothing was out of place there.
When the job was basically done, I allowed him to install the accessories and then the belt, but that turned to be a big mistake. The dude installed the alternator with only one bolt. On driving off and testing, there was no sound even after warming up. But suddenly the belt snapped and of course, the alternator was the issue cos it was twisted.
After fixing the alternator bolts, I couldn't get the correct belt size. The one I got with number 6pk1780 was too tight, but out of desperation we forced it in. It was after this belt wahala that this sound started.
Even after installing the correct sized belt, that devilish sound has remained.
I initially thought it was coming from inside the engine. I replaced the timing chain tensioner and readjusted my valves. But while doing that, there was absolutely no sign of metal to metal contact in the timing chain or cams. I replaced the drive belt tensioner. I removed the water pump but couldn't find any sign of damage physically and functionally (the bearing appears smooth and not noisy at all), so I put it back.
I recently noticed that the sound was louder from the passenger tire well than from the top of the engine, making me suspect it's from a lower placed component.
Who has experienced this sound before? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

theadeola:


Since the chain was significantly stretched, I'm thinking some components around that area might have been affected. Also, your valves probably need looking at tbh, especially to see if none is bent, even slightly. Also check lifters and the camshaft bearings. Or the chain you put in is also worn. I know, seems like a lot again, but I think (not 100% sure tho) your engine is an interference engine, which is why I'm being cautious.


Basically anything that the chain works in tandem with. Sorry man, but like I said earlier, looks like engine has to be reopened.

So I opened my valve cover today to see what I could find cos that noise is still killing me. Nothing seems largely out of place. Timing chain is not loose and has no sign of hitting anything. A few valves were too tight and I adjusted them. But after everything, the devilish sound continued unchanged.
I noticed the sound is louder from the passenger tire well. Having replaced the timing chain tensioner, I am so confused right now.

Note: my pending p0011 code has not returned for 3days now.

Sirnioking:
Just continue changing oil when due, the code will become tired and disappear.

The code has been gone for like 3days now. I hope it stays away for good.

Encitee3991:


I have a feeling Aliexpress is trying to integrate all small priced item to their CHOICE Package so as to save cost on shipping.

So basically, you can no longer buy tiny items unless you want to pay high shipping fee.
The only way to make sense of buying small items is to buy them as choice which means minimum of $10.
Nice one AliExpress. Nice one.

CyberHustle:

If the item has welcome deal tag, it means you can only. Buy one of the items carrying that tag. Items carrying that tag is usually very cheap, but once you select more than one of such items, they revert to their original prices. I don't know if yours carry the welcome deal tags but I have seen such before.

I have been on AliExpress for more than 10yrs now, so I know how everything works. I am not talking about welcome package cos nobody is welcoming me. I'm talking about items in my cart that were free to ship suddenly having $2-3 shipping fee. I'm talking about items that were tagged free shipping but once you open them, you see $2 shipping fee.

Is it just me, or has free shipping actually ended on AliExpress?
All the tiny items with free shipping I was gathering to order suddenly have minimum of $2-$3 dollars as shipping fee. What is happening?

theadeola:


Since the chain was significantly stretched, I'm thinking some components around that area might have been affected. Also, your valves probably need looking at tbh, especially to see if none is bent, even slightly. Also check lifters and the camshaft bearings. Or the chain you put in is also worn. I know, seems like a lot again, but I think (not 100% sure tho) your engine is an interference engine, which is why I'm being cautious.


Basically anything that the chain works in tandem with. Sorry man, but like I said earlier, looks like engine has to be reopened.

The sound was not there when the stretched chain was in use. It started after the new chain was installed. If the stretched chain caused a problem, I feel the problem should be obvious with the bad chain. Why start when the good chain was installed.
I don't have a problem opening the engine again. I just need to have a good idea of what I'm doing inside it.

jceesquare:

Sounds more like valve train noise.
Your valves probably needs adjustment.

I think valve train noise should be present all the time. My rattling specifically when the engine is idling under load (gear engaged, radiator fan on)
I also think valve train noise should start gradually and not suddenly.
This sound started immediately after replacing my timing chain which was significantly stretched. I'm thinking the timing upset something.

jceesquare:

Your RPM would drop down to normal operating range within 2 mins from cold start even if engine has not reached normal operating temperature. If the noise is more prevalent when engine is warmed up, then the noise is probably coming from areas that's constantly lubricated by your engine oil, and under load when fully warmed creats friction when oil flow is thinner.

theadeola:


we must ban all activities of village people o.

When getting the actuator, check if there's an updated part number for your car. That part of Honda engines annoy the hell out of me. Their actuators seem so fragile.

I finally made a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_ipQwBDKfY

jceesquare:

Your RPM would drop down to normal operating range within 2 mins from cold start even if engine has not reached normal operating temperature. If the noise is more prevalent when engine is warmed up, then the noise is probably coming from areas that's constantly lubricated by your engine oil, and under load when fully warmed creats friction when oil flow is thinner.

This is making a lot of sense, but you didn't mention any of those areas. The VTC actuator is actually one of those places.
My RPM at cold start is around 1500 and drops to around 1000 in about 1min and stays at around 1000 for much longer. I've never idled it to wait till it drops down further. The warmed up rpm is around 750.

theadeola:




Welcome to the club.

It looks like the engine would have to be reopened, to check the actuator. I don't suspect the chain, but stranger things have happened.

Yeah. At this point, I just want to deal with the actuator. If that doesn't resolve it, then the chain is going. If that still doesn't fix it, then I will know my village people want me to buy another engine.

jceesquare:

Where is the RPM when you observe this vibration and rattle?

Around 700-800. I don't think that's our of spec. My idle rpm is very normal even when gear is engaged or AC is turned on. It just starts vibrating and then the rattling. This rattling seems more audible after driving round and warming the engine up well. It's mostly absent during cold, but I guess that is because the rpm is still high at cold.

theadeola:


Very possible, I think. Does the car rattle on cold start?

I've not really observed any cold start rattle.
After all that I've done in trying to solve this rattling and p0011, I can only think of the actuator or the timing chain. It's just driving me nuts.

theadeola:


Er, not too sure what the problem can be, but I can suggest checks based on what you said.

1) I don't think the rattle is connected to the engine itself, since it is not present in normal idle or high rpms. Something might be loosely tightened around the adjuster area. It can also be your engine seats. Have a mechanic check them thoroughly to ensure none is damaged. I know the tranny side mounts can cause vibration in drive but not park, idle or reverse. Make sure to check the tranny mounts well for this.

2) That p0011 code is a pain in the ass, for lack of a better description. My Accord 2008 also has it, and I've done everything short of tearing the engine apart, still won't clear. Hopefully it clears, but I can't promise it will.
Check for sludge in your engine as a sort of a last resort.

The sound seems like it's from the upper side of the engine and not the lower side where the engine mounts are, though I can't be sure of this. But it is DEFINITELY from the timing side of the engine, not tranny side.
3 different technicians have gone through all accessories in that area and nothing seems off. No loose bolt or nut. A couple of the accessories replaced with no success.
It sounds like a loose iron flapping around, not like the sound of heavy iron against another heavy iron like an engine mount will make. I wish I could make a video and post here.
Also, I paid close attention to the engine mount by the alternator belt and I can say with a good level of certainty that it's not the source.
As for sludge, zero. Absolutely zero. I recently changed my timing, so I know what the guts of my engine look like.

I was just thinking, what if the two problems (rattling and p0011) are related?
Could a bad VTC actuator (intake camshaft head) be causing the vibration and rattling and then throwing the code p0011?
P0011 is an error with camshaft advancement, which is done by the actuator. Same actuator is also know to cause a loud rattling though on colds start.
Also, this problem started after timing chain replacement, which also involved the actuator (camshaft head).
I'm just trying to use common sense here.