Where is the mauling? Are you sure it's not one of these videos with a wrong caption just so to get to front page? Looks like a group of curious dogs and someone on the floor
RickyM: This is a good write up except that Satchet Inverter repair probability when they go bad is low…Says who If this is your personal experience that they mostly can’t be repaired then it’s only because your engineer is either incompetent enough or has no idea on how to go with the repairs. #NoShades Next time you should rather say you’ve never successfully repaired one rather than saying their probability is low when they go bad. My satchet inverter was damaged by lightning and it was repaired, I’ve been using it ever since then without issues. This is a public space and never say something is impossible just because your personal experience with it states that. My hybrid inverter that was damaged by lightning has been with an engineer for more than 8months and I got a call last week that he couldn’t fix it….Traditional non hybrid inverters will always be more repairable than hybrid inverters. If you have one that is currently bad and you need them repaired…Let me know so I can connect you to the right plug here on Nairaland. #Peace
Whose the plug I have 2 axpert 3kva hybrid that hasn't been repaired for long from thunder
Efenaira: . Does anyone know much about car tracking. I bought my car last year October 4th, today I received a message from the guy that did , the tracking for me telling me , that tracking would expire on the 4th of October. I ask him what next he told me I need to do a renewal, I ask him how much is the renewal? He told me # 31,500, I was like how much to install a new tracker , he said 120k with app without app s90k , I was like that’s fucking expensive . A friend told me to buy a new SIM card registered it and changed the sim in the device that with that the guy wouldn’t have any connections with tracking device .
Change the sim. That's what most of these tracker installers do to continue ripping you off. A tracker is a one time purchase and doesn't need renewal. The worst the tracker installer can do is to lock your car and claim that subscription period has expired. The disadvantage is you will now be the person monitoring your car and recover it incase of theft but I think it's worth it as that's exactly what I did. Infact I changed the password on mine and told him that he no longer has access. But eventually had to change sim because of NIN issues since he was the one that registered the sim. Even using the app is free and available on playstore depending on the tracker model
Pls recommend anyone who has the multimeter in Ibadan so I can check with him. Thanks
You can get a multimeter yourself. A cheap multimeter of below ₦8000 can do the job so far it has amps measurement. You don't need anyone's help. I don't stay in ibadan or know anyone there. Attached is the video I used for mine and it was almost similiar cause for the parasitic drain. If you have a car tracker, then expect the 0.05 amps to be about 0.09 to 0.1a as normal for you. Anything above that is probably a parasitic drain.
Tiliphoto123: My Honda DC battery runs down overnight and refused to start next morning. but if I remove the terminal head it will start the next morning and works well throughout.
Pls what is causing this and what's the solution?
Presently I remove the terminal head every night and the battery works fine.
You have a parasitic drain. Get a multimeter that measures at least 10 amps and watch videos on how to pull fuses till you get below 0.05amps from the multimeter and trace what the fuse supplies in your car. It's fun and I did mine in less than 30 mins.
HeavenlyBang: A 1 HP AC is on. Along with a fridge and freezer. 310w. Inverter technology is a must with solar.
It's either the room has reached its optimum temp and the compressor has wound down or the inverter ac was put on recently and still yet to reach operating watts
kelvinmnet: Good morning everyone, my friends 07 accord jerks when entering gear 2. This usually happens when the car is cold but when driven for sometime and fully warmed up, there is no jerk when changing gears. The level/impact of jerk is dependent on the acceleration speed.
He has scanned the transmission several times but there is no error code. Also, when slowing down, you feel a slight jerk, like changing from gear 2 to gear 1.
Transmission has been serviced with original Honda DW1 tranny oil, solenoids have also been washed even though there is no error code. Kindly assist to know what the issue is.
Try cleaning the solenoid. Start with the one attached to the transmission and then to the ones inside. Job is not for the faint of heart and will be as a last resort
icjunior: I really love this boss,but I'm a newbie and have some struggles with the last part of your writeup. The cc using 200w and above to maintain the float voltage actually means what?
Actually means your batteries are significantly less than 100%. For me I'll initiate bulk charging again to get the batteries close to possible 100%. When my batteries are full, I'll usually see about 50 watts at float voltage of 27.6v from my battery monitor. So your charge controller when no load is connected should also be showing such watts at your float voltage level (I use 27.6v for tubular batteries). This is a crude method, but it's better than nothing.
Abeg make una help me with solutions to the below problem ..
Did 4.2kw 24v installation with two 220ah tubular batteries abt 2mths ago.
Now the customer sent me a message this morning that for abt one week now the batteries goes off around 2-3am with just DC bulb load (10pices of 5W each).
Load use on the battery.. 1HP pumping machine.. Once in abt 3 and days,running hrs like 1hr max during the day.
Inverter fridge and freezer from 8am to 6pm now reduced to 3pm
And the DC bulb for night useage..
Kindly note that the batteries get alot of charge before the sun goes of.. It always in the float state before it comes down to the normal 50% battery level and still sound for low battery warning even without much load around 3am max..
What can i do to rewake or b boost the batteries pls..?
Thanks all.
A battery can be 70% charged and charge controller will enter float especially those charge controllers that don't have automatic absorption time. So you can deplete your battery and the next day your default 2 hours absorption time won't even take the battery pass 70% before the charge controller enters float because the 2 hours of absorption has reached you should get a battery monitor with lead acid battery. Another crude method is when the charge controller is in float, switch off the inverter and check how many watts the charge controller uses to maintain the float voltage if it's above say 200w or more then you have a long way to go
Atolani11: Good day everyone. I am currently having a problem with honda accord 2004 v4 engine that I just bought as Naija used.
The car jerks violently when i accelerate and it reaches around 60 to 70km/hr
I have serviced the nozzle, injector , changed fuel pump, serviced the Map sensor..still no solution. Infact, once i reach speeds btw 60 to 70km/hr..it jerks violently that i have to take my leg off acceleration. Once i don't drive above that speed, it runs fine.
I don't know what else to do. My mechanic said he has ran out of ideas. Infact when i read online that the Map sensor can cause it....my mechanic when to test different map sensors, he said they map sensor in the car works better than all the ones they tested from the seller.
Another point is that the Rev is fine on idle..it can rev very above 5000rev.
Juoflife1: When the water breaks and she's not contracting, she should have been sectioned, not induced. A baby in the womb without water is already stressed
That's not what you do. Rupture of membrane is not an indication for CS. You still have amniotic fluid remaining after rupture don't think if rupture of membrane occurs all fluid is gone. Following premature rupture of membrane (PROM) you can either actively manage by inducing or expectantly manage by waiting for contractions to start by while ensuring feto maternal vital signs monitoring and intervening when contractions don't start after some specified time. CS is for obstetric indication. In her situation as a jehova witness, CS will usually be for obstetric indication unless the couple wants it. In all careful counselling is key as you have to explain the pros and cons for each procedure for the couple to make an informed decision. It's a sad one. My only problem is was there really uterine hyperstimulation and was there suspected fetal distress? Was a diagnosis of uterine rupture made inside the theater?
Xanderone: Yes. Attached is the picture of the remote.
I thought they phased out this model? I did same mistake in 2020 when I thought gen mode will mean lower watts, only for me to be seeing more than 1000w in gen mode for extended periods. The painful thing is that I watched a review on same lg inverter AC by an Indian and his lg inverter ac can be set at different power levels ranging from 40% and so on with considerable lower watts. The gen mode is just a scam. But I read here that newer LG inverter ac now has that different power level options that has been present in other countries for years. The newer remote control has an "energy saving" button unlike this older model
Macmilla: THE STORY OF BETTY ... Betty is my 2005 Honda Accord 4cyl. I got her Nigerian used last year. When I got her, she was like a malnourished and physically abused woman. -Her engine was smoking heavily and the old user deceived me by using very thick oil in addition to that evil thing called "stop smoking". -There were crazy electrical abuse. like the engine could start no matter where the gear stick is. -The transmission was misbehaving mostly in cold mornings. -Of course, the cat was way gone, but then some evil human decided to cut the wires of the 2 O2 sensors for reasons I still don't understand. -Fuel economy was flushed down in the toilet. -All steering buttons were not working, but somehow the horn was working. -AC was working but not very powerful. -SRS and Seatbelt light on the dashboard were on. -Power steering was whining. - The thermostat was AWOL and the radiator fan was permanently on. - The moon roof was opening sluggishly and could only open halfway. ... With all these problems, the question now is why did I keep this car? 1. The price was good 2. This car was still good, first body and all. Engine looked neat. Abs was working fine. AC was working, though not optimal. So I told myself that the worst that could happen is a new engine and trans. 3. I wanted the challenge cos I love solving car problems. ... So, first thing I did was to change engine oil and filter with 5w30. Omo! My car became a smoke machine. I had to add the "stop smoking" to avoid the embarrassment while I thought of what to do.
I decided to try restoring the engine since it doesn't look bad from outside. When the engine was opened, the mechanic was amazed that the engine was completely in shape inside. The cylinder lining was perfect. Crank shaft, metals, pistons, all were in good shape. The top was also intact. The only thing that needed work was the rings. In two days, the engine was back together and running with 5w30 oil and no single smoke. Then came the VTEC problem which was solved by replacing the filter screen in the VTEC solenoid. Then came the VTC problem and that persky p0011 that dealt with me. After replacing VTC solenoid twice, the problem went away. Then the transmission. After replacing the ATF twice without much improvement, I decided to rebuild it. Why would I throw something away without first trying to fix it? That is not me. Call me cheap, I don't care. After putting the tranny back in the car and filling with oil, first start, tranny no gree shift. Second start, car no gree enter drive. I was already sweating from my nyash. Infact, almost the whole day, tranny was severely acting up. But by some magic, after several tests, tranny started behaving. Now, 3mths later, tranny is still as smooth as butter. Victory! Power steering pump was replaced with a tokunbo part and steering became smooth with absolutely no whine or vibration when turning.
About the electrical abuse, there was a strange wire running from the under dash fuse box all the way to the starter in the engine. I knew that wire was not put there by Honda, so I tore it out. As expected, car was no longer able to start. But I noticed the car will start occasionally after pressing the brake pedal randomly. So I looked at the brake pedal and noticed that the small plastic that presses on the brake switch was missing and a piece of paper was in place. It was pressing the switch enough to turn off the brake light but not enough to allow the car start. I removed the paper and constructed a good plastic in its place and care has started every single time since then. - As for the cats, I had to change both O2 sensors. I didn't replace the cat. I simply bypassed it and removed the cat error code for good. - So the steering wheel buttons. I told my electrician to bring out the steering flex reel and of course one of the two flex reel inside is completely cut. Someone diverted the horn signal through one of the intact cables. Once again, I decided to go the cheap route. I decided to solder the broken cables together. I didn't think this would work. My electrician told me I was wasting my time. But I gave him back the cable reel to install and 5mth later, all steering wheel buttons are still working. - AC just needed gas and is still going 5mths later -SRS and Seatbelt light was due to the driver's seatbelt buckle that was spoilt. Just changed it and all light went off. Car is 100% functional now FUEL CONSUMPTION: I filled my tank up and recet my trip counter. When the fuel light came on, I had 382mils on the trip counter. Car continued till 410miles when I decided to go buy fuel (car didn't stop, meaning it still had fuel). I filled it up with 57litres (14.98gal). After calculations, I got 27mpg of pure city driving. That is veeery good for a rebuilt engine. Very few cars here can boast of this mileage. ... So next I want to change the side mirrors to txs side mirrors with signal light and if money enter, I'll upgrade the wheels, upgrade the bumper to DC bumper, and give it a good paint job.
I can't for the life of me get the type of MPG on my honda accord 2004 i4. Especially with the increased fuel price, it's frustrating. There's no check engine light only abs code for right abs sensor. I'm getting like 12 mpg although it's mainly major city driving with bad roads and I have only hit 26 mpg once on fairly good road away from my daily commute. Both readings were done with a obd 2 car scanner app that calculates MPG. The traditional way of measuring MPG after refill is ridiculed with errors as I suspect fuel station meters have been tampered with and I calculated 8.7 MPG using this method.