[quote author=dollarnaira post=111961591][/quote]
Yes or new efficient affordable battery technology surfaces

dollarnaira:


On a condition that you won't stop pumping the "100amp". But how will I know?

Lol obviously my panels can't generate 100amps and my loads also take up some amps as well. The highest I've seen from my monitor charging the batteries is about 45amps for luminous tubular 220ah and mind you with that amps I get to absorption faster which will drop said amps. Also the increased amps charging are for days my night loads are heavier than usual and the morning after has adequate sunshine, which isn't all the time. So I believe this 'experiment' will last a long time. Fingers crossed

dollarnaira:


One thing is that, when it will die it won't give u notice. At first u will think ur inverter has issues. Lets see how it goes by January, 2023 at this mode. Monitoring spirit activated.

Lol like I said it's just speculation because I doubt whether you've seen overcharging kill a tubular battery. You can check the health of tubular batteries using specific gravity which has been great so far. I'll definitely update come January 2023.
P.S my lowest SOC has been about 60% and according to my bmv battery monitor. My battery has been cycled once

bigrovar:
I currently leave completely offgrid no NEPA connection at all. My solar capacity is 3kw, battery is 200AH 48v. Even though my panel can provide me 50A and can theoretically charge my bank in 4 hours (say 5 hours) The tubular chemistry means that it would take 2 to 3 days to fully charge that battery.

Bulk charge at 40A would take close to 4 hours after which it would switch to absorption.. thus limiting the current going to the battery by as much as 10A. And it can do it his for 3 to 4 hours depending on discharge.. effective sunlight is done by 4PM.. remember this is an active system and I have loads connected to it.

Over night I will draw down the battery again from the partial state I left the night before.. starting from a low position.. again battery slow charge would mean I may never finish charging it again in day two cause battery can't take all I have to give.

I can not expand my panel to 5kw cause my battery would not be able to take most of it so it would be a waste. This slow charge for me is the biggest problem LA has. That and partial state of discharge problem.

Lol when I started my solar journey, I designed my system after yours. Although you've upgraded I'm still using my ipowerplus 24v 3kva and 2 tubular batteries. From my experience and forums I've checked this C20 charging has always been the rule but when I saw how much power I was wasting from my installed 2720w panels, I increased the charge controller amps to 100amps. Yes I decided to offer my batteries as an experiment as I've yet to see where overcharging killed tubular batteries. I have been using it like this for over 1 year and specific gravity is still good on all cells. Increasing the amps helped with using heavy loads like microwave and inverter ac as with the initial C20 limit, you can't run those loads while battery is charging. The only disadvantage for now is smell of the hydrogen and increased rate of topping up battery water of 2 months interval which is OK by me. If batteries die, then lithium it is. But for now I'm liking my tubular with increase charging amps

Conner44:


You get the jerk lol if you allow someone that doesn’t know how to drive it smoothly handle the car for a week all your engine and gearbox mounts go break because of that yeye jerking

Left for me I’d just pay small workmanship to bring down the gearbox and clean all the solenoids than doing the transmission fluid change 3 times.

Cleaning the solenoids gives a 100% solution to the problem (so far the mechanic is competent) but the transmission fluid change is a slow process and can be effective 70% of the time in curing the issue.

Lol very frustrating. Infact out of anger I didn't shift properly and the jerk destroyed my cv joint. No check engine light, no d light flashing, no transmission codes. Infact I'm sure I intentionally spoilt the transmission just to get rid of the jerk by pouring in lucas transmission fix. Transmission packed up about a year later. I'm sure the transmission would still move if I'd taken the oil out but I just wanted a new transmission and went that route

Conner44:


One of your solenoid screens is almost plugged up because of dirty or old transmission fluid. The bad news is that the affected solenoid is not one of the two switches visible and easily accessible on the external part of your gearbox but the culprit is actually one of the other D, E or F solenoids INSIDE the gearbox housing itself.

To take care of the issue you’d have to drain out all yiur transmission fluid and drop your gearbox then open the casing to be able to reach the affected one to clean it up properly. Also don’t forget to clean your transmission oil filter while you’re in there.

Or

You can do your transmission drain and fill THREE TIMES to try and flush out the debris blocking the screen of the affected solenoid. Remember to use original atf dw1 fluid in your transmission.

Your luck is that this issue isn’t one that can grenade your gearbox because people have driven with the same symptoms for years without their gearbox packing up. It’s just the discomfort of always checking your rpms and lifting your foot to change the gear from 1 to 2 that’s the hassle plus the fact that you can’t zoom off from a stop light smartly because of it.

Lol I remember having this issues for years until I changed the transmission when other faults developed. I was the only one that knows how to "shift" gently to avoid the jerk

VALtech:
they are dead but still very useful oo. A real 200ah dead battery can go as high as 30k

Useful for what? That's the question. I know some will refurbish them and sell as second hand.
There may be other uses

abilityC:
my inverter was delivered yesterday by fedex, but the seller sent a 48v 5kw version instead of the 24v 3.5kw version now im confused and starting to reconsider my battery pack design...

Congratulations?

Mofetemi:


so also i am considering as d cons following d steam deck are not cool to me at all. Which pc did now settle for in terms of specs

An rtx 3060 or 3070. I'm looking at gigabyte aorus 15p kd as that's what my bro uses.

Mofetemi:


Namzy, has your Valve Steam Deck been delivered sequel to your reservation?

Decided to get a gaming pc instead

justmide:
Pls I want to get 500w inverter and the ba3 for now, cos of money, I won't be getting the solar panel yet...... can I go ahead? I just want to store energy to power my home for longer when they take light. I'm powering a 43 inch led TV
6 5w bulbs
Charge a phone and laptop
A 50w fan. Standing fan. Can I carry on? Location Ibadan

Yes if you have light everyday for charging

isangjohnson:


You mean you're using 340w x 8 panels (2720w) to charge 2 luminous batteries?
I'm trying to imagine the type loads you use during the day that will be limiting the charging power of your batteries. Excess power/overcharge of the batteries is my concern here.
Please, let me know your logic.

I oversized my panels for the rainy day. I know I'll be wasting power on some days but I can live with that. I'm saving up for lithium batteries. Using my hydrometer my 3 year old batteries are still healthy as the lowest percentage I've discharged them to is 70%

Bolatitodavies:
where can i get one please?

I got it from AliExpress. I think its been sold on konga too but you pay more.

Bolatitodavies:
please how do i know my batteries are full aneg? the battery capacity or how please?

I have a battery monitor fangpusun bmv 700 that tells me when my battery is full

Bolatitodavies:
im not sure i use 700watts all at once, im sure of the 115watts freezer and some lights, 30 watts fan and a 75"tv(110 watts). Thats all. but the freezer is always on which i will get a timer for it on monday...but what im asking is how many watts should 6x350watts panels generate in 1pm sun? whats should be the average wattage shown on the charge controller for 6x350 watts pannels? I didn't buy the panels myself, it was bought by a so-called installer. the batteries are barely 4mths 220ah luminous batteries.

For my 340W*8 panels using same felicitysolar mppt I get about 1.3 kw in the afternoon. My soalr panels are very very dirty as it has not rained since last year October or November. Since my load is about 300w to 500w, I have not bothered cleaning the panels as the generated watts is sufficient. During raining season, I know I have hit about 2kw when the microwave and other loads were switched on. The major problem I've seen with felicitysolar mppt is it takes many seconds to switch from float to bulk and during that time the how power is been drawn from the batteries

Bolatitodavies:
i use luminous 4kva/48v inverter. my installer recommended the felicity ooo. i don wan dey vex for am sef. i pray it doesnt damage my batteries already. Ok i will let the solar run the charge tomorrow and get back

I use felicity too, and my batteries get fully charged although my setup is 24v with 2 luminous batteries and 340w x 8 solar panels. I'm still waiting for an adapter I bought to fully check if felicity can track daily harvest since its a clone of Pcm60x and has a RS232 port hidden inside the unit (not mentioned in the manual)

ceaser:


And another queation. Two variants are available.
1. Inverter plus Mains
2. Mains plus Generator.

But in my case, as I don't have mains into the building, the options I have are Inverter and Generator. So the two usage scenarios required for me are "Inverter - Generator" and "Inverter - Inverter"

But in the attached picture, it is clearly stated that "generator should not be connected to the inverter".

So wetin man go do ó?

Although I also wonder if that statememt is about the terminals (generator output not to be connected to the inverter terminals), rather than the switch variant. The Chinese seller because of language barrier I guess, does not understand my question and therefore has been unable to give satisfactory reply.

Maybe I'm wrong, but I believe It's just changeover between two live sources. I don't understand the discrimination between gen or mains.

ceaser:
Good morning folks. Just a little advice needed.

It's an Automatic Transfer Switch. Switching speed touted to be less than 8 milliseconds. I aim to get two units. One unit for the main building power transfer between main inverter and generator. The second unit for transfer between main unit inverter and modular standalone inverter for two freezers (both served by the same modular solar set up).

In the options, there are 63amps, 100amps and 125amps which are all of the same price. Of course, I don't see myself hitting the 125 amps draw point in a residential building; I expect that range to be attainable in a factory.

Is it okay if I go the 100amp option or the modest 63amp option or kúkúmá get the 125amps?

My worry is that if I get a value higher than what I require, the excess ceiling may compromise/defeat protection function when it is critically needed. Am I right?

If same price go for the highest amps and install a different overcurrent protection device eg a circuit breaker

earthrealm:


after charging the battery full, with the button on the far left...then switch it to pulse/repair mode-- button on the far right...you would be hearing or feeling a pulse or ticking sound..every 3 to 10 secs...to show its working.

foxsur is the original manufacturer.....others are fakes/copycats...................who knows if they are as effective as foxsur

Foxsur is not the original manufacturer. Its a Chinese product that anyone can slap their label on

airsaylongcome:


No, I don't think that a 300W Solar panel is generating 23% of 300W. My understanding is that is is generating 23% of the total solar energy it receives

This assumption is also wrong. I explained it. Lemme try explaining it again. Efficiency means size to power ratio. Imagine you have 2 solar panels with dimensions 1 meter length by 1 meter width, both have same length and width but one is rated 300w and another is rated 400w. The one rated 400w is more efficient that's it. It has nothing to do with power production. It's just that the company found how to squeeze extra power without increasing the length and width of the 400w panels. So given limited roof space, you will be better off installing the 400w since it's the same size as 300w but you gained extra 100w for the same solar panel dimensions. So if the 300w is rated 18% efficient, the 400w will now be rated about 20 or 22% efficient. Typical solar panels are 18% efficient. Manufactures are trying to find ways to increasing it, leading to newer half cut solar panels. That's why you can now see a solar panel with 500w and above with same dimensions as 350w

airsaylongcome:


I understand that. Now imagine getting a gen that is 23% efficient. Or a car that is 23% efficient for whatever fuel you put in. That's scandalous. I'm not saying 23% efficiency for solar isn't excellent. I'm saying compared to other sources of energy, 23% returns for input provided is horrible. But at the very least I'm still getting electricity to meet most of my daily energy needs so its okay for me.

With this your explanation you still don't understand what 23% efficiency means. I don't know how else to explain it. It does not mean that the solar panel will produce 23% of its rated power. Most solar panels will produce about 80% of its rated capacity. If solar panels only produced 23% of its capacity no one will be using solar panels worldwide. I went ahead to explain what the efficiency rating stated on solar panels specs means but you still think it means it will produce 23% of its rated capacity

airsaylongcome:


The problem is that solar panels are not very efficient converting solar to electricity. The best you can get is 23% efficiency which is very bad to be honest. But considering the free availability of solar and potential cost of petrol in the new year, it makes a lot of sense to tap whatever you can from solar.

My own worry is that make state or federal governments no go dey bill people for owning solar panels like Lagos was planning to bill people for boreholes

I hope you understand what 'efficiency' means when talking about solar panels? Because 23% efficiency is very very good. The efficiency stated on the solar panels is not how many watts they can produce. But means the power to size ratio. In simple English it means if 2 panels are exactly the same dimensions and one panel is rated 300w while the other is rated 400w, the later panel can produce more watts with same form factor hence more 'efficient'. Most good panels produce 80% and above of their capacity when installed properly.

Horrible

ewizard1:


2 or 3hrs of operation?

Lol I was suprised too.

guente02:
Hello house.

So i got 2x 24v 150ah blue carbon lifepo4 batteries both connected in series to my 48v 5kva hybrid inverter. The problem now is that it seems that one of the batteries depletes fast than the other, I'm getting a voltage difference of up to 0.4v. I reached out to my installer and he came and hooked up one active battery balancer like but its doubt its doing a good job of keeping packs balanced.

To the experienced guys in the room, how do I fix this issue? The setup is still brand new and if this persist, I plan calling the installer to get me a replacement because I suspect both batteries aint got the same capacity.

Cheers

You'd have to state your load and current run time

chris81964:

Yes. I was using them up until Friday.

He's indirectly saying the price is too steep for used panels.

ojesymsym:
Thanks for your response. However, Fangpusun BMV-702 is not turning up when searched on aliexpress.

US $42.07 | Battery accessories BMV700 or 702
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNVC0YO

If there's no circulation, the ischaemia, necrosis and gangrene will result in loss of said hand. But I can't see any necrosis, which means he rests the hand while asleep

Primary school head boy?

ojeysky:


Felicity works fine but when it comes to price(powmr wins), performance(same but I tend to think powmr is more rugged) and features I will do powmr.

What extra features does powmr have over felicity. I'm interested. The only downside since I use felicity is it takes time switching back to bulk from float {literally 0 watts reading for about 7 secs} which sometimes causes my low voltage disconnect to kick in. Also the charging parameters takes time to get it right because of the constant time setting for absorption which can over charge or under charge your batteries

ojeysky:


If you find epever go for that instead. I will pick a powermr cc over a Felicity CC both for price and performance

Why the hate?

lasthero:
Total cost:

Battery : 85k
Solar panel : 30k
Inverter : 35k

Total: 150,000 naira.

I bought wires 2k

Making 152,000.

My observations so far
It takes 5 to 8 hours of sunshine to charge the battery from 0 to 100% depending on the sunlight intensity.

And guess what guys. When all the house load are on it, it lasted me up to 8 hours to use up a single charge. But when I put of the fridge, the 45watt fan and when my laptop isn't in use, it takes more than 12 hours and that's exactly what I needed.

Burning 8 to 12 hours on petrol daily will send me back to my village.


Thanks for coming to my Ted talk

Running your battery flat will only lead to change of battery in a couple of months. Lead acid batteries are not meant to be fully discharged, at most 50% if you want to be using that battery in the nearest future