₦airaland Forum

JustCryptos:
Ceejay80s. First, I want to appreciate you for opening this thread and your efforts.

We did business over 3 years ago. You helped me to purchase my entire DIY unit comprising of UPS, 30amp smart charger, and a 200ah battery. I used that unit for about 2 years before the battery packed up.

Ceejay80s and to all the gurus in the house, I'll like to know what kind of setup 500k will give me.

Note: There's no electricity in the area I'll be relocating to. So, I'll be leaving 100% off grid until more people start living there.

What I intend to power. 1 deep freezer, 1 standing fridge freezer, 5 wall mounted fans, 2 LED TV sets, 1 1200w iron, and general LED house lighting.

Priority goes to my fridge, freezer and house lighting.

Please, I'll love experts in the house to help me. I'll also like to ask. I am yet to wire the house. Is there any need to do a separate wiring for solar and another for NEPA?

Thanks in advance.

I have a set-up for less than that amount but working with your 500k plan:

200AH X2 lead acid battery: 200k
Inverter hybrid 24v 2kva: 120k
Solar panel 380w X 3: 140k
Cable, battery lock, etc: 40k

Caveat: It certainly won't power all those stuff you've listed simultaneously. At the minimum you want to remove iron from the list

earthrealm:
This your Sorotec is a beast, wonder why peeps never buy am. The inverter make brain

We were waiting for you to put money on it, really anyone that wants a MPP like features they will get it on that sorotec so I certainly recommend it to anyone shopping for a 24v hybrid that has muscle to carry up to 4.5kw PV

Penuelseun:
That's the dc input, the camera didn't capture the dc output side

That's right actually I didn't pay attention to that part, so can @mctfopt provide the charger section so we know whether it still retains its name tag

ceaser:
Bàbá I guess you have opened up, probably nearly tinkered, with your pack.

My brother no time o.

Me I want his one year warranty to elapse before I start toying with that thing. The stickers covering some screws are still intact.

I'm actually considering negotiating with him when I want to finally get the 48v online. Sending the 24v to him and asking him to either couple more cells to make 48v or him outrightly using new cells for a new 48v at an extra token while he keeps the 24v pack.

He can be flexible so long as na win win arrangement

I have got 2 brand new BMV 712 with temp sensor for grabs. 125k each

Q/A
Is this the victron BMV 712 with Bluetooth features?
Yes
Is the price negotiable?
No price is firm Sir/Ma
Does the price include shipping?
No it doesn't, but I can waybill to any part of the country at buyer's cost.

mctfopt:
Rocket fast charging

250A charging ? Okay you rightly described it.

issy1500:
I'm my case, the normal charging of the Inverter is 10A and the fast charging is 16A. There is button you would have to press if you want the fast charging option which would charge the batteries 16A. Once the batteries are fully charged, the inverter cuts off charging.

The charging rate also varies on the charge level of batteries. As the batteries become full, the charging rate/Amp reduces until the battery become full so that the batteries does not overheat.

As a matter of fact, the inverter has a screen display where you can see and monitor all operations. You will clearly see the batteries charging rate, status, power input, power output e.t.c

The bolded is why I said it's simply marketing gimmick, there is noting fast about the charging it's just yet another charge rate that they now labelled fast. My inverter does up to 80A charging so shall we call mine fastest charging

funken:
@ojeysky pls who sold your lithiums to you?
@ceaser you can also tell me too. Should I dm you or is it something you can share here? did they come with BMS or its something you had to add yourself?

It's been shared a couple of times 80 three 06 three 3202. They come with Daly BMS but I adviced him to start using manageable BMS so you can ask him specifically for the ones coupled with those kind of BMS, ofcourse expect a higher price quotation if you want that.

issy1500:
I have a similar set-up (1.6KVA - 24V) and I added 2 more batteries and it all cool.In my case my inverter has fast charging and power is relatively stable too at least 8-10hrs a day.

I was scared that the Inverter might not be able to fully charge the 4 batteries optimally, so I bought a 50Amp smart charger to support the charging excercise. The 50Amp charger is just there without being put to use because the inverter does the charging perfectly for now.

In my opinion, your inverter should charge the batteries if equiped with fast charging and you do have light for not less than 8-10 hours a day. Though the charging time required for the batteries to get fully charged will be a bit extended.

I think this is probably a marketing term, it's all about the max charge capacity of the inverter and the charge rate you are applying on your batteries. Someone posted a huge inverter in previous thread and the maximum charge it could do was 16A. Some inverters within the 2-5kva range can do up for 120A combined charging. My inverter does 80A but there is nothing about fast added to it's charging features so if your battery is not charging properly and you are sure it's not the battery giving up the ghost then you need to check your inverter charging capacity

iykmon:
My inverter trips when senses high load once an inductive load as low as 10w is started. The inverter is rated for 3000w. The product name is Power system. I start noticing this problem since i started using my washing machine on the inverter. Now any little load ,it will sense it as high low and trip. Sometimes the cooling fan won't cut out even after the load has been switched off.
By design once there is a high load on the inverter, it will automatically starts the fan to cool and cut off the fan once the load is removed. But what is happening now is that the fan will remain and don't stop.
Has any one experience such before so i can think of what to do to rectify it.

My normal operational load on the inverter is below 15% load and maximum is around 20-25%.

This is because the washing machine has an Heater that comes on for a few minutes and that could be up to 2kw depending on your machine capacity, mine is about 1.75kw when I was using lead acid my inverter surely trips, the reason for this is that the surge makes the battery voltage to deep below the set cut off voltage on your inverter. A few options:
1. Reduce your cut off voltage to minimum when you want to use the washing machine and hopefully that will be sufficient
2. Adjust the washing machine not to have heating, normally if I set mine to 30degree the heater does not kick and all is well.
3. Considering upgrading to LFP yes with such batteries you have better shock absorber to withstand the load and inverter should not trip

earthrealm:
Still trying to get a hang of the lifepo4 battery.
So which is preferable for an amateur, buying single cells & building a bank, or buying a ready made bank.

2ndly which is preferable, bank made up of say 48 units 3.2v x 100ah cells or 16 units 300ah cells.

Is Rs 485 port critical,
if yes Does the RS 485 only need to know the current and voltage of battery pack ?or it need to connect with inverter?

Lastly, CATL and green power cells, which is preferable?.
Basic research favours CATL, however i want firsthand reviews

A lot have been said already; an amateur should certainly certainly go for ready made, while DIY amateur like you and I can couple their cells. I suggest getting the bank from the person I got mine from, it's a good way of starting and learning the connection in a DIY way (the pack can be easily opened).

I will suggest that the more fewer cells the better so if it's a single 300AH cells then go for 16 of those. The ANT BMS has a Bluetooth option for Comms. In terms of brand, well.....China is still the best source for bad and good cells as they are most experienced with lithium. Sinopoly, CATL(if you need a strong enclosure) are fine. Mine are Eve prismatic cells and they perform well.

I was more about 2x12= 24v in a 24v system. It will be good to hear your experience with that scenario as I don't think there should be significant deviation if the batteries are of similar chemistry and history

mcTrinity:
Hi Ojeysky,

I also used to think same. Some years back, I carried out an experiment on a client's [b]24V 400Ah Battery Bank Consisting of 4# 12V 200Ah Batteries... [/b]All batteries are of same age (both year and month). The system was installed without a Balancer, but with DC voltmeters.

And all batteries were independently charged to float before installation.

3 days later, he called my attention to deviation among the 2 lower batteries (based on rack design; 2 batteries were up and 2 down). The observation was that during absorbtion charge, the 2 lower batteries always deviate by up to 0.5V (one reading 14.6V and the other 14.1V) and the upper 2 deviating by 0.2V (one reading 14.4 and the other 14.2V)... Meanwhile, the CC Absorbtion Charge voltage was set to 28.8V.

I told him after few cycles, they should normalize.... But, after 3 weeks, still same. All batteries reads same during bulk/boost charge; but once it enters absorbtion, the deviation kicks in. And stays like that until Float and all reading are same again. Even during inverting, battery readings are same.

See, if that system was left like that, overtime, that deviation would become more pronounced and eventually becomes irredeemable.

At first, I added HA02 to only the lower batteries. During Absorbtion, the lower batteries reads same.. Except the upper ones. After monitoring for another 3 days, I added to the top ones.
It's 4 years now, and the batteries are all still reading same at every point in time... Well, sometimes, according to the client, there's deviation of just 0.1V...
Over the last 4 years I've know about Balancer, I can't remember installing any battery (24V or 48V system) for client, that I purchased myself, without a Balancer... Except the client purchased the batteries himself.

And for both 24V & 48V system, I use the HA02 Balancer

Any battery connection, as long as it's series-connection, is prone to unbalance.

However, it should be noted that Battery Balancer MUST be installed at the initial period of battery installation.. It doest NOT aid failing batteries

But for me, I strongly believe it works... Depends on whether you buy from a reliable source or from Alaba

ceaser:
Well, I like to use the web for controls too, but the problem of security is not something I wanna have to battle with. Even the security cams that I have installed only cover the premises, not inside the house as much as I would have loved to.

Security is sure a concern but there are ways to reduce that which is by isolating and putting your critical/sensitive tools behind access rules (firewall). For instance the IP cameras in the room could be denied access to the internet while they keep doing that important job of surveillance (though that also require getting a non internet dependent cams)

That is why I resort to using switches over GSM network providers. I may not have the privilege of continuous monitoring like it is with raspberry pi mini computers connected to the internet and stuff but at least I get to throw a few switches with phone calls and DTMF tones, SMS communication/control and get replies for status monitoring.

I think this is safer from hackers.

That's is also some form of network you know

sirLeeem:
Hi, I have this used mopower fusion series 3.5kva/48V inverter for sale.

As big as it is just 16A charge....na wa o

adrusa:
Actually, once you are connected to the internet, you are open to some risks. But, internet has become so important that the fear of intrusion shouldn't stop anyone from exploiting whatever it has to offer. One just need to practice commonsense security. Good passwords. Some firewalls, especially on the WAN side and avoid using your home network for storing anything critical. Though I try to protect my network, but I doubt if any intruder will find anything useful to other than switching on or off a few of my switches.

Even Tasmota also has an internet interface through which you can do OTA updates. And not connecting to the internet will deny you the ability to remotely login and control your system. And that is a major icing on the cake for me. I can remotely start charging with NEPA if the sun is not good enough. I can check to make sure that my water has pumped. I can even shutdown the TV when my children are spending too much time with. The possibility is endless.

Absolutely Bro, thanks for talking about sonoff as that was what Ignited my curiosity. Now my freezer is permanently on and automatically turns off/on according to the status of my battery. Lots of possibilities with IOT. The reality is that if you want to enjoy automation with remote features one should not be scared of the internet, just be sure to isolate things as much as possible.

litaninja:
Heehee. Not quite same. With a mail client, you open a connection, fetch your mails and close same. For most devices control, a tunnel is open and same can be exploited to gain access to your internal network.
And if the internet is down, well...even a VPN won't help. Lol

You are right mail may not be the best example, a third-party social media app may be a better example, but I should note that it connects securely (https) through the api to the eWelink server, that's the situation that my eWelink app on my phone will be anyway.
Ultimately it's not the best solution but it works for me until a time when I have enough motivation to flash tasmota

litaninja:
Late response here, but do you actually want to go via the internet? I'm guessing you're going through some form of public cloud? Personally, I don't like having a public cloud service open a tunnel the way most are wont to do.
Flashing Tasmota & going via MQTT keeps it local, and if you do need external access, i'd recommend some form of vpn to be setup. Just keeps you in charge completly.

Not just any cloud, I needed to connect to my eWelink Account, it's same thing I would have done on my phone if I needed to configure the default sonoff basic. It's the same thing you and I are doing when we connect to our mail service through a client (e.g phone app)

That said, I probably will flash tasmota in future but that will be to address situation where my internet connection is down.

earthrealm:
Wow, nice one.
Whats the make of the balancer?...ha01 or ha02?
Perhaps you touched both ends together inadvertantly
@ojeysky, could you explain why balancer isnt needed for 2 battery in series

Since it's just 2 cells of 12v of same life history in series without multiple Ps or Ss(e.g 48v) involved I don't see the need for a balancer in such a scenario; both ends of the charger terminates on either sides of the 2 batteries in case of 24v so I don't see why there should be an unbalance in such a scenario if everything is fine with the 2 batteries.

It's a matter of choice though but I don't see the advantage except that there may be a disadvantage in the case of a balancer that is failing.

essegis:
Thanks bro.

In my search I saw some devices e.g. Sense. They had little clamp on meters where they get the current from and use that to do power and energy calculations. Looks like with you guys systems this is already settled with a BMV right?

I don go store your reply sharply oo. Remote monitoring has become a must for me as e be like say I don too dey disturb madam to go check things.

Yeah there is BMV in the mix of my set-up, that's where I get reliable SOC of my battery

ojesymsym:
I guess one would need to also invest in that switch that is so able to respond to command instructions right?

Yup, I got the sonoff basic at 5.5k each, it's cheaper if you are buying in bulk and each of them has 2.2kw capacity so you can put suitably sized multiple load on a switch.

Barezzi:
@NiyiOmoIyunade
This was taken yesterday morning.
It's quite interesting what one can do with emoncms and the plethora of data from my Victron inverter.

I'm going to add night and daytime energy consumption to decide which heavy loads i reaaaallly need to transfer to the Critical Loads DB
Night time = 5pm to 7am (currently averages 15kWh with one aircon on)
Daytime = 7am to 5pm (averages 15kWh as the Heavy Loads DB is currently off due to ongoing renovation works)

Cool, emoncms is a fantastic tool and recently I started playing with node-red on my pi3+ to automate some of my loads based on battery SOC.

That said @essegis if setting all these up from scratch sounds daunting. You may go the faster route below:

1. Acquire a pi3+ or pi4
2. Get a minimum of 32GB SD card (preferably class10 upwards)
3. Head to IC software dot co dot za to download the trial version of the ICC and if you like it, you can pay for a licence key.

The ICC software has a lot of stuff including emoncms already pre-installed and according to their documentation, it's compatible with victron and axpert inverters.

Valueinvestor:
Just send them an e mail stating the amount you want to withdraw

Oh perhaps that's one of meristem's strength, with their app you can withdraw easily. I am surprised Morgan does not have such option?

OBAGADAFFI:
Lol, from the store

He stole 1000(cash)
Bought goods worth 700
Collected change of 300(cash)


The store owner lost
N1300 in cash
N700 worth of goods

Yes if he stole the 1k from the store

saint2ace:
I have a prag 2.5kva inverter and 2 150ah Ritar batteries connected in series, but I've noticed a large gap in voltage on both batteries. When fully charged but with grid power on, one reads 14.22v while the other reads 13.45v.

When load is put on it there's almost a 3v difference as I've noticed one go below 10v while the other is still on 12.45v.

I have a 24v balancer hooked up to the system and both batteries are brand new, same batch and production dates.

What could be responsible, cos I've never since this before, but when separated each battery charges to 14.5v and maintains a relatively good voltage but when put together the wahala starts......

Why do you need a balancer on 2x12v batteries in series for a 24v system? I fear that may be the source of the pro.

dollarnaira:
It is an old myth for ancient batteries. Nowadays batteries can rest on any foor without self discharge.

Google it for further info

It's not about self discharge, it's about varying temperature of the battery and placing it off the floor will reduce that possibility.

ojeysky:
12v Lifepo4 chargers, balancers, 4s smart BMS and ANT BMS, still available

Still available

abbeymighty:
Pls which application can I downloads on my PC to use in monitoring my mppt controller via network port.

You first need to confirm if your CC has com port to retrieve log

ceaser:
Yeah, I know you have that LFP/Li-ion BMS. But na shikini 30amp I'm in need of.

Thanks.

Sorry I think I missed this, I do have 4s 25/35A smart BMS with Bluetooth (LFP/li-ion )

ojesymsym:
Are you watching the economics of your constant fiddling or is the renewable addition stronger than the need to watch the ROI?

Haven't really fiddled with my storage at all, the upgrade will be the first and hopefully the last storage upgrade for many years to come. My current 200AH is not sufficient for my needs, especially for storage on days sun is smiling. Nevertheless, trust me am keeping one eye opened on the economics part o

mank1234:
Pls share the contact again.

0 eight 03 063 3202 Dan is the name. Would have some LFP for sale when am done with my planned upgrade

earthrealm:
So i have a bunch of questions.

1. Lg and haier T, which of their inverter ac is beta .. i hv 1hp lg happy with ots chilling, however the consption jumped to 670w in gen mode and upto 950w normal mode after the compressor failed and was replaced under warranty

I have posted a lot about my GenPal on various genmode levels, so I got to use and observe the turbo today and noticed the difference is that instead of ramping up gradually as with genmode, it starts from peak power. I have a friend that uses lg gencool and in terms of performance I didn't notice a difference though he does not have a metre so I could not observe consumption.
That said, I hear that gencool starts from peak downward, I would certainly not be happy if my GenPal does that.

2. Any 12v inverter with battery selector switch, or editable charge voltage setting?

3. Any lifepo4 seller inhouse, no time to import. Am looking at 300ah 48v. Performance of my fla has reduced drastically. Planning an upgrade

Have you reached out to my contact that I shared earlier? I bought the current one am using from him

4. Lowest price standing fan, dont care if its not rechargeable.

Would have said you should come for my fushiai but "lowest price" is not friends with that fan . The qasa fans are quite cheap and it works, I replaced them with fushiai and could sell to you but I guess distance would make it not to be a worthwhile venture.

zinodizt:
A fully charged battery at 4:30 pm with my charge controller reading 100% and as at 7:30 it drops to 70%... with the inverter switched off... is the battery bad... I use a 12v 200ah single battery hooked to two panels....

How did you determine the drop to 70%? if you had load on then that won't give you accurate information. It's also possible that your battery is not fully charged when you think it was, one way to check is to isolate charging when your inverter reports 100% and then confirm if it's same 100%.

It's also possible that your inverter is consuming a lot on idle though should not be over 30% in 3hrs