₦airaland Forum

Easiest way I can think of right now is to shunt your busbar with a dc WiFi shunt meter.

FEGEITOK:
Solar people, I need help.

Like many of us, I bought a "dumb" inverter. It works, but it tells me nothing beyond what is happening point-in-time. It does not record what my panels actually produce, nor can I access previous logs.

My setup: two Powmr MPPT charge controllers (max PV array Voc 105 V each) feeding a shared battery bank, plus the hybrid inverter's own internal controller (max PV array Voc 85 V), which goes straight into the inverter.

My question: is there a device I can install between the panels and the charge controller that will log production for me? I already know that with three separate PV inputs, a full house total means three separate devices. That is the part I am weighing.

What triggered this: I recently installed a WiFi circuit breaker to meter the power I share with my neighbour, and the visibility has been eye opening. Now I want that same visibility for every circuit in the house. Honestly, I don't know how I have been flying blind all this while.

Extra question for the experts: with three PV inputs, is the smarter move three separate meters, or should I be metering the battery bus instead and living with a slightly lower number?

Or should I forget production entirely and just meter the load side, in which case the WiFi breakers would serve me very well?

Anybody with better knowledge, abeg help a brother out.

What did you do on/with your setup?

Close to a year

justasitis:
Ok brother, how long have you been using the hybrid inverter.

It's cylinderical

dollarnaira:
You need to confirm the form factor of the cells used--- prismatic or cylindrical. Check if it has a bms too. Do these and revert.

Nothing is going to happen to the mppt because no parameter was exceeded... the panels are original. It is jinko 590w monofacial.

justasitis:
This is because your inverter is pulling everything it could get from your two panels just to charge your battery and
your location is a contributing factor to the high yield. If you continue to stress your hybrid inverter to charge your battery with those two panels this way, the inbuilt MPPT won’t last long. I also doubt if your panels are actually 590W since they are both generating 100v because even 650w has actual VoC.of about 50v.

24v system

Gshems:
It's this a 12v system? you also use the grid?

@justasitis

You might be right but I disagree, my hybrid is 500v voc but I have 2units of 590w jinko (100v) and I get good yield from them and as much as 1.05kwp in peak sunlight

justasitis:
No doubt, there will be a great improvement in the energy yield. It’s what i know and understand about hybrid inverters. For you to harvest a good energy yield, your PV must be at least 50% of the Max PV. Once the PV input is adequate enough, your loads will determine how the inverter will pull more energy from the panels with respect to the intensity of the sunlight.

Get the maximum panels your mppt can take leaving room for small headroom.

Bruteality1:
You're on point. The highest is 162v. Are you saying if I get 2 more panels I'll get maximum PV yield from the panels? What if I add 3 more 615w panels

At what system voltage are generating this? What is the orientation of your panels?

Valentinooo:
I was at the shop yesterday, though it was cloudy but I was able to take small video at peak sunlight. Generation was hovering between 4.29 to 4.31kw

I can't upload the video here, but here is a sc

cc:
Paschal007
Gshems

From my research, the old LCD durability are worth draining out every last penny from them and when the backlight is reduced,they suddenly compete with the newer techs in power consumption

Gshems:
Boss you no lie. I reduced my TV back light to the middle. A TV tasted 150w only using 55w.

Before you buy a new TV, please lower the backlight of your current LCD TVs and check the result. Your answer might be the best investment wise in the long run, 6 TVs no be joke

jFrankNorfleet:
Anyone knows good TV brands that are extremely low consumption TV? Preferably 32 inches for my gamehouse. I want to buy 6 pcs to change all the PS3 Tvs as I'm presently using LCDs that are 140 watts which are not inverter friendly

Never say never, if surge from lightning pass through the AC line , things go sup

favouredbymercy:
Bros, i kid you not. Since i dey remove am, surge nor dey enter from grid anymore. That was d only solution that works, taking change over to neutral alone doesnt work for it.

Remind me , what's the distance between the contacts of your cutout fuse?

favouredbymercy:
From that 5w bulb that died, it is obvious the thunder passed through the grid line into your house. I always say that grid is always d weak link of solar systems. I advice you put AC spd on both your input and output of your systems. And when it rains with thunders, REMOVE YOUR CUT OUT FUSE if you are connected to grid. I never fail to do such, cause thunder always passes through our grid lines when it thunders over here.

Sorry about that baba, protection does not save you from a direct strike

SourYoghurt:
the sky is bright and clear but it's still not charging, or showing signs of charging but supplying power. I used "tester" screwdriver with led to check the two wires coming directly from the roof into the breaker, no sign of current and I am electrophobic I'd have touched the wire. I went outside and saw some of the wire that was used in the connection exposed, I mean on the roof.

The thunder were very very significant that I have a 5w bulb to know if there's grid, thunder kee am.

And the house is earthed and the thunder arrestor is standing like a Vatican church, so na waste of money


cc: Oloet dollarnaira

SourYoghurt:
the kind thunder wey just fire for Edo Central, I hope my inverter didn't fall victim, I put off the breakers before it started and shut the system down, I put it on now and it hasn't pick up to start charging, not even the indicator to show 0w is coming on on the screen. .

I'll be updating this.

how far

Opistorincos:
Is it Restar?

no baba

osayuwamwen:
what brand of inverter are you using

Baba I don't want to give them promotion, the inverter is running on bloated software so they deserve to be mentioned. Imagine an inverter that you can't set the low voltage disconnect

osayuwamwen:
you think say I they buy things anyhow I dey do proper research before spending my hard earned money on anything to burst yr bubble this battery total capacity is 8.38kwh according to the manufacturer but capacity test on YouTube show is actually more than what is stated

That's good to hear, what cell brand is inside

You won't get any alarm when you eventually have a fault please live with it

fuckboys:
same with the Haisic inverter, it beeps when mppt connects and disconnects from the pv.

I swear most of these inverters are just the same thing with different clothing.

Just go to your settings and turn on silent mode

osayuwamwen:
8kwh

You sure say no be 7.2kwh🤣

Never say never, my 4.2kw inverter's fan is not always on but when it comes on, hell will break loose

osayuwamwen:
I said the fan is always on but it is temperature controlled and it is not noisy like Most inverter, the hotter it get the more noisy it becomes.... I'm in a 3bed room apartment and the inverter is installed almost directly opposite the door of my room and when in my room I don't hear a thing as compare to the other famicare inverter I once used when nor they lemme sleep, I don't tink you will see any hybrid inverter that the fan ls not always on you will only get that in sachet inverter

🤣🤣🤣

Unfaized:
I think it's unfair to berate a user for trying out a product whether cheaper or not. To set the record straight, I still use the Dayo but no complaint & I believe other users do too. Maybe his was just a case of a faulty unit or with further troubleshooting can be resolved.

That being said, yesterday I tested the Maxi Vs Dayo 'Heat focus' and guess what they're basically the same size

I disagree from practical experience using another brand of induction never mentioned on this thread but I no get strength to argue.

Unfaized:
After usage for a while I think it's important to put this out there;
Induction cooker is great, but not a replacement for gas or infrared. From personal experience, the only major advantages are energy saving and almost zero heat in your kitchen.

The heat (Citing Dayo), is not evenly distributed compared to gas or infrared. It's more focused centrally which is not ideal for some cooking. I understand this is as a result of coil size.

Pot contact surface area to coil size ratio matters for heat distribution and effective cooking, which means different pot sizes will not cook the same.

Stir frying is almost impossible because a shift in contact will result in inefficient cooking.

I have a lot to say but I no get strength. Bottom line is these our portable induction stoves are not superior to the alternatives. Besides energy saving, don't expect magic.

If the center of your pot gets all the heat then that's where your induction coil is located. The heat is supposed to go round the ring and not just the center

codemaster2much:
1000watt will boil rice, but be careful and pay attention, the center part of the pot get all the heat, try stirring at few intervals

If it's a custom made, you can make provision for gutters in your design from onset

Tdoctor:
I salute.
Please what material should I use to prevent water leakage between panels in a solar panel car port?
Bassdows, twinskenny, anyone

They are not the only one waiting for custom since then

adibo:
I guess I will just hold on for fouani den. I wonder why for about three weeks now, fouani is saying their Jinko panels are available but stuck at the custom office. I would have assumed such a big company won't be having issues with customs clearance

Load it up to like what percentage mostly?

HeavenlyBang:
My SRNE 3.3kw has been pretty much rock solid for two years. And I load it up all the time.

ksmart027:
Please can you share the guidance, i also need solution to this.

okay , I will in a bit

I gave an idea on this earlier, you don't need to replace the fans either. You can quote me on a dead thread with your Whatsapp for guidance

fuckboys:
My next line of action is replacing the fans with these fans I ordered along the speed governor

New replacement fan specifications *2
80cm*80cm*10cm
12v 0.13a 1.56w
17.8CMF airflow

The Haisic follow come fan *2
80cm*80cm*25cm
12v 1a 12w
115CMF


I don’t think this can work, the downgrade is too much.

I don't even know how to enter this fan conversation. The fans in inverters with a start and stop function are designed to start at a certain temperature then stop when the temperature gets to a certain value. One way to mitigate the constant on and off noise with the fans without compromising warranty is to attach fans externally, this way, the inverter doesn't get to the temperature to start the internal fans at all. I did this 3 months ago and I am fine with the result

capnies:
All original Sony tvs atleast I know from 40" uses external adopters.

But you'll need boost converter

not all Sony Bravia smart TVs please.

Very good question

dollarnaira:
How do you prevent it from burglar?