₦airaland Forum

Juror:
Ok... do they still sell them anywhere?

I can't say for now

In all these TV saga, one thing is consistent and that is TV's model number is different from the one on the chassis , this issue repeats itself on most issues brought up against alaba sellers, you guys needs to do better , you cannot sell a different model TV number as a direct UK used TV.....

GloriousGbola:
In my old place, one weekend a security guard connected an iron to the ups carrying the office oracle server.

Olago!

Juror:
Can you please share a picture of the cells and what's their Ah rating?

Let me use our local parlance, it is inec blue battery, two of it connected in parallel, it is rated at 480wh, I don't have the picture right now

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Do you have a BMS attached to your battery pack? What is the HVD on your BMS?

When the charger gets the battery pack to 14.6v what is the highest voltage on any 1 cell in the pack?

Are your cells 3.2v nominal?

The answers to these questions will help put your statements in proper perspective.

1: yes, there is a BMS bundled with the battery internally...
2: the HVD is 14.6v as I have always monitor that with a volt meter even though the charger has an indicator that turn to green from red when the battery reaches 14.6
3: I have not measured the cells before as they are all welded together in the pack (bunch of cylindrical lifepo4 batteries)

NiyiOmoIyunade:
There are many types and designs of LFP charger with various charging algorithms.

The problem I highlighted was keeping cells at high voltages for a very long time e.g several days.

A charger that gets to 14.6v for 4 LFP cells plans to take each cell to 3.65v - the cells need to be very closely capacity and IR matched or the BMS set very lax to allow this to happen in practice without one or more cells hitting HVD early and BMS cutting off charge.

You don't want your cells or a few of them hitting HVD on a regular basis so a charger like this should have adjustable voltage so that you can back off from the HVD point (set lower than 14.6v) for your regular charging.

The charger doesn't have an adjustable voltage function, I have been using it like that for 4-5 years now though the lifepo4 are cylindrical in nature

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Be wary of high float voltages for LFP.

For solar charging a high float voltage is okay because there are only limited solar hours in a day but if you are blessed with good supply from the utility spending several days on 27.8v will cause the cells to oxidize internally and slowly lose capacity.

Find a good middle and choose a float voltage that keeps the cells under 3.4v per cell long term after they spend an hour or so in absorb.

Please forgive my ignorance, there are lifepo4 chargers with 14.6v like the one attached, are they likely to spoil the battery too

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Most definitely yes.

Consider that lightning is poweful enough to cross from cloud to object on earth passing through thin air (the air becomes an electrical conductor at such energy levels). Ditto the induced surge in your home wiring can easily arc/jump across the tiny air gap when your breaker contacts are open.

Safe electrical isolators give sufficient space clearance and also sometimes use an insulation barrier to ensure the contacts are truly open. An average home use breaker is not a safe electrical isolator.

Thank you for this submission, I never thought about it this way

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Indeed physically isolating a device from the wall socket or disconnecting the energy source should save it from lightning surge induced damage.

Be aware that opening a PV breaker or any other breaker will not help protect against a surge, a decent surge will jump right across the space between the contacts and do its evil work. When a breaker trips upon impact from lightning induced surge, the surge current already passed through well before the breaker could respond.

You either invest in sufficient lightning protection or physically totally disconnect the device e.g remove both PV cables from CC when a storm is impending

Does this mean that surge can pass through a breaker even if it was switched off before a storm?

Compliant:
Yes I know I dont need stabilizer when connected via inverter, I just want to know the disadvantage of using stabilizer when on inverter and the reason I am asking is that it is not always easy to be putting the stabilizer OFF AND ON

The voltage coming from your inverter is always constant and stable so if you use the stabilizer while you are on inverter, the stabilizer will only add to the loads on your inverter thereby increasing the strain on your battery bank without doing any work per say , the stab consumption is determined by it size and load connected to it... I hope this makes sense


You only need a stab if your grid supply is not stable and this should be connected inline before the inverter (avoid backfeed) ..

Compliant:
Question: expert on inverter, please is it advisable to connect stabilizer while using inverter?

As in, my TV is connected via stabilizer, freezer is connected via another stabilizer, also I fredge with double door is connect to stabilizer.

You don't need a stabilizer for your inverter loads, you only need one when you are connected to the grid

Freech:
I need more info on this lithium battery. There's this one I got Kartel product 200ah 12v, I had to return it for gel. Pls how's ur configuration?

I am interested in this your kartel lithium battery submission

Demurray:
Affordable

Kindly attached the price

olopan:
I'd check for some and revert back.

Kindly remind me incase I am immense in personal activities.

Thank you, I appreciate 🙏

olopan:
You will need an external LVD device that does the job for you, that way you won't have issue waking up the battery.

Please can you connect me with the cheapest one available

olopan:
You will need an external LVD device that does the job for you, that way you won't have issue waking up the battery.

Okay, thank you 🙏

olopan:
Bus as in on the BMS itself or at the charger/inverter side.

Bus on the BMS, the battery's BMS uses same wire for charge and discharge

earthrealm:
A proper setup, Lvd and hvd should primarily be done by the inverter. With the bms being the plan b/fall back.

Using the bms as primary lvd and hvd disconnect is wrong and may lead to present and future troubles.

Eg set inverter Lvd at 3.0v and bms at 2.8v

My inverter is dumb that the BMS shuts down before it, quite sad....

olopan:
If this scenario was to be the case, and your BMS was properly configured to prolong your cell life with recommended settings then only the discharge part of the BMS will go off, while the charge part stays on.

when you need it to charge, it will receive the charges fine.

Does this apply to a BMS that uses same bus for charge and discharge

olopan:
A BMS would completely shutdown in certain conditions, at other times they would keep working.

1. If the charging voltage is high and the cell voltage reaches the cut off voltage then, it will either shutdown or just cut off charging there by making the battery still available for use as only inverter. (i could be wrong, as i have less experience with DIY LITHIUM)

Shutdown as a result of completely drained battery

dacool1:
Thanks.

I was wondering what would happen should BMS shut down in order to protect the battery.

I have this fear too, imagine your battery emptied before the sun comes up

Trippledots:
I thought i was the only one that noticed. Do those pwm even do actual 3 stage charging? From mt experience it doesn't o

Wow! I thought they do, I dislike them sha 🤣

AdexAyanfe:
My people please I need your advise on this inverter setup in a small office and the administrative assistant sits very close to inverter setup. Is it healthy... considering possibilities of radiation and emission of acidic gases. The person sitting besides it do complain of headache most times and heat. 4 tubular batteries were used with 2kva Pure sine wave inverter. Please I will really appreciate your response.

Away from your question, I pray the charge controller doesn't kill the batteries early

Trippledots:
Sweet feeling...

I am coming to pour sand on them 🏃

Dam5reey:
Combine your 44.5v panels until you reach close to 160v of controller

3 x 44.5v is 133.5v, you are good to go!
For MPPT you just have to consider the VOC of the controller to determine how many panels to reach max 90 to 95% of the CC VOC

Thank you for your response, pwm limitation is distorting informations in my mind

Dam5reey:
Basically it depends on number of cells, however you may also use Vmp of the panel to determine the panel voltage.

17V to 19V Vmp is 12V
34V to 38V vmp is 24V
These are most common panels

Does this mean that I cannot use (3) 300w panel with VOC of 44.5v on a 12v system with a mptt controller with max panel input of 160v?

AshipaEk0:
Thank you.

I figured it out after a while

Problem now is that 2 work.fine and the 3rd one it seems when I connect it to the positive AC power I get power in all the connection wires in the wall control.

If I apply a tester all the wires on the wall control light up

Is it that the wall control is bad?

I'm almost certain my AC wire connection is correct. Just positive and negative

Is it that the wall control is bad?

I guess there is a leak somewhere, can't say where in particular

AshipaEk0:
Please give me tips on wiring this AC/DC fan for AC use.

Its rather confusing and the 1 page manual it comes withis not helpful

the connection is divided into 3 section... (section 1 AC-in || section 2 power and control || section 3 DC-in)
it is quite easy but you need to be careful,
section 1> first wire named AC in (220-240v) connects to a power source, this power source is not like our regular connection (loop connection) for ceiling fan, the connection is just like plugging those wires to a socket for power ....

section 2 (middle) > red and black wire (serves as power output to fan) connects directly to the fan's coil red and black wire

> white and yellow wire (serves as control connection) this connects to fan's coil white and yellow wire

section 3 (last) > red and white wire named 12v-in connects to your 12v battery ,


please observe colour code for positive and negative connection
please run the wires one after the other to avoid confusion

contact a competent electrician if you can't wrap your head around my explanation

you can also shoot me a mail oloet@yahoo.com for further assistance

.

Tsuccesssquare:
I actually prefer the standing fan compared to ceiling fan because of my POP. With my new solar system, I intend changing all my traditional standing fan to rechargeable/inverter one.

oh! my bad, I thought everyone is using slate like me

Prince3:
That's not true sir. I have been on many groups that I benefited from that still have WhatsApp group. For example Uber and taxify group. Dog breeders. And many others I don't know of

can I reference any previous discussion from these various WhatsApp group if I join today? your answer should be a closure on this matter

Tsuccesssquare:
Someone mentioned there are Qasa standing fan of just 5watts selling for 33k each. Please are they durable?

Would also appreciate any recommended solar flood light products.

Thank you.

please compare the rechargeable standing fan with their adc ceiling fan to make a good decision