₦airaland Forum

unicmarket:
If you can confirm your batteries where really full
And also you didn’t recently add more loads

It may be your batteries are not so good anymore.

Confirm their strength.

It may also not be so

Please note, your battery also may not be fully charged, this is the most obvious issue

Because for example 4 200 watts panels connected in series to a 24v battery system before and now it’s connected to a 12v system doesn’t mean it’s will supply 800 watts it’s was supplying to charge the 24vdc battery system.

Scc have their configurations, it may only accept the half of the total watts a 24vdc System will accept for a 12vdc.

Then in the long run it’s not charging the battery full.

Confirm your battery is full then run it as before.

And if not, your icell Power Inverter also may need to be checked, to know the charge limit, check I think it can be configured do well to confirm the charge limit.

Either parallel or serial, if a battery bank is full it should perform same way.

Except there are too many losses in the Inverter.

eleojo23:
It applies to every charging source.

With your present connection, first battery will get better charge than the second. But with the balanced Charging diagram, both will get almost equal current during charging so they will charge at the same rate.

eleojo23:
How are the batteries connected to the charging source? Internal resistance can be an issue if not properly connected.
My research shows that the best way to charge batteries in parallel is as shown in the first screenshot below

ojtech8291:
Good afternoon, Everyone. What are the major causes of battery swell up? Thank you.

ojesymsym:
I was carried away with the low power demand of the so called inverter fridge that I did not consider that heat retention is a very important aspect of energy conservation.
I also have a scanfrost but I am also not impressed by it's heat retention, however I have had it for a long while so I guess the newer models will be better especially the one recommended earlier which claims up to 120hrs heat retention.
I will have to go for that then. I thought thermocool were the leaders in fridge/ freezers in Nigeria?

ojesymsym:
Point noted.
Would have been very nice though if they could retain heat a lot more longer

ojesymsym:
Is it just me or has anyone experienced that these inverter fridges block fast and lost their frost also very quickly once they are not powered.

Any good freezer recommendation that is able to retain ice long after power outage?

generalstingz:
Up for grabs.

Felicity 5kva 48V inverter 3 months used

Felicity 2.5kva 24v inveter 3 months used

Felicity lithium pack 200AH 24V 3 months used 4 units
2 with warranty intact and 2 with voided warranty

Client is upgrading

idsolar:
Thanks. Please how much is it going for now?

idsolar:
Good morning my family. please make I disturb you guys with this one. from your experience/usage which car battery better now from range 55 - 60 or so amps and price pls? Nagode.

zeestone99:
If you go back few pages, you will find where this was discussed. A 63amps 250v for example like you said will trip when a 70amps 48v passes through.

zeestone99:
You size appropriately with current involved.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
You are very lucky to not have caused/had a fire boss.

AC breakers should strictly never be used for DC applications - this has been reinforced several times on this thread.

The mechanism of operation (how the breakers make/break contact and handle the resultant arc) is very different between AC and DC breakers.

An AC breaker breaks contact at the zero crossing point (that moment when the AC waveform is moving between positive and negative polarities) whereas in a DC application there is no such zero crossing point since the waveform is essentially flat. The DC breaker therefore has to absorb and extinguish a much larger current arc (think mini explosion).

That is why an AC breaker will soon or ultimately fail if used in a DC application - it is not designed to contain the current arcs (explosions and sparks) that will be produced when making or breaking DC contact.

You really dodged a bullet here. Please do not repeat the experiment as there are good DC breakers cheaply and plentifully available.

For educational purposes, you could try using the common knife switch as a battery breaker or manual disconnect when there are large loads on the DC bus. Notice the huge sparks that result at each point of making or breaking contact You can dissaassemble the knife switch after 10 connects and disconnects and note how the metal contacts have been eaten away by the current arcs. That is what is going on inside your AC breaker if used for DC application.

Breakers respond to changes in current - at 220v, a 1.5hp pump is drawing about ~5 AC amps. You could get by using a 6A to 10A AC breaker on the AC wiring. If this load was running off a 24v nominal system, the DC side is seeing ~45amps so imagine going to use a 10amp AC breaker or even a 60amp AC breaker on the DC cabling, you would soon see that breaker give up under stress and erupt in flames. You would need to grossly oversize an AC breaker to use it safely for DC and even then, it would still not be safe or code compliant.

earthrealm:
Your question isnt complete.1 unit or many units connected in series.??.

Lemme assume many units in series.
The more
Batteries you connect, the major chances of things going wrong. Its best to keep things simple.
Eg 4 units of 12v 200ah batts is preferred than 8 units of 100ah batts, 24 units of 2v cells is even the best option

earthrealm:
IF YOU MUST GO THE USED BATTERY ROUTE, UNLESS YOU ARE VERY FORTUNATE TO GET DECENT batts, 2kw load for over 12hrs would be tasking the batteries severly, used batteries are best for light loads, their achilles heel is usually big loads.

if you you can get decently used flooded batts, they hv thicker plates wch are supzd to be more load resistant. or better still the 2v 500ah used batts.
the used battery market is a pit of snakes, hope you have the tools -- especially a load tester to thoroughly test any battery you end up going for. using only a volt meter to check batteries is soooo wrong, i hv 2 failed batts, they charge ok and read 13.1v resting voltage, but drop to 6v once you introduce a load to them

have you carefully reviewed your load to see if/how to reduce it?

odimbannamdi:
Boss, how do i reach you? I need assistance connecting my own PowMr CC.

I sent you a PM though

NiyiOmoIyunade:
The only thing I will say is that if you plan to run 2kw loads off fairly used batteries which will very likely not be matched in capacity, then strongly consider using a 12v nominal system with suitable 12v inverter or implementing an effective battery balance scheme if you plan 48v. I can assure you that the common battery balancers will not help much to keep everything in sync when you run large loads off used batteries.

odimbannamdi:
Boss, e shock you sef abi?...

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odimbannamdi:
My Oga,

I have one (60v variant) on ground now that i may not use until about 2 months time. If you make me a decent offer, i may just let it go

ceaser:
I know the seller you got this from.

He is the only one that includes a pair of MC4 connectors in his PowMr CC pack.

By the way, I recently experienced an unusual disheartening performance form the use of this CC in its use with LFP. Although it was later addressed and the problem was just with one out of like 5 units I have worked with. So you may want to watch out for that.

Last time I used the CC with LFP, the problem started on the first day system went online. Panel config is 320 watts 2s2p on 24v105ah LFP, 1.5kva PSW inverter.

The inverter started acting up, switching off and on, and the digital meter reading on the battery begun to fluctuate from 29v to 32v, then back to 25v, to 29v and like that all over rapidly. The fluctuations also coincides with the inverter acting up. This problems is not reproducible when the DCB from panel to CC is flipped to off (when no charging current flows into the CC from the panels) or even the system is in use overnight/early mornings before the sun is high.

My conclusion then was that the CC was messing up by not being able to quickly throttle down and peg the inrush voltage and current to the user preset float of 28v once the battery gets full but goes as high as 30v and the BMS protect of the LFP kicks in to protect the battery by tripping off when incoming voltage gets to 29v; and because there is still a communication between the CC output and inverter input, the inverter too senses the voltage of 30v (its high voltage protect level) and switches off appropriately.

The solution was to reduce the float of the CC to 27.5v so that the battery when fully charged does not go beyond 27.4v at most. Everything has been working fine for about six weeks now.

This problem.did not happen with the other CCs in use and I even had to bring in a used PowMr I had lying around in the course of trouble shooting, but still couldn't recreate the scenario.

Namzy:
If you are sure you connected them well in series and the batteries have some charge left, then inverter might be faulty. Even a12v 50ah battery in series for 36v will power a inverter, unless I'm missing something

Namzy:
If you are sure you connected them well in series and the batteries have some charge left, then inverter might be faulty. Even a12v 50ah battery in series for 36v will power a inverter, unless I'm missing something

TBrownAuto:
AGM battery life cycle are just 1yr and few month dont be fool by the brand name all are same

DADAL:
Hello house

Upgraded (4 units 2000US Pylontech, Victron Multiplus-II 48v, and Victron BlueSolar 250/60) and now have my previous system up for sale:

- 4 units Trojan AGM 205AH (commissioned 02/09/2019)
- 2 units Victron BlueSolar charge controller MPPT 100 | 50
- 2 units Victron energy battery balancer
- 1 unit Victron energy MultiPlus 24v | 3kva | 70amp

Call or WhatsApp on 0814 459 3191

Valto:
80A DC circuit breaker(brand new)

63A DC circuit breaker(used)

40A AC circuit breaker (used)

HA02 48v battery balancer (used)

125A automatic transfer switch 2pole(brand new)

100A automatic transfer switch 4pole(brand new)

fangupsun blue solar charge controller MPPT 50A with the display meter(used)

lcd battery monitor with 100A shunt (used)

digital timer switch din rail (used)

all used ones are very clean and working perfectly and for sale @affordable prices. can be easily waybilled to anywhere.
whatsapp 080-8541-5985.

ojeysky:
Yes it's hybrid, 4kw PV is the max though I currently have 5.2kw on mine just to cater for bad weather days and to allow for reasonable early late hervest, not that I get close to 4kw instantaneous. It's high Voc at 450v and 80A CC inbuilt.