Onnari's Posts

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Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 6:57am On Aug 17, 2013

@efosa/jada- ur pieces are lovely!

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 7:59pm On Aug 15, 2013

yodiyokun: Last post for tonight, I promise...Please can the experts check my plan and see if it makes sense:

1. Join back bands to bodice and skirt
2. Insert zipper (I like to insert the zipper on flat fabric, it makes it easier for me)
3. Join front band to bodice and skirt
4. Join neck facing to front and back necks, stay stitch facing down inside so the facing doesn't roll out)
5. Pin sides together and try fit.
6. Add shoulder facing and sew up sides and pin hem.

I have a few questions on each of these steps... especially how to finish the shoulder and how to adjust of the shoulder armhole seems tight. I cut it a bit small I think just in case.

I really feel good about this dress - I think its going to be a winner!

Your plan's alright,I'm just a bit concerned about the armhole.- it looks really small and by the time you sew in the sides, u would barely slide your whole arm through.try deepening your armholes. Measure from your shoulder and stop at 8" and let that be the depth. And then measure out so you've 18" EXCLUDING seam allowance.
To finish the shoulder, you can go two ways.
1. Sew your front facing to the back facing, join the front bodice to the back bodice. After that, place the entire facing over the entire neckline and join. Then you staystitch and iron.
OR
1. Sew facing to front neckline. Sew facing to back neckline. Place front and back bodice right sides facing each other. Sew each shoulder together from neckline edge to shoulder edge. Open joining seam, iron, close facing, iron.....that's all there is.

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 7:58pm On Aug 15, 2013*

yodiyokun: Last post for tonight, I promise...Please can the experts check my plan and see if it makes sense:

1. Join back bands to bodice and skirt
2. Insert zipper (I like to insert the zipper on flat fabric, it makes it easier for me)
3. Join front band to bodice and skirt
4. Join neck facing to front and back necks, stay stitch facing down inside so the facing doesn't roll out)
5. Pin sides together and try fit.
6. Add shoulder facing and sew up sides and pin hem.

I have a few questions on each of these steps... especially how to finish the shoulder and how to adjust of the shoulder armhole seems tight. I cut it a bit small I think just in case.

I really feel good about this dress - I think its going to be a winner!

Your plan's alright,I'm just a bit concerned about the armhole though - it looks really small and by the time you sew in the sides, u would barely slide your whole arm through.try deepening your armholes. Measure from your shoulder and stop at 8" and let that be the depth. And then measure out so you've 18" excluding seam allowance.
To finish the shoulder, you can go two ways.
1. after you've sewn your front facing to the back facing, join the front bodice to the back bodice. After that place the entire facing over the entire neckline and join. Then you staystitch and iron.
OR
1. Sew facing to front neckline. Sew facing to back neckline. Place front and back bodice right sides facing each other. Sew each shoulder together from neckline edge to shoulder edge. Open joining seam, iron, close facing, iron.....that's all there is.

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 7:38pm On Aug 15, 2013

justsmile: Hi Onnari, I must confess....this thread is great. I like the way you explain things! Would really like you to coach me...just that am not in the same town with you. I stay in abuja. Can you pls recommend a very good fashion outfit where I can learn? I want someone as good as you o! Pls, I want a good training from scratch. Am passionate about fashion. I have sooooo many creative ideas and designs in my head but I can't execute them cos I lack the skills. Wish I could fellow you guys here but I sincerely don't understand some terms and technicalities here. Pls I need ur recommendation ASAP. Thanks

Thanks for appreciating the thread, I promise to look around for an Abuja fash school. You can drop a mail to reach you with. Sorry bout not being able to follow this sew along due to the terms and all. That would be remedied soon. Working on it. Just remember to include an email addy so i can mail u.

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 7:33pm On Aug 15, 2013

I'm done with my part, over to Maksjoy to illustrate joining the skirt to the bodice.
At the end of all sewing, finished pieces would be uploaded, (seeing that I'm still owing a pic of my Sima dress, I would post my Sika dress alongside my Orla Kiely dress.

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 7:30pm On Aug 15, 2013

@yodiyokun- I also thoughtño to post pics of the armhole of a jacket cos the measurement is same as yours I.e 18"
Here, two extra inches were added making 20' and then a seam allowance of 1.5" was used so I'm uploading a photo of the armhole before sewing in, and a photo of the armhole folded with one and a half inches for illustration, so you see what I would look like after sewing in. So all in all, for a sleeveless dress, use your actual 18".

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 7:22pm On Aug 15, 2013

Notice the slash? This is the reverse side.the other side would have the buttons sewn on. The width is same width as the pleated area of the skirt.

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 7:21pm On Aug 15, 2013

I used the same technique used in making a bow i.e with a little slash for turning sake!

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 7:20pm On Aug 15, 2013

I then made a flap on which I'll sew my buttons on. The flap would sit just in the middle of the band with the four buttons at the edges

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 7:18pm On Aug 15, 2013

Here is the completed bodice, folded. Facing, zip and all although the armhole hasn't been finished yet. I used a bias trimming as against a facing for the armhole

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 7:15pm On Aug 15, 2013

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 7:14pm On Aug 15, 2013

Hi all! I know most of us are done or almost done but I thought to post photos of how I fixed facing as it might be useful to some.

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 5:34am On Aug 15, 2013

yodiyokun: Last post for tonight, I promise...Please can the experts check my plan and see if it makes sense:

1. Join back bands to bodice and skirt
2. Insert zipper (I like to insert the zipper on flat fabric, it makes it easier for me)
3. Join front band to bodice and skirt
4. Join neck facing to front and back necks, stay stitch facing down inside so the facing doesn't roll out)
5. Pin sides together and try fit.
6. Add shoulder facing and sew up sides and pin hem.

I have a few questions on each of these steps... especially how to finish the shoulder and how to adjust of the shoulder armhole seems tight. I cut it a bit small I think just in case.

I really feel good about this dress - I think its going to be a winner!

Sorry bout my lack of updates guys, been
crazy busy. I'm wrkn on the dress at this very
moment so I'd post tonight by God's grace.
PS. Wld reply posts later in the day. Happy
wih work I c here, u guys r just too much! As for the puckering on ur back princess seam. Trim it off I suppose its around the bust area?trim it so its an even curve.

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 4:38am On Aug 15, 2013*

wizb: I feel good about the dress too. I hope to finish mine tomorrow.

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 12:06pm On Aug 14, 2013

EFOSA VAL: Very cool.......may God bless the works of your hands dear.

So sorry i have been away from this thread,been very busy, last week it was a wedding , this week its been inspection from federal Governent for recognition , Appraisal, and thus Approval of our Fashion school,so i really had no spear time at all,but now that that is out of the way i am back and ready to help.also i must add that i am really grateful that you guys appreciate our collective effort on this thread i pray that as some of us here have found financial benefits from doing what we love fashion designing so also will you guys expecially those just starting .i would like to say here that keep at it.............consistency is the key to success

Congrats luv! 2013 hugs from me, this is so ur year IJN !

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 7:02am On Aug 14, 2013

I own a fashion line which produces ready to wear and bespoke pieces primarily for women and secondarily(frgive my choice of that word :-) kids. Asides that, styling services.interior designing and a girl empowerment team where young girls are though to equip 'emselves with mental and vocational tools to be independent young women.
The blog is just an outlet to share stuff I'm passionate about and helping others to learn to create @ no charges @ all with the basic/simplest of tools and objects.that just about sums up what I do.

2 Likes

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 9:53pm On Aug 13, 2013

Have a good night guys.

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 9:39pm On Aug 13, 2013*

Final step: the way it looks folded after stitching

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 9:38pm On Aug 13, 2013

Then stitch together

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 9:32pm On Aug 13, 2013*

@wiz B- here t'is.the way you cut the center back if you want a cut down the center back along with a side zip. Its easy though,all you need to do is taper it down the center back from about an inch above ur underbust down to the bottom at a half inch.

Again fabric width is this wide for illustration purposes.

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 11:00pm On Aug 12, 2013

But wether ur doing a curved or straight dart, be sure to:
Begin sewing from the wide point to the tip and make the last few stitches right at the fold, leaving the threads long enough to tie a know so you DON'T backstitch @ the point to avoid bubbles. If ts a double pointed dart, pin and work from middle to end and middle to end.

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 10:16pm On Aug 12, 2013

yodiyokun: Yes it is sleeveless. IIRC, my armhole measurement is 18.

Since it's sleeveless, it should be same 18" after sewing meaning 18" excluding seam allowance.
For sleeves, you could add an extra one or two inches, it all depends on what kind of cut it is actually and for a jacket you can do an extra 2 or 3 inches (especially lined jackets)

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 10:10pm On Aug 12, 2013

Beneath ur bust wld be ok. Can't post any photos tonight,had a looooong day :-) bear wimme guys and please send in yours if you can!

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 6:40am On Aug 12, 2013

yodiyokun: Onnari...thank you for clarifying this. Is there a way to know the difference. I used a sleeved dress armhole to compare with my dress. So that's a no no. This s a useful tip for when I cut out a new dress.
I think I'm going to change my fabric. It has stretch and I won't be able to cut out my skirt in the same direction as the blouse.
I hope to find something in my stash.

I'm back at home so I should start sewing tomorrow afternoon.

Is your sew along dress sleeveless? What's ur armhole measurement?

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 9:29pm On Aug 11, 2013

yemmylastcard: Hi everi1 am yemmy n am new here am so happy to see something like ds happenin here pls I sew aliitle my problem is wit armhole always too wide or has excess fabrics dt wrinkles or bulge out pls do help me out

You're welcome! Your armholes end up being too wide cos you probably don't use the right measurement for your armhole. How do you take measurements for your armhole? Do you add a few inches to you actual armhole? And again the depth matters. Note that you don't use the same armhole measurements for a sleeveless garment and a garment with sleeves. A garment with sleeves normally requires bigger armholes.

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 9:26pm On Aug 11, 2013

melissaray: Onari please why did you cut the band across?

For wide bands such as in the yellow dress, it's advisable to cut on the cross grain rather than straight as it sits better on the waist. You can try both methods(straight and across) and see the difference :-)
After you done cutting, remember to apply your fabric stay

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 9:24am On Aug 11, 2013*

www.next.co.uk also try victoria's secret.
Although the catalogues r sent for you to make orders though.

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 7:08am On Aug 11, 2013

Princess curve tip:
From the top of the fabric to the apex(the highest peak of the bust) you measure the length of your shoulder to your apex, and from your apex to your empire or underbust, you measure the length of your shoulder to your underbust (you don't have to measure the distance between your apex and underbust), and for the bodice, you just measure the length of your shoulder to your belly button.
So based on my measurements, gap between top of fabric and apex- 9", gap between apex and empire - 3",gap between empire and bodice - 6" it's all arithmetic and proportions!

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 6:06am On Aug 11, 2013

TIP: After you've made pleats for the skirt,apply some fabric stay at the edges of your pleats(on the inside) so it stands and has this 'stiff' look especially if you're using ankara which would get a bit soft after washing. This tip can also apply to other soft cotton fabrics.

1 Like

Fashion › Re: A “SEW ALONG” THREAD For Sewing Enthusiasts/Tailors/Fashion Designers:DECEMBER by onnari(op): 5:54am On Aug 11, 2013

jadareese: What measurements are you working with? Post
your bust, and waist measurements.

I'm workin wt dis; bust: 38.5/38/35.5
waist:39

Based on ur measurement I got about 28" for ur fold, that can't go around your circumference. Remember that your front bodice is meant to be bigger than your back bodice cos of your bust cup.

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