₦airaland Forum

wizb: Thanks, I get it now. Pls what is the lenght of your bodice?

I typed out the measurements earlier. Also specified that I was making use of the full bodice for illustration purposes only and you are to stop at bout 2" after ur underbust where your band is to begin.

@ cheries- once you've mastered the front bodice which I believe you have now by making use of the above methods, the back is cake its basically the same,proportions and all the only difference is this:

Back Bodice:

1.The width @ the center top isn't as wide as that of the front bodice cos u don't have boobs @ ur back to 'cup'. The wider the width @ the center top, the more curve you get on the bust.
*at the back you don't need to make use of the bust and underbust curve as such and your princess curve can even end up at the shoulders and you'll still be ok.
2. For those using a back zip, u'l have to leave your zip allowance, I used 1.5 for mine.
Note: IF AFTER CUTTING,your side piece is pointy where the bust is assumed to be, you can trim off the pointy paRt of the side pieces just a little, just a tiny piece so you can smoothen it out otherwise it would give you a little bulge after you join together.
@ wizb-hope it wouldn't be too late to post your request on the side zip back piece on monday?haven't had the time to work on the sew along dress owing to the fact d@ I'v bn doing some public speaking/training. It ends monday so I can post then.
You all are doing great.

yodiyokun: One more question...onnari will you be taking us through cutting and attaching neck facing and armhole facing?
Also how are you finishing your inside seams? My fabric frays ....how can I protect it if I don't use lining?

Yes I would. To finish I'm using an overlock machine. If you don't have that, you can use zig zag stitches

EFOSA VAL: Placing all together my out fit is almost ready




Over to the next instructor,my skirt part is done
I hope it was clear enough.......if not just ask any qestions i will be happy to go over it again

Pls o dearie don't run just yet! Pls put participants through the sewing of the skirts, gathers etc. Thnx ur doing grrreeeeeeat!! *hugs*

wizb: Thanks Onnari. Please show me how to cut the back piece into four.

Sure- Would do that tonight.

[quote author=Mak'sjoy]@Wizb, u'r welcom.




@Onnari, i was handed d baton.
@Yodiyokun, I'll post my pics asap.[/quote]No dear- I'm don't done, I wrote that we'd be doing the facings and shapening next so it isn't complete yet, and efosa would put participants through on sewing the complete skirt parts asides the cutting. Ur part then comes when you join bodice to skirt.

wizb: @Mak'sjoy, I was about to ask if I need to cut my back piece into two because I'm fixing my zipper by the side. Thanks a lot.

No you don't need to cut the back if you doing a side zip- though you might still need to cut it for better fit (the way you see some joining seams @ the center back of jackets, and some dresses.) *we did this for the sika dress,the back had 4 pieces* Note that this is optional but if you want to,let me knw and I'l show you how otherwise you can leave it @ a one piece.

[quote author=Mak'sjoy]Now, insert your zip, from the tip of your back neckline. You have a completed gown now, but, not your completed Orla Keily gown yet! On the front part of the gown, using tour needle and matching thread, attach your buttons, on the band, directly beneath your darts. As shown on the Orla Keily gown pic. And, voila! You have your own version of the Orla Keily gown to rock!
Congratulations ladies!
@Efosaval, @Onnari, WELDONE![/quote]Thanks dear, but we aren't through with the front/back bodice yet and haven't even joined to the band yet :-) and seeing that you're yet to upload pics, you see another reason to wait
I know all the waiting can be tiring , we're almost done.

tina mba: Hmm! Words can't express how I feel about what I'm seeing. You all are doing great.Efosaval I love your free spirit and teachings.keep it up.
Onnari,you should open a fashion school or write a book or something really,your techniques are very smart,clear,easy to understand and oh so concise. I actually just registered on nairaland because of you -to get my message across although I have been following this thread as a guest. You're talented dear can't wait to see your next post.
I'm no homo o! Lol!
PS. Forget about picture quality biko! The koko is in the process and that we see it at all and then, understand! Love ya!

Thanks dear. Appreciate u. *hugs*

[quote author=Mak'sjoy]If you want to use a side zip, there's no need to cut your back centre piece into two.[/quote]Obviously- but I'm not using a side zip. The orla kiely dress has got a back zip. So if a side zip is preferd by u, u can use a side zip and then you wouldn't have to cut the center back in two. Note that its always better to cut the back in2 back zip or no zip anyway ( there's a way to go about it as you don't just cut a straight line)this gives a better fit as we did for the sika wrap dress. Also check out some dresses and jackets and you'll see a joining seam at the back . It's just for fit purposes. So back zip or no,its advisable to do that.

jadareese: Errrm....@onari ,d first piece u posted I assume is jus for d front bodice abi? bt goin by ur calc,d piece is enough to go round d circumference.since its jus d front bodice r we nt supposed to divide by 4 instead of 2 cos m havin so much excess frm dis front alone(tryin to be conservative here though!!)

Post your measurements let me see 'em. What you have shouldn't be able to go round the whole circumference. Note that we working with the front bodice folded in 2.
Based on the calculations from my measurements, I have approximately 24", that definitely cannot go round me as my bustline isn't 24"!

NOTE: for the back bodice,I made my fabric wider at the sides to make it more visible for tutorial purposes, I'm going to have to trim it up before shapening cos it's excess.

-Cut double pieces for the band to act as a lining, I prefer to use the same fabric as lining as against actual lining.
-apply fabric stay to your band pieces.

Next we shape the back, apply interfacing, and insert the band..and then my work is done!

Fold in two, place on the cross grain again (this is for the back band)
-leave out your zip allowance at the edge (remember I'm using a 1.5" zip allowance)
Cut out

Mark out the width of the band, I used 4" cos I want a 3" band (half an inch above and below for joining seam allowance)
-cut out

The band:
In cutting the band, NEVER cut it straight but on the cross grain or bias or else it wouldn't sit well as it should.
1.Position your fabric on the bias as you can see from the photo
2.Measure and Cut out your waistline or underbust depending on where you want the band to begin.
(Don't forget seam allowance)

So for the back, you have 4 pieces.

-Cut out after marking.
-also cut the center piece into two:this is where you insert your zip.

Back bodice:
The back bodice is almost the same as the front,only difference is that you leave a zip allowance, and the curve isn't as sharp as that of the front cos you don't have boobs @ ur back :-)
-Use same proportions only add your zip allowance @ the center back ( mine is 1.5"
-mark out ur bust,empire(underbust),waistline
#again forgive my pic quality,using a phone cam#

jadareese: Errrm....@onari ,d first piece u posted I assume is jus for d front bodice abi? bt goin by ur calc,d piece is enough to go round d circumference.since its jus d front bodice r we nt supposed to divide by 4 instead of 2 cos m havin so much excess frm dis front alone(tryin to be conservative here though!!)

What measurements are you working with? Post your bust, and waist measurements.

wizb: @Efosa Val, welldone oh. Your pix is very clear and I like the purple contrasting background. I just learnt something from your fabric piece now.
@Onnari and Efosa, Please take a look at my fabric, diD I get it? It seems the side is not straight, did I miss something? Thanks

From the center to the joining seam cut in a straight line, from the joining seam outwards, slant upwards half an inch frm the bottom

wizb: Hehe! Work in progress.

Onnari you said to cut the bottom part downwards, I don't know where exactly to cut. Thanks

yodiyokun: Please see pictures as promised.

Thanks Onnari... after joining the pieces I saw why the upwards cut was needed. I'm going to buy lining today and go from there.

One more thing, I just winged the armhole cut but I wasn't really clear on the explanation. I do have a french curve that I used, but I wasn't too sure how slanted or straight the curve should be.

I have learnt a lot already and I truly appreciate you doing this., Its way better than cutting from a pattern. Trust me that is a very frustrating and painstaking process that I'm, not sure is entirely worth it. MHO FWIW.

@ the center where there's a slant, straighten it up I.e cut in a straight line, then from the joining seam cut upwards half an inch from the edge so that what you cut out looks like a triangle.

@toluh- good thing u found this thread. This is the guy I asked you to call.

Ladies and our 'invisible' gentle man, biko post your progress pics nau? Fabrics, work-in-progress every! Let's make the thread more picture friendly :-)

ohmashoes: Shop for women's shoes up to size 13W, various designers

www.ohmashoes.com
www.facebook.com/ohmashoes

I beg you in the name of Gos, if you goint to post, let it be topic specific PLEASE! On my knees!

EFOSA VAL: Yodiyokun..................what a name
My post is next......am waiting for onnari to give the go ahead coz that would indicate she is done with her part the bodies.

I done cut my whole cloth sha.....just waiting to post

I was even thinking that you'd post yours to speed things up, that way, participants can just keep some fabric aside for the bodice and waist band. I'l be uploading my second post this evening/night though.

yodiyokun: Onnari... you are a genius. everything you posted was clear up until this part. Do you mean that we are marking out the circumference at the bust, empire and waist and cutting the side seams? If we do this wouldn't the rise of the bust affect the marking. Last question, why are you doing the upward slant and what is the measurement?

other teachers, when should we expect your posts?
other students - has anyone of you started yet? please post pictures of your progress.

I am going to try on a test garment first before I cut my real fabric.

1. The cup of the bust wouldn't affect your markings cos you'll take into consideration I.e don't flatten It,let it 'rise' just as it is and then let the tape measure lay over it. If for example your bust measure is 36", you can make the bust measurement for the front bodice 19" and the back 17" etc
2. The upward slant is to prevent a funny sloppy look after you join the bodice to the band. As per measurement, you can use a half inch from the bottom, and then just cut upwards.

Thnx lots...

yodiyokun: Onnari,Onnari,Onnari--how many times did I call you! You be correct gal. I dey send cyber hug as I dey type.
This explaination makes it so much clearer

I don receive ur cyber hug o! Thanx dearie :-)

And voila! You're done! Easy eh?

You've done well, now Keep this aside and on the next post, we'll tackle the back bodice.
*wink*

Ps. Note that you can deepen your armhole but just a bit. And do you notice the bulge at the apex? That's why I made use of the 17/16" measurements for front and back. The bigger the bulge/cup the larger the difference between front and back.

Now mark the following points:
-Apex (here 9" but I marked at 9.5" to leave for shoulder seams)
-Empire (here 12" but I marked at 12.5" to leave for shoulder seams as well)
- Waistline(normally 2" above the navel, here this is the point where we join to the band. I made mine 2" below the empire which is 9" making 11"- and yes I've trimmed the length. #yesterday I mentioned leaving the full bodice length to better explain the princess seam cut)
1. At these points mark out according to your measurements. Now the way the princess curve is cut, I made room for the *boobies* when cutting as you'll notice the rise at the apex so, for this bust of 33" I'm using a measurement of 17" for the front and later, 16" for the back. This gives a better fit as opposed using equal measurements for the front and back.
2. Make room for seam allowance. Here I used 1.5" seam allowance
3. Cut out
4. At the bottom, make a little slant upwards from your princess seam as you see, it slants downwards. Don't leave it that way at all!!! Lol

In cutting the armhole, you can use this method if you don't want to make do with a french curve.
From the top of the shoulder I.e your neckline tip not the shoulder tip, mark out a depth of 7"(or 6.5 if you want a really high armhole, please note that the more busty you are the 'deeper' the depth so to be safe, you can stand in front of a mirror to see what works for you and measure, OR make reference to your sleeveless clothes for armhole depth)
- mark out according to your armhole measurement from depth to shoulder tip(note that when I say shoulder tip I mean the ball of your shoulders)
-cut out.

**my armhole ends at the chalk mark so you don't think it's as wide as that!! *grin*