₦airaland Forum

Anyone with a 300-400m length mulching film for sale? And seed seller who has SUPERBELL F1 in stock?

Okoroemeka

Are these things compulsory in Cukes planting

Calcium Nitrate, Magnesium Sulphate and pottasium Nitrate

I didn't see them in your post

Nezzjnr:
Okoroemeka

Are these things compulsory in Cukes planting

Calcium Nitrate, Magnesium Sulphate and pottasium Nitrate

I didn't see them in your post

cucumbers don't last long to require such fertilization, moreover too much inorganic fertilizer gives fruits with poor shelf life,manure is the main key to farming cucumbers,we have farmed cucumbers with 4 strategic manure application and the yield was ok,all those chemical s are better for a pepper farm that lasts so long

okoroemeka:
cucumbers don't last long to require such fertilization, moreover too much inorganic fertilizer gives fruits with poor shelf life,manure is the main key to farming cucumbers,we have farmed cucumbers with 4 strategic manure application and the yield was ok,all those chemical s are better for a pepper farm that lasts so long

So Manure has to be in excess quantity

Nezzjnr:
So Manure has to be in excess quantity

if you are using chicken manure one handful is ok per application,it is pig manure that can go up to one soup bowl measure per crop

okoroemeka:
if you are using chicken manure one handful is ok per application,it is pig manure that can go up to one soup bowl measure per crop

Npk... MOP... Urea and Ssp will act as supports ryt

okoroemeka:
cucumbers don't last long to require such fertilization, moreover too much inorganic fertilizer gives fruits with poor shelf life,manure is the main key to farming cucumbers,we have farmed cucumbers with 4 strategic manure application and the yield was ok,all those chemical s are better for a pepper farm that lasts so long

I strongly disagree! But it's all good

ideepaul:
I strongly disagree! But it's all good

putting all those chemicals on a cucumber farm can backfire,burn the crops,produce excess foliage or fruits that spoil in 2-3 days, potassium nitrate is what I can only use during flowering,manure already contains all those elements and more macro and micro nutrients,using of inorganic fertilizer should be done with utmost caution burning and immediate crop death is not far off,for example the recommended dosage for Haifa bonus is roughly 400 grams per knapsack,but we learnt the hard way that the official dosage means that the whole farm will die off,we reduced to 200 grams per knapsack which was acceptable by cucumbers but it produced serious leaf defoliation in pepper,so we are further reducing the pepper dosage to 100 grams/knapsack,if you apply manure as basal and plant,apply npk at 2 weeks, another manure and npk at flowering,and npk only after 2 harvest is ok for cucumbers

okoroemeka:
putting all those chemicals on a cucumber farm can backfire,burn the crops,produce excess foliage or fruits that spoil in 2-3 days, potassium nitrate is what I can only use during flowering,manure already contains all those elements and more macro and micro nutrients,using of inorganic fertilizer should be done with utmost caution burning and immediate crop death is not far off,for example the recommended dosage for Haifa bonus is roughly 400 grams per knapsack,but we learnt the hard way that the official dosage means that the whole farm will die off,we reduced to 200 grams per knapsack which was acceptable by cucumbers but it produced serious leaf defoliation in pepper,so we are further reducing the pepper dosage to 100 grams/knapsack,if you apply manure as basal and plant,apply npk at 2 weeks, another manure and npk at flowering,and npk only after 2 harvest is ok for cucumbers

So no necessary need of Ssp.. MOP and Urea??

ideepaul:
I strongly disagree! But it's all good

how many months is cucumber that you will use calcium nitrates or potassium nitrates e.t.c? Hope you know this fertilizer are expensive? If you are suggesting something like this in green house or garden I will understand, but commercial level (open field) it a no no for me. After second harvest you will notice Downy mildew infection and that is a signal your cucumber is going whether you like it or not. Or when do you plan to use those fertilizer? With all the workload, staking, pruning e.t.c fertigate? One of our friend here on nairaland first harvest on two thousand stand was 31 bags without any fertilizer just manure.

Farmerakinloye6:
how many months is cucumber that you will use calcium nitrates or potassium nitrates e.t.c? Hope you know this fertilizer are expensive? If you are suggesting something like this in green house or garden I will understand, but commercial level (open field) it a no no for me. After second harvest you will notice Downy mildew infection and that is a signal your cucumber is going whether you like it or not. Or when do you plan to use those fertilizer? With all the workload, staking, pruning e.t.c fertigate? One of our friend here on nairaland first harvest on two thousand stand was 31 bags without any fertilizer just manure.

Manure for me does most of the Job

Even the Npk and it's other solid Fertilizers act as support to me

I have done trials of
manure +wood ash
Manure + NPK (generally used method)
Manure + Potassium Nitrate
Manure + MOP+ NPK
I know which one I would pick at the drop of a hat based on yield, fruit taste, harvest elongation, and market acceptance when I am done with these tomatoes! I can't advocate for CALMAG, SSP, and the rest for cucumbers because I have not done them. Even these spacing thing, if I voice my experience now, arguement will start.
But the keyword is "Do what works for you, but be flexible"

ideepaul:
I have done trials of
manure +wood ash
Manure + NPK (generally used method)
Manure + Potassium Nitrate
Manure + MOP+ NPK
I know which one I would pick at the drop of a hat based on yield, fruit taste, harvest elongation, and market acceptance when I am done with these tomatoes! I can't advocate for CALMAG, SSP, and the rest for cucumbers because I have not done them. Even these spacing thing, if I voice my experience now, arguement will start.
But the keyword is "Do what works for you, but be flexible"

the last time I used ash...people were saying the cuke is sweet

ideepaul:
I have done trials of
manure +wood ash
Manure + NPK (generally used method)
Manure + Potassium Nitrate
Manure + MOP+ NPK
I know which one I would pick at the drop of a hat based on yield, fruit taste, harvest elongation, and market acceptance when I am done with these tomatoes! I can't advocate for CALMAG, SSP, and the rest for cucumbers because I have not done them. Even these spacing thing, if I voice my experience now, arguement will start.
But the keyword is "Do what works for you, but be flexible"

yeah one need to be flexible but lots of us here will be glad if u share your experience. That is the main aim of this thread, so people can learn from it

ideepaul:
I have done trials of
manure +wood ash
Manure + NPK (generally used method)
Manure + Potassium Nitrate
Manure + MOP+ NPK
I know which one I would pick at the drop of a hat
But the keyword is "Do what works for you, but be flexible"

What's the combo you'll be picking ?

Olaleyeabdullah:
the last time I used ash...people were saying the cuke is sweet

the potassium and boron content helps to sweeten fruits, but maybe at the expense of the fruit not lasting long if you are not careful

zxcvbnmlkjhgfds:
What's the combo you'll be picking ?

Manure+NPK+ MOP without drip
Manure + KNO2 if fertigating (manual or through drips)
I would reduce spacing to 30cm if mulched and fertigating.
To bring all this into context, I cultivated Saira f1 late last year,the yield was OK, and since I was planning to do tomatoes, I extracted a few f2 seeds, and planted them in sections of bags, and soil, with different spacing and farming procedures, I compared the fruits harvested, based on sizes, taste, no. of harvested fruit per stand and duration of harvest, the ones in bags were harvested for 6 weeks till the fruit quality just got poor and I abandoned it, for that particular section, I applied 2 spade full of manure + a handful of woodash+ KNO3 , No fertilizer, but 4 bags with 2 stands each have me 61 fully shaped fruits+ 17 misshapen fruits that are still marketable, the NPK section, started drying out in 3 weeks+ with the same manure application rate for all sections, the MOP section was the sweetest and lasted close to the KNO3 section

zxcvbnmlkjhgfds:
What's the combo you'll be picking ?

zxcvbnmlkjhgfds:
What's the combo you'll be picking ?

Such extremely high yields from and F2 generation seed is still baffling, I intend to do a more coordinated experiment next year as I do not have a large space to farm presently
As for spacing, except you have a standardized market for some of your products, especially, peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers, you maybe shocked to realize that total yield maybe increased by more dense spacing as far as you can manage issues associated with dense foliage using globally acceptable practices. Just read some research papers, repeat their experiment using locally available material and improvisation, compare their yields and be blessed, I am still open to any contrary experimental results and farmer experience, as that's how I learn, I am still your humble student!

In this your experiment. Did you have all the crops involved in bags or only some in bags.
I'm asking because if you planted some in bags and others on beds then you didn't give them similar growing conditions for the experiment. Your variables now include the soil preparation which I guess was not part of what you wanted to test.

ideepaul:
Manure+NPK+ MOP without drip
Manure + KNO2 if fertigating (manual or through drips)
I would reduce spacing to 30cm if mulched and fertigating.
To bring all this into context, I cultivated Saira f1 late last year,the yield was OK, and since I was planning to do tomatoes, I extracted a few f2 seeds, and planted them in sections of bags, and soil, with different spacing and farming procedures, I compared the fruits harvested, based on sizes, taste, no. of harvested fruit per stand and duration of harvest, the ones in bags were harvested for 6 weeks till the fruit quality just got poor and I abandoned it, for that particular section, I applied 2 spade full of manure + a handful of woodash+ KNO3 , No fertilizer, but 4 bags with 2 stands each have me 61 fully shaped fruits+ 17 misshapen fruits that are still marketable, the NPK section, started drying out in 3 weeks+ with the same manure application rate for all sections, the MOP section was the sweetest and lasted close to the KNO3 section

safarifarms:
In this your experiment. Did you have all the crops involved in bags or only some in bags.
I'm asking because if you planted some in bags and others on beds then you didn't give them similar growing conditions for the experiment. Your variables now include the soil preparation which I guess was not part of what you wanted to test.

I was also interested in how similar soil amendments in the soil and containers affected yield, 8 crops for soil and 8 for the bags each except for "manure + NPKfertilizer"

I am having a serious challenge on a piece of land.
I applied velum prime to the land around late April, ever since then any cucumber I plant on that piece of land die off withing two weeks, but when I tested few tomatoes on the same piece of land, it survived.
I tested is some weeks back again and I am still experiencing same problem.
what can I do please because I intend planting cucumber their.

aquadude15:
I am having a serious challenge on a piece of land.
I applied velum prime to the land around late April, ever since then any cucumber I plant on that piece of land die off withing two weeks, but when I tested few tomatoes on the same piece of land, it survived.
I tested is some weeks back again and I am still experiencing same problem.
what can I do please because I intend planting cucumber their.

first why are the cucumbers dieing,did you check the roots if it is truly nematodes or is it a case of fertilizer or manure burn,even nematodes cannot kill a 2 weeks old plant,the problems starts at fruiting then it will be wilting in sunlight,even a waterlogged soil can cause such mortality,if you want to plant again till the land properly,form ridges for good drainage and plant,do not use any manure or fertilizer let's see,

ideepaul:
Manure+NPK+ MOP without drip
Manure + KNO2 if fertigating (manual or through drips)
I would reduce spacing to 30cm if mulched and fertigating.
To bring all this into context, I cultivated Saira f1 late last year,the yield was OK, and since I was planning to do tomatoes, I extracted a few f2 seeds, and planted them in sections of bags, and soil, with different spacing and farming procedures, I compared the fruits harvested, based on sizes, taste, no. of harvested fruit per stand and duration of harvest, the ones in bags were harvested for 6 weeks till the fruit quality just got poor and I abandoned it, for that particular section, I applied 2 spade full of manure + a handful of woodash+ KNO3 , No fertilizer, but 4 bags with 2 stands each have me 61 fully shaped fruits+ 17 misshapen fruits that are still marketable, the NPK section, started drying out in 3 weeks+ with the same manure application rate for all sections, the MOP section was the sweetest and lasted close to the KNO3 section

the results of your experiment is a production of roughly 7 fruits per crop,which supposed to be yield of a normal well managed crop,but some factors tend to make this figure only to be an illusion to farmers,a farmer that got 7 fruits per crop is roughly 100 bags of cucumbers from 50grams of seed,I have see such yields before so it is possible,the problem usually starts when you try to expand from 8 crops to 1600 crop,with the additional work load and stress,sometimes you can no longer give the crops that special care that was give to the 8 crops,good soil and management are the keys to a successful cucumber farm.

okoroemeka:
first why are the cucumbers dieing,did you check the roots if it is truly nematodes or is it a case of fertilizer or manure burn,even nematodes cannot kill a 2 weeks old plant,the problems starts at fruiting then it will be wilting in sunlight,even a waterlogged soil can cause such mortality,if you want to plant again till the land properly,form ridges for good drainage and plant,do not use any manure or fertilizer let's see,

thanks for your response boss.
it is not the nematode that kills the cucumber. it is the velum prime I added to the soil. how can I neutralise the effect sir

aquadude15:
thanks for your response boss.
it is not the nematode that kills the cucumber. it is the velum prime I added to the soil. how can I neutralise the effect sir

that's why adding to much inorganic materials may backfire especially in cucumber farm,the best thing to do is to form ridges and till the soil properly,the action of hoe turning the soil will help

okoroemeka:
that's why adding to much inorganic materials may backfire especially in cucumber farm,the best thing to do is to form ridges and till the soil properly,the action of hoe turning the soil will help

Not many people use nematicides

okoroemeka:
the results of your experiment is a production of roughly 7 fruits per crop,which supposed to be yield of a normal well managed crop,but some factors tend to make this figure only to be an illusion to farmers,a farmer that got 7 fruits per crop is roughly 100 bags of cucumbers from 50grams of seed,I have see such yields before so it is possible,the problem usually starts when you try to expand from 8 crops to 1600 crop,with the additional work load and stress,sometimes you can no longer give the crops that special care that was give to the 8 crops,good soil and management are the keys to a successful cucumber farm.

By God's grace, next year I will continue my research on it and come up with something definitive. BTW, I never gave them any special care that beyond my normal schedule for larger landmass neither did I spray foliar fertilizers.
for this year, lemme concentrate on other crops!

ideepaul:
By God's grace, next year I will continue my research on it and come up with something definitive. BTW, I never gave them any special care that beyond my normal schedule for larger landmass neither did I spray foliar fertilizers.
for this year, lemme concentrate on other crops!

natural soil fertility is another game changer

okoroemeka:
natural soil fertility is another game changer

Pls can you enlighten us on the cost of drip irrigation installation on your farm. Also can you share the contact of the irrigation installation company to assist some of us. Thanks

Fertigation is nice but you cant fertigate a nursery

Cedagrochemical:
Fertigate it instead and see how the health of your crop will wow you

@ kibakare I need your whatsapp number. I need to ask you for a favor please.

@ emmaachile2 please if those seeds are still available, I will appreciate if to send them to me