wisesystem:

Wow!!! Great news Brother. Though will be going out on an official assignment for the next three weeks and my car would be parked. But if you could kindly avail me me with the phone number of the part seller and/or shop number at Gudu Market I could get a friend in Abuja to get one for me and send it down to Makurdi, my wife is also a lion lover and wont have problems getting them fixed in the car before my return.

With regards to the colour of the connectors, you are damn right just confirmed that myself with my car some minutes ago. Graciaz!!!

Ok. Will PM you the shop number and phone number.

Ikenna.

Ikenna351:

Ok. Will PM you the shop number and phone number.

Ikenna.

@ wisesystem,

Have sent you the info.

Ikenna.

Ikenna351:

@ wisesystem,

Have sent you the info.

Ikenna.

Got it Boss. Danke!

@ Ikenna.

Noticed on routine check of my car this morning that while on idle the rpm fluctuates between 900 and 1000 rpm, not experiencing any rough idling though. Please is that normal? Do have spiritually fulfilling sunday.

kadbus:

i changed d spark plugs myself wen i noticed dat d car drags wen acelerated. I noticed dat 1 of d vaccum hose dat goes 2 d tottle housing was not plugged in

shikenan! Dat is most likely d culprit. U mecho wld hav pulled out ur injectors sprayd them with cab cleaner while connecting it to a battry den dat will lead to another issue(bigger) den another and on and on.

wisesystem: @ Ikenna.

Noticed on routine check of my car this morning that while on idle the rpm fluctuates between 900 and 1000 rpm, not experiencing any rough idling though. Please is that normal? Do have spiritually fulfilling sunday.

Just back from 8am Mass. Good morning all.

Your engine is hunting, usually caused by vacuum leak. I hope you didnt mistakenly pull out any vacuum line and forgot to push it back in properly? Or could it be one of the vacuum lines started leaking? Are you hearing any hissing sound in the engine bay while engine is idling?

When you start your engine first time when its cold, the needle will jump and remain at about 1k rpm for a while. Gradually, it will start descending as the engine warms up, till it gets to 700 rpm or so, depending on the car ignition system set up and remains there. Thats the function of CTS. Because the coolant temperature is cold, the CTS reports that to Engine ECU and the ECU will command injectors to spray in excess fuel, since a cold engine will need more than normal amount of fuel to start and run till it warms up. But as soon as the engine warms up, the rpm will then always stay at 700 rpm anytime you start the car throughout the day, unless the engine gets cold again.

So if you mean your engine speed/sound is jumping up and down, including the rpm, while at idle, then the engine is hunting. Look for an unplugged vacuum line or even sensor. Engine hunt means the engine ECU is doing guess work, trying to stabilize the normal amount of fuel going into the combustion chambers due to incorrect signals its receiving from sensor(s) or unwanted additional air which the MAP will detect and signal wrongly to the engine ECU.

Ikenna.

Ikenna351:



When you start your engine first time when its cold, the needle will jump and remain at about 1k rpm for a while. Gradually, it will start descending as the engine warms up, till it gets to 700 rpm or so, depending on the car ignition system set up and remains there. Thats the function of CTS. Because the coolant temperature is cold, the CTS reports that to Engine ECU and the ECU will command injectors to spray in excess fuel, since a cold engine will need more than normal amount of fuel to start and run till it warms up. But as soon as the engine warms up, the rpm will then always stay at 700 rpm anytime you start the car throughout the day, unless the engine gets cold again.



Ikenna.

Hope you enjoyed mass Lion King. Read your post and immediately went back to the car, engine still warm and I actually observed that the rpm remained at 700. But abeg no vex,Am not clear as to what constitutes vacuum line in a car. make I no form sey I know am come dey suffer tomorrow... thanks. The 'engine hunting' part is clear to me

kadbus:

i wil check it tomorow when going 2 church. Thanks

hello ikenna,
The high rev hav stopped but i noticed that my check engine comes on and off when i am driving on a sloppy road. And d fox consumes fuel. I am suspecting d o2 censor. How can i test d o2 censor?

wisesystem:

Hope you enjoyed mass Lion King. Read your post and immediately went back to the car, engine still warm and I actually observed that the rpm remained at 700. But abeg no vex,Am not clear as to what constitutes vacuum line in a car. make I no form sey I know am come dey suffer tomorrow... thanks. The 'engine hunting' part is clear to me

Any hose you see in that engine bay that dosent have fluid inside: coolant, fuel, power steering oil, A/C gas, is a vacuum line. Vacuum lines pass only air inside, starting from the tube on Aitfilter box to throttle body and the rest.

Ikenna.

kadbus:


hello ikenna,
The high rev hav stopped but i noticed that my check engine comes on and off when i am driving on a sloppy road. And d fox consumes fuel. I am suspecting d o2 censor. How can i test d o2 censor?

o2 sensor can be tested with Digital Multimeter with Millivolts. 2 or 5k DMM should have that feature. The best time to test with DMM is when engine is still cold. You should get .640 mv or so on the ECU signal wire of the o2 sensor, but should be fluctuating though. But if it remains constantly on a value, then its faulty. The engine ECU supplies constant value to o2 sensor when engine is not running, but the ignition is on. But when engine starts, the o2 sensor will reduce the value from the ECU and resend it via ECU signal wire to the ECU, while fluctuating. The heater part of the o2 sensor do fail most of the time, making the sensor not to work. I would also test the wire from the o2 sensor relay and the 2 ground wires on the sensor connector, to be sure the sensor is still receiving supply of 12v from the relay and grounds connectivity.

Or you simply scan the car with PP2000. You can still try universal scanner, even though not all of them reads D9 engine ECUs.

Ikenna.

kadbus:

i wil check it tomorow when going 2 church. Thanks

Hello Ikenna,

The high rev has stopped but i noticed dat d check engine light comes on when driving on a sloppy area and it consumes fuel. I am suspecting d o2 censor. Educate on how 2 test d o2 censor?

Ikenna351:

Any hose you see in that engine bay that dosent have fluid inside: coolant, fuel, power steering oil, A/C gas, is a vacuum line. Vacuum lines pass only air inside, starting from the tube on Aitfilter box to throttle body and the rest.

Ikenna.

Got it Brother. Thanks.

@ Kadbus,

I forgot to fully guide you on how to test oxygen sensor.

Now for Peugeots, they use Bosch universal oxygen sensor, though with Peugeot part number for OEM. Its 4-wire sensor.

Pull out the upstream o2 connectors apart (male & female). On the connector side of the sensor, you will see 1,2,3 & 4 engraved on the plastic connector, marking the pins. Numbers 1 & 2 are for the heater part of the sensor (both will be white colour for aftermarket Bosch o2 sensor).Then on the other connector from the engine wire, Test the pins 1 & 2 with DMM 2 leads. Place 2 of the leads on the pins, set the DMM to 20v and switch on the ignition. You should get 12v on the DMM screen. That means the o2 relay and ground to the heater are ok.

Then the number 3 pin on the connector from the engine harness (not the sensor) is ground too. Place the black lead on that pin, place the red lead of the DMM on the battery + head. You should get 12v as well. Make sure the black lead doesnt touch the number 4 pin while testing this number 3 pin, to avoid damaging the ECU. You dont need to switch on ignition while doing this test.

Then, the number 4 pin is the ECU signal wire. To test this wire, the engine needs to be running and the sensor connected. Unfortunately, there is no space provided to probe in the DMM probe on the connector. So you will need to scrape and expose that wire 4 (the wire will be black in aftermarket o2). Place the DMM red lead on the exposed wire 4 and ground the black lead, while engine is running. You should be getting a fluctuating values on the DMM screen, which i have mentioned in my earlier post. Switch off the car and tape the naked or exposed part of wire 4. That wire must not touch any other naked wire or body of the car, or you kiss your engine ECU goodbye.

Above is how to test o2 sensor with DMM.

Ikenna.

thank u. I wil update tomorrow

@Ikenna and co, I own a pug 407 6 speed manual. I notice when engaging the 4th gear it makes this 'greeeee' sound before it enter... I mean ir doesn't engage smoothly like other gears in motion.

As someone who is conversant with car, my 1st suspecion is the cluch, I checked if its leaking or the pedal is lowered down, that was ok too. I went to check the gear oil n was found to be ok too.

Now the question is what is the Lilly culprit affecting this 4th gear. Could it be the 'brass' inside the gearbox that is damaged? I ruled out the cluch disc n the plate coz there's no resistance or engaging all others gears including the reverse.

I appreciate ur suggestion pls.

yanmata: @Ikenna and co, I own a pug 407 6 speed manual. I notice when engaging the 4th gear it makes this 'greeeee' sound before it enter... I mean ir doesn't engage smoothly like other gears in motion.

As someone who is conversant with car, my 1st suspecion is the cluch, I checked if its leaking or the pedal is lowered down, that was ok too. I went to check the gear oil n was found to be ok too.

Now the question is what is the Lilly culprit affecting this 4th gear. Could it be the 'brass' inside the gearbox that is damaged? I ruled out the cluch disc n the plate coz there's no resistance or engaging all others gears including the reverse.

I appreciate ur suggestion pls.

If it is yours clutch pressure plate, the gear 1 and reverse wont enter or will be making the same noise.

If this was older Peugeot, i would ask you to check the gear linkages/rod fibers. Been there. But am not sure 407 manual gear set up is the same, since 406 uses cables in place of rods. They do have some pipes with fibers that will make gears difficult to enter if failed.

Concentrate on the gearbox not clutch. The problem could be internal (coming from inside the box) or the gear linkages fibers.

Ikenna

Ikenna351:

If it is yours clutch pressure plate, the gear 1 and reverse wont enter or will be making the same noise.

If this was older Peugeot, i would ask you to check the gear linkages/rod fibers. Been there. But am not sure 407 manual gear set up is the same, since 406 uses cables in place of rods. They do have some pipes with fibers that will make gears difficult to enter if failed.

Concentrate on the gearbox not clutch. The problem could be internal (coming from inside the box) or the gear linkages fibers.

Ikenna

Thx ikenna

@ Kadbus,

You need to also test your CTS with DMM, to be sure its not the cause of the rich running and not the oxygen sensor.

In fact, the best is to scan the car (better if its pp2000). There are other components that can cause rich running other than o2 sensor and CTS, when faulty.

Ikenna.

Ikenna351: @ Kadbus,

You need to also test your CTS with DMM, to be sure its not the cause of the rich running and not the oxygen sensor.

In fact, the best is to scan the car (better if its pp2000). There are other components that can cause rich running other than o2 sensor and CTS, when faulty.

Ikenna.

thank u sir. I think i wil scan it with PP2000

Oga Ikenna
Abeg help me, I just bought use 406 1999 model but now this warning sign is showing on the dash board. I search through[ net and find that it means '' coolant temperature warning light - illuminates when the coolant level is either too low, or the coolant is too hot. Check levels before driving on.''. I open the radiator and discover that there litle or no water. I poured about 6 littles of water but it still continues. Any idea of what might be the issue?


quote author=Ikenna351]This thread is for Lion owners, aspiring owners, Lion admirers and friends of Lions (former Peugeot owners).

If you are having any issue(s) with your Lion, you can seek for help here on how to sort it out. Someone might have a soluton to the nightmare the Lion is giving you.

We can as well post our experiences with our various Lions; both unhappy and happy ones.

Sometime early this year, very close to my office, I saw a 505 V6 packed in an "under Mango Tree Mechanic workshop". I went there and asked for the owner, for i wanted to see and know another fellow that own such a rare car like mine (505 V6) in Abuja. I was told the owner dropped the car over a week with them and the car was yet to be fixed. I asked what was wrong with the car, the mechanic became uncomfortable why my interest in the car and why i wanted to see the car owner. I explained to him that I own the same version of the 505 which is rare in Nigeria and I would like to know the owner, thats all. Well, he tried to explain to me what was wrong with the car, but he wasnt making sense. So I asked him to allow me to see the engine bay. When he opened the hood, I was shocked! Nearly all the vacuum lines were cut off from their various terminals. Weird! Well, i then asked him to start the car, when he did, i saw what or how the engine was behaving and knew right there the issue: an injection issue. A lot of things were wrong in that engine bay. No matter what the mechanic would tried to do, that issue must remain there, since all he explained to me he had done or replaced had nothing to do with the issue the car was having. In fact, he was creating more problems with his trial and error for that engine. He even replaced the MAF and installed the wrong part number (Luckly, I know the part number off head, since I have a similar car, with identical engine). I tried to get the owners phone number from him, but he wouldnt give me. Instead, he asked me to drop mine, that he would give the car owner whenever he comes, to call me. I made a note on the paper i gave to the mechanic to give to owner where i wrote down my number, explaining reason why i would want to meet with him, believing that the mechanic wouldnt understand what was written. I left them, after i realised that my presence there was no longer welcomed. As suspected, the owner never called because the mechanic would not have given him the note; fear that i want to collect chop from him! For another 3 more weeks, the car remained there at that workshop each time i passed there. At a point, I even forgot about it. 2 months later, i remembered, went back to check and the car was no longer there. Could be that the owner has towed the car to another workshop or only God knows what has happened to that car. This was a car I would have fixed that for person less than 24hrs, without a dime, if i had met him. There is no injection and ignition issue of 505 V6 i cannot fix myself. I have studied and mastered every wire from the 2 ECUs to various sensors, by knowing the function of each wire, sensors and components in that engine bay. I could tell quickly what is wrong with that EFI system and what the culprit would be with a little test with multimeter and test light. I dont need any scanner to diagnose and fix Bosch LH 2-2 Jetronic (EFI system of ZN3J - the PRV V6 engine in 505 V6). I couldnt help the guy because he was unlucky. If we had met in nairaland, he would have been saved from the hands of that clown that was killing the car when i went there. Possibly, he may have scrapped the car by now. Because there is no way that car would run properly with the condition i met it that day. So many wrongs were done in that engine bay.

Lets share our problems here in this thread and possibly get help from ourselves in keeping our Lions on the road as long as it takes.

Ikenna.[/quote]

@ Val2001,

I believe you meant you opened coolant container/expansion cap, because no D9 has radiator with cap.

The fluid/water must be leaking out or entering somewhere. Have you tried to find the leak source?

Is the coolant container cap seal still ok? Do you know the seal looks like on the cap? I would you remove yours and take to a a Peugeot shop, ask for a new cap and compare the two. You will see the black seal on the seal. Check if yours is still there. If the container cap seal breaks, coolant or water will start flowing out from that cap as soon th engine warms, until the fluid in the cooling system dries off. It could cost you your head gasket or cylinder head.

Have you checked your oil dipstick? Whats the oil colour on the dipstick? Whats the level of the oil on the dipstick? Overgauged?

By the way, whats the engine series in that engine bay?

Ikenna.

Thanks so much. The blue cap is actually broken and the seal is gone. I tried to fill coolant containe but it start leaking when it is close to full. I will buy one tomorrow. I will check the engine series. I think the oil is ok.

Ikenna351: @ Val2001,

I believe you meant you opened coolant container/expansion cap, because no D9 has radiator with cap.

The fluid/water must be leaking out or entering somewhere. Have you tried to find the leak source?

Is the coolant container cap seal still ok? Do you know the seal looks like on the cap? I would you remove yours and take to a a Peugeot shop, ask for a new cap and compare the two. You will see the black seal on the seal. Check if yours is still there. If the container cap seal breaks, coolant or water will start flowing out from that cap as soon th engine warms, until the fluid in the cooling system dries off. It could cost you your head gasket or cylinder head.

Have you checked your oil dipstick? Whats the oil colour on the dipstick? Whats the level of the oil on the dipstick? Overgauged?

By the way, whats the engine series in that engine bay?

Ikenna.

Val2001: Thanks so much. The blue cap is actually broken and the seal is gone. I tried to fill coolant containe but it start leaking when it is close to full. I will buy one tomorrow. I will check the engine series. I think the oil is ok.

In that case, you will need to bleed the cooling system after refilling with with coolant. If you dont, the coolant will still flow out of the container cap once the engine warms, because the air in the system will make the coolant to overboil while engine is running and it will force itself out of that cap.

Also, if the radiator fins is clogged, the coolant will flow out of that cap when the radiator fan stop spinning, but will stop flowing out of that cap as soon as the fan starts spinning. I would advice you use pressure water and blow the radiator fins. Take the car to a car wash, remove the front grille, cover the Alternator very well with leather/plastic bag and tell them to blow the radiator fins from the front opening where you removed the grille. You need to be there to observe. Watch the water coming out behind the radiator in the engine bay until it looks clean, you can then tell them to stop. The cleaning should take 5 mins or more, depending on how clogged or dirty the fins are. The cooling will improve after the wash. Its always advisable to blow the radiator fins with pressure water machine once in a while. You dont have to wait for symptoms of clogged radiator fins to show up before you take it for washing. Thats preventative maintenance. The washing shouldnt cost more than N500, since they are not washing the entire car. I wash mine too.

If your engine is EW series, it should have 2 bleed screws: 1 on the heater matrix tube on the firewall and the 2nd one on the thermostat housing. The bleed screw on the t-housing is 5.5 mm Allen Bolt. You will need 5.5 mm Allen key to slack it open. The blew screw on the firewall is a black knob. You can turn or open it with your hand.

Note that if your engine is ES series (V6), it will have 3 bleed screws: 2 on t-housing and the remianing one on the heater matix tube on the firewall.

If you dont know how to bleed a Peugeot, let me know when you are ready, i will guide you.

*Note that Peugeot engines are bleeded differently from some of other brands.

Ikenna

Hi thanks for the good job at guiding us. pls can u check this VIN for me. Vf38b3fzf81419783. have a nice sunday

Hi Ikenna, thanks for the good work. pls, can u guide me on how to restore my radiator fan to factory settings as it is now running on relay. please, help me.

guysmilee134: Hi thanks for the good job at guiding us. pls can u check this VIN for me. Vf38b3fzf81419783. have a nice sunday

Details below:

1. Vehicle family: 406 (Restyling/D9) 4 Door Saloon.

2. Warranty start date: 04/12/2001.

3. BER: e2*98/14*0089*00.

4. Engine: EW12 J4, 2.2 L, 16v, 170 hp, etc.

5. Transmission: 5-speed manual gearbox, BVM5.

6. Body colour: Rhodes Blue.

7. Interior Trim type: Leather.

8. Fuel: Lead Free Petrol.

9. Fuel Supply cut off: without.

10. Fan: 1 Fan 350W.

11. Clutch: Hydraulic.

12. Tyre (size, type): 205/55 R16 W tyre.

13. ABS: with ABS brakes.

14. Anti-theft device: standard.

15. Brake type: Ventilated front discs/rear discs.

16. Electronic Stability Program (ESP): Without.

17. Windscreen wiper: front wiper with rain sensor.

18. Front Foglamp: Available.

19. Sun Roof: fixed roof/without.

20. Front seats adjustment: Manual control.

21. Front seats Armrest: Fitted with armrest.

22. Special Lighting: Daylight Running Lights.

23. Etc.



Ikenna.

samoy: Hi Ikenna, thanks for the good work. pls, can u guide me on how to restore my radiator fan to factory settings as it is now running on relay. please, help me.

Its not something i can guide you from here, since the fan relay wires are been butchered or bypassed differently by our clowns. Its something i need to see before telling you what to do. The fan relay housing is behind the front grille. They should be 3 relays.

Ikenna.

hello house,
after connecting back d vacuum hose i thought dat would fixed d high rev issue but i was wrong. I researched on dis issue and finds out it was d steper dat was covered with carbon. So i cleaned it with carb cleaner, replaced it back and after dis d high rev stopped.

Ikenna351:

Its not something i can guide you from here, since the fan relay wires are been butchered or bypassed differently by our clowns. Its something i need to see before telling you what to do. The fan relay housing is behind the front grille. They should be 3 relays.

Ikenna.

Thanks for ur quick response. There are 3 relays beside the fan behind the grille. One of these relays is actually connected directly(the blue-middle) cos anytime my radiator fan stop working, this relay will have to be changed and the fan will start working. What can I do to restore my fan to factory settings? Is there any manual that can guide me on this? Or will u be in lagos very soon? Gracias

samoy:
Thanks for ur quick response. There are 3 relays beside the fan behind the grille. One of these relays is actually connected directly(the blue-middle) cos anytime my radiator fan stop working, this relay will have to be changed and the fan will start working. What can I do to restore my fan to factory settings? Is there any manual that can guide me on this? Or will u be in lagos very soon? Gracias

Hmm! They really butchered that harness. No mercy!

Anyway, yes, with the wiring diagram/schematic, you can reverse it to factory connection. I have the D9 XU10 & EW10 wiring diagrams and Schematics. It has been provided by one of us in the house, either part of owners manual or workshop manual.

Note that D9 XU10 has 2 fans, while D9 EW series has 1 fan. So you should look for the wiring schematic of your engine.

If you were in Abuja, I would have asked you to bring the car over my place. It will take me less than 20 minutes to reverse those wrong connections to factory.

From the pics, we could see that only one relay is left, while the other were removed. You need to buy and put back the missing 2 relays. Whatever you do, do not buy new one of that relay. Talking from experience. Its 5-pin Bosch relay. Used one of that relay cost between N250 - N500 here in Abuja. They hardly fail.

As for when next I will be in Lagos, I have no plans for now.

Ikenna.

Ikenna351:

Hmm! They really butchered that harness. No mercy!

Anyway, yes, with the wiring diagram/schematic, you can reverse it to factory connection. I have the D9 XU10 & EW10 wiring diagrams and Schematics. It has been provided by one of us in the house, either part of owners manual or workshop manual.

Note that D9 XU10 has 2 fans, while D9 EW series has 1 fan. So you should look for the wiring schematic of your engine.

If you were in Abuja, I would have asked you to bring the car over my place. It will take me less than 20 minutes to reverse those wrong connections to factory.

From the pics, we could see that only one relay is left, while the other were removed. You need to buy and put back the missing 2 relays. Whatever you do, do not buy new one of that relay. Talking from experience. Its 5-pin Bosch relay. Used one of that relay cost between N250 - N500 here in Abuja. They hardly fail.

As for when next I will be in Lagos, I have no plans for now.

Ikenna.

Thanks for ur quick response. When I was asking one rewire if he can restore it to factory setting, he said maybe the thermostat has been removed that made the relay to be connected directly. How do I know if the thermostat is still intact? If the thermostat is absent, can the fan still be restored to factory settings? Pls, provide a link for me to download d schematic diagram for the repair. Gracias

I recently gathered that in 406, only the petrol 4 cylinder D9 got the AL4 transmission. All D8 and D9 V6, including the Diesel ones, were fitted ZF 4HP20 auto box instead, which seem to be more reliable than the AL4. So, now we know.

Ikenna.