A British journalist, David Hayward, who visited Nigeria, captures his impressions about the country.

Earlier this year, I was approached to do some media consultancy in Nigeria. I’d just left the BBC after 18 years, to set up my own business, so this seemed a great opportunity. I spoke to a number of friends and former colleagues. I’d heard many stories about Nigeria, seen the reports on Boko Haram and had my own impressions of sub Saharan Africa.

The advice fell into two camps:
a) Don’t go, you’ll get kidnapped or catch malaria. Either way, you’re going to die

b) Nigeria is a nightmare. When you arrive, you’ll be swamped by hustlers trying to rip you off, steal your luggage and all your money. If they don’t get you, the corrupt police officers and officials will.

I was mainly to be based in Asaba, the capital of the Delta State, one of, if not the biggest, oil producing states is Nigeria. In an attempt to be a bit more thorough with my research than asking a few old mates, I contacted the office of BBC Media Action in Abuja.

The fairly pragmatic response was : “We treat the Delta State as a hostile environment. It’s an oil producing area and there is a strong risk of kidnapping. However if you have armed security, this risk will be slightly reduced”. I took this to be reassuring and made sure an armed security clause was written into my contract. I spent some time talking to my wife Jo and children about the prospect of going to Nigeria.


Jo’s attitude was : “For God’s sake, this is exactly what you love doing. The more dangerous a place the better the stories. You’ll be able to show off and bore people senseless about roadblocks, men with guns and how brave you are”. Buoyed by this I accepted the work and prepared for Asaba. I got my visa, all the vaccinations I could fit into my arm and made sure I had a small mountain of malaria tablets.

I really didn’t know what to expect from Nigeria. It’s easy to fall into preconceptions that Africa is all about war, famine, corruption and poachers killing endangered animals.

I caught the overnight BA (British Airways) flight from Heathrow to Abuja, arriving first thing on Sunday morning. The flight was made slightly more interesting by the chap next to me hissing at the flight attendant to attract her attention. This did not go down very well.

I was later to discover this is common practice in Nigeria and not considered rude in the least.

Not sure the flight attendant saw it this way!

So, the first challenge and opportunity for anecdotes was here. Running the gauntlet through the hordes of hustlers outside the airport, once I had collected my luggage and passed through security.

Interestingly, this is the first airport I have been to in the world where they check your bags belong to you by making sure your baggage labels match your ticket. I had always thought it would be very easy to simply walk off with the nicest looking suitcase on the carousel. Not here!

Imagine my disappointment when I was almost completely ignored and simply met Yinka, the guy I would be working with. We walked, unthreatened, straight to his car.

We drove through newly completed roads, past new buildings and billboards advertising numerous western goods and luxury items. This is not the Africa I was expecting.

We checked into the hotel, logged onto wifi, I emailed home and uploaded a couple of pictures to facebook, still waiting for this hardship and danger to kick in. Maybe when we go out into town this afternoon, I will see a bit of the real Nigeria.

We certainly didn’t come across it at the couple of bars we went to that evening. I think it will take some time to get used to the isi-ewu (goat’s head pepper soup) and the chilled red wine. But the Star beer is very much to my taste.

The next day, we flew down to Asaba. Again, there was no problem at the airport; it was quite the opposite.

I was struck by the way the airline, Arik, made sure with every passenger that his or her bag was on the flight. I wish this had been the case when I went to Moscow last year and had to spend the first three days in the same clothes, because the airline had lost my luggage somewhere between Heathrow and Domodedovo.

The airport at Asaba is something to behold. It is brand new; everything was gleaming and had that just unwrapped feel. It was relaxed outside too.

The driver picked us up, no hustlers grabbing our bags. This is really not the Nigeria I was expecting.

The runway is being extended to take international flights. Within the next six months, Emirates will be flying in. Warehouses are being built around the site to cater for a mass of cargo.
About ten minutes drive away, just across the Niger Bridge, is the city of Onitsha. One of the busiest markets in Africa. You can buy almost anything there.

I was to travel in and out of the airport several times in the next five weeks. Each time something new was completed. The baggage carousel, lacking when we first flew in, was fully operational the next time. So were the check-in areas and the very plush departures hall.

The next morning was the first venture out. Yinka and I decided to go for a bit of a run. It seemed sensible to set off early because of the heat and to avoid the risk of being kidnapped or shot at. So at 6am we were off. About a minute into the jog we approached a group of somewhat hard looking men with very big guns. They were guarding the gates to our compound. This is not a sight I’m used to on my normal runs in rural Leicestershire, in the UK.

Anxious to appear as inconspicuous as possible I tried to sneak past, not drawing too much attention to myself, convinced I was about to be arrested. However quite the opposite. We were greeted with cheers of “Good morning sir, well done, how far?”.

Once I had composed myself from the shock, very nearly tripping over in a sweaty heap, we continued our circuits. Every time we passed someone we had the same greeting. It began to feel as though we had our own troupe of heavily armed cheerleaders. (Or should that be troop?)

This was quite an introduction to what, I began to realize, was one of the most friendly countries I have been to. This is a genuine friendliness. It is not a means to get to know you and rip you off.

The following few weeks continued to surprise me – and to make me feel very embarrassed about my initial preconceptions. I’ve been lucky enough to visit a whole range of places in the Delta State. The TV and radio stations need some work, but the staff are young, enthusiastic and very hard working. Warri, the oil centre, is a thriving hub that is only going to get bigger, with the construction of the largest business park in West Africa. The sign at our hotel was a bit disconcerting. It asked everyone carrying guns to make sure they weren’t loaded – which was nice.

The University Teaching Hospital in Oghara is as well equipped as any I have been to in the UK or the rest of Europe. There are state of the art CT and MRI scanners, a world class renal unit and 25 paediatric intensive care beds.

The journey to the hospital gave me the first opportunity to see a proper Nigerian village. This was far closer to what I had been expecting. The goats and cattle roaming the dusty roads, the food stalls cooking chicken, fish and corn over open fires. Dozens of bars with dodgy looking satellites, advertising the latest football matches live. When we slowed down, or stopped the car we were surrounded by two groups. The children pointing at me were shouting Oyibo, Oyibo (white man) and teenagers trying to sell anything from palm wine to cola nuts, to the latest mobile phones.

Now I can’t be sure, but I don’t think the iphone 5 I was offered for 5000 naira (about £20) was as genuine as it could be. All of this was done with great fun and humour. If you chose to, you could buy everything you needed from your car. If you didn’t, that was fine too.

Suicidal Okada
The transport system is far from perfect but all the roads we’ve driven on are absolutely fine. The most interesting experience was seeing the suicidal Okada motorcycle taxis in full force for the first time.

They have been banned in Delta State and replaced by three-wheel kekes. But this is certainly not the case in Onitsha. It is about a fifteen-minute journey from the centre of Asaba, but it could be on another planet.

You drive over the Niger Bridge, enter the neighbouring state and a different world. One where thousands of the small machines ferry people and any goods you can think of around. We saw one driver with four passengers, two adults and two children precariously balanced in front and behind him.

Oil barrels containing God knows what, weighing heavily on the clearly inadequate suspension. I was told someone had seen an Okada carrying a donkey, strapped to the driver as though he was giving it a piggy back. I don’t know if I believe this, but, from what I saw in Onitsha that day, I can’t rule it out.

The drivers are quite mad. We were there for about a minute before our car had its first near miss. We were to have many more in the next half an hour, with the rules of the road, like driving in the same direction on a dual carriageway, simply ignored.

The noise is deafening. As the Okadas rev their tiny engines, they sound like a swarm of very loud insects buzzing inside your head. You very soon begin to choke on the fumes of burning oil and petrol.

It was quite a relief to cross back over the bridge into the far more serene and calm home ground of Asaba. The welcome I have had everywhere is stunning. On one occasion I interviewed a senior state commissioner. It turned out it was his birthday. He kindly invited me to his party that evening. I didn’t really know anyone else going – so felt a little uncomfortable. No need. When I arrived he insisted I sit with him.

He made sure my glass was never empty and my plate constantly filled. I was introduced to everyone and made to feel an honored guest.

There was a downside to this. The comedian who anchored the programme took quite a shine to me….. “Ahhh give it up for the white man, where are you from”?
This was followed by ten minutes of him royally taking the **** out of me. I understood about one word in ten, but by the reaction of everyone else, it was obviously very amusing. So much for being inconspicuous.

Premier League
But the worst was still to come. People began standing up and paying tribute to the Commissioner. He is a very popular guy. Halfway through the speeches the comedian spotted me once again. “Does the white man want to speak”. I stood, said a few words and wished he would see his children’s children and his children’s children’s children. This appeared to be the toast de jour and went down very well. The evening ended with lots of photographs being taken and many new good friends.

The one thing you cannot escape in Nigeria is the love of the English Premier League. I have so far failed to meet another Leicester City fan, an obvious shame, but there are millions of diehard Manchester United, Arsenal and Chelsea supporters.

Watching the Liverpool v Man Utd game at the Asaba viewing centre, with thousands of people wearing the respective replica kits, was one hell of an experience, although my eardrums may take some time to recover. There is no doubting their passion. They may not have been to Old Trafford, The Emirates or Stamford Bridge, but the passion they exuded was clear. I’m not sure what ‘come on ref,’ or ‘what was that you idiot’ is in pidgin, but I heard it several times that day.

The viewing centre was created by the governor of Delta State, Dr Emmanuel Uduaghan. He is an Arsenal supporter. I met him once while playing tennis. For some reason he didn’t seem very impressed by my love of Leicester City. I simply don’t understand why

CANT SEEM TO FIND A LEGIT SOURCE...SORRY.

FOUND IT!!!
http://www.ngrguardiannews.com/saturday-magazine/travel-a-tourism/132702-not-all-that-fails-to-glitter-is-bad-my-impressions-about-Nigeria

topic should actually read: Not All That Fails To Glitter Is Bad: ‘My Impressions About Nigeria’

and

Nigeria in the eyes of a Briton

http://www.vanguardngr.com/2013/09/nigeria-in-the-eyes-of-a-briton/

Ahaba amaka
I was born and bred there.

Am coming

See how the man praised our airport!
Kudos To the aviation minister jare!

OLD TALK. BUT WE STILL HAVE HONEST POLITICIANS LIKE AMAECHI, AKPABIO ETC

HAHAHAHA

GOD STILL LOVES US

The oyibo lie

Absolute truth.

Using the word "Nigeria" includes me and i feel that is insulting because i am Nigeria. i work for my money, i pay my tax and and a patriotic citizen at that.

i have never kidnapped anybody nor have held political office before. how then can we concluded that Nigeria is a country of kidnappers?

the word should be some Nigerians? someone should correct that nkita of a man

BULLSHIT!

The Topic's Caption is wrong!

So I wont read its content too...

Who is this roadside BBC reporter looking for cheap publicity? These days it seems if u want to get known or heard abroad u have to talk about Nigeria. Anyway that's his personal view nd opinion. Better people are also seeing great nd better things abt Nigeria.
Good people, great nation.

Ehen, mr oyibo next time stay in ur country, u tink say na 1910 wen una come here colonize us wit una small brain. Mtchewww

[color=#000099][/color]

Built2last: Using the word "Nigeria" includes me and i feel that is insulting because i am Nigeria. i work for my money, i pay my tax and and a patriotic citizen at that.

i have never kidnapped anybody nor have held political office before. how then can we concluded that Nigeria is a country of kidnappers?

the word should be some Nigerians? someone should correct that nkita of a man

This is an example of how this people portrays our nationality to the rest of the world
God be the judge

Nigeria is an interesting place to liive..One love

I love my country.
God Bless Nigeria & Nigerians.

nice piece

So, which of all these is false?

Again, d TITLE given by a Sillly @OP and an equali Sillly MOD on NL, is diff from d main body of the article...

Ibanga p: Who is this roadside BBC reporter looking for cheap publicity? These days it seems if u want to get known or heard abroad u have to talk about Nigeria. Anyway that's his personal view nd opinion. Better people are also seeing great nd better things abt Nigeria.
Good people, great nation.

Oga Ade, shey u don read the writeup?
Kai...Read before you comment, The headline is confusing though

These whiteman should shut up. Till I brb

We will get there

Hmmm

I like his wife courageous response.

I spent some time talking to my
wife Jo and children about the prospect of
going to Nigeria.
Jo’s attitude was : “For God’s sake, this is
exactly what you love doing. The more
dangerous a place the better the stories.
You’ll be able to show off and bore people
senseless about roadblocks, men with guns
and how brave you are”.

This feels like a nollywood movie to me.

The caption of this story is misleading.
Should have read : My Misconception About Nigeria- A BIG LIE (David Hayward)

Well, the caption may conflict with the content to some extent but the fact still remains that Nigeria has no good image among the international community and it is ridiculously embarrassing that Nigerian leaders threw Nigeria into the mess! Nigeria is the world laughing-stock. Since i was little, i have always been taught that leaders lead my example but not even one person out of Nigeria's present leaders can be said to be a hero or to have led by example except negative attributes. No leader aspires public office with open mind of selfless service, all they do is to enslave the people. This has made Nigeria and Nigerians so debased that even baby countries now deport Nigeria. Imagine Guinea, Ghana and more recently Tunisia deported Nigerians. I swear we don suffer! The worse part is that the so called leaders are not even ready to repent and all the retribution falls on the masses. It is really cumbersome, burdensome, worriome and damn tiresome! *SMH* i have a dream that one day, Muslims and Christians will put aside their chronic differences and pull the government down to pave way for the needed change.

Good spots in an otherwise stretch-marked backside

I wish our politicians will read this.

Okiki_Oluwa: These whiteman should shut up. Till I brb

Reason why you shouldn't comment based on the thread's title.

For the period of 3yrs I studied in britain I noticed they all had the same impression abt Africa. My classmate was asked if he could use a computer and they believe all of Africa is a jungle full of trees and Wild life.

But the caption of ds thread is quite different frm d content na....abi i dey slp? I did nt see where he concluded dat naija is a land of corrupt politicians or kidnappers. That was his 1st perceptn bt he was disappointd wen he got to asaba.