larosa:


This particular dress has a very full flare. I added
7.5 inches on each side of the six pieces panel.

@larosa: so each of the panel gets 7.5" at the hem (ie 3.5" on each side of the panel) OR how is 7.5" added to the panels?

The first option would make for a very, very full hemline, a short or petite person can be overwhelmed by that much volume at the hemline, no?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge...much appreciated!

bimbam:


@larosa: so each of the panel gets 7.5" at the hem (ie 3.5" on each side of the panel) OR how is 7.5" added to the panels?

The first option would make for a very, very full hemline, a short or petite person can be overwhelmed by that much volume at the hemline, no?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge...much appreciated!

Hello and thanks. Yes 7.5 was added to each side of the panels. I did mention d flare is quite full.

You made a very good point but i don't think a petite person would be overwhelmed for example look at the dresses worn by the latina flamenco dancers very very full but they carry it off and even dance with it.

However, the flare may still be reduced to what d wearer is comfortable with. You could even cut it to be a knee length dress.

Cheers and catch u later.

Now lets focus on the upper front part of our dress (the bodice).

1. By the time you cut out your pattern on fold it should look like the first drawing below.

2. Sew up the bust and waist darts (remember to stop 1" away from the n+pple area. Do same for the lining.

3. In pattern piece no. 2, we dont want the waist dart joint to show in the band so we have to get rid of it. This is done by closing out the dart. Place on folded fabric edge and cut. Iron gumstay to the wrong side of your fabric. Cut lining to the same shape.

4. Join the fabric of piece no. 1 to its own lining by sewing along the area i marked with red pen (drawing no. 2). Notch the curve from the inside .

5. Join Piece 1 to 2.

6. Add your desired flare to each of the lower panels and join up the front of the dress.

7. The back is pretty straight forward however dont forget your zipper allowance.

8. Join the back upper piece to its lining sewing along the neck curve, then join to the lower panels after flaring out.

9. It may be easier for some people to attach the zipper before joining to the front part of the dress but i usually prefer to insert zip after the whole dress is complete. You could use open & close zip or invisible zip.

10. Join shoulders and sides of the dress all the way down.

11. The dress has a small cap sleeve of 4" length (Please refer to my lesson on sleeve cutting on page 6 of this thread).

12. attach the sleeve.

13. I used an industrial machine to weave the hem of the dress but you could fold it in and sew if you are up to it.

14. The dress is ready, let me know if you need and clarifications.

Now, i did say earlier that its been quite busy over here so lets post some pix .

This is Ozioma. She is taking a crash course in pattern drafting/sewing as she is off to her Masters abroad shortly. I must say its been a while i saw someone with this level of determination and focus. For someone who could not even thread a machine on the first day, she made the below skirt on her second day of class

This is Esther and Ozioma analyzing a dress made by Ozioma on her 6th day of class.

Client's work:

Green skirt and blouse. The skirt has black pleated godets inserted back and front.

This dress is an empire waist suit gown made with Italian wool. Its a remake of the dress worn by Kris Jenner but we "Africanized" it by using ankara for the collar and sleeve cuffs. The Ankara is beaded.

Remake of my black/white/red dress i posted some pages back.

Beautiful work, larosa! Thanks for sharing...

HELP A SISTER OUT

Thanks to all instructors!

I am sorry for taking us back to the basics. I can't hide it anymore. Yes, I have been following this thread and learnt a lot. I can make wonderful pieces now but there is it one uphill task and that is how to CUT AND FIX SLEEVES TO FIT INTO THE ARMHOLE. Please don't refer me to previous posts. I have gone through them nth times but I can't still get it to fit my armhole. My sleeveless fit perfectly without bulge around the bustline.

Please I would love another beginner's illustration starting from the measurements to drafting the pattern.

Thanks a lot. #gratefulsoul#

juicypetal:
HELP A SISTER OUT

Thanks to all instructors!

I am sorry for taking us back to the basics. I can't hide it anymore. Yes, I have been following this thread and learnt a lot. I can make wonderful pieces now but there is it one uphill task and that is how to CUT AND FIX SLEEVES TO FIT INTO THE ARMHOLE. Please don't refer me to previous posts. I have gone through them nth times but I can't still get it to fit my armhole. My sleeveless fit perfectly without bulge around the bustline.

Please I would love another beginner's illustration starting from the measurements to drafting the pattern.

Thanks a lot. #gratefulsoul#

Hello, can you do something? I want see the pix of the last sleeve you tried to fix so I can try to find out the problem. Also how do u normally measure and cut
your sleeve?

@juicymetal:

Pls follow whatever larosa recommends, but what I usually do is cut the sleeve last after the shoulder and side seams have been joined (whether blouse or dress), use the armhole to "trace" the sleeve head making sure to add my seam allowance to this "tracing", then draw the rest of the sleeve using the arm width and sleeve length measurement to complete the sleeve. You can try cutting out in paper first to see if it will fit, and then cut out in fabric.

Also when sewing onto the garment, pins are your best friend! Pin first to make sure it will fit, if not you can make adjustments before sewing.

HTH, but I want to see how larosa's comments though...

@ bimbam great, I think your post would really help solve her problem. are you working on a sleeve at d moment so u could help by posting d pix?

larosa:


Hello, can you do something? I want see the pix of the last sleeve you tried to fix so I can try to find out the problem. Also how do u normally measure and cut
your sleeve?

Thanks for your prompt response. Truth be told last year was the last time I made an attempt to cut sleeves and since I didn't get it I kinda let it lie until now I want to start sewing again. In order to answer your question I had to try cutting out sleeves. I came up with this and it did fit perfectly now. I wonder why it didn't fit then though I doubt if it can be used for blouses except some alterations have to be made.

Explanations :
Pix 1. Along your folder fabric measure your sleeve length. beneath the measured sleeve length measure out your arm width. On top of the sleeve length measure out 9 inches or more depending if your sleeves will have gathers or pleats on your arm cup.

Pix2: measure out 9 inches diagonally from the point where your sleeve length met with the first horizontal 9 inches. Mark the point.

Pix 3: draw a curve from the tip of the sleeve length to marked 9 inches point.

Pix4: trace and cut out the cone shaped pattern

Pix5: open, tag and sew in the sleeve to the armhole.

#sorryforthelongtory#bearwithme#ibelearner#

larosa:
@ bimbam great, I think your post would really help solve her problem. are you working on a sleeve at d moment so u could help by posting d pix?

Just finished making a garment with sleeves, so I tried to draw it instead.

First picture is the finished garment after it has been sewn, but missing the sleeves.

Then I fold the garment (in this case a blouse) so that the back and front armhole on one side (left or right, doesn't matter) are even, i.e, the edges are together. I carefully lay the blouse on paper that is bigger than I actually need.

bimbam:

@juicymetal:

Pls follow whatever larosa recommends, but what I usually do is cut the sleeve last after the shoulder and side seams have been joined (whether blouse or dress), use the armhole to "trace" the sleeve head making sure to add my seam allowance to this "tracing", then draw the rest of the sleeve using the arm width and sleeve length measurement to complete the sleeve. You can try cutting out in paper first to see if it will fit, and then cut out in fabric.

Also when sewing onto the garment, pins are your best friend! Pin first to make sure it will fit, if not you can make adjustments before sewing.

HTH, but I want to see how larosa's comments though...

Thanks for your response. I am grateful. Does this method work with wrapper blouses?
#you're life saver#

Since the front and back edge of the armhole are even with each other from the previous step, I now trace the outline on the paper which is the red line in the picture below. Basically, you are drawing an "S" which forms the curve of the sleeve cap...

You will want to extend the line slightly down the side of the blouse to allow for the fact that you will need to sew a seam to take the sleeve from being a flat shape to a tube shape.

bimbam:


Then I fold the garment (in this case a blouse) so that the back and front armhole on one side (left or right, doesn't matter) are even, i.e, the edges are together. I carefully lay the blouse on paper that is bigger than I actually need.

Thanks so much. All these stress cos of me. I am humbled.

juicypetal:


Thanks so much. All these stress[s][/s] cos of me. I am humbled.

No stress... we are all here to learn. Maybe next time, you might be the one to help someone else out with an issue they might be having...

I then draw a vertical line starting from the shoulder seam of the blouse, which is equal to the sleeve length measurement (with 1" allowance added for top and bottom seams), and also draw another vertical line opposite that, making sure the distance of both vertical lines equals the arm width plus 1" seam allowance.

The horizontal line at the bottom that connects both vertical lines will be the bottom of the sleeve (which is either the arm, elbow or wrist measurement) depending on how long the sleeve will be. Again, make sure to add a 1" seam allowance.

Once the sleeve is traced/drawn on the paper, I now take that drawing (after cutting it out) and place it "on fold" on the actual fabric.

Once the sleeve is cut out in fabric, you can pin its side seam. Then "dry fit" it by pinning into the armhole of the garment armhole. You might need to increase/decrease seams (either on the blouse or the sleeve in case it does not fit)...

If you trace the first "S" line close to the outline of the armhole, you will or should get a good fit. Drawing an "S" like no. 3 in the picture below will give you gathers at the shoulder.

I know this is not the way the professionals do it, so @larosa, please give us the correct way...

juicypetal:


Thanks for your response. I am grateful. Does this method work with wrapper blouses?
#you're life saver#

@juicypetal:

If you mean the fitted blouse that is worn with a wrapper, then, yes, it should work. If on the other hand you mean the regular buba, then that is a different thing/method entirely...

juicypetal:



Pix 3: draw a curve from the tip of the sleeve length to marked 9 inches point.

Pix4: trace and cut out the cone shaped pattern

@juicymetal:

I think the reason you were having problems with the sleeve not fitting the armhole is because drawing a "curve" in pix 3 will mean your sleeve will not be long enough. You need to make the curve into an "S" shape which will add more length to the cap.

Take your tape measure, placing it on the edge (not flat, as when measuring) and measure your curve as you've shown it. Then take the tape measure the same way, and measure the armhole all the way around. You will find that these two measurement might not be the same. If you try and put an "s" shape to your sleeve head/cap and do the measuring on tape edge again, it might be closer to the measurement you got for your armhole...

bimbam:


@juicymetal:

I think the reason you were having problems with the sleeve not fitting the armhole is because drawing a "curve" in pix 3 will mean your sleeve will not be long enough. You need to make the curve into an "S" shape which will add more length to the cap.

Take your tape measure, placing it on the edge (not flat, as when measuring) and measure your curve as you've shown it. Then take the tape measure the same way, and measure the armhole all the way around. You will find that these two measurement might not be the same. If you try and put an "s" shape to your sleeve head/cap and do the measuring on tape edge again, it might be closer to the measurement you got for your armhole...

You are saying I should do it like this

@ bimbam wow you are so selfless I really appreciate this. Abeg forget this professional matter there are so many shortcuts that work and trust me when I say I learn every day myself

@ juicypetal immediately I saw your sleeve drawing I knew what d problem was. the upper part of your sleeve should not be a perfect semi circle. you have to dip down front and back especially in front . this allows for movement of your arms and a smoother finish. That is why you get what you called "s" shape.

juicypetal:


You are saying I should do it like this

Yes.

bimbam:


@juicymetal:

I think the reason you were having problems with the sleeve not fitting the armhole is because drawing a "curve" in pix 3 will mean your sleeve will not be long enough. You need to make the curve into an "S" shape which will add more length to the cap.

Take your tape measure, placing it on the edge (not flat, as when measuring) and measure your curve as you've shown it. Then take the tape measure the same way, and measure the armhole all the way around. You will find that these two measurement might not be the same. If you try and put an "s" shape to your sleeve head/cap and do the measuring on tape edge again, it might be closer to the measurement you got for your armhole...

I have cut and fixed my sleeve using the cone draft pattern. It was ok both in length and width cos that the armcup was flat like school uniform shirt. What I hope to do next when cutting another sleeve is to increase my horizontal 9 inches to 12 inches and gather the extra 3 inches @the armcup giving it a little puff.
My horizontal 9 inches worked for me cos when cutting my armhole I do put to factor that the maximum armhole is 9-9.5". My perfect armhole for sleeveless is 6.5" but will make it 7" when making a blouse for easy arm movement.
This is how I measure and cut my armhole :
From the shoulder I measure 6.5" or 7" as the case may be then I add the remaining 2.5" or 2" to make it 9". I then trace my curve from end of the 2"/2.5" to the vertical 6.5"/7".

Look at the pictures and drawing below. let me add that its important you cross check that your sleeve curve is long enough and even longer than the dress/blouse armhole unless you are doing a small cap sleeve that will not cover up to the armpit.

You would notice that in my drawing there is a dotted line running along the cap (upper part ) of the sleeve. I always sew a loose row of stitches about 1/2 inch away from the edge of my sleeve cap. i use this to guide me as i pin the sleeve to the dress. More importantly i pull on the excess thread to adjust the sleeve fabric and make sure it fits perfectly. I DON"T do without this step. Try it.

larosa:
Look at the pictures and drawing below. let me add that its important you cross check that your sleeve curve is long enough and even longer than the dress/blouse armhole unless you are doing a small cap sleeve that will not cover up to the armpit.

You would notice that in my drawing there is a dotted line running along the cap (upper part ) of the sleeve. I always sew a loose row of stitches about 1/2 inch away from the edge of my sleeve cap. i use this to guide me as i pin the sleeve to the dress. More importantly i pull on the excess thread to adjust the sleeve fabric and make sure it fits perfectly. I DON"T do without this step. Try it.

Thanks Ma'am! I 'd definitely try it and it's gonna turn out great. Enjoy a splendid day!