pragmatistm: I connected the sensor I mentioned then the car refused to start again.we disconnected it back but it refused to start still. The mechanic brought auto electrician and they managed to start it. He later called me that they discovered that another sensor was bad. My plan now is to go back and drain and clean the tranny oil and scan the car again to see if there is any new code. After then I will revert.

Seems we are going back to the original codes---crankshaft sensor, etc. At what point did the P0745 disappear? How come you didn't run the scan before handing it over to the mechanic? You never asked what the sensor was that was said to have gone bad. What do you mean by "drain and clean the tranny oil"? I'd suggest you leave the oil alone for the moment and run the scan. It just could be that the crankshaft sensor used was bad or even incompatible with your engine.
Btw, could you post a pix of the area where there was harness disconnection?

Costee:
Seems we are going back to the original codes---crankshaft sensor, etc. At what point did the P0745 disappear? How come you didn't run the scan before handing it over to the mechanic? You never asked what the sensor was that was said to have gone bad. What do you mean by "drain and clean the tranny oil"? I'd suggest you leave the oil alone for the moment and run the scan. It just could be that the crankshaft sensor used was bad or even incompatible with your engine.
Btw, could you post a pix of the area where there was harness disconnection?

Ok. I dont think its the same original crankshaft sensor because this time the kick starter does not roll at all. The starting lights just came on the dashboard but the engine remained quiet.

I could not scan the car before handing it over because I was rushing to work, so I just leave the key with the mechanic and left. I think he mentioned ignition sensor to me on phone but the network was bad but I didnt bother for I know I must run the scan again.

I dont know whether the P0745 is still there now for the car is not with me now. I may post the picture you requested later in the morning. Thanks.

**Modified
The mechanic came this morning that it was the starting switch that was bad and he removed it from the old engine to replace the bad one.

pragmatistm: I dont think its the same original crankshaft sensor because this time the kick starter does not roll at all...The mechanic came this morning that it was the starting switch that was bad and he removed it from the old engine to replace the bad one.

Good to hear.

Costee:
Good to hear.

My brother there is nothing good to hear yet. The switch swap didn't solve the problem. The car still refused to start. I think there is an open circuit in the ignition circuit. I have checked all the fuses one after the other but none was cut. I will continue after work today with the mechanic and auto electrician.

I ran the scan and it returned same error code P0745.

pragmatistm: My brother there is nothing good to hear yet. The switch swap didn't solve the problem. The car still refused to start. I think there is an open circuit in the ignition circuit. I have checked all the fuses one after the other but none was cut. I will continue after work today with the mechanic and auto electrician.

I ran the scan and it returned same error code P0745.

I'm doubtful of any connection between this code and the ignition issues that has suddenly come up. The P0745 is a transmission issue, the line pressure solenoid valve being a part of the valve body. If that part has gone faulty, then you'll need another valve body. But again, it could be the result of excessive dirt and debris obstucting proper flow through the solenoid. The recent work may have led to a recycle of debris-ladden oil hitherto at the bottom of the pan. I had a recent experience with the step motor, which also is apart of the valve body. The car just wouldn't move. Even after draining and replacing the transmission oil and thoroughly cleaning the oil pan and filter there was no improvement. I had given up hope when suddengly two days after I tried the car and after convulsing terribly returned to normalcy. (Miracle?) I think what happened was that new oil eventally forced its way past the dirty step motor during that convulsive process.

Costee:
I'm doubtful of any connection between this code and the ignition issues that has suddenly come up. The P0745 is a transmission issue, the line pressure solenoid valve being a part of the valve body. If that part has gone faulty, then you'll need another valve body. But again, it could be the result of excessive dirt and debris obstucting proper flow through the solenoid. The recent work may have led to a recycle of debris-ladden oil hitherto at the bottom of the pan. I had a recent experience with the stop motor, which also is apart of the valve body. The car just wouldn't move. Even after draining and replacing the transmission oil and througly cleaning the oil pan and filter there was no improvement. I had given up hope when suddengly two days after I tried the car and after convulsing terribly returned to normalcy. (Miracle?) I think what happened was that new oil eventally forced its way past the dirty step motor during that convulsive process.

OK. What part can be cheked to nail the ignition issue?

pragmatistm: OK. What part can be cheked to nail the ignition issue?

Lol. From bad alternator to failing fuel pump, there are a myriad reasons a car wouldn't start. That's the call of your auto electrician.
Btw, what's the colour of the disconnected socket your fixed back?

Have you tested your crank position sensor with a multimeter set on ac mode for a pulsating signal

Pls do that, to rule out your ckp sensor as culprit for no start .


In most cases, when the ckp fails, it doesn't throw up and dtc.


Cheers.

chillex8: Have you tested your crank position sensor with a multimeter set on ac mode for a pulsating signal

Pls do that, to rule out your ckp sensor as culprit for no start .


In most cases, when the ckp fails, it doesn't throw up and dtc.


Cheers.

Ok. I have got some ideas on testing the CKP sensor. I will test it. The kick starter doesnt roll at sll and its not faulty but I think a bad CKP will not prevent the kick starter from rolling at all. Or what do you think?

Costee:
Lol. From bad alternator to failing fuel pump, there are a myriad reasons a car wouldn't start. That's the call of your auto electrician.
Btw, what's the colour of the disconnected socket your fixed back?

Its colour white. Its on the transmission.You can see it as you look down from top and under the fuel filter behind the engine in front of driver's side. I have some pictures here. From the second picture you can see two holes where the two grey colour wires got removed.

chillex8: Have you tested your crank position sensor with a multimeter set on ac mode for a pulsating signal

Pls do that, to rule out your ckp sensor as culprit for no start .


In most cases, when the ckp fails, it doesn't throw up and dtc.


Cheers.

Ok. I have got some ideas on testing the CKP sensor. I will test it. But I think a bad CKP will not prevent the kick started from rolling at all. Or what do you think?

pragmatistm: Ok. I have got some ideas on testing the CKP sensor. I will test it. But I think a bad CKP will not prevent the kick started from rolling at all. Or what do you think?

Is your car cranking @ all.. If not, attend to your kick starter first

Try starting the car with ignition in ON, from the kick starter relay located in the fuse-box.

That way you can confirm if your kick-starter is ok..

If your car cranks and doesn't start, u might be dealing with a bad ckp sensor..

Was there anytime your car used to trip off in motion, or refuse to start after a long drive, but later start when allowed to cool

chillex8:


Is your car cranking @ all.. If not, attend to your kick starter first

kick starter is ok. The electrician tapped the battery to the kick starter and it started the car.

.

Its colour white. Its on the transmission.You can see it as you look down from top and under the fuel filter behind the engine in front of driver's side. I have some pictures here. From the second picture you can see two holes where the two grey colour wires got removed.

People, please if you are familiar with the cut connector as shown above,can you enlighten me on something? As the wires got removed from the two holes, I want to know if there is any fuse or sensor in that white plastic connector because Im planning to cut the wires attached to it and join the cut wires back eliminating the conmector.

Im planning this becauae I think this way since there is the other white plastic that looks like the main sensor still attached to the transmission. So please can I go ahead and do it that way as the plastic connector (shown on my last post above) refuses to open.

Does your car start now?

chillex8: Does your car start now?

No.

chillex8: Does your car start now?

No. I saw your email request. I replied so that you can email me.

pragmatistm: No. I saw your email request. I replied so that you can email me.

Pls drop your bbm pin let's discuss..

Chillex8@hotmail.com

pragmatistm: People, please if you are familiar with the cut connector as shown above,can you enlighten me on something? As the wires got removed from the two holes, I want to know if there is any fuse or sensor in that white plastic connector because Im planning to cut the wires attached to it and join the cut wires back eliminating the conmector.

Im planning this becauae I think this way since there is the other white plastic that looks like the main sensor still attached to the transmission. So please can I go ahead and do it that way as the plastic connector (shown on my last post above) refuses to open.

That's the Dropping Resistor. That's what led to the P0745 code. Even if your ignition issues were resolved the car will never move well if at all--you'll have shock shifts. Whether it's connected with the ignition issue I can't tell, but I'd advise you replace that resistor. Again, if it's of any help to you the part number is 31037-8E002. It is also used by the Primera P12 and the Almera Tino (2000-2003).
But then, I'm wondering: could it be that bad resistor has placed your car in fail-safe mode to prevent damage to the transmission? In order words your car/gear has been automatically placed in drive mode;and should that be so the car wouldn't start. So there could be a connection between that code and your ignition issues afterall.

Costee:
That's the Dropping Resistor. That's what led to the P0745 code. Even if your ignition issues were resolved the car will never move well if at all--you'll have shock shifts. Whether it's connected with the ignition issue I can't tell, but I'd advise you replace that resistor. Again, if it's of any help to you the part number is 31037-8E002. It is also used by the Primera P12 and the Almera Tino (2000-2003).
But then, I'm wondering: could it be that bad resistor has placed your car in fail-safe mode to prevent damage to the transmission? In order words your car/gear has been automatically placed in drive mode;and should that be so the car wouldn't start. So there could be a connection between that code and your ignition issues afterall.

very insighful, I must say. I have to urgently work on it. Thanks.

@ costee
We managed to re-connect the cut-away connector. The car now starts and drives without the earlier difficulty but with one issue left. When the CVT transmission changes from high gear to low it also immediately goes back to high gear. It will also attempt to change again but immediately, in less than two seconds, goes back to high gear.

This can be observed by the engine rpm going down and up again immediately rather staying down for higher speeds. Please what can be done now?

pragmatistm: @ costee
We managed to re-connect the cut-away connector. The car now starts and drives without the earlier difficulty but with one issue left. When the CVT transmission changes from high gear to low it also immediately goes back to high gear. It will also attempt to change again but immediately, in less than two seconds, goes back to high gear.

This can be observed by the engine rpm going down and up again immediately rather staying down for higher speeds. Please what can be done now?

That should be clear enough, isn't it ? You need a good resistor with a harness connector. Without the connector the resistor is not properly grounded. Is the SES light still on?

Costee:
That should be clear enough, isn't it ? You need a good resistor with a harness connector. Without the connector the resistor is not properly grounded. Is the SES light still on?

Thanks.
I think the connector is ok now. Before it was connected, the "sport mode" light unusually flashed when ignition was switched on. But now it has returned to normal working, the car does not drag again and the driving is smooth apart from the poor selection. We are in the process of trying to clean the magnetic filters in the transmission box right now to see if the selection will normalise.

But the SES light remains on. I want to clear it now and oberve it for some time.

pragmatistm: Thanks.
I think the connector is ok now. Before it was connected, the "sport mode" light unusually flashed when ignition was switched on. But now it has returned to normal working, the car does not drag again and the driving is smooth apart from the poor selection. We are in the process of trying to clean the magnetic filters in the transmission box right now to see if the selection will normalise.

But the SES light remains on. I want to clear it now and oberve it for some time.

I wish I could share your optimism. How can driving be smooth when there still is "poor selection"? You just want to wish the SES light away. It will go when all's well.

Costee:
I wish I could share your optimism. How can driving be smooth when there still is "poor selection"? You just want to wish the SES light away. It will go when all's well.

You must be a technical prophet . We actually cleaned the magnetic filters but all to no avail. The jerky selection continues and SES light remains.

The auto electrician alao discovered that the problem of engine not starting was due to worn out brush on the kick starter.

As you have suggested the poor selection only will go when the dropping resistor is changed, can you kindly give me an idea of the cost?

pragmatistm:
The auto electrician alao discovered that the problem of engine not starting was due to worn out brush on the kick starter.

As you have suggested the poor selection only will go when the dropping resistor is changed, can you kindly give me an idea of the cost?

Spare me! Is he now suggesting that it was a fluke that the car stated after patching up the damaged resistor wires?
As for the price of the resistor, I don't have the faintest idea.( Maybe between 2k and 3k). If possble post the pix of the unit. Check if it has a part number on it so you be sure when looking for a replacement.
Btw, you never shared with us knowledge of the price of the crankshaft sensor and torque converter you bought.

Costee:
Spare me! Is he now suggesting that it was a fluke that the car stated after patching up the damaged resistor wires?
As for the price of the resistor, I don't have the faintest idea.( Maybe between 2k and 3k). If possble post the pix of the unit. Check if it has a part number on it so you be sure when looking for a replacement.
Btw, you never shared with us knowledge of the price of the crankshaft sensor and torque converter you bought.

I spent 15k for the purchase of the crankshaft sensor, totque converter and the transport to Ladipo Lagos.

I will get the part number of the part out tomorrow, God's willing.

FYI, I have cleared the codes on the car tonight. Waiting to see if any returns again.

Double post.

Costee:
If possble post the pix of the unit. Check if it has a part number on it so you be sure when looking for a replacement.

I managed to get a picture of the dropping resistor though not very clear. Here it is attached. The part "A" is the resistor itself and part "B" is the bent metal part to which the damaged connector was attached.

The part number of the resistor is 31037 8E002 A15-000 A1394 21


***Modified
Just to let you know, the codes have not returned so far, the car drives ok, not jerking again. But I felt the tranny not selecting for there was no time the engine sound changed with a drop in engine RPM. When I drove it today, the dashboard was flashing between 30-35MPG with a speed up to 80km/hr but engine rev around 2000-2200 rpm seemed higher than before for that speed. Do you think there was a lack of proper tranny selection? Please give me your opinion so that I will know what to do concerning the dropping resistor.

pragmatistm: I managed to get a picture of the dropping resistor though not very clear. Here it is attached. The part "A" is the resistor itself and part "B" is the bent metal part to which the damaged connector was attached.

The part number of the resistor is 31037 8E002 A15-000 A1394 21


***Modified
Just to let you know, the codes have not returned so far, the car drives ok, not jerking again. But I felt the tranny not selecting for there was no time the engine sound changed with a drop in engine RPM. When I drove it today, the dashboard was flashing between 30-35MPG with a speed up to 80km/hr but engine rev around 2000-2200 rpm seemed higher than before for that speed. Do you think there was a lack of proper tranny selection? Please give me your opinion so that I will know what to do concerning the dropping resistor.

Somehow, you always want to give postive results against all odds. You say car drives ok, yet you feel lack of proper tranny selection. Well, lets watch if codes return, though I'd still suggest that resistor is replaced. Since it's CVT, is the change in gear selection not supposed to be imperceptible? Again, I think 2-2.2k rpm is ok for 80km/hr. I don't understand want you mean by "the dashboard was flashing between 30-35MPG"? Does your car indicate mpg while driving? If so, is it not calculated in L/100km since your odometer is in km? Make sure too that the tranny fluid is properly gauged.
I'm happy you were able to identify that part number (31037-8E002). It shows we've made the correct diagnosis and dealing with the right component.

Costee:
Somehow, you always want to give postive results against all odds. You say car drives ok, yet you feel lack of proper tranny selection. Well, lets watch if codes return, though I'd still suggest that resistor is replaced. Since it's CVT, is the change in gear selection not supposed to be imperceptible? Again, I think 2-2.2k rpm is ok for 80km/hr. I don't understand want you mean by "the dashboard was flashing between 30-35MPG"? Does your car indicate mpg while driving? If so, is it not calculated in L/100km since your odometer is in km? Make sure too that the tranny fluid is properly gauged.
I'm happy you were able to identify that part number (31037-8E002). It shows we've made the correct diagnosis and dealing with the right component.

The CVT first gear change had always being noticeable but others are not. At least as far as my car had been before the fault on this thread came up.

That's the MPG while driving. But I don't know how it's calculated.

I have drained and cleaned the tranny fluid and its to gauge for I topped it up with the left-over fluid I used before and re-gauged it .

pragmatistm: The CVT first gear change had always being noticeable but others are not. At least as far as my car had been before the fault on this thread came up.

That's the MPG while driving. But I don't know how it's calculated.

I have drained and cleaned the tranny fluid and its to gauge for I topped it up with the left-over fluid I used before and re-gauged it .

By calculated I also meant indicated. If in indeed it means you have 30-35mpg then that's very good. It means you use less than 12 litres/100km...highway driving I guess.