sultaan:
If the bearings were mismatched it could be a problem, if the bearings were damaged on some cylinders and those were the only ones replaced it is better to replace all so they are worn evenly.That will take care of possibility of metal shavings in the near future. on top there is a video for valve adjustment the specs might not be what your mechanic is used to so he has to use the one written on the inside of the hood it has the spark plug spec and gap too if the valves are good and the cam lobes are right there should be no tapping.

Multiple misfire might be coil wires installed on wrong coil/cylinder it can happen


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7wI4EtZSaA

First let me inform you guys that i drove to Abuja safely with no new issues or increase in the sound. I tried my best to limit rpm to 2000 meaning i drove very slow ranging from 60 to 100km/h.

All bearings were changed. New ones are not available for this engine anywhere in Apo, Zuba, Kaduna or Jos that we made contacts trying to source it. The installed crank shaft was taken from a donor engine in Zuba mechanic village looking almost new with serial no and bar code sticker on its counter weight. There were 2 stickers on it and the journals were guaged before purchase. It came complete and exactly like the one removed with the pulse plate and all its accessories. I didnt take a shot as it was 5pm on saturday and i wanted work to begin immediately as the guy threatened to shut down till monday.

I wasnt around the two times he claimed to have adjusted valves. Valves are not that noisy anyway. I have the car's service manual which i printed the page and gave the guy for the right feeler guage. Whether he used it, i dont know. Plugs are not spec since what i saw there is champion plugs. I feel the plugs may not be that bad to cause a misfire. The misfire is not permanent and occurs mostly when engine is started after it was worked on.

Coil wires cannot be installed on another cylinder because it is fixed and cant extend to another cylinder.

GAZZUZZ:
Using a wrong crankshaft could also cause same issues.

Check that they are same part number.


I'm sure it's not the valves touching the pistons.

Yes, i agree. I am not sure of the part number since i didnt check to confirm. Its too late to do that since the engine is running on it unless cardoctor who is our last consultant wants to get down there with assurance.

There are several reasons why i think is a valve hitting piston problem.

1. After the crankshaft was installed and engine assembled, there was a point engine did stop rotation. We didnt know what it was. Oil sump and pump were removed again and checked. Everything was ok but rotation will still stop after few turns. That was the 1st time the cylinder head came off on suspision that there is accumulated carbon deposits. It was true and carbon was cleared. The engine without the cylinder head rotated beautifully. The head was reinstalled and the rotation cycled with no obstruction. Upon starting, we got that sound. I felt that the new sound was the result of the initial obstruction to rotation which was only made less by decarbonizing. I figured there is still contact but not enough to stall rotation. Since the head came off and the engine block rotated beautifully, the problem is either on the head cylinder or in between it and the engine block not below.

2. Valve-piston contact is very possible because the engine is designed with very little space between them. Meaning, if timing chain breaks while valves are open and there is piston movement, contact will definately be made. I have experienced this about 4 times when timing belt of 96 accord broke. Valves were destroyed in te process. Other causes i have read include weak valve spring (i will check for this) and bad timing between camshaft and cranshaft.

Pardon me for lengthy descriptions.

adanny01:


Yes, i agree. I am not sure of the part number since i didnt check to confirm. Its too late to do that since the engine is running on it unless cardoctor who is our last consultant wants to get down there with assurance.

There are several reasons why i think is a valve hitting piston problem.

1. After the crankshaft was installed and engine assembled, there was a point engine did stop rotation. We didnt know what it was. Oil sump and pump were removed again and checked. Everything was ok but rotation will still stop after few turns. That was the 1st time the cylinder head came off on suspision that there is accumulated carbon deposits. It was true and carbon was cleared. The engine without the cylinder head rotated beautifully. The head was reinstalled and the rotation cycled with no obstruction. Upon starting, we got that sound. I felt that the new sound was the result of the initial obstruction to rotation which was only made less by decarbonizing. I figured there is still contact but not enough to stall rotation. Since the head came off and the engine block rotated beautifully, the problem is either on the head cylinder or in between it and the engine block not below.

2. Valve-piston contact is very possible because the engine is designed with very little space between them. Meaning, if timing chain breaks while valves are open and there is piston movement, contact will definately be made. I have experienced this about 4 times when timing belt of 96 accord broke. Valves were destroyed in te process. Other causes i have read include weak valve spring (i will check for this) and bad timing between camshaft and cranshaft.

Pardon me for lengthy descriptions.

Do a cylinder compression test to rule it out. You don't need any fancy tool, just buy a couple of sparkplug defoulers like 5 of them, bolt them up together, screw into sparkplug position place thumb over opening and u should be able to feel the bad one out with the engine running. (I know this is kazeemy)

GAZZUZZ:


Do a cylinder compression test to rule it out. You don't need any fancy tool, just buy a couple of sparkplug defoulers like 5 of them, bolt them up together, screw into sparkplug position place thumb over opening and u should be able to feel the bad one out with the engine running. (I know this is kazeemy)

I like it but my spirit is down right now with report coming in from my friends meeting with cardoctor. I am at work so couldnt go. Getting that size of defouler will be a big task.

His comments i expected will point the problem or kill the matter. He has opted to kill the matter by buying a new head or straight engine. Thats his position which i believe came out of much experience. All mechanics now say the same thing, retire the engine.

I dont want to give up but i cant give my friend assurances either. With the new decision, he has lost alot of money already. I wouldnt want to make him lose more.

However, i tried Piyke's improvised stethoscope thingy, just like i said before the sound is confirmed to be from the front (intake side) of the engine not the back (exhaust). The sound is obviously highest at the middle btween cylinder 2 and 3 and exactly at the position where the head gasket is.

I listened from that position at the front and back of the engine and the sound is incomparable with the front even not eaaily accessible because of the intake manifold but loudest. At the valve cover, everything is quiet and calm.

I am positively sure, 1 or 2 intake valves is hitting the piston of either cylinder 2 or 3. What i can do now is limited to checking the valve spring and lash for the two cylinders. Any more will incure expenses that i wont put my friend. Make im no think say i carry im car do experiment!

adanny01:


I like it but my spirit is down right now with report coming in from my friends meeting with cardoctor. I am at work so couldnt go. Getting that size of defouler will be a big task.

His comments i expected will point the problem or kill the matter. He has opted to kill the matter by buying a new head or straight engine. Thats his position which i believe came out of much experience. All mechanics now say the same thing, retire the engine.

I dont want to give up but i cant give my friend assurances either. With the new decision, he has lost alot of money already. I wouldnt want to make him lose more.

However, i tried Piyke's improvised stethoscope thingy, just like i said before the sound is confirmed to be from the front (intake side) of the engine not the back (exhaust). The sound is obviously highest at the middle btween cylinder 2 and 3 and exactly at the position where the head gasket is.

I listened from that position at the front and back of the engine and the sound is incomparable with the front even not eaaily accessible because of the intake manifold but loudest. At the valve cover, everything is quiet and calm.

I am positively sure, 1 or 2 intake valves is hitting the piston of either cylinder 2 or 3. What i can do now is limited to checking the valve spring and lash for the two cylinders. Any more will incure expenses that i wont put my friend. Make im no think say i carry im car do experiment!

I was the first person that told you to buy engine o!

Meanwhile leave the car for a day or 2 and go back in again. This time take it apart. And see what is wrong, from that you can decide to buy top, bottom or whole engine. Or even decide to repair.

Lol

You were not the first.

This afternoon, the sound stopped intermittently about 3 times during idle. It just quietly died down only to start again some seconds later.

There is hope but nobody wants to believe.

adanny01:
Lol

You were not the first.

This afternoon, the sound stopped intermittently about 3 times during idle. It just quietly died down only to start again some seconds later.

There is hope but nobody wants to believe.

I really wish you the best in this endeavor because it can be done. At least you have got a service manual, what you need is someone who will follow it religiously.

The challenges include the near total absence of new OEM engine parts but used parts with guarantees not worth much, the time it takes to bring new OEM parts from outside the country, the cost of bringing them from outside, mechanics who will not listen to the voice of wisdom ( that is manufacturer service procedure), mechanics that feel that the cost of labour exceeds the money paid to perform the service and will deny them easy jobs that bring in much more to a difficult job that brings in so little profit, lack of a registry of certified engine rebuilders, to mention but a few.

If you look at it from the above lenses, you will see why Gazzuzz recommended as above, and now Cardoctor has done the same, and why most Nigerians prefer to replace the engine once and for all and be done with it.

Like I said it can be done, it will take your time, and your money, your patience, and your stress and your involvement.

Question is, at the end of the day, will it be worth it? The pain versus gain debate.

Following the thread quietly all along, but since you have got the passion, keep it up, you might be rewarded for all the stress!

If I were in your shoes, I would most likely have done the same.

IdaraCHODB:


I really wish you the best in this endeavor because it can be done. At least you have got a service manual, what you need is someone who will follow it religiously.

The challenges include the near total absence of new OEM engine parts but used parts with guarantees not worth much, the time it takes to bring new OEM parts from outside the country, the cost of bringing them from outside, mechanics who will not listen to the voice of wisdom ( that is manufacturer service procedure), mechanics that feel that the cost of labour exceeds the money paid to perform the service and will deny them easy jobs that bring in much more to a difficult job that brings in so little profit, lack of a registry of certified engine rebuilders, to mention but a few.

If you look at it from the above lenses, you will see why Gazzuzz recommended as above, and now Cardoctor has done the same, and why most Nigerians prefer to replace the engine once and for all and be done with it.

Like I said it can be done, it will take your time, and your money, your patience, and your stress and your involvement.

Question is, at the end of the day, will it be worth it? The pain versus gain debate.

Following the thread quietly all along, but since you have got the passion, keep it up, you might be rewarded for all the stress!

If I were in your shoes, I would most likely have done the same.

I wish to thank you for the kind words of encouragement. Fortunately enough, it came on the day when finally unplanned success was made.

Finally, the engine can be revved up till the limitter kicks in. I never knew that the oil pump must be set in time. Meaning the there is a specific setting for oil pump at cylinder#1 TDC. I never looked at that part of the service manual and the mechanic who did the crank shaft job didnt know the exact setting too. So they messed up setting the oil pump to bump into cylinder #2 and 3.

I will explain further when get home.

adanny01:


I wish to thank you for the kind words of encouragement. Fortunately enough, it came on the day when finally unplanned success was made.

Finally, the engine can be revved up till the limitter kicks in. I never knew that the oil pump must be set in time. Meaning the there is a specific setting for oil pump at cylinder#1 TDC. I never looked at that part of the service manual and the mechanic who did the crank shaft job didnt know the exact setting too. So they messed up setting the oil pump to bump into cylinder #2 and 3.

I will explain further when get home.

Having a manual makes a world of difference we can all give ideas based on general knowledge but having specific information makes things a lot easier now your kazeem can now boast he his capable of rebuilding Honda engines he learnt roo

I didnt go to work so my friend asked me to help him fix coolant leakage at the thermostat housing. The engine oil was getting contaminated with ground metalic particles making the oil look strangely coloured. A different menchanic was used so i described our predicament. He listened very well and then squat on his knees to hear the bottom. He asked me for permission to open the bottom oil pan. I agreed knowing my friend will not be pleased i am encouraging him to spend more money after experienced people have given their virdicts.

The mechanic proceeded and discovered sludge of wearing .metal and the connecting rod end cap bolts were the ones a making contact with the oil pump balancer shafts at positions shown in the picture below. I thought whether Honda didnt think that those could meet hitting themselves but why it didnt happen before? They thought so thats why they had a procedure and markings for installing the pump just like that of timing. My little online search revealed that the mark on the oil pump sprocket should be around 7o'clock.while the engine is set at cylinder #1 TDC. That will effectively ensure the bolts will not hit the balancer. My previous mechanics obviously didnt know that and so they might have installed the pump with sprocket mark at 12o'clock just like the crank shaft would have been set at cylinder #1TDC. That was their gross mistake. I made an attempt to tell this mechanic, he said he knew very well how to set oil pump timing. He eventually did very well.

However, things didnt just go so smooth. I remembered the last mechanic saying that the oil pump had its own bearing and also had no explanation for the metalic stained oil pan and oil. I imagined that all the hits this oil pump took, something may have suffered. Just when the pump was to be reinstalled, i paused him and asked to inspect the pump myself. I shook the 1st balancer and was firm. I shook the 2nd and it was seriously gapped and wobbly. I called his attention. We discovered the bearings was almost totally worn probably due to the hit. Thats the source of ground metal in the engine oil and oil pan. That was 6pm, we were lucky to get it at Apo mechanic village.

Now, i cant tell you the huge relieve i have had. My friend had to verbarly express his gratitude for all my selfless sacrifice and comittment to solving his headache. My drive home was so sweet i maintained 140km/h with a/c cooling my nerves.

adanny01:
I didnt go to work so my friend asked me to help him fix coolant leakage at the thermostat housing. The engine oil was getting contaminated with ground metalic particles making the oil look strangely coloured. A different menchanic was used so i described our predicament. He listened very well and then squat on his knees to hear the bottom. He asked me for permission to open the bottom oil pan. I agreed knowing my friend will not be pleased i am encouraging him to spend more money after experienced people have given their virdicts.

The mechanic proceeded and discovered sludge of wearing .metal and the connecting rod end cap bolts were the ones a making contact with the oil pump balancer shafts at positions shown in the picture below. I thought whether Honda didnt think that those could meet hitting themselves but why it didnt happen before? They thought so thats why they had a procedure and markings for installing the pump just like that of timing. My little online search revealed that the mark on the oil pump sprocket should be around 7o'clock.while the engine is set at cylinder #1 TDC. That will effectively ensure the bolts will not hit the balancer. My previous mechanics obviously didnt know that and so they might have installed the pump with sprocket mark at 12o'clock just like the crank shaft would have been set at cylinder #1TDC. That was their gross mistake. I made an attempt to tell this mechanic, he said he knew very well how to set oil pump timing. He eventually did very well.

However, things didnt just go so smooth. I remembered the last mechanic saying that the oil pump had its own bearing and also had no explanation for the metalic stained oil pan and oil. I imagined that all the hits this oil pump took, something may have suffered. Just when the pump was to be reinstalled, i paused him and asked to inspect the pump myself. I shook the 1st balancer and was firm. I shook the 2nd and it was seriously gapped and wobbly. I called his attention. We discovered the bearings was almost totally worn probably due to the hit. Thats the source of ground metal in the engine oil and oil pan. That was 6pm, we were lucky to get it at Apo mechanic village.

Now, i cant tell you the huge relieve i have had. My friend had to verbarly express his gratitude for all my selfless sacrifice and comittment to solving his headache. My drive home was so sweet i maintained 140km/h with a/c cooling my nerves.

I love the dogged determination. #teamfactoryrepairmanual

hmmm am so happy for you, at least ur problem is solved,
when errthing is over i'd like you too give me an estimate off the money u spent

chukel:
I love the dogged determination. #teamfactoryrepairmanual

Thanks so much. If only our mechanics can have access to service manuals, they will be better. I remember the mechanic who worked on the crankshaft struggling to align the intake and exhaust camshafts. I suggested the process in the service manual and he ignored me. I allowed him suffer as long as the end product will be the same. Surprisingly, when he had to reset the timing after taking the chain off, he followed my advice pinning the two camshafts in position at the camshaft position sensor side. He didnt know that the holes provided there were to fix them exactly in position while chain is being installed. Am sure he learned.

Readonee35L:
hmmm am so happy for you, at least ur problem is solved,
when errthing is over i'd like you too give me an estimate off the money u spent

Thanks again. With regards to the cost of the engine job, it is relatively cheap except for labour especially the Abuja one. Whole camshaft plus VTC actuator is N6,500. Other ones are silicon gum and fuel while labour was N10,000.

The 2nd job was outside abj but the part was sourced in Abj. Crankshaft and bearing N25,000, silicon gum, fuel and labour N5,000. Labour was cut low because the whole job was considered unsuccessful and a mere waste of money and energy. This once suffered more since the took down the engine twice and worked even on sunday. I guess if they did set the oil pump well they would not have droped the engine the second time and would have earned more than what they got with better client and labour satisfaction. I will call and let them know of their mistake.

Put the total at N65,000 including yesterdays oil pump bearing, silicon gum, fuel and labour. Its acceptable compared to the N300,000 dealers have quoted for the engine.

adanny01:


Thanks so much. If only our mechanics can have access to service manuals, they will be better. I remember the mechanic who worked on the crankshaft struggling to align the intake and exhaust camshafts. I suggested the process in the service manual and he ignored me. I allowed him suffer as long as the end product will be the same. Surprisingly, when he had to reset the timing after taking the chain off, he followed my advice pinning the two camshafts in position at the camshaft position sensor side. He didnt know that the holes provided there were to fix them exactly in position while chain is being installed. Am sure he learned.



Thanks again. With regards to the cost of the engine job, it is relatively cheap except for labour especially the Abuja one. Whole camshaft plus VTC actuator is N6,500. Other ones are silicon gum and fuel while labour was N10,000.

The 2nd job was outside abj but the part was sourced in Abj. Crankshaft and bearing N25,000, silicon gum, fuel and labour N5,000. Labour was cut low because the whole job was considered unsuccessful and a mere waste of money and energy. This once suffered more since the took down the engine twice and worked even on sunday. I guess if they did set the oil pump well they would not have droped the engine the second time and would have earned more than what they got with better client and labour satisfaction. I will call and let them know of their mistake.

Put the total at N65,000 including yesterdays oil pump bearing, silicon gum, fuel and labour. Its acceptable compared to the N300,000 dealers have quoted for the engine.

So great to hear!!! Guess a lot of changed engines could be salvaged by persistence

adanny01:


Thanks so much. If only our mechanics can have access to service manuals, they will be better. I remember the mechanic who worked on the crankshaft struggling to align the intake and exhaust camshafts. I suggested the process in the service manual and he ignored me. I allowed him suffer as long as the end product will be the same. Surprisingly, when he had to reset the timing after taking the chain off, he followed my advice pinning the two camshafts in position at the camshaft position sensor side. He didnt know that the holes provided there were to fix them exactly in position while chain is being installed. Am sure he learned.



Thanks again. With regards to the cost of the engine job, it is relatively cheap except for labour especially the Abuja one. Whole camshaft plus VTC actuator is N6,500. Other ones are silicon gum and fuel while labour was N10,000.

The 2nd job was outside abj but the part was sourced in Abj. Crankshaft and bearing N25,000, silicon gum, fuel and labour N5,000. Labour was cut low because the whole job was considered unsuccessful and a mere waste of money and energy. This once suffered more since the took down the engine twice and worked even on sunday. I guess if they did set the oil pump well they would not have droped the engine the second time and would have earned more than what they got with better client and labour satisfaction. I will call and let them know of their mistake.

Put the total at N65,000 including yesterdays oil pump bearing, silicon gum, fuel and labour. Its acceptable compared to the N300,000 dealers have quoted for the engine.

oh thats nice
i hope the enigne is very sound now,
with all this work i doubt if its still going to be very quiet,
is it still throwing any error codes?

Readonee35L:

oh thats nice
i hope the enigne is very sound now,
with all this work i doubt if its still going to be very quiet,
is it still throwing any error codes?

The sound is unbelievable, you will be shocked. The valves are more quiet than my EOD that has never been opened.

There has been no permanent error code since the VTC actuator was changed and plug to the temp sensor 2 was put in order.

The only one that comes once a while and goes off itself is P0420 Catalyst efficiency below threshold. My EOD has that too but it goes off itself on both cars. Right now there is no error code.

Awesome, Congratulations!

Awesome Indeed

@adanny01 could u pls post a picture of ur friends car u so worked on with so much perseverance. M sure ur all smiles now.

chukel:
I love the dogged determination. #teamfactoryrepairmanual

Team wind engine a couple of rotations b4 installing.

dumo1:
@adanny01 could u pls post a picture of ur friends car u so worked on with so much perseverance. M sure ur all smiles now.

Yes sir.

Dont mind the mileage, am sure its one of those roll backs.

The only warning light remaining is TPMS which is beyond my ELM327 bluetooth device.

GAZZUZZ:


Team wind engine a couple of rotations b4 installing.

Yea, only that you will not know it makes a strange sound unless it is revolving fast and on its own.

Does the car shift smoothly?(I mean the gearbox)

@ adanny01 the car still looks good pls do keep to the recommended manufacturers schedule & this vehicle would last u for years to come

dumo1:
@ adanny01 the car still looks good pls do keep to the recommended manufacturers schedule & this vehicle would last u for years to come

I said in the opening post, the car isnt mine although i use it very often. I will do my best to keep it in shape.

Thank you.

Inception:
Does the car shift smoothly?(I mean the gearbox)

Up shift is good although not as good as my untempered 03 accord especially during hard acceleration. One thing i love about the 08 is the instantenous down shift with very little trottle effort. In my 03, you sometimes need a harder push on the trottle to have it downshit for acceleration. I feel its more of a design problem that a mechanical one. Not forgeting that the 03 trottle is drive by wire while 08 is electric. Electric is softer but its gear response to me is more of an advancement in technology.

Well I think you should take this vehicle to standard workshop For comprehensive diagnosis ,let check all necessary area and if you don't know any around abj ,check for Automedics center in Abj or call 08023284076 for further inquiries. Thanks

stephcruse:
Well I think you should take this vehicle to standard workshop For comprehensive diagnosis ,let check all necessary area and if you don't know any around abj ,check for Automedics center in Abj or call 08023284076 for further inquiries. Thanks

For now, i am tired of going to the mechanics. Besides each time i take the car to mechanic, i have to leave work early and also have to give my friend my car. He is not a very careful driver so you know what my less troublesome car takes. Let my car rest for a while and let his feel its rightful owner. Or may be, he can take it himself. I will call the number when ready.

Adanny, very educative post I must say. I M a regular guy on nairaland but I usually do not go beyond the front page as I am a very busy person snd I use front page to keep myself abreast of important info.

I stumbled on this whilst doing a google search as to why my 08 accord makes that noise from cold start and was startled by the revelations especially the one where it was stated that it is a general Honda 08 issue.

I bought my car from someone I know and I never really bothered to check anything major. He just informed me that he will change the ac compressor which has been working well since then (bought the car in febraury).

To be very honest the car has never given me any major issues except normal servicing which I do every 3 months based on the percentage oil change indicator.

Ok, there was a time the left side shaft pulled out after I made a sharp turn with the reverse gear. It did not engage in gear again and luckily I had boys around who helped pushed to my office cos I was very close anyway. I bought a new shaft but was surprised when after 1 month I started hearing the noise again but chose to ignore till date till next service.

I plan to get in touch with GAGUNZ.

Gagunz, I invited u on bb please accept. My pin is masked as folkows 7b****21. I hope to scan first, to know wgat all errors could be before any thing. I hope youvare not expensive o. Lol

Regards to all the experts in the house who try to ensure that our babies get the best of care...**winks**

Lexaccord:
Adanny, very educative post I must say. I M a regular guy on nairaland but I usually do not go beyond the front page as I am a very busy person snd I use front page to keep myself abreast of important info.

I stumbled on this whilst doing a google search as to why my 08 accord makes that noise from cold start and was startled by the revelations especially the one where it was stated that it is a general Honda 08 issue.

I bought my car from someone I know and I never really bothered to check anything major. He just informed me that he will change the ac compressor which has been working well since then (bought the car in febraury).

To be very honest the car has never given me any major issues except normal servicing which I do every 3 months based on the percentage oil change indicator.

Ok, there was a time the left side shaft pulled out after I made a sharp turn with the reverse gear. It did not engage in gear again and luckily I had boys around who helped pushed to my office cos I was very close anyway. I bought a new shaft but was surprised when after 1 month I started hearing the noise again but chose to ignore till date till next service.

I plan to get in touch with GAGUNZ.

Gagunz, I invited u on bb please accept. My pin is masked as folkows 7b****21. I hope to scan first, to know wgat all errors could be before any thing. I hope youvare not expensive o. Lol

Regards to all the experts in the house who try to ensure that our babies get the best of care...**winks**

How timely, 2days ago, i watched as a well dressed man was walking to his car at a car park of a hospital in KD. The man walked to an 08 Accord and after he started it, i just shook my head and just imagined that that is really a general issue with that car.

On the shaft issue, please dont waste more money on it, ask GAZZUZZ to get you a certified belgium (toks) complete shaft. It comes with the both CV Joints and booth. That will last longer than any new shaft you will buy new locally. My friend in abj changed his shaft more than 5 times in two weeks till he got a belgium one which he used till he sold the car with zero shaft problems.

Lexaccord:
Adanny, very educative post I must say. I M a regular guy on nairaland but I usually do not go beyond the front page as I am a very busy person snd I use front page to keep myself abreast of important info.

I stumbled on this whilst doing a google search as to why my 08 accord makes that noise from cold start and was startled by the revelations especially the one where it was stated that it is a general Honda 08 issue.

I bought my car from someone I know and I never really bothered to check anything major. He just informed me that he will change the ac compressor which has been working well since then (bought the car in febraury).

To be very honest the car has never given me any major issues except normal servicing which I do every 3 months based on the percentage oil change indicator.

Ok, there was a time the left side shaft pulled out after I made a sharp turn with the reverse gear. It did not engage in gear again and luckily I had boys around who helped pushed to my office cos I was very close anyway. I bought a new shaft but was surprised when after 1 month I started hearing the noise again but chose to ignore till date till next service.

I plan to get in touch with GAGUNZ.

Gagunz, I invited u on bb please accept. My pin is masked as folkows 7b****21. I hope to scan first, to know wgat all errors could be before any thing. I hope youvare not expensive o. Lol

Regards to all the experts in the house who try to ensure that our babies get the best of care...**winks**

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