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Hello everyone. Been a while.

Please how does one achieve low voltage disconnect (50% DOD) with an inverter that doesnt have it built-in? Is there any good external device for that? I saw something like that on AliExpress but the circuits are so small I wonder if they are practical.

eleojo23:
Hello everyone. Been a while.

Please how does one achieve low voltage disconnect (50% DOD) with an inverter that doesnt have it built-in? Is there any good external device for that? I saw something like that on AliExpress but the circuits are so small I wonder if they are practical.

From.my amateur knowledge,look for a charge controller,the typical PMW should do.Connect it to the battery and set the charge controller LVD to the desired voltage equivalent to 50% DOD.I think that should work.The charge controller will cut off load supply at the set voltage.The experts are here to advise professionally

omotoda:
From my amateur knowledge, look for a charge controller, the typical PMW should do. Connect it to the battery and set the charge controller LVD to the desired voltage equivalent to 50% DOD.I think that should work. The charge controller will cut off load supply at the set voltage. The experts are here to advise professionally

Add
- suitable voltage and current ratings
- rated appropriately for dumping loads. You'd be amazed most do not permit dumping load at their rated performance capacity

Not to rain on your party. Just to highlight these before someone starts a solar flare (that's a pun). Jokes aside, equipment fires are never fun.

eleojo23:
Hello everyone. Been a while.

Please how does one achieve low voltage disconnect (50% DOD) with an inverter that doesnt have it built-in? Is there any good external device for that? I saw something like that on AliExpress but the circuits are so small I wonder if they are practical.

Quite practicable.

I use this for 12v, 24v and 48v inverters. Although you will need to do a very minor extra wiring on the main switch of the inverter.

As per the 48v system, you are already nearing some high voltage, so the alternative connection will have to employ the use of a DC-DC buck converter to energizer a 12v or 24v relay or you use an outright 48v-72v relay.

omotoda:


From.my amateur knowledge,look for a charge controller,the typical PMW should do.Connect it to the battery and set the charge controller LVD to the desired voltage equivalent to 50% DOD.I think that should work.The charge controller will cut off load supply at the set voltage.The experts are here to advise professionally

Perhaps his set up doesn't include a PWM controller. Also most available PWM and MPPT controllers don't provide the wide variation and flexibility of voltage based DoD values that one will desire. The controllers for instance have DoD settings that range between 10.7v to 11.9v

Also, except you have a controller or a battery protect device that can handle the high amperage that accompanies current movement between the battery and inverter, you're not likely to be able to utilise that route (battery to inverter connection) to achieve your aim. Reason why you adopt the main switch of the inverter (with a little modification)

Attached are the devices I have deployed.

The first one is my favourite because it only trips off when the voltage has remained below the preset DoD for 10 seconds. So it has about 10 seconds delay before it trips off in case the drop in battery voltage below the set point is due to the momentary surge of the device (eg freezer, pumping machine or heavy appliance) placed on the inverter.

The second one has the advantage of being able to show battery percentage and count discharge time parameters (which I don't think I need) and also the screen goes to sleep (depending on your settings) to reduce consumption, which is very minimal in my opinion. But it does not have the delay option of the first one. The instant the voltage drops below the preset DoD, it trips off.

The connections is made in such manner that these devices take over the factory switch terminals of the inverter while this factory switch remains in the off position. You can override the devices "on" control simply by manually switching on the factory switch of the inverter.

While it has worked in most cases, I experienced a challenge with one of the inverters that has maybe logic control which registers on the screen of the inverter. It occasionally records the last "switching off" by the meter an as error, I guess since it wasn't done by the factory switch. So when it automatically turn on again (by the meter) , the "error" previously recorded logically/internally turns off the inverter after a couple of minutes. The inverter comes on again (this time by itself cos the meter is already locked to the "on" position) and then off again after couple of minutes. It can repeat this twice before the logic finally agrees with the meter (rather than the inverter factory switch) to perform the switching on option and then it stays on.

The inverter is permanently running 24/7 but I usually encounter that problem occasionally during the rainy seasons when the batteries are not well charged and the inverter had to turn off at the preset DoD.

As said earlier, in about three other types of inverters without that logic intricacies, the set up works perfectly.

Thanks for the responses @ceaser and @omotoda

4 units of brand new 280AH Eve cells still available at 85k a piece. Comes with bus bar, grub screws and nuts required to make a 12v bank

odimbannamdi:
Latest acquisition.

2 units of Fullriver 160ah Front Access Terminall (FAT) Lead acid.

120k each. Total of 240k.

Will be testing soon and updating the house.

Hello bros.Any report from.your test so far? Let us know if Full river is still 'Fillriver'

Sorry I am late to this party. I typed a response but the NL bot swallowed it.

You want a device like the XH M611 as your best solution (find it on AliExpress) - I have found the inverse logic of the second device CDxxxx a bit unwieldy.

My advice is to not modify your inverter on/off switch in any way. Simply power the LVD device from your battery bank, and use it to energise a relay/contactor that disconnects the inverter AC output once the LVD setpoint is reached.

The sequence is battery bank - LVD device - relay/contactor - inverter AC out.

You need to select a relay or contactor whose coil voltage matches your battery. I use a cheap 48v DC 5a relay to energise a larger 220v AC contactor coil - if you go this route all you ever need do is change the relay to a one with a suitable coil voltage for your application whether 12v or 24v or 48v nominal every other item in the BoM stays thesame and keeps things simple

ceaser:


Quite practicable.

I use this for 12v, 24v and 48v inverters. Although you will need to do a very minor extra wiring on the main switch of the inverter.

As per the 48v system, you are already nearing some high voltage, so the alternative connection will have to employ the use of a DC-DC buck converter to energizer a 12v or 24v relay or you use an outright 48v-72v relay.



Perhaps his set up doesn't include a PWM controller. Also most available PWM and MPPT controllers don't provide the wide variation and flexibility of voltage based DoD values that one will desire. The controllers for instance have DoD settings that range between 10.7v to 11.9v

Also, except you have a controller or a battery protect device that can handle the high amperage that accompanies current movement between the battery and inverter, you're not likely to be able to utilise that route (battery to inverter connection) to achieve your aim. Reason why you adopt the main switch of the inverter (with a little modification)

Attached are the devices I have deployed.

The first one is my favourite because it only trips off when the voltage has remained below the preset DoD for 10 seconds. So it has about 10 seconds delay before it trips off in case the drop in battery voltage below the set point is due to the momentary surge of the device (eg freezer, pumping machine or heavy appliance) placed on the inverter.

The second one has the advantage of being able to show battery percentage and count discharge time parameters (which I don't think I need) and also the screen goes to sleep (depending on your settings) to reduce consumption, which is very minimal in my opinion. But it does not have the delay option of the first one. The instant the voltage drops below the preset DoD, it trips off.

The connections is made in such manner that these devices take over the factory switch terminals of the inverter while this factory switch remains in the off position. You can override the devices "on" control simply by manually switching on the factory switch of the inverter.

While it has worked in most cases, I experienced a challenge with one of the inverters that has maybe logic control which registers on the screen of the inverter. It occasionally records the last "switching off" by the meter an as error, I guess since it wasn't done by the factory switch. So when it automatically turn on again (by the meter) , the "error" previously recorded logically/internally turns off the inverter after a couple of minutes. The inverter comes on again (this time by itself cos the meter is already locked to the "on" position) and then off again after couple of minutes. It can repeat this twice before the logic finally agrees with the meter (rather than the inverter factory switch) to perform the switching on option and then it stays on.

The inverter is permanently running 24/7 but I usually encounter that problem occasionally during the rainy seasons when the batteries are not well charged and the inverter had to turn off at the preset DoD.

As said earlier, in about three other types of inverters without that logic intricacies, the set up works perfectly.

eleojo23:
Hello everyone. Been a while.

Please how does one achieve low voltage disconnect (50% DOD) with an inverter that doesnt have it built-in? Is there any good external device for that? I saw something like that on AliExpress but the circuits are so small I wonder if they are practical.

From the spec. It can only handle 20A load. I do build a circuit to protect my client battery which I do set it according to the client specifications and it is very effective. As someone suggested that you can use Charge controller, it can only work if they is another circuit attached to the charger controller lights output which will help in switching. I have posted in this forum before how to do that.

GeorgeD1:


brother,
this test you're suggesting is totally unnecessary. i have a couple genpals or what lg calls 'inverter' ac and i can tell you it does
consume less power and is more efficient over time compared to traditional acs.
your energy savings should not be limited to a narrow 24/48hrs range else you will miss the whole essence. rather think more
of a wider band like perhaps 3, 6 or 12 months. and for this you will really need an energy meter plugged in permanently to
that equipment.

Thanks, GeorgeD1!

Saipro:

1.5hp GenCool 2 running at 25°C after about an hour in my sitting room drops to about 300W. Amazing because the original GenCool has a minimum of around 600W operating power.

In real life terms, I can run two 1.5hp GenCool 2 all night and wake to more than 50% battery left. One of them no longer goes off. If energy generation/storage isn't an issue, leaving them on guarantees a room maintained permanently cool.

Turbo mode consumes (wastes) absurd amounts of power. I no longer use it. I do not recommend it either unless you're at immediate risk of a heatstroke.

Thank you.

kiekie1:
HURRY!

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NiyiOmoIyunade:
I tend to agree with this position to a large degree.

I had the LG inverter ACs (GenCool) I believe which I ultimately phased out all 3 units in favor of Panasonic 1hp non inverter ACs.

It is correct that the inverter ACs progressively use less power after several hours run, I used to wake up to like 300w-400w consumption from a 1hp inverter AC however like Oga Adrusa said, the laws of physics have not changed - the AC is achieving good power savings at the expense of cooling - an AC compressor running at 400w is definitely doing less cooling work than a similar compressor at 800w.

Simply the inverter ACs do not cool as well as the normal ACs.

As for setting target at 25°C - this a good practice, your AC would never bring the ambient down from 32°C to to 18°C in the tropics without special measures. An AC can achieve 26°C temps in a room and thereafter work less cycles and use less power.

Thank you. Much appreciated

GeorgeD1:


brother,
this test you're suggesting is totally unnecessary. i have a couple genpals or what lg calls 'inverter' ac and i can tell you it does
consume less power and is more efficient over time compared to traditional acs.
your energy savings should not be limited to a narrow 24/48hrs range else you will miss the whole essence. rather think more
of a wider band like perhaps 3, 6 or 12 months. and for this you will really need an energy meter plugged in permanently to
that equipment.

Bravo as usual! This accurate energy power consumption monitor device or kill a watt meter in snapshot below is all he needs

Hello everyone, I'm moving out of my present apartment (where I have constant power supply) to another area, not sure how good power is there.

I need an inverter with batteries and solar panels for a 2 bedroom. Can someone give a breakdown of what I need and how much I'm looking at. I'm on a tight budget so I need cost-saving options. Thanks.

Appliances I want to power:
A smart TV
1 1.5hp LG inverter AC (if it won't burden the inverter)
3 standing fans
10 energy saving bulbs
1 decoder
1 router

Location is Ajah, Lagos.

limsycutey:
Hello everyone, I'm moving out of my present apartment (where I have constant power supply) to another area, not sure how good power is there.

I need an inverter with batteries and solar panels for a 2 bedroom. Can someone give a breakdown of what I need and how much I'm looking at. I'm on a tight budget so I need cost-saving options. Thanks.

Appliances I want to power:
A smart TV
1 1.5hp LG inverter AC (if it won't burden the inverter)
3 standing fans
10 energy saving bulbs
1 decoder
1 router

Location is Ajah, Lagos.

You need an average of 1.5kw supply so go for the following:

3kva 48v inverter - growatt or axpert variants so long as it's littium compatible
For 14hrs backup time (7 to 9am) you need at least 21kwh which is 437AH You can start with 200AH 48V LFP battery and increase capacity later.

Minimum 6kw array size. This also mean you may need external CC or just get a 5kw hybrid instead.

The above will gulp about 2m

ojeysky:


You need an average of 1.5kw supply so go for the following:

3kva 48v inverter - growatt or axpert variants so long as it's littium compatible
For 14hrs backup time (7 to 9am) you need at least 21kwh which is 437AH You can start with 200AH 48V LFP battery and increase capacity later.

Minimum 6kw array size. This also mean you may need external CC or just get a 5kw hybrid instead.

The above will gulp about 2m

Only PV and Bank go finish the budget

limsycutey:
Hello everyone, I'm moving out of my present apartment (where I have constant power supply) to another area, not sure how good power is there.

I need an inverter with batteries and solar panels for a 2 bedroom. Can someone give a breakdown of what I need and how much I'm looking at. I'm on a tight budget so I need cost-saving options. Thanks.

Appliances I want to power:
A smart TV
1 1.5hp LG inverter AC (if it won't burden the inverter)
3 standing fans
10 energy saving bulbs
1 decoder
1 router

Location is Ajah, Lagos.

If you are truly on a budget..then ditch the idea of running ac on the inverter, if the area gets 6 to 10hrs of phcn .then fine..you may do without solar panels as well...get a 6kwh to 7kwh lithium battery bank and a 1.5kva inverter. Since the charging current of such inverters are sometimes capped at 20amps...you may either search for a slightly bigger inverter that can charge at 40amps or higher ,or buy a standalone lithium battery charger..that routinely does 50 to 90amps charging current....that way even if phcn is available for a dew hrs..its enough to recharge your bank. All these would cost North of 800k

NiyiOmoIyunade:


You need to select a relay or contactor whose coil voltage matches your battery. I use a cheap 48v DC 5a relay to energise a larger 220v AC contactor coil - if you go this route all you ever need do is change the relay to a one with a suitable coil voltage for your application whether 12v or 24v or 48v nominal every other item in the BoM stays thesame and keeps things simple

Could you do a lil sketch of how this would be hooked up?. And possibly aliexpress links of the contactors you talk about

Since your budget is tight, it is advice to that you do away with your AC to allow for a moderate size inverter and energy storage(battery) needed

On an average you should be needing a 1.5KVA inverter 24V ( two battery) system with say up to 1.5KW of PV array, a 40A MPPT charge controller to go with it and other installation accessories

A budget of 750,000 - 950,000 will suffice

You can contact me via signature, if need be for more clarification

limsycutey:


I need an inverter with batteries and solar panels for a 2 bedroom. Can someone give a breakdown of what I need and how much I'm looking at. I'm on a tight budget so I need cost-saving options. Thanks.

Appliances I want to power:
A smart TV
1 1.5hp LG inverter AC (if it won't burden the inverter)
3 standing fans
10 energy saving bulbs
1 decoder
1 router

Location is Ajah, Lagos.

eleojo23:
Hello everyone. Been a while.

Please how does one achieve low voltage disconnect (50% DOD) with an inverter that doesnt have it built-in? Is there any good external device for that? I saw something like that on AliExpress but the circuits are so small I wonder if they are practical.

I guess you can use same circuit but the ac side is where you will be switching off and on will picking signal command from your battery.

omotoda:


From.my amateur knowledge,look for a charge controller,the typical PMW should do.Connect it to the battery and set the charge controller LVD to the desired voltage equivalent to 50% DOD.I think that should work.The charge controller will cut off load supply at the set voltage.The experts are here to advise professionally

I read it's bad practice to connect an inverter to the PWM DC load side. But if kept within the specifications, it may work as you said.

IYGEAL:


Only PV and Bank go finish the budget

If he is starting with a 200AH LFP he can still get an inverter within that budget

ojeysky:


If he is starting with a 200AH LFP he can still get an inverter within that budget

6KW PV and 200AH 48V plus inverter?
Well, let's say it would depend on the brands he'd be going for.

IYGEAL:


6KW PV and 200AH 48V plus inverter?
Well, let's say it would depend on the brands he'd be going for.

Axpert variants inverter 320k
400w X 14 of PV 1,120k
200AH battery 600k
Total 2.040k he can add another 60k for accessories so yes 2m is not enough, if using good PV it will be 2.1m

Good everyone
I have an inverter(SOUER) of 1000watts capacity and 40 amps battery
Can I use it power a 700 watts toaster without any damages to my system

funshyboi:
Good everyone
I have an inverter(SOUER) of 1000watts capacity and 40 amps battery
Can I use it power a 700 watts toaster without any damages to my system

Check you manual for Continuous power rating..
Most are usually 1000w Peak and 500w continuous.

Good day everyone.
This is the solar system that was setup for my store. It's been about a month now since it was setup.
The problem with this system is that harvesting and charging is very poor. It barely charges well. And I am using it off grid - I only charge with the solar panels.

The charging is slow and if it continues this way, I fear the battery won't last as I hardly get a full charge. It's always one or two bars charging on very sunny days.

Please what should I do?

Please provide answer to the following

a. Your loads
b. Run time
c. Your location

That will help to further diagnose the system.

en0uwem:
Good day everyone.
This is the solar system that was setup for my store. It's been about a month now since it was setup.
The problem with this system is that harvesting and charging is very poor. It barely charges well. And I am using it off grid - I only charge with the solar panels.

The charging is slow and if it continues this way, I fear the battery won't last as I hardly get a full charge. It's always one or two bars charging on very sunny days.

Please what should I do?

en0uwem:
Good day everyone.
This is the solar system that was setup for my store. It's been about a month now since it was setup.
The problem with this system is that harvesting and charging is very poor. It barely charges well. And I am using it off grid - I only charge with the solar panels.

The charging is slow and if it continues this way, I fear the battery won't last as I hardly get a full charge. It's always one or two bars charging on very sunny days.

Please what should I do?

To start with,we need to know the arrangement of the solar panels.From the schematic layout, your charge controller is 70 amp with max VOC 150v.I am quite certain that us grossly inadequate to cater for the input from you panels so some energy us going to be wasted.I don't what the Voc of each 350 watts panel.is but my guess is it will be close to 48v.

Which means you cannot have more than 4 connected in series.

My advice is this.Get a qualified solar engineer to look at the PV arrangement. I would advice you get another charge controller and separate the panels cos you are charging two batteries connected in parallel.

The arrangement should be 3s2p for each set up going into into each of the charge controllers and ultimately to the batteries.

If you had sought advice earlier, for this huge set up it is better you buy an hybrid inverter capable of taking up to VOC of 500v

You should subsequently see an improvement but ultimately you need to still increase your panel size.Total of 4200 watts is not sufficient to charge 2 of those 48v batteries when you consider losses as well.

As usual,the experts will still give their take!!!