thebigkendo:


What of when cats is "deleted"? any negative effect on fuel economy?

It's a debatable report from various quarters. Soome say it reduces fuel economy cos the down stream O2 sensors will report a false reading, and turn the tell the ECM to run the engine rich, some say the free flowing exhaust gases would allow for more torque and more HP and higher fuel economy.

These are debates I've not personally tested on various cars.

Hello Kingreign

On my 2007 Civic, the car runs fine. When the AC is turned on, the RPM drops and vibrations come. When reverse or drive is engaged, the car goes off. Also goes off some times when I decelerate and stop at a stop light. Please possible cause and solution?

nurey:
.
It's either you buy a replacement catalyst which hovers around 30k and replace or weld your exhaust straight and fix catalyst defouler to fool the ECU from triggering Oxygen sensor codes

Boss, how do I fix catalyst defouler?

3kay945:



Boss, how do I fix catalyst defouler?

A diy link

https://www.nairaland.com/1180238/how-remove-check-engine-light

Abeg kingreign, nurey, autologic, mayor2013 etal.
The car is eod 2003. the exhaust silencer started making some noise inside and it was discovered that some particles inside the silencer piscissed inside thereby generating some noise inside the silencer whenever the vehicle is steaming. Took it to a panelbeater and he said they will loose the exhaust system and cut the silencer open to remove the particle making noise. This was done in my presence and a very tiny particle was removed as the cause of it and the noise stopped. The issue now is that after dat, the vehicle now consumes excessive fuel. I took it back to the panel beater he said there was a leakage in the silencer, he welded it yet no solution because the car now guzzles fuel like no man's business. Please wat cud be a lasting solution to this?

J0hnTrevolt:

The car is eod 2003. the exhaust silencer started making some noise inside and it was discovered that some particles inside the silencer piscissed inside thereby generating some noise inside the silencer whenever the vehicle is steaming. Took it to a panelbeater and he said they will loose the exhaust system and cut the silencer open to remove the particle making noise. This was done in my presence and a very tiny particle was removed as the cause of it and the noise stopped. The issue now is that after dat, the vehicle now consumes excessive fuel. I took it back to the panel beater he said there was a leakage in the silencer, he welded it yet no solution because the car now guzzles fuel like no man's business. Please wat cud be a lasting solution to this?

Is your check engine light illuminated on the dashboard if yes scan the car and post codes

nurey:


Is your check engine light illuminated on the dashboard if yes scan the car and post codes

car is still toks for my wife nd no check engine light on. Movement runs fine the car even consumes more than my v6 avalon.

Is not compulsory there should be check engine before u can have DTC code inside the engine computer management system. Beside live scan data function can be also be used to analyse the issue thoroughly
If you are in Lagos ,call my signatures and I will do it for u free of charge .

J0hnTrevolt:
Abeg kingreign, nurey, autologic, mayor2013 etal.
The car is eod 2003. the exhaust silencer started making some noise inside and it was discovered that some particles inside the silencer piscissed inside thereby generating some noise inside the silencer whenever the vehicle is steaming. Took it to a panelbeater and he said they will loose the exhaust system and cut the silencer open to remove the particle making noise. This was done in my presence and a very tiny particle was removed as the cause of it and the noise stopped. The issue now is that after dat, the vehicle now consumes excessive fuel. I took it back to the panel beater he said there was a leakage in the silencer, he welded it yet no solution because the car now guzzles fuel like no man's business. Please wat cud be a lasting solution to this?

Buy exhaust component that was opened and install.

kingreign:


Buy exhaust component that was opened and install.

Could you be explicit sir?

J0hnTrevolt:
Could you be explicit sir?

The part the panel beaters cut and remove. Buy the complete Belgium unit.

kingreign:


The part the panel beaters cut and remove. Buy the complete Belgium unit.

I'm thinking in that direction too but I need clarification from the professionals like u to ascertain if the exhaust silencer has impact on fuel economy so I don't throw money away.

J0hnTrevolt:
I'm thinking in that direction too but I need clarification from the professionals like u to ascertain if the exhaust silencer has impact on fuel economy so I don't throw money away.

Depends on the design. Some are restrictive some are free flowing. The restrictive are MPG offenders

kingreign:


Depends on the design. Some are restrictive some are free flowing. The restrictive are MPG offenders

so which should I go for?

J0hnTrevolt:
so which should I go for?

Go for the type that matches yours

kingreign:

Go for the type that matches yours

Tnx

kingreign:


No leave it as it is. It is already late.

Dear kingreign... pls kindly explain this statement. How do you mean by it's already late?

scarplanet:


Dear kingreign... pls kindly explain this statement. How do you mean by it's already late?

After long term usage of 20W50 which is a thick mineral oil, the innerds of the engine wears out especially on cold starts and very high temperature operations, the engine develops some smudges which acts as seals too. Now, switching to lighter synthetic fluid say 5W30 which has detergents, will not only wash off the sludge but also cause them to accumulate at some points where they may csuse blockage and since the oil is light it can't lubricate the heavily worn out components. These would cause oil burning, oil leaks and smoking and it could cause inefficient lubrication (not on the synthetic oil part but on the part of the worn out engine innerds) this is a recipe for engine damage.

Abeg Kingreign, nurey, autologic, mayor
2013.

Recently, my '97 Maxima hesitates about 10 to 15 seconds before responding when I engage the D. Reverse engages smoothly with no problem but once I select to D, it takes some time before moving forward by itself. If I happen to throttle at this time it will just rev without moving or jerks forward after those few seconds. I do regular service and oil change every 3months.

I also observed that this usually happens during the first starting for the day or after the car has been parked for more than 3hrs. Other than that car still drives smoothly.

feelme3:
Abeg Kingreign, nurey, autologic, mayor
2013.

Recently, my '97 Maxima hesitates about 10 to 15 seconds before responding when I engage the D. Reverse engages smoothly with no problem but once I select to D, it takes some time before moving forward by itself. If I happen to throttle at this time it will just rev without moving or jerks forward after those few seconds. I do regular service and oil change every 3months.

I also observed that this usually happens during the first starting for the day or after the car has been parked for more than 3hrs. Other than that car still drives smoothly.

Check gear oil level and confirm whether it is ok

If you have not changed gear oil before, this is the time to do so. If the dipstick indicator is black instead of pink then you don't need to drain all and refill, drain small refill, drive around do this like 3times till you notice pinkish color

Best bet is to scan gear, this will tell you whether internal gear components are destroyed and if it's something that can be replaced

Dear Kingreign. I got these codes after running a scan on Toyota Camry 2003 2AZ engine. P0171 & P0110.
Pls can u interpret this and recommend the next line of action

feelme3:
Abeg Kingreign, nurey, autologic, mayor
2013.

Recently, my '97 Maxima hesitates about 10 to 15 seconds before responding when I engage the D. Reverse engages smoothly with no problem but once I select to D, it takes some time before moving forward by itself. If I happen to throttle at this time it will just rev without moving or jerks forward after those few seconds. I do regular service and oil change every 3months.

I also observed that this usually happens during the first starting for the day or after the car has been parked for more than 3hrs. Other than that car still drives smoothly.

I would have suspected a converter drain back but reverse works fine. My money is on a worn check ball. You need proper hydraulic diagnosis.

Does it help if you engage reverse for some seconds first before engaging drive?

Kashif:


I would have suspected a converter drain back but reverse works fine. My money is on a worn check ball. You need proper hydraulic diagnosis.

Does it help if you engage reverse for some seconds first before engaging drive?

Thanks Kashif. On the bolded I think it doesn't because I usually pull out on reverse before engaging drive. I guess I will make time out to go for scan. Should I tell them specific area to scan or the general scanning will detect every issue?

kingreign:


After long term usage of 20W50 which is a thick mineral oil, the innerds of the engine wears out especially on cold starts and very high temperature operations, the engine develops some smudges which acts as seals too. Now, switching to lighter synthetic fluid say 5W30 which has detergents, will not only wash off the sludge but also cause them to accumulate at some points where they may csuse blockage and since the oil is light it can't lubricate the heavily worn out components. These would cause oil burning, oil leaks and smoking and it could cause inefficient lubrication (not on the synthetic oil part but on the part of the worn out engine innerds) this is a recipe for engine damage.

Thanks bro.. you have a way of driving home your points to full comprehension. You should consider being a university lecturer. .

From your analysis above, it seems that you don't particularly rate 20W50 oils very highly. Well, for over a year I have been using Total quartz 5000 20W50 for honda civic. As a matter of fact, I just changed the engine oil last week (I change oil after every 3 months or 1300 miles). Now what do u think about the choice of engine oil for that particular car? Any longterm effects? Any advice/recommendations?

scarplanet:


Thanks bro.. you have a way of driving home your points to full comprehension. You should consider being a university lecturer. .

From your analysis above, it seems that you don't particularly rate 20W50 oils very highly. Well, for over a year I have been using Total quartz 5000 20W50 for honda civic. As a matter of fact, I just changed the engine oil last week (I change oil after every 3 months or 1300 miles). Now what do u think about the choice of engine oil for that particular car? Any longterm effects? Any advice/recommendations?

If you started using the 20W50 rated oils say 1 year ago, you may change to the more efficient lighter fluid 5W30 albeit, you have to due diligence and keenly observe for any signs of oil burning or shortage or leakages. If there's none, you're good to go on with the use of the synthetic fluid. But, if there is any oil leaks, oil shortage, or burning of oil, please, revert to your old oil.


And on the remarks, thanks a lot

Greetings kingrein. Any help to these issues is appreciated. Car is an accord 03 V6.

1.car vibrates and wobbles, I have changed driver side inner cup and shaft 5 times in 6 months. Right now there's a metal to metal feel while driving slow.Is there a permanent solution for this menance, It's so uncomfortable to drive.

2.On sudden downshift it jerks or the gear feels like it's seperating from engine, is my gear on its last legs?

3. CEL light blinking,Scan results: random misfire.P0300, P0301. Spark plugs were changed in February this year and the cel light still comes on sometimes. Help a brother out

CAPTAINBLACK01:
Greetings kingrein. Any help to these issues is appreciated. Car is an accord 03 V6.

1.car vibrates and wobbles, I have changed driver side inner cup and shaft 5 times in 6 months. Right now there's a metal to metal feel while driving slow.Is there a permanent solution for this menance, It's so uncomfortable to drive.

2.On sudden downshift it jerks or the gear feels like it's seperating from engine, is my gear on its last legs?

3. CEL light blinking,Scan results: random misfire.P0300, P0301. Spark plugs were changed in February this year and the cel light still comes on sometimes. Help a brother out

Are you based in Abuja, if yes, give me a call 07034581213

kingreign:




If you started using the 20W50 rated oils say 1 year ago, you may change to the more efficient lighter fluid 5W30 albeit, you have to due diligence and keenly observe for any signs of oil burning or shortage or leakages. If there's none, you're good to go on with the use of the synthetic fluid. But, if there is any oil leaks, oil shortage, or burning of oil, please, revert to your old oil.


And on the remarks, thanks a lot

ok.. Thank you bro. Will consider what u just told me.

mine is not a car problem.Who has ever used fuel shark and does it improve fuel consumption?

feelme3:


Thanks Kashif. On the bolded I think it doesn't because I usually pull out on reverse before engaging drive. I guess I will make time out to go for scan. Should I tell them specific area to scan or the general scanning will detect every issue?

That further confirms problem is not TC charge. I doubt if scanning will help. You need to check for internal hydraulic pressure to specific ports.

bdon123:
mine is not a car problem.Who has ever used fuel shark and does it improve fuel consumption?

It's a sham it doesn't work.

Oga Davit, I sight you