|Join Nairaland / LOGIN! / Trending / Recent / New|
Stats: 1,916,024 members, 3,928,104 topics. Date: Wednesday, 22 November 2017 at 09:26 PM
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by sunylop: 4:47pm On Nov 16, 2011|
I am still waiting fpr response, pls,
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 1:23pm On Nov 18, 2011|
I would advice you to get another mechanic,
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by sunylop: 1:39pm On Nov 18, 2011|
@kuntach, of course , i went to another mechanic, and he told me that the noise is not an issue , yet i am not comfortable with it,
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by whizkid10(m): 4:22pm On Nov 18, 2011|
« #371 on: October 26, 2011, 10:31 AM »
Quote from: pimpJay11 on October 17, 2011, 04:39 PM
Guys i just got a 2000 model CLK320 Kompressor(coupe) with a V6 Engine for the past 3months i've been replacing the airmast(airflow meter) after every replacement, the car wud come to nomalcy but jst after 2 to 3weeks i'd start noticing the black carbon on the exhuast pipe as usaul. The technicians aren't even helping maters, I've changed the fuel pump as well, and now, i'm just getting tireed of the whole thing. I buy each of these air flow meter for 25k, the parts are too expensive, each time i start noticing the black carbon (smoke), i also notice the car wud be vibrating while steaming. The car is a real german machine, but the parts are absolutely too expensive here, My only headache now, is how to get an original airflow meter, i remember spending N102,000.00 last 3weeks trying to fix the car but still the problem persit. i'll need your honest advice please, expecially from some of you who really have broad expirience on Benz. thank ya'll and God bless
The "cars" are good when they work. On the contrary - - - (I leave you to finish the sentence). I don't know who to blame on this; this is not the nature of this vehicle. I hope I am not reading too deep into what you have stated but this is a heap of a mess.
What made this even worse besides the fact that it is in a serious mess is that the setup is forced induced (supercharged). I avoid turbos and superchargers. Unlike atmospherically aspirated engines, the state of health of the engine must always be excellent or near excellent. There are also additional issues associated with them (including one that ought not to be working on them).
I'll state my opinion, though very I'm very limited in your case. You ought not to have replaced the MAF (mass air flow metre) more than once. An experienced mechanic should not have replaced it at all. It ought to have been cleaned and that would be it. I doubt if it needed to have been replaced in the first place. All the MAF does is to convert air into current. Bosch should be the only brand to be used. Check all six plugs and ensure they are gapped right and still have some life in them. If one or two are bad, you need to replace all. This would be a host of a lot of problems. The plugs have to be +1 or +2 hot range plugs. If you cannot find (which I doubt), the standard 0 should be used but should be the last resort. If you use cold plugs, you will have poor fuel economy. Engine will misfire when you stop after a high-speed coasting. I believe this has/had nothing to do with your case. The MAF should not have been disturbed in the first place.
You are actually dumping fuel. Fuel is being unburnt, thus causing you to run rich. Your Air/Fuel ratio is out of proportion. This is where the case becomes awry and difficult. Your "fuel-duty" has been compromised. What ever was done is serious advance adjustments. At this point, the ECU has shut down your catalytic converter to prevent it from damage. There was absolutely no reason to have replaced the fuel pump. If it was bad, engine wouldn't crank because pump will fail to prime and conditions within the ECU require that pressure has to be at 50psi before engine will crank over. When replacing the "fuel pump," both pumps have to be replaced.
I have a feeling that the supercharger (blower) is bad and would need replacement. This is synonymous to the fact that you are lacking boost pressure from the blower itself. If it is all good, then adjustments have been altered somewhere. I will not be surprised if the wrong ECU was fitted into your vehicle.
You will need a professional on this. Don't buy another part or major part. This needs readjustments. I am surprised that you are able to drive it. The vehicle should have been in limp-mode. As I said, this left to the professionals and not just the professionals but experienced of them. There are nairalanders that can advice you on this.
Cheers - give your feedback as you make progress.
Sorry, I'm using my friend accounts now cos i can't sign into mine. (Pimpjay11)
I'm actually in deep poo now cos they changed another air flow metter today and replaced some prssure pipes too. Inittiallty the technician said the plugs were not working n needs to be replaced. And now, all are replaced the Engine steams/sounds like a Lister Engine now + the tempreture rising above 90oC when the aircon is turned on.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by autodoctor: 8:46am On Dec 02, 2011|
We are an Abuja based independent car repair and servicing centre and we offer free technical advice to the general public on automotive related issues. We also offer every service you could imagine from a car repair garage, from car servicing, mechanical and electrical diagnostics and repairs, clutch, exhaust and suspension repairs through to ECU fault code reading and diagnostics. We have the latest state of the art tools for dianostics right up to dealer levels including special tools for carrying out extensive repairs. We also have an international network of vehicle spare parts suppliers and we deliver to your door within a week of ordering.
Whatever it is that you need, we ensure that you recieve an excellent service from all of our staff. We have friendly and courteous staff, who are dedicated to ensuring our customer service standards are of the highest levels at all times. Over the years we have developed an excellent reputation with our clients for the quality of our service, along with our competitive prices.
Call us on 081 62907680 for more info
Accept it or not that neither the roadside mechanic or the ultra-modern service centre are the best options available to any motorist here in Nigeria. To begin with, the roadside mechanic is limited in capacity to work on most modern vehicles that are still original in their composition. The advancement in automotive technology and science always proves a difficult challenge for them as they lack adequate education and training in current automotive technology.
Most cars on the road these days have complex electronics such as micro processors that instruct the functions of components and accesories found in cars. Due to these method of operations, diagnostic equipments had to be invented to enable communication with control units in order to ascertain their well-being and carry out repairs in a safe and economical manner. Most road side mechanics lack the ability to use these equipments talk less of owning even the most basic ones nor the right tools for the job. They would proceed to work on any car even when they havent got the foggest idea on what to do. (Afterall it doesnt cost anything to say to the victim that the car couldnt be fixed).
On the other hand, since comming back to Nigeria after living and working in the UK for over 12 years and where I have an MOT centre and an automotive service and repair centre, I have had a look at a huge number of cars and 4x4s that have defied even the most modern garages in Nigeria from fixing them. It really beggars belief that these major companies rip off hapless Nigerians through heavy sign up fees and very expensive labour charges without doing the job well or if at all solving the problems.
One car I had a look at was a 2008 model Mercedes GL450 with airmatic suspension problems. The car belongs to an ex governor so I dont believe that repair costs was an issue. This car had been to several major companies with this problem only for the wrong diagnosis to be made and the car still leaning on its side. New pump, new valve block, new suspension airbags and God knows what else, but the problem remained. The owner had given up on his pride and joy until after almost six moths of it sitting in another glorified roadside workshop, I was invited to have a look at it. I took it into my workshop and did a detailed analysis and check on the operation of the system only to discover that no one ever noticed a leak on the compressor to valve block pipe. I temporarily mended the pipe so that I could test the car and like a miracle, everything was fine. I then ordered a new pipe from the United states and replaced the mended one and fingers crossed, its getting to 8 months now and no complain yet.
How dumb could these mechanics be not to notice a simple hiss?
Bottom line is dont surrender your car to anyone who is not competent enough to fix it. How do you know this?, Ask them as many questions as you can on what may be the problem and judge from their explanations if they know what they are talking about.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 6:49pm On Dec 05, 2011|
I am very sorry to hear this. Frankly I cannot explain what has gone wrong because many things are not adding up. This is because there are too many changes made to the intended mode of operation. I have some conclusions but I don't have the vehicle to spend time on. The people you have taken it to should not be working on your vehicle. As a matter of fact, if they don't own one or haven't owned one in the past, they are not qualified to work on one (my opinion). The cars are very different from other cars on the road. There are some parts or services that you don't just remove and replace without resetting. At this point, your vehicle should be hooked to an MB terminal to pin-point possible areas of malfunction. This does not lock-in your areas of interests but an idea. Hand-diagnostics which is the true troubleshooting (which relies on knowledge and experience) is were the service begins. The terminal is not needed but it does shave time out of the total troubleshooting period.
Right now, your engine layout has been compromised. I don't even know what a lister engine is but I don't think you meant it as a compliment. 90degC is about right for the engine but that is under certain conditions. I person with poor working knowledge/understanding of pneumatics should not work on any Mercedes Benz for a fee for Mercedes Benz uses pneumatics extensively with control-systems and everything must be right unless otherwise.
For now, do not move the vehicle (if you do not have to). If you trace steps back on this thread to post number 320, I put two numbers of an engineer that works on Benzes and BMWs and he is a purist. He is not an automotive engineer and his prices are a bit higher but you do not have remedial services after the final service has been done and the keys handed to you. The job is thorough and the parts he uses are genuine and he is honest. Prepare yourself to learn something about your car because you will be "schooled" indeed on how it should work from how your car is working. I hope your ECU was never replaced; you may not even know.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by emmyz09(m): 6:59pm On Dec 05, 2011|
Thanks to you all.I have read this thread through but am caught on getting a v-boot its going to be my first ride so I need advice if its ok or not.am really crazy about the car I saw one e220 in my area and am loving it.pls oga Sienna I need ur response on this as am heading to lagos by next month for the car. Thanks
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by stiyke(m): 9:38pm On Dec 09, 2011|
I would like to buy c or clk MB. Please which year, model and engine type would you recommend starting from 1999? Thanks.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 6:51am On Dec 12, 2011|
To be square with you, the vehicles are quite old and lots of bushes will have to be changed.
For the C, I'll suggest the very last year and avoid the supercharged variants.
For the CLK, why 1999? No matter how much you save, it is not a wise decision over the 2000 - 2002, that is in engineering, aethesitcs and extras.
Both models are prone to catastrophic rusts and I won't recommend them to you for this reason and its age. Itis an issue when the sheet metal of the body begins to rust and areas too that are concealed. It is another issue when structural and structural supporting members are rusting. This is cognitively unacceptable. The pre-2000 of the CLK/E left a lot to be desired and it is not a well-thought-out compromise to the refreshed models. A lot of parts and components were upgraded.
To avoid being too detailed and prevent this post from being lengthy, I'll refrain from the pre-refreshed version of the C Class. The 230 variant is the least problematic and the choice of many of all the normal series in that class. This is because of the blend of power and agility for the engine range. The 180 should not be considered. It is underpowered.
For the CLK, I can't tell you much about the lower displaced engines. The engine generation is newer and I never got acquainted with them (for they are not sold where I am). It is true I said the V6's should be avoided on any Mercedes. That is true but to a "new" extent. A 60 degrees V is now into production and from the Mercedes design information that I have on that engine, it has been built from ground-up with innovations and grounds that haven't been covered ever in motoring has been conquered. This debuts currently on the 2012 C Classes. Besides this newer engine from the oven, the other V6's should be avoided. They were not built but concluded upon as an after-thought. The extent also to which the conclusions were engineered to only puts the burden upon the consumer as time elapses. It is not a best buy both in cost and and logic. One of the archilles heels is the balance shaft ripping out of the engine because it barely cancels out the rocking motions. Mercedes engines cannot be rebuilt on this generation due to its design and this occasion was never factored in. This kind of repair will never be as it would have been without this failure. This leaves you with the V8. This is the engine designed in its real actuality. The v6 incarnate is nothing but sectioned-off V8. A v6 in its inherent nature is a defective engine. Imagine adding one notch to the defect. There is nothing economical between the v6 and v8. The difference between the two engines is 1 mile to a gallon. The performance you get over the v8 is overwhelming to the asthmatic v6.
There are repairs homologous to the normal series. They can be overwhelming. The nature of these cars are a bit "discriminating" (-- for lack of a better choice of words). When a major problem occurs (i some cases, minor), the ECU in some cases would limp the vehicle or shut it down till the problem is fixed before normal operation begins. There are some electrical issues that are quite expensive to repair/replace (e.g. instrument cluster, A/C, climate controls, pneumatic related issues etc) and they go bad.
Maintaining a Mercedes will cost some money. Owning one also cost money to upkeep. Buying a Mercedes and considering mileage on gas is not acceptable. It is a different thing when you are using too much power (fuel) with little to no performance. If you needed such feat, a Mustang would offer that to you gracefully for a fraction of the cost. 'having said so, this leads me to the other phase.
The electrical gremlins are not found in the AMG series. They aren't prone to rust either. They are hand-built and some of the control-systems and electricals are HWA parts (not MB). These engines and transmissions are rock-solids and I would recommend it to anyone that I feel like talking "merc-y" to. You might be considering gasoline efficiency. The engine and transmission is adaptable and learns your driving style and detunes itself to match your pattern. Keep in mind that this is a car with a split personality and it will display its naughty side without warning if tempted. As long as it is not provoked, it will always remain in docile behaviour. The number of repairs per time period are seriously lower than the normal series. AMG's can take abuses and they are still loyal to you. Normal wear and tear should be expected. To tell you how rugged AMG-tuned MB's are, you can race all day on a race track without any modification to the vehicle and still drive the car home on its brakes and tyres (provided the tyres are not wornout) and still be going to work on Monday morning. Under time-trial, the chassis/suspension is taken a serious beating and under undue stresses. If you aren't swayed by the cost of replacing the tyres and track cost, you can return the following week or a few times a year but service life will be compromised. You'll be bunkers to take a regular Merc over an AMG-tuned Merc if you had the understanding and opportuned.
If a Benz has been neglected, don't buy it. It is not worth it. It'll be expensive to put it in order. HWA parts are significantly expensive than the regular Merc parts but you rarely replace them. It's just as the traditional ownership of a Mercedes; expensive parts - but twice or x-times the regular interval period. I'm not saying it is problem free but areas that might pose some issues are the inherent Mercedes parts that were unchanged at the Afaltebach plant. With the C Class, the C43 (if you opt for the AMG route) would be your engine choice. It is the closest car to the Porshe-built 500E in driving dynamics and feel. I won't recommend a c36. For the CLK, the CLK55. Be very careful of funny AMG's sold. Some people go through great lengths to make their vehicles AMG. You should look out for these kinds of phoney vehicles. Since the AMG's of this era were handbuilt, the interior are of two natures. They are either black or two-toned black and light-beige white. If I can recall, they were either black or silver in colour. Open the engine and look for the engineers name on the engine (though some are orphaned but the AMG is unmistakened). A 430 AMG is not AMG-tuned and warrants no cost beyond what its due. Some Mercedes were assembled with AMG trinkets and that is where the fun stops. Within the range you have asked, AMG's are more rare than today's.
If you will be importing from the United States, some engine adjustments would have to be done (fuel timing). Do not listen to anyone that tells you otherwise. The engineers that designed the vehicle explicitly stated it in the owners manual that premium only and in situations were premium cannot be gotten, half tank of gas and no more than 3000rpm and less than full cargo capacity.
Avoid any MB with modified suspension or deduct the cost. You cannot improve a Mercedes. What you buy is what you get. If you can get a repair history, it's a plus. If you can't, have a mechanic inspect it.
Whatever your choice of flavour is, do not rush your purchase. It might take you months but it is better. If you find a well maintained early to mid-90's E Class (LH Jetronic/HFM), it's a good consideration. The normals series are excellent as well and better than the choices you originally asked for.
This is the best I can give to you in a nutshell. I believe it has been presented best considering age and possible maintenance possibilities.
All the best in your choice.
I had written this before I realised that you stated from 1999 upwards. That's a bit harder for me because I am not really acquainted with the C Class (w203) and higher. The 2003 generation CLK class is not impressive and I would tell you to avoid them. The repairs are in excess and not the cheap kinds. I was told that 2007 - 2009 were pretty much worked out. I never ventured into the CLK's because I'm an E person and of recent, I developed a practical interest in coupes. I have my reserved comments about Mercedes these days.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by emmyz09(m): 7:07am On Dec 12, 2011|
@TRAC could u please help me on my question I actually want a Vboot but the E220 series is my target please could u give me insight into dis car I would be glad if u did. Thanks and look forward to hearing from u soon.thanks.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by stiyke(m): 9:33am On Dec 12, 2011|
Thanks Trac for your time and effort. I must say it was educating
Right now i drive a mercedes 190 (1995?), it came with a turbo charged 6 cylinder engine. I love the car, it has been serving me for 4yrs now, my only issue with it is that when i use it intensely through the day, by evening the temperature would be close to 100 degrees. I was asked to change the radiator but i want to be sure changing it would keep the temperature low.
So i want a newer model mercedes as a second car, i dont like e class cause it looks big. I want something sleek, like c clk. I cant afford recent c or clk models, even if i can afford it, i wouldnt buy it. Thanks for your educative reply.
Please what do you mean by HWA?? It will help me understand your post better.
How do i (a novice) know an AMG apart from the emblem on its body, do they all have the engineer's name on its engine?
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 8:24am On Dec 13, 2011|
The 124 series generation are solid-built. At 16 years, the primary ppi (pre-purchase inspection) should be all mounts and rubber bushings. Some tend to rot (harden and break off) and some tend to still look good as though its fresh (german rubbers) but the integrity is lost.
Look out for rust in hidden areas. It is no where near as bad as the C CLass generation and the twin-light generation that succeeded it. It is still a good thing to look out for. Depending on the year that you are looking out for, some have wiring looms that are biodegradable. This biodegradable looms can only keep up with the heat of the engine for so long before they harden (insulation) and break-off, leaving all kinds of electrical problems and driveability issues. The insulation to these looms are time sensitive too.
Inspect the suspension. It should be very firm and yet comfortable over rough terrain. It is understandable the best of the state of the suspension should not be expected but there is a point where it becomes acceptable/understanding and just plain lousy.
Ask if the transmission has been replaced or overhauled. This is only applying to the automatics. They are designed to go for a certain period (roughly 155,000 miles) before you loose the reverse gear. It's just a warning.
When you put the ignition to the ON position, you should hear the fuel pump prime at the rear. It should be a steady electrical whining. Anything short of this indicates a fuel pump that is questionable.
This would have to be done at a garage.
The drive shafts would have to be inspected. The flexible couplings wear out and would eventually damage the centre support bearing of the driveshaft. This is often neglected but it is a practical service that should be done at certain intervals. One of the symptoms from 2 - 3 and wouild appear that your transmission is missing a mount. In some cases, the coupling actually is broken.
The motor mount is fluid based. This should be noted. If it's worn off, the transmission mounts would have to be replaced as well.
There is a false wall behind the battery (depending on the year of your model). The false wall will reveal a sensitive region that need not be attended to except the purpose calls for. There will be relay that has a transparent cylindrical top with a rubber seal to keep it air tight. This is the overlay voltage protector (OVP). This plays a very sensitive role in the vehicle. At this age, this should be replaced. If it fails, you'd have problems starting, stalling, stumbling and some issues that at this point cannot express. It is also the gate-keeper to protect the ECU. In otherwords, it'll sacrifice itself before the ECU messes up. It's also got a lot to do with the fuel pump and the priming to specified psi before permitting the engine to turn over. When OVP related issues occur, you'd have done lots of diagnosis, trials and made replacements to parts and sensors before frustration kicks in.
The rear suspension is complicated but the benefits are tremedous. Worn out components would cause the rear to steer in motion. This is noticeable in freeway speeds or high speeds. It will also feel as though no weights are in the rear.
There is hardly any known issue with this model besides the wiring loom. The 260/300 were known for serious oil leaks from the valve covers and the 320/300CE were known for head gasket failures.
This is what I can come up with.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 8:26am On Dec 13, 2011|
An AMG engine will have a plaque on the engine lock that tells states the name of the engineer that hand-built the vehicle. The engine will have AMG forged on both banks of the engine block. For the generation of Mercedes that I discussed, the seats are not Mercedes but AMG seats. They are sport seats with AMG inscribed, the instrument cluster is different from the traditional Benz with AMG inscribed on them. The interior is in two flavours. It is either completely black or two-toned black and white. The steering wheel is also sporty. In the outer appearance, it is aggressive looking with wider wheels and the rear tail light is smoked with pronounced tail exhaust tubes. I am not too sure but the exterior colours are either black or silver. This is because the body shells were sandblasted, primed and painted by the engineer assigned to it.
HWA stands for Hans Werner Aufrecht (initials of the co-founder) and AMG part numbers will begin (prefix) with HWA as oppose to MB that uses just integers that Mercedes uses.
You have a rare Benz and I don't know who the stage-tuner is.
It might sound silly to you but operating at 100degC is normal in MB's. It is another situation if the conditions do not warrant the readings. In some cases, the coolant might be bearing the heat as it is not intended to. This is so if the thermostat is bad. DOn't replace the radiator. The engines are designed that way. It's a hot engine and works best that way. Ensure your cooling fluid, thermostat and auxillary fans are working. When you get another Benz, keep both if you can. The C/CLK is not better than what you have.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by cool2mine: 4:24pm On Dec 15, 2011|
@I need to buy ORIGINAL top gasket for a mercedes benz 320 ML. 2002 MODEL.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 9:57pm On Dec 15, 2011|
^^^ do u have a reliable mechanic to handle such jobs?
often worried about doing such this,
your mech should know better
I make most of my repairs @ Ladipo, Lagos, Reason- this is the biggest auto market in the whole of west Africa, - also, should I need to change anything, its easy.
best of Luck
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 10:00pm On Dec 15, 2011|
please I need ur assist here, my car fuel consumption has greatly increased, infact I think I am doing about 13-15mpg,
really dont know where to start from, I now hear a knocking sound when I press the gas to accelerate - I understand when there is excessive fuel sprayed in the combustion chamber, it can give such sound ,
please kindly advice.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by elviszzz: 10:53pm On Dec 15, 2011|
Is it advisable to buy a mercedes benz E320 2002 model? I like d car but wldnt want to make a mistake getting one.what are the problems normally associated with this model? Are the parts very expensive like brainbox,gearbox,airflow meter? Is it true dat a mercedes engine expires? Please I need some answers,thanks for your concern.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 7:16am On Dec 17, 2011|
13-15 mpg is poor. Since you have covered a lot, treating this inefficiency should be minor and shouldn't cost you much in cost and time. You'll probably do it yourself.
I'll only give you what my opinion is. I am not truly certain but it is what I can come up with by logic. Oil may not be getting to the upper (top end) chamber of the crankcase. In other words, low oil pressure or something to that effect. Then again, I haven't asked the kind of noise you are hearing. It might be the hydraulic lifters; varnish or dirt build-up in the lifters. Spark plugs knock noise - i.e. bad ignition timing, hence the carbon buildup on the plugs. Broken or worn out engine mount. These are the possible areas that I can draw conclusion upon.
Utmost, verify your oil pressure from the dashboard. It should be 3 bars at initial startup.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 7:40am On Dec 17, 2011|
Before you spend anything "serious," inspect the spark plugs. You might have to change it. Never buy into the nonsense that plugs last 100,000 miles. Plugs should be the +1 or +2 heat range plug. No Mercedes engine would run well on fancy plugs (two or four prong plugs).
Decarbonise the engine. This should go a long way to the mileage result you are getting in gas consumption.
Examine the engine mounts.
If this still remains, a mechanic should examine it.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 3:49pm On Dec 19, 2011|
I cleaned the throttle body on Saturday, there was a little improvement, I did 83miles with 16 litres ( about 19mpg) pls correct me if I am wrong in my calculation,
to me, this is still high, because I have attained 23mpg with that car b4, I am worried what could be the problem,
Trac, here are my suspicions.
Could the fuel pump be loosing power -( response is seldom, not as quick)
could there be excessive fuel sprayed in the cylinder chamber not necessarily needed?
could absence of catalytic converter on the exhaust line send signal to the ECU for more fuel to be pumped?
and Lastly, could the oxygen sensor be the culprit ?
I am worried, cos I hate waste, and moreso, there is no fuel subsidy in the country's budget for 2012,
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 9:20pm On Dec 19, 2011|
From what I hand-calculated, 11.9782L/100Km is what I came about. That came up to 23.5428mi/gl - which in everyway manipulated is very poor save for heavy city traffic. Your tank is bigger than what 'we' have in America. Miles and litres cannot go in unity because the standards are not in agreement. So, the miles (83 mi) have to be converted to kilometres (133.5756ki) via 1mi = 1.609ki to get the exact gas consumption. Litres/100Kilometres is the best standard we can use because it is as explicit as the numbers are plus it is the imperial standard. You should be returning about 7 or 8L/100Km.
You will run rich if you are using too much fuel and less air. The waste from the exhaust would be more than enough warning that something needs to be done.
To answer your questions:
1. The fuel pump is not failing. A mechanical whine should be heard shortly before the engine cranks. The pumps primes the tank to 50psi and signals back to the OVP that a condition has been met. If you have a bad bad fuel pump, it would be "snarling" (sort of) mechanically. Engine too will stumble but will start again after reignition. When you make a sharp-left/right turn, engine will stumble. This is in all Mercedes engines going far back as the 70's.
2. The ECU would not let that happen. It will shut the cylinder down to prevent the catalytic converter from damage.
3. There is no such communication arrangement. The cats can be clogged and driveability will be weak. I can't tell you much about the removal of the catalytic converter on a Mercedes but I can assure you that isn't anything to do with what you are going through.
4. Oxygen sensor?! Good question! I never had to change an oxygen sensor on any of my four cars. Don't take this as gospel from me but I do the electronic and computer system service, ignition systems and emissions control system service and a few mechanical problems all my self since 2004. I never had a need to go there. Somebody else will have to shed light on this to you. I do things differently also, I change my oil every 15 - 18 months.
I edited the last thread I posted. It was better if it were short than lengthy. I was averaging two miles to a gallon. After stabilising the gas chamber and the crankcase all returned to normal. I am yet to decarbonise it because I don't have a place to puff out the exhaust. I merely put on 3000 miles this year on it and gas consumption was heavy so I let it sit till december. Driveability has returned. This is what I am trying to pass on to you. The water that came out of my exhaust was alarming. It was a huge puddle on the floor plus the stream. Everything is normal at this point and I use less effort to drive and engine is barely audible in the cabin.
This is completely inexpensive. Now, you have a knock (which is totally abnormal). After all you have done, decarbonising your rails & crankcase as cleaning your fuel tank is very appropriate. The fuel in the United States is poor in grade and I am sure that is how water got into my tank. After this procedure, deductive reasoning can be applied. You may not have to do anything else. I'll probably just hint you on how to readjust your engine setup.
Do you have an automatic or manual transmission setup?
nb: Decarbonising is basing cleaning gunk and carbon buildup from your engine and injectors. Also, lubricating your engine and the fuel loop. You should use nothing but seafoam in a Mercedes engine. I cannot speak for B12 and I have never used it. It is supposedly older than seafoam but seafoam is what I have used always. Thankfully now, there is the aerosol type (if you need to use it in the vacuum line). You will need 3 or 4 cans. One for the crankcase, the second for the fuel chamber, the third for the vacuum line or intake line and the fourth, 1/3 of a pint as you drain the oil. There are horror stories from those who used other products.
Don't rush to spend any unneeded money. I do not like waste as well. You've gone a long way also, the throttle body is just one of the members to address. The method I have alerting you to would be thorough than the bits here-&-there. This should be the first step in treating this. This is NL. If you cannot find seafoam, raise the awareness here. I believe Nigerians drive diesels too. The generators are diesels too. I'll assist you with this. After purging your engine, some reset might have to be done. Please let me know if you have an automatic or not.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 8:07am On Dec 21, 2011|
thanks alot Trac,
I have an Auto transmission,
its like I have seen seafoam advertised somewhere here on NL,
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 4:10pm On Dec 21, 2011|
I will recommend all three. For your intake, the aerosol type is what you should use. Leave the liquid to the professionals. Aerosol takes just two minutes to transfer through one of the vacuums lines hijacked from a sensor that is Y splits to the pressure sensor and the resonance flap. This is the only way I was able to do it without a check engine light and I did not uninstall anything besides removing a vacuum tube. It was windy and cold and I got a slight headache after the application. I got little smoke but my fuel pump is louder than my engine at idle and engine is barely audible when I wide-open the throttle. It's also willing to sprint and the delivery of power is very smooth.
My reason for asking your gear type is that you might have to add some vacuum pressure to the transmission lines to smoothing out the shifting. It might shift harder after seafoaming. If you are happy with the shifting, then leave all as-is. The car will need to be on a lift.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 4:39pm On Dec 21, 2011|
Why? How did you about this conclusion?
If you indeed need a headgasket job (of which I believe you don't), the headgasket isn't the only thing you need. The MB seal itself is another "constant" you will need. Anything besides this sealant, you are redoing the job in about a year or two. I will not go into details on what is to be done but there will be some machining also. There are lots of "variables."
Except you have driven without "water" for a period of time, you cannot blow a headgasket in an MB engine. The square MB engines were notorious for headgasket issues but the gaskets never blew. You engine is not a square engine, your generation is not known for such an issue. The engines are pretty much built as tight to design tolerance as it could. What happens to one engine under normal operating circumstance would happen to the vast majority.
Why do you need such a repair? What are your symptoms?
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 10:34am On Dec 22, 2011|
I got my mechanic to work on the fuel lines ystydy , he started with the injector nozzles, removed them and noticed the four nozzles spray fuel @ the same time.
He said this was wrong that they out to spray in sequence, as in- 1 & 4 then 2 & 3, just as the cylinder goes up and down.
he said its most likely to be my wire harness, since the engine wire harness is diff from what is currently there, (I used the old wire for the new engine)
it was late ystdy, so we couldnt get another wire harness to check it out, hopefully would do that in then next 2hrs. and I would update accordingly.
thanks for ur help
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 3:27pm On Dec 22, 2011|
You are welcome. We all learn something new everyday.
Did you replace the ECU as well? The old engine might have a different ECU mapping than the transplanted engine.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by HAH: 8:04pm On Dec 22, 2011|
Am planning to buy MB e class 240,320 or350 from 2003 to 2006 models depending on their cost, kindly help me on each advantage and disadvantage, and the features I should look out for when buying in cotonou next month
Thank you as expect your response
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by wopy(m): 11:06pm On Dec 22, 2011|
I need your advice! I'm planning to buy an 2005 ML 350. Do you know of any inherent mechanical problem with this model ? Cheers!!
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by kuntash: 6:17am On Dec 23, 2011|
^^^^ I like that ML, my mech says its good and the parts arent that much as rgds maintenance, u can ask more anyways
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 2:46am On Dec 28, 2011|
It hard being blunt but I'll recommend that the first generation 211 should be avoided for the sole purpose of the warranty of the SBC that will expire two years from now.
It is hard getting rid of a first generation 211 especially the 2003 models. They are readily available and very cheap to purchase. Many of them are low miles. There are lots of electrical gremlins, quality issues and lots of repairs to be done. It is an experience on its own because reliability is very poor. I'll expand a bit on three major issues with the first generation 211.
Sadly, there aren't much cues that you can watch out for.
Avoid the models with panoramic roofs. Watch for leaks and motor ticks. The roof is not maintenance-free.
Brakes are awesome. But at any time without warning, you can get the stop sign signal with the "Brake Defective Stop Vehicle" alert or "Reduced Braking Power." This has to do with failure of the sensotronic brake system (SBC) and if you are in motion, the ECU will engine-brake as it downshifts the vehicle. The technical documentation states you will have some braking capabilities when failure occurs but from experiences of owners, there were no braking capabilities. There are lots of mixed opinions about the unproven braking system. The SBC setup has a cycle count of operation (320,000 or something in that figure) to prevent it from wear. Once the count is reached, the system shuts down and you get the failure or reduced braking error. The SBC pump at this point will have to be replaced. Currently, MB will replace it at their own cost till 2014 or 2016. Cost of replacement in parts are in thousands of dollars. Mercedes discontinued the SBC system when the model was refreshed.
The airmatic suspension, though magnificent fails without symptoms or warning (irrespective of time). It's either in the inflated state (which is a pump resistor failure) or in the collapsed state (reservoir bag leak). It's very expensive replacing each strut. You will have the suspension indicator light come on when any of the four fails.
Failure timing chain sprocket for the balance shaft due to design and materials defect. You don't have to be a spirited-driver, the failure still occurs. Ironically, when the failure is in progress, you get a different error failure message and the root cause is never addressed but a system reset. This is the biggest issue with the V6's and the V8's. It is a very expensive overhaul and currently, there is a class-action lawsuit in effect. Mercedes is not taking responsibility for the defect.
I don't know if this is your first Mercedes or you've had several that are older. This is far from the Mercedes Benz you've always known. These are the serious major problems. The other problems that you will encounter will be due to the fact that it is very advanced in technology and it's toys and sensors. The ECU is very unforgiving and would demand the problems be fixed. It is getting old and problems arising from age will start occurring.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by Trac: 3:04am On Dec 28, 2011|
The 272 engine was released in the Fall of 2006 for the 2007 year models. I'm not sure what model you are talking about. I'm not into offroad vehicles except the Cayenne, so I am limited in the M Class knowledge. I do know one fact, if you are referring to the 2005 M Class, Kuntash (on a broad scale) is right except the parts are not cheap. However, the 320's are known for balance shaft failures. The V8's should be sought for. The difference in miles per gallon is one. You can select between the lower or higher displaced engines. Same engine but stroked differently. According to Mercedes, there were 1500 revisions to that year's model and so far, it is the most reliable M Class between the first and second generation. I don't have much interest for Mercedes (though I talk about it here) as I did many years ago, so I can't talk on the newer M's.
|Re: Mercedes Benz Thread by superjumbo: 6:21am On Dec 30, 2011|
A friend is offering me 2005 Mercedes-Benz C 180 W 203. Nigeria used. 104987mil
Please what do you guys think?
Advice needed, is it problematic and expensive to maintain?
|Sections: politics (1) business autos (1) jobs (1) career education (1) romance computers phones travel sports fashion health |
religion celebs tv-movies music-radio literature webmasters programming techmarket
Nairaland - Copyright © 2005 - 2017 Oluwaseun Osewa. All rights reserved. See How To Advertise. 420