adechuks:

Colonel Siena,
Thanks for all your posts.

What do you think of a Freelander 2002/03. It's a V6

The Freelander from 2001 had the "modified" K-series engine. The cylinder head castings were revised, and they don't appear to be so prone to headgasket failure.

So, your model year should be fine.

romeo:

I have a Rover 75 2.5 engine and i think it's a nice car but the parts are a major problem especially when you have it in Nigeria, i always go home with some essential parts each time i come back to Nigeria

But i don't know much about other Rover cars

The Rover 75 V6 was launched, during the revised K-series engine era, so are pretty much ok, on all but the early cars.

I have done an engine replacement on one, a 2000 model, but not due to headgasket failure.

An oil cooler pipe corroded from the outside, and gave way when the car was on the motorway, probably doing 80mph-plus. By the time the driver noticed the oil pressure light, it was too late, the engine was cooked.

The oil cooler is at the front, just above the sump, and it's wise to check the condition of the steel pipes, as they're not stainless, and corrode if road debris / mud is allowed to accumulate on them.

iykezoral:

Hello Siena,

Thanks for all your explanations, you are really wonderful.

Please, what model of Honda accord ( b/w 1998 and 2000) models has a problematic and expensive gear box ranging b/w 250k and 300k. I actually need a honda accord of these model range but need to be advised further.


thanks.

Honda automatic transmission failures are rare, but do happen.

Most problems are due to poor maintenance, rather than manufacturer decects. I've stripped auto boxes down, where the ATF, meant to be a transparent red, is a grey-black mixture. When checking the level, it's bad practice to use tissue, or any rag that isn't lint-free. These tiny fibres will eventually clog up the tiny ATF passages in the valve body. Automatic transmissions are very sensitive to dirt.

The first symptons are a reluctance for the transmission to up-shift, and as more damage is done, it'll actually remain in first, even when the car's doing about 40mph, albeit very noisily.

The other factor is wrong fluid being used, the automatic transmission in most FWD cars is made up of 2 sections - the automatic sextion, which contains the planetry gears, hydraulic governor, as well as the valve chest. Then the differential section, which contains the crownwheel and pinion. These 2 sections tend to use seperate fluids - ATF for the auto section, and manual gearbox oil for the differential.

The differential will still run if a small quantity of ATF is accidentally introduced. The autobox however, will NOT tolerate gearbox oil!

The differential is seldom checked for oil level, as there's no dipstick, and needs to be checked by removing the level plug midway up the casing. The exact location will vary from car to car, but it's very important. If the level's correct, the gear oil will be just about level with the opening, with the plug removed, and the car on level ground.

A lot of "mechanics" fail to check this, either because they're ignorant of it's presence, or just can't be bothered. If it runs low / dry, the differential will overheat, to the extent the heat will destroy the seals that seperate the 2 different fluids, and they'll mix, with disastrous results.

If you're not mechanically minded, and you don't do a lot on your car yourself, please, locate the differential level inspection plug, and check it at least once every 2 months, don't presume your mechanic checked it at the last service. Check the ATF level on the dipstick too, and use a lint-free rag. The ATF must be checked whilst warm, with the selector lever set to park, with the engine idling. If the ATF colour looks darker than the regular red, then something'd wrong.

If it's brown, then the clutch-bands are burning. They can be replaced, and the ATF flushed, and re-filled with fresh fluid of the *correct type.

If it's grey, then it could be more serious, as the "grey" is actually minute metal particles, caused by vital internal part failure. These will be the planetry gears, and will require the auto transmission to be removed, and refurbished.

* ATF types vary. They all tend to look the same colour, but they are different! There's Dexron, Dexron II, Dexron D and a whole lot of others. Never top up your car with anything other than the manufacturer's recommended type!

Current Mercedes-Benz, Audi and a lot of BMW's no longer have the traditional "dipstick", to check the ATF level. But, it still needs to be checked, just because the dipstick's disappeared, doesn't mean the level doesn't need checking!

Sienna, please i need maintenance tips and other relevant information about 1999 NISSAN ALTIMA. I just bought the car

Sunnyjean:

Sienna, please i need maintenance tips and other relevant information about 1999 NISSAN ALTIMA. I just bought the car

I'll see what I can find. Will be later in the day though, just off to work now.

Hello Siena/others with inputs,

I just had my first experience with my automatic transmission/transaxle gear on my 2000 mazda MPV.

It just refuses to get in gear , sometimes i need to turn off the engine and start up again, sometimes it engages the first gear and moves for like 15 - 20 secs before failing or sometimes it just does nothing except showing the RPM on the increase,  atleast that was how i was able to get it home.

Inspecting the oil from the dipstick, the oil color appears transparent on the dipstick and light brown at the tip, though black/ red when inspected on a white cloth its was wipped with.

What do i do? Will a flush provide a solution, its been very okay all the while, until yesterday.

Siena, one quick question: What can be done when the engine oil alert on the dashboard refuses to go off and keeps giving a beeping sound intermittently?

This problem has persisted on a 1997 Passat sedan and there doesn't seem to be a solution. It first appeared when the oil switch got faulty. That was replaced, and a full service was done. Yet the oil alert still keeps beeping. Why?

Sienna D man,

how u dey? , I'm about purchasing a 2000 model Landrover Freelander.

How easy to maintain a car is it? And what are it's weak-points with respect to faults and all?


holla at your man.

Viperman,
I am not a mechanic, but four of my friends bought the freelander 1.8 brand new in Nigeria, before 50k miles engine failure and one gearbox failure as well, their opinion its useless.

One of my friend in the UK had one same problem engine failure, the car is a lemon, the guys hear have some recourse through trading standards and the dealers on the warranty.

I know thats not the case in Nigeria, and if anybody has dealt with Coscharis i have and i can tell you competence is not a meal served regularly their.

Just to give you more insight with tales of woe on the freelander, check this out http://www.freelanderheadgasket.co.uk/

laudate:

Siena, one quick question: What can be done when the engine oil alert on the dashboard refuses to go off and keeps giving a beeping sound intermittently?

This problem has persisted on a 1997 Passat sedan and there doesn't seem to be a solution. It first appeared when the oil switch got faulty. That was replaced, and a full service was done. Yet the oil alert still keeps beeping. Why?

If you are sure they changed the switch, make sure your filter is new(not clogged) and if everything is good you may have a bad oil pump(drop the pan and change pump)

mudom:

Hello Siena/others with inputs,

I just had my first experience with my automatic transmission/transaxle gear on my 2000 mazda MPV.

It just refuses to get in gear , sometimes i need to turn off the engine and start up again, sometimes it engages the first gear and moves for like 15 - 20 secs before failing or sometimes it just does nothing except showing the RPM on the increase,  atleast that was how i was able to get it home.

Inspecting the oil from the dipstick, the oil color appears transparent on the dipstick and light brown at the tip, though black/ red when inspected on a white cloth its was wipped with.

What do i do? Will a flush provide a solution, its been very okay all the while, until yesterday.

If its very recent, go do a transmission service(drop pan and change filter(s))

If its been doing it for a while, you might still salvage it.Which everway, do a service[b]now[/b] or get ready to pay big/huge money for repairs

Remember to use correct fluid as per owners manual.

laudate:

Siena, one quick question: What can be done when the engine oil alert on the dashboard refuses to go off and keeps giving a beeping sound intermittently?

This problem has persisted on a 1997 Passat sedan and there doesn't seem to be a solution. It first appeared when the oil switch got faulty. That was replaced, and a full service was done. Yet the oil alert still keeps beeping. Why?

'97 MY (model year) VW Passat has 2 oil pressure sensors, high and low level.

They are NOT interchangeable. Using the wrong ones WILL cause the acoustic oil warning to go off, once engine speed exceeds 2,150 rpm. Get these checked, the switches are colour coded brown and cream respectively.

viperman:

Sienna D man,

how u dey? , I'm about purchasing a 2000 model Landrover Freelander.

How easy to maintain a car is it? And what are it's weak-points with respect to faults and all?


holla at your man.

Viper, Komekn has said it all.

As I've stated in previous Rover threads, the Rover K-series engines are NOT durable. The heads get extremely porous, and lead to head gasket failure.

I have seldom had to do a head gasket replacement on the K-series motor, without having to have the cylinder head resurfaced, sometimes, so badly distorted, a replacement cylinder head has been required.

The 2,5 V6 is even worse, it's still derived from the I4 1,8L K-series motor, and has a worse reliability history.

Unless it's a diesel-engined model, (BMW-sourced) I wouldn't touch one. From 2001>, the cylinder head castings were improved, but not perfect.

chei!! And the car is already on thE SHIP to me


What about the 1997 infiniti QX4? How reliable a car is it?

viper i own a 2002 infiniti qx4, wonderful car, reliable, but a gas guzzler

siena,


pls a 2001 model passat glx sedan - 4motion,


how reliable is it, thanks, pls all d pros and cons , thank u

sultaan:

If you are sure they changed the switch, make sure your filter is new(not clogged) and if everything is good you may have a bad oil pump(drop the pan and change pump)

Thanks for the advice.

Siena:

'97 MY (model year) VW Passat has 2 oil pressure sensors, high and low level.

They are NOT interchangeable. Using the wrong ones WILL cause the acoustic oil warning to go off, once engine speed exceeds 2,150 rpm. Get these checked, the switches are colour coded brown and cream respectively.

Please where exactly are these oil pressure sensors located? Can you refer me to anywhere where I can get some pics.?

nkc:

siena,


please a 2001 model passat glx sedan - 4motion,


how reliable is it, thanks, please all d pros and cons , thank u

The 4-Motion Passat is pretty much an A4 / A6 quattro - the 2001 model is on the B5.5 platform, and durable.

What engine type is it? From the GLX trim, I'd say it's the US version of the UK VW Passat 4-Motion SE. If it's petrol, it'll either be a 2,771cc V6 30V, or a 1,781cc I4 20V turbo. Both engines are good, though the V6 is thirsty, and space in the engine bay can make certain repairs awkward to the less experienced mechanic.

Both engine types are good for high mileage - my A4 Quattro Sport V6 has covered 209,000 and still going strong.

Main issue on both engines is the MAF (air mass meter). When they go faulty, the car gets thirstier, and there'll be a reluctance for the motor to rev. They are relatively easy to replace, and cheap too.

Manual versions are relatively problem free, though auto / tiptronic versions can have issues with the software, affecting the shift points. The 2001 model cars are all OBD II compliant, so diagnosing faults takes only a few minutes. I use VAG-COM with the serial connector to a laptop, and also have a hand held OBD II code reader, so no issues that can't be dealt with. I would recommend you purchase a code reader / scanner, it costs, but it'll save you from "guessing mechanics", and save you money too.

Like most later generation cars, the Passat B5.5 does NOT like interrupted power, so if the battery's disconnected, even for a minute, the car MAY start up in limp-home mode. The ECU forgets the basic settings, and this is usually reinstated by VAG-COM or a handheld code reader suitable for VAG cars.

To avoid issues with power surges, don't give a friend a jump start, or accept one, unless the cables you're using have built in surge suppressors. I've had many a fried ECU, due to power surges.

laudate:

Thanks for the advice.

Please where exactly are these oil pressure sensors located? Can you refer me to anywhere where I can get some pics.?

The oil pressure switches are located on top of the oil filter housing, at the front of the engine. It's on the right-hand side, as you face the engine, by the engine mount / starter motor.

Depending on year, your car MAY have one of the switches on the end of the cylinder head. 1997 was the year the Passat changed platform type. Up till '1997, the engines were transversely-mounted, like a Golf II / III. 1997> they were mounted longitudonally, like an Audi 80 / A4.

The switches are like this - this is the brown one, the white / cream one is similar.

. . .And here's a diagram, showing both switches in relation to the oil filter housing. . .

@siena, its d 30v - v6 model, how much do u think a scanner will cost, so u r saying if my battery dies and i buya new one, d car, will not start, chei, abegi educate me.


for d oil guy, d gurus, have given u d best ansa, but if u think u knw so much, u can follow my footpath, my 92 passat , did same, all i did was remove d wire of one of them and conect it to d negative terminal of my cr, and beeping stopped, no oil wahala, since for 3yrs, lol, i feel like a champ

nkc:

@siena, its d 30v - v6 model, how much do u think a scanner will cost, so you're saying if my battery dies and i buya new one, d car, will not start, chei, abegi educate me.


for d oil guy, d gurus, have given u d best ansa, but if u think u knw so much, u can follow my footpath, my 92 passat , did same, all i did was remove d wire of one of them and conect it to d negative terminal of my cr, and beeping stopped, no oil wahala, since for 3yrs, lol, i feel like a champ

So, your car is the 2,771cc V6 30V. Engine code AMX, ATQ or BBG.

First 2 engine types are 193hp, the BBG is 190.

If the battery's disconnected, and reconnected, it will always still start, just tha the ECU and throttle body will be out of sync, so the car'll either idle very high - at about 1,500rpm, oscillate between 800 and 1,500rpm, or not idle at all without your foot on the gas pedal. It'll also have a very snatchy drive too.

A decent code reader can cost between £75 - £300.

You can also do a manual reset, which involves loading up the engine over a fair distance. So, you stay in top gear, but low speed, so the engine "labours". The ECU then "learns" the original settings of the throttle body. Sometimes, you can stay in a low gear, i.e 3rd, and drive so the revs are at about 5,500 - 6,000rpm. Noisy, and you'll need to cover a longer distance before the ECU and TB are in sync.

@siena,

how can i get d body to sync easily, without dis revs, or is that d only solution

as for d reader, just choose one good one for me, that my serve for other cars, send me the name and model, i will send to someone to buy for me, d one u use, will be ok by me.

guess its d 193bhp,lol

Siena,

Thanks a million! I have actually changed those switches twice, when they started leaking oil initially. The leakage stopped, but I guess the wrong switches were used.

Will do a thorough check again and try to get the right ones.

Thanks once again.

Laudate, that's ok. Let me know how you get on.

@siena,

, when u saw d car in d oda thread , hope it was ok

Nkc, take a look on here -

http://www.ross-tech.com/

I got mine through them, though I use the full version, and paid a fair bit for it. If just for your own car, or less frequent use, you can just download the shareware version free, and install it on a laptop.

Then, just buy the data cable - serial to OBD II from Ross Tech, or cheap off ebay, and you're ready to go.

Let me know if you need any further help with this.

Nkc, the car was ok, looked pretty clean too.

@siena, thanks, will keep u posted

ALL, especially @ Siena, I would suggest a forum to be created with a new subject title in AUTO folder to address issues such as what Siena had beed doing/had just done.

or what do u think ,

Siena, I suggest you create the subject so you can serve your people better.

cheers

Kuntash, I'll look into that possibility.

Thanks for the idea, I think it'll be good for all of us.