Olusanya827:
What would cause a clunking sound in an automatic transmission vehicle when starting out and shifting into drive or reverse? I'm using toyota Corolla spot 2012

If the clunk comes with a shudder and shake then your transmission mounts are bad

dynamicd28:
Hello everyone ,I have a Peugeot 206 1.4i 75HP (TU3JP) manual gear box.

While driving today, I could not engage any gear, had to get some boys to help Me push the car in neutral. Just before this happened, I noticed two things:

1. Idle rpm was slightly high, about 1200
2. The clutch pedal got stuck to the floor, had to use my leg to lift it back up, this has happened a few times in the past. What could be the possible reasons for gears failing to engage?

Thanks

Clutch kits have to be changed

Olusanya827:
What would cause a clunking sound in an automatic transmission vehicle when starting out and shifting into drive or reverse? I'm using toyota Corolla spot 2012

Check engine and transmission mounts or bushings. Check exhaust pipes too

kingreign:

Check engine and transmission mounts or bushings. Check exhaust pipes too

.........inner cups and linkages too

biko help me

my car brakes makes a sound like you squeezing bottle water plastic.. one ke Ke ke sound... it's usually louder when maybe i entered water or after driving for a while from cold start..
matrix 07..

I've changed brake pads and all.. I've had a mechanic check it thrice..
no avail

brake it's self is sharp everything is normal.. just that sound... most time i have to play music to distract me from the sound... who can help please

olaboyeh:
biko help me

my car brakes makes a sound like you squeezing bottle water plastic.. one ke Ke ke sound... it's usually louder when maybe i entered water or after driving for a while from cold start..
matrix 07..

I've changed brake pads and all.. I've had a mechanic check it thrice..
no avail

brake it's self is sharp everything is normal.. just that sound... most time i have to play music to distract me from the sound... who can help please

Check your brake pad shim, anti rattle pin and lastly brake caliper brackets

mayor2013:


Check your brake pad shim, anti rattle pin and lastly brake caliper brackets

ok I'd revert

olaboyeh:
biko help me

my car brakes makes a sound like you squeezing bottle water plastic.. one ke Ke ke sound... it's usually louder when maybe i entered water or after driving for a while from cold start..
matrix 07..

I've changed brake pads and all.. I've had a mechanic check it thrice..
no avail

brake it's self is sharp everything is normal.. just that sound... most time i have to play music to distract me from the sound... who can help please

Brake pad pins 'up and down'

Hello guys, Please any idea on my my Lexus RX350 2012 model finds it difficult to change gears. It’s accelerates for long before jerking into the next gear. Please I need help.

Gensmoki007:
Hello guys, Please any idea on my my Lexus RX350 2012 model finds it difficult to change gears. It’s accelerates for long before jerking into the next gear. Please I need help.

Have you scanned it's transmission?
Have you checked its transmission fluid level?

Have you scanned it's transmission?
Have you checked its transmission fluid level?[/quote][quote author=kingreign post=126329239]

I have replaced the fluid but not scanned it yet.

hello66:


Replace fuel pump or nozzle

Onces it moves fine sell that car

Na one week one repair Is Altima nickname

Thanks! Replaced noodle and it’s still same

jceesquare:

Scan the car 1st.
I had similar experience recently with a Ford Edge and it was caused by a blocked exhaust system.

Scanned it. It gave Fuel, throttle sensors and brainbox

changing the cylinder and the camshaft, I received the check engine error code P0605, which indicates an Internal Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error. Since then, whenever I accelerate my car, the throttle stops working. I have to switch the car off and on again for it to return to normal. And the car RPM do fluentuate at idle too and the rewire and the mechanic seems not to know what to do about it

The car is kia optima 2013 gdi turbo

Nissan

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lT_Xa_qwxM

My Kia Optima Turbo GDI has recently developed a knocking sound. I took it to a mechanic for inspection, and it was confirmed that the filter leading to the cylinder was blocked. Consequently, I had the cylinder and camshaft replaced. However, since then, my car has not been functioning properly. It can't accelerate beyond 40, and I have to turn off the car and restart it to get it moving again. Additionally, if I go beyond 30, the car stops. The car has been scanned, and the turbo has been checked. I was told the turbo is okay, but the car still won't accelerate beyond that limit. This issue has persisted for the past week.

salvo583:

Scanned it. It gave Fuel, throttle sensors and brainbox

Those are not scan codes

ReformerD:
My Kia Optima Turbo GDI has recently developed a knocking sound. I took it to a mechanic for inspection, and it was confirmed that the filter leading to the cylinder was blocked. Consequently, I had the cylinder and camshaft replaced. However, since then, my car has not been functioning properly. It can't accelerate beyond 40, and I have to turn off the car and restart it to get it moving again. Additionally, if I go beyond 30, the car stops. The car has been scanned, and the turbo has been checked. I was told the turbo is okay, but the car still won't accelerate beyond that limit. This issue has persisted for the past week.

Your mechanic needs to check the timing again and be sure it's correct.
You also have a turbo charger boost circuit code, so you might need to check the electrical side of your turbo charger.
I believe when you get those 2 right, it will resolve your rich mixture code.
You're technician will need more than just scan codes here. He needs to know what parameter triggers those codes from the freeze frame and work more with live data stream for direction.

jceesquare:
Your mechanic needs to check the timing again and be sure it's correct.
You also have a turbo charger boost circuit code, so you might need to check the electrical side of your turbo charger.
I believe when you get those 2 right, it will resolve your rich mixture code.
You're technician will need more than just scan codes here. He needs to know what parameter triggers those codes from the freeze frame and work more with live data stream for direction.

They've checked the timing , in fact the car sound is okay, the only issues is the accelerating part, if you don't hard press the accelerating pedal, you won't have issues, but the moment you hit hard the accelerating pedal, it will stop responding

ReformerD:



They've checked the timing , in fact the car sound is okay, the only issues is the accelerating part, if you don't hard press the accelerating pedal, you won't have issues, but the moment you hit hard the accelerating pedal, it will stop responding

Scab the car, also run live data scan. I believe your turbo or the electrical system that controls throttle body or ECM may be the issue o

ReformerD:



They've checked the timing , in fact the car sound is okay, the only issues is the accelerating part, if you don't hard press the accelerating pedal, you won't have issues, but the moment you hit hard the accelerating pedal, it will stop responding

That's because your car is running rich and flooding the combustion chamber with petrol.
Remote diagnosis would be difficult. If in Lagos, kindly call 07089030689 for further diagnosis.

jceesquare:
That's because your car is running rich and flooding the combustion chamber with petrol.
Remote diagnosis would be difficult. If in Lagos, kindly call 07089030689 for further diagnosis.

I'm in kwara state, can I call you still,?

ReformerD:


I'm in kwara state, can I call you still,?

Sure

ReformerD:
My Kia Optima Turbo GDI has recently developed a knocking sound. I took it to a mechanic for inspection, and it was confirmed that the filter leading to the cylinder was blocked. Consequently, I had the cylinder and camshaft replaced. However, since then, my car has not been functioning properly. It can't accelerate beyond 40, and I have to turn off the car and restart it to get it moving again. Additionally, if I go beyond 30, the car stops. The car has been scanned, and the turbo has been checked. I was told the turbo is okay, but the car still won't accelerate beyond that limit. This issue has persisted for the past week.

if the camshaft is not the same,it can give similar fault.They need to look at it and compare together

Hello house, please how do I deactivate my toyota venza auto alarm?

tunbosun002:
Hello house, please how do I deactivate my toyota venza auto alarm?

What about it and why would you want to deactivate it?

Hello house
Please I wanted to ask why AC fault is so common in Honda Civic 06-09. I’m trying to get one but I’ve noticed most of them have AC issue. Also, what are the general things to look out for when buying a Nigerian used Honda civic? I’m planning to take a mechanic with scanner though(I’m a car novice)

Electrician guy was trying to fix my crankshaft sensor which he could not fix due to him not having the exact spanner tool for the job, anyways my AC has stopped working afterwards, the compressor wont start. I called him yesterday evening he said he's coming on Monday to check it out. Should this be a cause for alarm. Nissan Altima 2002. Has my compressor gone bad all of a sudden?

He was also trying to fix my wiper which has stopped working. I don't know what really caused the AC to stop functioning.

Also my scanner stills throws up this p0745 code which I believe is related to my transmission pressure solenoid, I'm yet to do a complete drain of the old transmission fluid, if I do this will it fix the problem? Or do I need to get a new transmission solenoid ?

kingreign:

What about it and why would you want to deactivate it?

I want to deactivate it because of the noise, It just starts making noise for no reason or if there’s a setting to it.. I live in an estate and I do not want other residents to start complaining.

tunbosun002:
I want to deactivate it because of the noise, It just starts making noise for no reason or if there’s a setting to it.. I live in an estate and I do not want other residents to start complaining.

Is it a factory alarm or an aftermarket 3rd party alarm?

Good evening professionals in the house.
Please i need your help and i would try to make it as short as possible.
My car has been having a series of issues after i got into a pothole that broke 1 of the front hub of the front tyre. The hub was resting on the fan belt when it broke but i changed that though when i took it to the mechanic to repair because i was perceiving the smell of burnt tyre, but ever since then, my front shraft hasn't been the same again. Each time i turn the steering wheel it makes a lost of cracking noise now on both legs mostly when I'm on lets say 25 to 40kmp but above i hardly hear it. When i try to reverse or do cornering, even dangote truck steering wheel isn't as hard to steer as mine. 1 thing i noticed is that, steering wheel is soft in the morning when car is cool but cracking noise is still there and it gets hard when engine is hot. Changed shraft already on Wednesday, had the mechanic review it again on Friday because it still keeps making the same noise. Please what should i do, thinking of carrying it back tomorrow to check if it something else that's 60k drown the drain already and also, i changed the steering oil and put a new 1 on Friday but still same stiffness, i feel something else is wrong. My ogas abeg come to my aid.
2007 sienna and location is lagos.