its so painful dat nairaland had to cut off some pages of dis thread and totally remove my own thread(sad face). thank God i always make notes wen i learn, it wld av bin unbearable. lets continue wt d cowl neck.@ Efosa, blessed are you amongst women.

Awww thanks so much to all and wellcome to class its a lovely weekend for me and I hope it is for u too
Been trying to post since but etisalate dey show me pepper.but anyway let's go.

****************************************

So when making a cowl neck just like other neck lines and tops we go back to the basic principles of bodice.(Front and back bodice of a garment) in order to get this we need our measurements

So I will work with one of my students measurement,Ngozi she's a perfect small size

Shoulde-12
Neck wide- 6
Neck deepth 7
Bust. 26
Waist. 22
Hip. 26
Lenght. 25


So in all her measurement the bust and hip is the same and are the biggest so we use that to place our fabric on fold,fabric for the front part on fold as well as fabric for the back side on fold.

Eg that 26÷4=6.5
Out of these we need just 2 for the front
6.5 x 2= 13

On this 13 for the body area of the front I will add seam allowance which is 1.5 on both sides making 3.in total I will have 13+3=16

Now the Neck part,because of the way the neck is we must factor in facing on the same fabric.I call it self-facing
Generally u have to determine how deep u want the neck to be and this would determine how wide we need to make the shoulder cut
See the following images for more clearification.

[quote author=EFOSA VAL]Hummmm,wellcome to class ya all.its a lovely weekend for me and I hope it is for u too
Been trying to post but etisalate dey show me pepper.but anyway let's go.

****************************************

So when making a cowl neck just like other neck lines and tops we go back to the basic principles of bodice.(Front and back bodice of a garment) in order to get this we need our measurements

So I will work with one of my students measurement,Ngozi she's a perfect small size

Shoulde-12
Neck wide- 6
Neck deepth 7
Bust. 26
Waist. 22
Hip. 26
Lenght. 25


So in all her measurement the bust and hip is the same and are the biggest so we use that to place our fabric on fold,fabric for the front part on fold as well as fabric for the back side on fold.

Eg that 26÷4=6.5
Out of these we need just 2 for the front
6.5 x 2= 13

On this 13 for the body area of the front I will add seam allowance which is 1.5 on both sides making 3.in total I will have 13+3=16

Now the Neck part,becouse of the way the neck is we must factor in facing on the same fabric.I call it self-facing[/quote
]Following ma God bless

[quote author=stephnexi] got my tokunbo head for 15k nd bought leg 9k Alaba i asked for new one it was 23k mind u my head is not butterfly it is for normal sowing and for bag[ 15k+9k=24k. So why did u not buy new one. Meanwhile i prized butterfly in egbeda and they said 19,500 i refused to buy it cos its cheaper in enugu. So i believe that it will be cheaper from the main market

Pls how many yards of ankara will be enough for the gown my bust is 35, waist 32, hip 37

Good job u r doing here,carry on.

Class ******************************

Now still on the neck part

See how wide the shoulder area is in the picture above.let me explain using the first daigram.

The diagram shows the neck and shoulder area,it also shows how u determine the lenght of the neck down from the shoulder.

Going back to Ngozi's measurement for the neck 6 inch accross the shoulder, 7 inch deep.while her shoulder is 12inch

Now becouse the neck has to sag and we not cutting any part out like other regular necks lines we are gonno measure it in a special way
I want to sag abit so I will use the lenght of the neck deept by 2
7 is the lenght for her neck remember,now we would make this 7x2 =14

12 inch is what I measured her shoulder, so I will add that 14 I got from the neck to the shoulder which is. 12+14=26

The body part is needed now,remember we got 16 so we would use the 16 and 26 as our fabric placed on fold.

Shawdey: Pls how many yards of ankara will be enough for the gown my bust is 35, waist 32, hip 37

A yard plus.......

Shawdey: Pls how many yards of ankara will be enough for the gown my bust is 35, waist 32, hip 37

A yard plus......



Pls let's all focus on the topic at hand so we won't get distracted .

Yes Ooº°˚°˚˚˚ ! Class pls be attentive, d lesson in progress is d koko now, mam If I get u right does it mean d 16 we got at first s for d back bodice while 26 will be for d front bodice?

sunshyng: Yes Ooº°˚°˚˚˚ ! Class pls be attentive, d lesson in progress is d koko now, mam If I get u right does it mean d 16 we got at first s for d back bodice while 26 will be for d front bodice?

No both is for the front bodices alone but up and down.the up part is the neck side and that's the one measuring 26 for it to sag the 16 is for the down part of the blouse

Because I don't want the back to sag I will cut it normally and add facing.

Shoulder12
Body remember we got 16


When placed on fold it will look this when spread open it will be like the second pic

It's really interesting here

We done with the cutting its time to move to the sewing

We join the shoulder together first.

Ok ma, dat s clear but looking at d pic, how do I determine where to cut out my arm hole for d front, since her shoulder is 12 and d bck bodice we are using is 16 plus seam allowance I know I will measure 6.5 for d shoulder to cut out my armhole but for d front am lost n dat area ma, pls shed more light. Thanks

sunshyng: Ok ma, dat s clear but looking at d pic, how do I determine where to cut out my arm hole for d front, since her shoulder is 12 and d bck bodice we are using is 16 plus seam allowance I know I will measure 6.5 for d shoulder to cut out my armhole but for d front am lost n dat area ma, pls shed more light. Thanks

The bust area is 16 right while the shoulder is 12.........it means u are going to fold that straight 26 into 16 first then out of the 16 u cut out 2 on both sides of the arm whole which gets the measurement back to 12 on the shoulder while u still have 16 on the bust.
The picture below explains it all.

The facing on the front is all the way down but u can make it half way if u want.

Aunty efosa, does the front neck fold into the shoulder

Aunts Val, do we attach the lining to the front piece before joining the shoulders? Also, I noticed your back piece doesn't have lining, only facing?

Wow tenx for dis

my fabric

Mrs Val, pls wats d difference between lining nd facing? Wats facing meant for:? Thanks

njel: Aunty efosa, does the front neck fold into the shoulder

No it folds down to the chest area.

mamatwo: Aunts Val, do we attach the lining to the front piece before joining the shoulders? Also, I noticed your back piece doesn't have lining, only facing?

Well yes since the front lining is cut together with the front as double facing.

See earlier picture.

oluwaphemiee: Wow tenx for dis

You welcome

Nice fabric dear

mysteriouxx: Mrs Val, pls wats d difference between lining nd facing? Wats facing meant for:? Thanks

Lining is expected to go all the way on a fabric.while the facing stops around the neck.but basically they perform similar functions which is to give weight to the main fabric.prevent fading in certain parts of the outfit.help make seam edges neat.etc.

Class****************************************************




So after joining the shoulder we join the sides.on one side we add zip so it can be worn without stress

And here we go, thanks to Ngozi at Valisimo Fashion School for making this lovely project for us

So at least we should see like 5 completed projects on this abi? Ladies so we can move to the next one


I already have a lovely design for us to work on.

EFOSAVAL:


No both is for the front bodices alone but up and down.the up part is the neck side and that's the one measuring 26 for it to sag the 16 is for the down part of the blouse

Ok ma thanks for ur tyme.

Ok ma, thanks for ur tyme.

welldone ma, I already have the materials for this but I'm not at home now I will be back next week and I will submit my project next week by Gods grace. Meanwhile this is d pix of my own oleku we did before nairaland tsunami.