Great work u are doing here bro...God bless u

I use Mitsubishi lancer 2004, once d fuel get to half tank d car stop working until I put more fuel. I initially thought d fuel gage was giving wrong information as yo whether d tank is empty until I went to fuel station to fill d tank and it could only contain 3k fuel.

Second problem, when I start early in d morning d accelerator will not respond until it do slow for like 2minute.


thanks in advance

baldwin84:
Great work u are doing here bro...God bless u

I use Mitsubishi lancer 2004, once d fuel get to half tank d car stop working until I put more fuel. I initially thought d fuel gage was giving wrong information as yo whether d tank is empty until I went to fuel station to fill d tank and it could only contain 3k fuel.

Second problem, when I start early in d morning d accelerator will not respond until it do slow for like 2minute.


thanks in advance

Check for blockage in the evap system

autologic:
Check for blockage in the evap system

Can d blockage in evap system b d cause of both problem I sighted.

My Toyota Rav 4 2000 model start misbehaving a week ago, i have changed fuel pump, replaced Coil, changed Plugs still has the same issue. he stoped at every 5mins, i need to leave it for another 10 to 15mins to cool down. when i start it in the morning it will move at almost 25mins no stop after that he stoped at interval. Eng. pls what is the solution, i am tired.

kaybaba:
My Toyota Rav 4 2000 model start misbehaving a week ago, i have changed fuel pump, replaced Coil, changed Plugs still has the same issue. he stoped at every 5mins, i need to leave it for another 10 to 15mins to cool down. when i start it in the morning it will move at almost 25mins no stop after that he stoped at interval. Eng. pls what is the solution, i am tired.

At the instant the issue occurs ,check for ignition spark signal and if none ,check your crank/ cam sensor

kaybaba:
My Toyota Rav 4 2000 model start misbehaving a week ago, i have changed fuel pump, replaced Coil, changed Plugs still has the same issue. he stoped at every 5mins, i need to leave it for another 10 to 15mins to cool down. when i start it in the morning it will move at almost 25mins no stop after that he stoped at interval. Eng. pls what is the solution, i am tired.

Sorry for the stress brother. However with my experience, such issues are best diagnosed by an experienced tech as this is an intermittemt issue.
We need to know what exactly is happening via livedata to be able to narrow down the cause.
I have seen failed/weak fuel pumps cause this. Even a faulty fuel oump circuit can also show itself like that. I have also seen faulty cam/crank position sensor also cause an engine to die or not start when they are hot.
It is best diagnosed while the fault is present sir. Gives us a better chance of narrowing down what the cause might be.
Do you reside in Lagos sir?
Not forgetting did you ever run a scan? What were the codes you got?

baldwin84:


Can d blockage in evap system b d cause of both problem I sighted.

For the second issue ,you need to give more information .
1. How is the idle condition ( rough or smooth )

autologic:

Check for blockage in the evap system

A block in thr evap system will cause a build up of fuel vapour pressure within the tank when you fill up and therefore will not allow you fill up to maximum.
However we need to be sure if the fuel tank actually still has fuel when the indicator shows half tank on the cluster. because a blocked evap system and shorted fuel level sensor signal wire can show this also.

Good morning and happy Sunday Autosmotech and Logic and every other person
I observed last night while returning that my pointers(trafficator) lights were no longer functioning, both of them , same as hazard light
Every other thing seems fine, lights are full etc etc. It's a bank type corolla 2004... Make una chook mouth put abeg, tnx

arantess:
Good morning and happy Sunday Autosmotech and Logic and every other person
I observed last night while returning that my pointers(trafficator) lights were no longer functioning, both of them , same as hazard light
Every other thing seems fine, lights are full etc etc. It's a bank type corolla 2004... Make una chook mouth put abeg, tnx

morning brother.
kindly check the hazard fuse, the turn signal flasher relay if they are ok you will need to check the wiring.

AutoMoTech:

morning brother.
kindly check the hazard fuse, the turn signal flasher relay if they are ok you will need to check the wiring.

Ok bro, will do so and revert back
Although as I was coming back this morning, I got to a bend and it work, I got to a roundabout and it didn't again..tnx for ur response

arantess:

Ok bro, will do so and revert back
Although as I was coming back this morning, I got to a bend and it work, I got to a roundabout and it didn't again..tnx for ur response

it is obvious you definitely have an intermittent issue. definitely a partial contact within the circuit.
kindly check the fuse, ensure it sits well and there is no corossion. next identify the relay. check if it sits well. turn on the hazard swith and use ur finger or screw driver and hit on the relay lightly, it might be stuck open. if those r good then u might have a wiring problem.

Good work sir. Please my front passenger pointer only works when it's turned on to indicate my intention to turn right.

If the vehicle is locked with the remote for instance, only the driver side pointer blinks and the passenger side doesn't. If I also turn the turn signal indicator, only the driver side blinks. What could be wrong? 07 accord

kanuisagoat:
Good work sir. Please my front passenger pointer only works when it's turned on to indicate my intention to turn right.

If the vehicle is locked with the remote for instance, only the driver side pointer blinks and the passenger side doesn't. If I also turn the turn signal indicator, only the driver side blinks. What could be wrong? 07 accord

check the bulb to be sure it still works as it should. some of those bulbs use double filament which they use for different functions. if one filament is burnt, it could cause this problem.
if the bulb is ok, look for the turn signal/hazard relay. its either a 5/6 pin. try find a similar working relay and swap with that one. if your turn signal works then u av found your problem.

kindly confirm if your license plate light turns on.

some easy ways to achieving better fuel economy
1. be gentle on the gas pedal. with a heavy feet there is a high chance of using more fuel.
2. keep your tyres "properly" inflated. over or underinflation negative, y affects fuel economy.
3. regualar servicing with the appropriate oil
4. servicing/cleaning your fuel injectors and ensure no csrbon build up on your spark plugs. this can be done annually.

these are off the top of my head. Do add to the list so we can learn together.

AutoMoTech:

check the bulb to be sure it still works as it should. some of those bulbs use double filament which they use for different functions. if one filament is burnt, it could cause this problem.
if the bulb is ok, look for the turn signal/hazard relay. its either a 5/6 pin. try find a similar working relay and swap with that one. if your turn signal works then u av found your problem.

kindly confirm if your license plate light turns on.

Yes, the license plate light turns on. As for testing the filament, is it what I can do myself with a multimeter or any other basic tool or it needs to be done by a shop

kanuisagoat:


Yes, the license plate light turns on. As for testing the filament, is it what I can do myself with a multimeter or any other basic tool or it needs to be done by a shop

na easy thing bro. just remove the bulb and check if both filaments are good. if it is, swap the bulbs lets see

Please Ò.

When I pushed my gear selector (R, D) on my EOD, the car will kind of vibrate.

And when car is moving, as it increases in transmission, you will feel the little jerking on it.


Please what is the cause. Thanks great minds.

tojahh:
Please Ò.

When I pushed my gear selector (R, D) on my EOD, the car will kind of vibrate.

And when car is moving, as it increases in transmission, you will feel the little jerking on it.


Please what is the cause. Thanks great minds.

what year is your Honda accord sir?
and kindly confirm
1. when last you changed the gear oil?
2. have checked the gear oil level?
3. when checking also confirm the color of the oil.



kindly confirm so we can rule out hydraulic issues.

AutoMoTech:

what year is your Honda accord sir?
and kindly confirm
1. when last you changed the gear oil?
2. have you checked the Automatic Transmission fluid level?

1. 2003

2. Almost one month ago

3. Yes it's well gauged

tojahh:


1. 2003

2. Almost one month ago

3. Yes it's well gauged

ok. has dis problem been there before you changed the oil or it started after the oil change?

which oil did you use?

tojahh:


1. 2003

2. Almost one month ago

3. Yes it's well gauged

To add to the questions asked above, what was the colour and smell of the old oil when you drained it?
Also is the engine a v6 engine? Those engines sabi chop gears (at least from the ones I've seen).

STill here to help....

PLease guys, before any repairs.... lets make it a point of duty to run a scan on our cars before running upamdan to buy pars. Yes i kno your mechanic is a whiz. Yes is good you trust him, but for electrical faults or even any engine performance problem run a scan. Even if you will need to pay please pay and get a scan results. That way you can even do a quick online research about the problems your ECU has noted and follow with your mechanics fixes.
Do have a nice day pals...

WHY DOES MY CAR KEEP BLOWING FUSES?

AutoMoTech:
WHY DOES MY CAR KEEP BLOWING FUSES?

Every vehicle has a fuse box somewhere in the cabin, usually underneath the steering column near your feet or hidden within the glove box. These fuses are safety devices consisting of a strip of wire that melts and breaks an electric circuit if that current exceeds a safe level. You will know is you blow fuse because any of the components on that circuit will stop working, like the radio, the interior lights, or the electric side mirrors. There are a few reasons why you might continually blow the same fuse. Let’s take a look at the usual culprits.



The fuse is the incorrect amperage rating
Let’s start with something simple and obvious. Be sure to check, first, that the fuse has the correct amperage rating for the circuit it is in. The vehicle’s manual should contain a diagram with this information. Check what devices or lights are on that circuit, as it may be the case that a new amplifier pulls too much power, causing the fuse to blow. The more devices there are on one circuit, the heavier the amp load.

Each electric device, including headlights and radios, pulls a certain amount of amps from the electrical system. The number embossed on the fuse, such as 5, 10 or 15, indicates how many amps may be pulled through the fuse before it blows. Each wire in a car has a specific gauge or thickness. The amount and type of conductor used in a wire determines how much power it can handle before it overheats and melts. Electric devices also have these same limitations. They can only handle so much power before catastrophic failure and possibly a dangerous fire occur. Fuses protect both the wiring and the devices in the vehicle.



You have a short
A short circuit is simply a low resistance connection between the two conductors supplying electrical power to any circuit. There are three main causes of a short circuit. Each one has tell-tale signs we look for during our investigation. The three causes from the most common to the least common are:

+An electrical device has failed. If a wiper motor or power lock solenoid have fried and melted on the inside, it might start drawing too much power in an attempt to keep working. This overloads the circuit causing a short and a blown fuse.
+Friction against a wiring harness has caused the wire insulation to fray. This exposed wire can cause a short when it touches a ground surface. This is often the cause of intermittent shorts. As the wire moves it may only occasionally come in contact with a surface that will cause a short and a blown fuse.
+Any connector that gets exposed to the elements could cause a short circuit. If you a leak that is soaking your carpets it could cause a wet wiring harness. A wet harness can corrode over time causing an eventual short circuit and many blown fuses.


If you blow a fuse
To see if a fuse has blown, the first step is to consult the owner’s manual. The location of the box and the assigned circuit for each fuse should appear in a diagram in the manual. Most newer cars allow removal of the fuse box lid by hand or with a flat head screwdriver. Some fuses are designed to come out by hand, while others require a pair of tweezers or a smaller pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect each fuse visually, and replace as necessary. They only cost a few cents and it is a good thing to know how to do. They can be purchased from any car parts shop or hardware store.

AutoMoTech:

it is obvious you definitely have an intermittent issue. definitely a partial contact within the circuit.
kindly check the fuse, ensure it sits well and there is no corossion. next identify the relay. check if it sits well. turn on the hazard swith and use ur finger or screw driver and hit on the relay lightly, it might be stuck open. if those r good then u might have a wiring problem.

Thanks guys, it was a fuse not sitting well, all is fine now

arantess:

Thanks guys, it was a fuse not sitting well, all is fine now

Thats nice....

So you step on the gas and your car's engine responds sluggishly. It's no longer eager to get you down the road faster - instead, it's just not picking up like it used to.
At one time, this would have meant just changing the spark plugs and wires, tweaking the carburetor a little bit and maybe changing the distributor cap and rotor - the tune-up that cars required every 35k miles or so. Today, there are all kinds of potential causes for when your car hesitates when accelerating. Let's go through them, starting with the simplest ones first (like you should always do for any diagnosis).

These are all things that might not even register a trouble code and illuminate your Check Engine Light (CEL):

Clogged fuel filter: This one's kind of a no-brainer. The fuel filter can be externally mounted, located in the fuel tank, or even both. The fuel filter traps particulates before they can make their way into the fuel system and the engine. A dirty fuel filter will result in erratic performance and random sputtering and surging, and will eventually prevent the vehicle from running. If you have an external fuel filter start with replacing that if it hasn't been done in a while, it is usually a cheap and easy repair.

Weldone for the good job. Please is it possible to change a MANUAL BIG DADDY Toyota Camry car to AUTOMATIC? 2. Won't it give me problem after changing it? 3. Where can I get good mechanic that can do it? Tnnx

ojoj:
Weldone for the good job. Please is it possible to change a MANUAL BIG DADDY Toyota Camry car to AUTOMATIC? 2. Won't it give me problem after changing it? 3. Where can I get good mechanic that can do it? Tnnx

It doesn't worth it ,it is a pure white elephant project .Sell your manual to buy auto
.