ceaser:
Came across this. I realized that I was empathetic and fearful, not for myself but for those who are not already on alternative green energy sources.

It is going to be a very bumpy ride.

The only challenge that may have some impact for the wider population now is still the use of ICEs as the major mode of transportation. Once BEVs availabilty and affordability come into the mix, na OYO for Dangote and the yèyẹ́ FG.

Years of paying cheap for energy in Nigeria finally coming home to roost. The country can no longer afford it. Those of us who made the tactical foresight of switching to solar and the accompanying life style change that warrants are very lucky. I see the nation gradually adapting to new realities. No more would we see houses with tiny weeny windows. Cross ventilation and natural lights would start being a thing.

Hopefully we would see a more sustainable approach to how we use energy and that is always a good thing.

samir101ng:


@bigrovar is the resident expert on the ipowerplus inverters. He's been rocking his for over 5yrs now i think. So, i think they are okay. I don't know whether they can charge LifeP04 batteries though without some tinkering with the firmware. Just make sure sha that you are buying an original product with warranty.

Ipowerplus are actually a white labelled product from voltronic Taiwan. The inverter is used and quite popular across the globe. I have used their 24/3kva for over 4 years without any issue.

The major and known issues with them is their MPPT charge algo which has a known bug that causes their charge to go to float earlier than it should. This issue is well documented. Fortunately the community around the inverter released a custom firmware which fixes the issue.

The also released a firmware that makes it LifePo4 battery compatible. Unfortunately those firmware only apply to the 5kv version of the inverter.

samir101ng:


And risk a kazeem solar installer or the time and energy needed to put together and monitor such a system abi ?

Bro, it's too much work & time for "me". And there are plenty mainstream consumers like me in the market that prefer an alternative to DIY.

Cost & setup was a major barrier for new entrants tempted to switch over from AGM & Tubular Lead Acid batteries to LifeP04. LifeP0 need a BMS, compression (depends on user), different charging profile, etc. Generally, it needed more attention than the regular AGM or Tubular. With a server rack battery, you have an all in one unit ready to go. It comes with a BMS in built, capacitors and wiring harness for the batteries, bus bars, etc. To put things into context, check out this video for the installation of a 16s LifeP0 280ah EVE battery install https://youtu.be/iUuRRhLegrY. Fam, all this na work nah. Why do all that if i can get the SOK Server Rack Battery and install it good to go. Another context to look at is the price too. The SOK 48v 100ah Server Rack Battery is currently on pre-order for $1,739.99. A battle born 48v battery equivalent will cost you $3,196 at $799 per 12v 100ah a piece. That's a huge cost savings and makes it more attractive to buyers. The SOK also comes with a 10year warranty and its serviceable by the user which means you can replace any faulty cell yourself.



I agree. With mainstream availability comes mass adoption and the market share it commands. DIY while an enthusiastic community has limited market share compared to the main stream. As correctly pointed, as the technology matures, prices comes down and more oem's release products for the market we will see a healthy increase in adoption. Already there is a noticeable drop in demand for battery cells according to Youtuber Will Prowse https://youtu.be/ICPDTq-ePP4 since more companies are releasing complete systems. These server rack batteries can also communicate to your inverters like Victron, Growatt, MPPSolar etc so making it fit into your existing setup. It's a good development for the solar community overall.

Very option comes has a cost, it either cost you in time or in money. Your choice depends on which of those 2 resources you can spare. I chose to go the DIY route for my Lithium migration because it would get be the best bang for my money. It would also allow me to ensure that every component for the system is top quality and best practice is used. I am a handy guy and generally love spending my spare time building something and to my taste as against getting a black box that might be difficult to fix or upgrade down the road.

For SOK is offering shy of 2000k USD for a 4kwh system when for 2500kUSD you can get a good 14kwh DIY battery system with a good BMS. Of cause this route is not for everyone. Not everyone has the time to pure over documentation and guides for building a DIY battery.

In terms of integration, you can easily get a BMS that works with your inverter solar charge controller which essentially allows your DIY battery to be perfectly integrated to the rest of your components. Again it just require a little more time spent going through the documentation.

[Quote author=olopan post=110434089] As a contribution to the ongoing solar panel energy production debate, which many with monitoring system can attest to is.

For us a rule of thumb,

1. Tier 2 panels are calculated with 0.55% of nameplate or total PV capacity for period of 4 Hours.

2. Tier 1 panels are calculated with 0.65% of nameplate pr total PV capacity for period of 4 Hours


If the system is loaded I.e. energy storage and loads then it is expected to see energy production in line with above.

This proven true by remote monitoring.

Conditions based on a normal sunny day

[/quote]

I have been taking logs of my solar installation since 2017 over 80% of those logs collects real time to information every 10sec of panel generation including peak power and total generated energy for the day.

What I have come to understand is, a lot goes into your solar panel harvest than just being tier 1 or tier 2.

The most important thing is how the panels were installed. What is the angle of inclination and the direction the panel is facing.

What is th installation design. Does it flush with the roof or is it installed on a roof rack. Lastly Location location. A solar panel installed in jos would have a different average yield compared to one installed in calaba.

A well optimized panel installation beats a tier 1 panel installed "wrongly"

Here are key pointers.

Ensure your panels are installed as flat as possible. Nigeria is just above the equator so your panels so the flater your get your panel the better.

7°horizontal tilt facing through true south. Send down the rain type of roof you see in many "mansion" in Nigeria are not ideal for solar.

As much as possible avoid your panel facing the north of you have no choice then make it as flat as possible using the roof rack to offset the non ideal roof angle.

Best to avoid mounting your panel directly on the roof. The roof is the hottest part of the house and heat is the enemy of solar generation. In fact panels derate the hotter it gets and you can lose close to 10 to 20% of your generation due to heat. Mounting on a rack that elevates the panel above the roof allows for it to be air cooled and reduces heat transfer from the roof.

If you have a large compound consider ground mount but ensure they are no partial shading. Ground mounts are best. Your panels can be tilted optimally, can be easily cleaned during the dusty period and easy to earth them.

Wiring is also very important. Lots of losses can happen between the panel and charge controller. As much as possible strive for higher voltage configuration to avoid pushing too much amps down the wire. This is one of the beauty of MPPT. It allows your to string your panel into higher voltage strings thus reducing the need for large wiring and associated cost between panel and controller.

Note that the thiner the wiring conductor surface area the higher the resistance and losses. There are lots of site that that help calculate how to size your wiring relative to amps/voltage and distance.

If your panels are far from your cc, you need thicker longer cables or you might want to consider a controller that can table high voltage panel Strings like 250v and use that to reduce loses and wiring cost.

In all, it is very reasonable to get 70% or even higher from your panel if the condition is right. My 3kw panel does 2500w standard as need demand and as weather permits.

It is however good practice to size your system in the design stage with conservative figures just ensure you thrive to beat those figures in the actual implementation.

blockgeek69:
I recently installed a solar inverter system with the following setup:

1. 4 solar panels (each 300watt) = total 1200watt
2. 24v inverter system
3. 2 units of 230amp battery
4. 60amp PWM charge controller

My load at max capacity is 500 watt and could go as low as 300watt during midnight hours.

But I noticed that my battery charge depletes faster than its charging, is it supposed to be so? What i mean is, my battery could be 26v after fully charged with no load, but after 4 hours of use, it falls down to 24.5v even when the solar panel is still charging the system.

So I am beginning to wonder if this is normal or there is a problem with my system configuration or the charge controller itself since i am using a PWM cc.

Please gurus in the house, i need your input.

A lot of variable goes into solar panels that could be the problem. One thing seem show though. You are not generating enough and your load is still too high. Both side of the equation needs attention.

On the generation side, you have a 1200w panel. But how much generation do you have on a daily. What is your peak generation and how much average daily generation. Most modern controllers have some form of logs that allows you to check their daily harvest. You might also want to check that the controller is doing in peak sun hours of around 11:20-13:00. Let us start from there before we move on.

500w is too much load for a 1200w panel. Remember that you have to generate to meet your day load and change the battery over night.
Standard installation planning requires you to account for losses (Heat, wiring and lack of optimal panel positioning losses). As a general rule, it is good practice to derate your panel by 25%. That is assume 30% of your rated panel capacity would be lost during the harvest.

Using the figure you posted 1200w * 0.75 - 900w
Multiply that figure by 3 or 4 hours (Depending on your location and the number of good solar sun hours you get in a day) Don't be tempted to use high figures because this is about planning and it is ok to be a bit conversative especially as you account for rainy months.

I would use 4 sun hours.

900 * 4 = 3,600wh or 3.6kwh. This is the average daily yield your panel should have. It can be higher on a good day and for a well installed system but just slightly.

Your battery is a 5kwh bank

Your daily usage is from your post of 500w daily and 300w night load. Your night load is already about 3600wh. You are barely able to change the over night load if you don't use the system during the day.

When you add 500w on the system during the day, you have nothing left to charge the battery.

recommended course of action. Reduce your load (the cheaper and best option)
Or increase your panels. You would need an additional 3kw panel array to meet your current usage.

Bolatitodavies:
I have luminous 4kva inverter already with 80amp felicity mppt charge controller with 4x220ah and 9x350watts solar panels, so my new technician is advising i switch to hybrid 5kva adding 180k extra to my 4kva inverter nd mppt charger which i feel im being robbed. Insead, i feel with 180k extra, i can get hybrid 7.5kva instead or is he offering me a good deal?

I don't think you are going about this optimally. I scanned through your message and I still did not find why you are upgrading. Why do you need a 7.5kva inverter?

You said something about planning for future expansion. If that is your only reason then it's the wrong way to plan. Solar is not about throwing money about but rather making every money you spend count. Efficiency is key in any system.

Rather than just buying the highest rated solar components you are better off first identify your load. The character of your load in term of timing and load type.

Typically the type of inductive load like water pump, freezer and non inverter AC and Fridge are things that determine size of your inverter. Plus the number of appliances you run concurrently. Once you have this figures then you size your inverter appropriately.

One thing you should note though. The load you are placing on your offgrid setup must be one you can generate back to the system either via solar or via generator / NEPA. If you take more than you can give back to the system, your setup would not last as you would over use your battery and kill it before you get economic value from it.

The first thing to consider is your generating capacity. Solar or NEPA (case in point I once lived in a place where 20 hours light a day was guaranteed that factored into my setup)

When you have your generating capacity, you then optimize your load to use below that capacity such that your battery can get daily full charge.

Next is your battery it should be able to take your night load and be at about 50% dod by morning

(Presuming you can take it back to 100% soc by noon)

Then your inverter should be sized to be able to operate at about 30% capacity when you turn your load. Over sizing inverter besides being a waste would also put a heavy idle load on your battery.

Solar has a good second hand market, if your needs radically increases you can also sell and upgrade. (Happens here all the time)

Best way to plan for the future is ensure your installation panel like where you installed your inverter or cc has enough space to do a drop in replacement for a bigger inverter without much rewiring.

Please post the price. I am in a market for a car but I can not bothered to be calling where there is not price transparency

ajabani4allah:


Is the IpowerPlus inverter still available?

No sir. Someone I granted first right of refusal on the item's decided to exercise his right.

Hi people. Currently carrying out upgrades of my solar components. I have the following for sale.

Used Victron Smart MPPT Controller (With built in Bluetooth)
150v - 100A
VEDirect
200k

Used IpowerPlus 3kva / 24v (Built in MPPT Charge controller 40A - not sure the actual charger capacity, never used it for one day)
70k

All price is non negotiable.

Sold

Keemie:


Thank you so much for your reply. Do you have any experience with luminous tubular battery. Is it good.

They are pretty much the same. Luminous is one of the biggest battery manufacturer in India.

The things to watch for are capacity inflation which is a thing in Nigeria. I had an India battery OEM confirm this to me in private how marketers pressure them to mislabel capacity. 180AH becomes 220AH.

Second thing to what for is electrolyte. The part many don't say enough about tubular battery is pure quality electrolyte mix they have once they get to Nigeria. Most are shipped dry and then the electrolyte is mixed here in Nigeria.

Unfortunately care is not taken to ensure the right gravity is achieved or that distilled water is used. What this result to is a battery with either poor nominal voltage (and serious voltage sag issues)

Or one with too much acidity that the battery dies within a short period.

Luminous is sold by Simba and they are a big brand so probably they do right thing. I have no insight.

Keemie:


Thank you for the reply. How do I make sure that my battery depth of discharge is within the 15%-20%.

Have a handle on your load. This is the key to a successful off grid life. Lot of people put too much focus on the solar, inveter, battery forgetting that the first and most important component is your load. You need to do proper energy audit because the load determines how your system should be designed vis a vis your financial budget. It is what would make you understand what is capable within a budget outline.

I don't have to do anything about my setup. The system runs itself because the load is fixed. I know how much power I draw everyday and how much my solar array is.

My setup can generate over 2.7kw or power from the sun, out of which the house load (during the day) ranges between 350-500w. Charging the battery to full (float) requires about 1000w (for about 2 hours it takes the battery to be full from a 80% state of charge)

This all means that I have lots of redundant power to play with. Thus inverter is setup the following way

Switch to solar during the day (when the battery is higher than 26v)
Switch to Nepa (if available) when the battery voltage drops to 24.5v (Usually at night or during cloudy stormy weather) and if Nepa is not available switch to battery.

Being on premium power and being guaranteed 20 hours of power everyday means that my battery is rarely used except for about an hour when the inverter uses battery until the battery voltage drops to 24.5 then it switches to grid. 24.5 for floaded tubular battery is at about 80-90% soc.

mctfopt:


Which make and capacity of charge controller do you plan to use to run this?

The charge controller (and my solar setup is in my signature) is victron 100/150. My current arraey is 335w x 9 arranged in a 3 x 3 x 3. The end PMV is about 90v.

The controller would be able to sustain a 5kw solar array (just about)

litaninja:
You're a techie / automation somebody yourself if i remember correctly. Would it be possible to have the strings still separate and combined at the CC or inverter but switch either at the time of the day when the sun is crossing over or if the voltage level per string drops to a certain value in comparison to the other?
That way you save the cost on the extra CC....hmm, but overall harvest per day would probably be reduced. Hmmm.

That would be unnecessarily complicating things. Better to have an array not optimally aligned than to have 1 off. If am going to put them on either side of the roof. Best to use different CC.

Dishtech:
Am hearing saying flat orientation! just note that every panel perform optimal when the sun ray strike the panels at 90degree, so from our latitude only on equinox’s season that you will have more generation but less during winter and summer due to sun position

True but flat or about 10 degree inclination towards true south will give you the best all year round solar yield in Nigeria. Hard to achieve this given hour our roofing in Nigeria so as much as possible try to get the best outcome from your situation.

mcTrinity:


Good morning Bigrovar,

I want to assume that you don't have much space in your compound to execute a ground mount, hence this dilemma; otherwise you could do a ground mount and orient/incline your array properly

However, if you're looking at roof mount, I don't actually know the size of your array. If you have 12 or more PV modules, I'll recommend you simply split them into two streams of Array... One stream on South-East and second stream on North-West. And then incline them approximately.
This, in my PERSONAL opinion, should be a good option.

NB: kindly note that two streams of PV Array on two different orientations would require each stream to have its independent CC (whether standalone or incorporated into a hybrid inverter)

Cheers

I considered this option too but like your rightly noted it would require separate CC which would rack up my cost considerably.

I would have preferred a ground mount system but the total land area is 440sqm with only 121sqm land area available once you take out the house. This means that to prevent shading or partial shading, I would need a ground mount system that would be as high as the house. That is a lot of money (judging by the cost of building materials) might just be better to spend that money on extra panels.

My first choice remain to find the optimal part of the roof to throw all the panels (15 planned) and terminate to a single charge controller. I might adjust the orientation to make the panels as flat as can be without affecting the integrity of the roof.

Keemie:


Which battery did you go for. How long did it last. I need recommendation for a battery that will last for up to 3 years.

The battery I used back then is no longer in the market (Mercury Tubular Battery)

I currently use a battery with the same chemistry which I got from Lagos the name is Exide TI 750. It is also a tubular battery. I am already making plans to move to LifeP04.

My current battery is already doing 3 years easy and that is because the whole system is designed around a daily battery depth of discharge at 15-25% so the battery is almost always at between 80-100% full. This is whole the setup was designed (I basically run on solar during the day and rely on NEPA at night - leveraging on 20 hours premium power guarantee available in my area)

House gurus good to see the flag is still firing. It has been a minute since I last posted here but I do check from time to time.

I do have a question. So moving to a new place in Abuja and the choice where to install panels on the roof poses a dilemma for me.

The house roof is at about 17 degrees inclination on both side.

The problem is one side aligns south east while the other aligns north West. The little I know about solar panel direction is. As much as possible align to the South. If not then south west or west. I always feel directly facing east or north should be avoided. (Unless your panel is flat in which case it don't matter )

In my case the west which would have been ideal faces north and the eastern side of the roof faces south.

What do gurus in the house advise.

mctfopt:


Yet to check the idle consumption.

I've used one for 7 years running 24/7 and powering two fridges during the hours of 10AM to 3PM

Inverter is just so super rugged, but its charging current is pretty low (around 13A).

Idle consumption is usually on the low side. My Sukam 1.6kw was at 28w idle.

That's usually the case of most Indian inverter of this capacity.

Although in my own case it was Sukam (a defunct Indian brand and competitor to luminous) I can attest to the rugged nature or Indian inverters. The pretty much use the same components. If there is one thing negative to be said about them it's they are extremely boring and just get the job done. That and the charge current which is usually low (so year 2 things)

The reason for this is most Indian inverters are designed primarily for the Indian market and thus are calibrated for the Minimum battery setup needed.

They try to ensure they stay within the 10% recommended charge rate of FLA which is the common battery type in India.

krak101:
This is unrelated though. What's the possibility of getting some classic movies from you?

Which?

abuiltech:


No sir, I know for sure you will get them, at orile or jiji

Just to be clear. The picture you posted is a trap floor drain? And it is available in Orille? Some of the Jiji sellers I spoke to don't seem to know about it unless there is a different market lingo for things like that.

Are trap floor drains readily available in Nigeria?

abuiltech:



Yes, this is normal when you have trapless floor drain, the trap is a water seal like the one you have in WC bowl, which prevent the ingress of foul air, and insects, get floor drain with trap


Try to flush down your drain frequently with cockroach exterminator like ammonia and boil water

Bingo. Just what I wanted. Can trapleds flood drain be implemented after German floor when the house has already been plastered? (Floor is yet to be done though)

n3xt:


Use “kainkain” (local sponge) to block the drain hole to keep roaches away

Hmm this might work. But would require servicing the hole. Replacing it frequently as the kainkain would become easily clogged with sludge.

I was hoping that we have floor drains designed to prevent this.

Hello my Oga in the house. I have a question about a small but quite important aspect of a house that is often over looked. Floor drain. I have noticed that they eventually become a major entry point for roaches and sometimes rodents (like rats mice)

The generic floor drain used in most homes is a big culprit. You can mitigate by periodically flushing down a mixture of sniper but you need to be doing this sometimes once every 2 months.

I once found a flood drain that has a closing spring system which allows you tap ( with your foot ) to close. Unfortunately they did not last and the closing mechanism eventually got stuck closed.

Does anyone have an idea how to have a floor drain that is designed to be resistance to pets and other crawlies. Is this something anyone here has noticed ?

Hey my Oga in the house. Please what type of tank stand is appropriate for a bungalow with not more than 2000l water tank. The total height would be 6 Meters (19 feet)

Would steel pipes be ideal or H Beams

twinskenny:


Been setting up home automation for sometime now.. I usually import all my speakers and amp

This is the way if you care for quality home theatre audio Available in the market is appalling the best audio system sold by Fuani house (primary dealer of LG) is a dated 5.2 system that was discontinued sometimes in 2015 by LG and does not even support 4k.

For home automation. I have it integrated with my solar energy management system. The system is set to prioritise the cheapest source of power available at any given time.

Solar if solar is not available then grid if grid is not available then battery if battery drops below a voltage set point then generator.

I also use sonof smart switch to turn off heavy duty appliances like freezers during heavy rain and cloudy. Days when solar is not sufficient.

The whole setup is self running without human intervention mostly DIYed using open source tools like home assistant and some python scripts.

For home entertainment. I have a 60 Terabyte storage system
16TB for an active Network Attached Storage configured in redundant array for fail over in case any one drive fails.

There is a 10Tb active backup of 16tb storage
And 30tb cold storage full of backed up content.

Movies are automatically downloaded by a torrent tracker and saved to the NAS. This means over 2k movies in 1080p and 4ƙ ( including most classics like all James Bond release, all Harry Potter , complete star wars, complete marvel cinematic)

Complete Season of Voltron classic (84)
Muppet babies
Super Ted
Courage The Cowardly dog etc

Internet is handled via fibre for now. However I would be moving to a new place which doesn't have finer so so am preparing a dual SIM cat6 external LTE router which would have MTN and Airtel in failover mode for Internet. The external LTE router comes built in with a 9Dbi gain antenna allowing it pick signals 14km away.

n3xt:


It’s nice catching up with a home theater hobbyist. I’ve been a member of avsforum for more than 2 decades.

Dolby Atmos is a big name to consider if you want to heighten your home cinema surround sound experience.

Bros we are not many in this parts. I currently use a 5.4.2 Dolby Atmos speaker system from Samsung. Bros watching Dolby content has been a life changer. Movies like Gravity, Saving Private Ryan, Lord of The Rings Have been a joy to watch in Atmos. It brings the room alive.

The height sound is so immersive they are times I find myself move my head to avoid an helicopter flying over head. Or look up at the ceiling to check for electric spike or window if it is raining.. Glad that Apple is heavily promoting height sounds so we would see more speakers supporting this great feature.

My goal for next year is to upgrade the TV to 75 inch using LED tech with lots of local dimming to reduce blooming. I don't have money for a dedicated home theatre system but I would get good automated blinds that convers the windows automatically when a movie is being played. (Using home assistant)

n3xt:
In The Making | Home Cinema

Installation of the acoustic foam pad for bass trap and fibre glass insulation ongoing.

The cinema room is too dark. No pic update on this yet.

Wow nice one. Would be interesting to know the speaker system to be deployed. One of my fun hobbies is home speaker and audio system.

It is incredibly hard to get modern cinema Audi system in Nigeria likes of in ceiling Dolby Atmos or DTSX native 7.4.2 speaker systems is hard to find unless you are bringing from abroad

spyder880:


You might be looking for these, average cost for these imported doors are about N500,000.

Thanks bro. Money good o just a bit over my budget sha. My sweet spot is around 500k for double front door and single back door

Is there a chance I can get a strong reliable security door. Doesn't have to be bullet proof. (I believe whatever would make someone shoot at your door, it's better you just open it for them. Your security is already compromised. Such person can easy come through the roof or shoot through the windows)

My people I have come again o for help. I just bought an estate property in Abuja for my use as residence.

The particular property is still in Caracas but the sale was for a finished house. I spoke with the developer of the estate on the need to align so that upgrade some of the standard finish they would use for the house.

He has introduced me to the people he buys market from. The things I intend to change are.

External doors and electrical fittings

I have been following the discussion around doors some thread back.

I need advise on external doors. The estate uses the cheap Chinese doors - double in front , single at the back.

I am looking at Turkish doors which from my findings cost between 160-180k for double doors

Or Israeli doors which cost about 250k to 300k

I am not looking for a bullet proof door just something that is durable and solid. Something you can not just kick open. I really don't know much about doors and what to watch out for. Please � advise would be appreciated.

On electrical socket. If there is any brand you can recommend I would appreciate too. Cheers.

NB I have attached a picture of the house in question

michlins:
my advice about doors or anything else concerning building is simple.

If you can't afford the best of the foreign builds, go for our locally made products.

Any foreign door less than 250,000 for 3ft is not worth it. Just calculate the exchange rate and add the cost of shipping and clearing plus other expenses and profit and you will get an idea of what it's like. I saw some wooden doors in Lagos and trust me, they're better than any foreign door you can get with ₦1m in Nigeria now. Funny enough, they cost just about ₦100,000. But you order for them and they will start looking for the woods.


When it comes to rails, don't do anything stainless steel. I have been to an estate and majority of the rails there are already in pieces. And there's no one occupying the houses. The client I was on his project told me point black that none of those will touch his building.


What happens to imported goods is that our people will get there,see the available samples and their prices and choose to buy the least available quality while marking up the prices for maximum profits. Sometimes I don't blame them because the purchasing power of Nigerians are very small and can't afford the best quality. But then we have an insatiable taste for imported goods even if they're fake. I see Aba made shoes branded with made in Italy.

My advice is simple,build as if you're building forever. It's your project and your money so don't allow anyone put pressures on you. Money is hard to come by so spend it wisely.

If you have a plug to import goods and determine the quality, kindly do that. You will be glad you did. Anything outside of that, source your goods locally and determine the quality.


Let me enjoy my "sit at home". I'm supposed to be in Imo state but here we are

I hear this arguement a lot and it is simiply not true. Look at the situation with wires and electrical cables. till date Nigeria wire is the standard. This will show you that what people care about the most is quality and standards.

the problem is, the high cost of doing business in Nigeria makes it hard to be competitive and drives down productivity. Nigeria local manufactuers go through a lot just to come through. issues plenty.

the known ones like power, logistic infrasturture, difficult regulatory regime (SON, etc)

add other soft issues like lack of access to cheap capital to scale their business. A lot of local manufacturers don't have the scale to produce emass because they just don't have money to buy machineries.

The world is a global village and a door manufacturers in Nigeria is actually competing with manufacturers in other countries. If your competition has better climate than you he would sell better even to your market.

Yes we have good made in Nigeria building materials just often time they may not be of same variation or standard or design as some foreign brands but Nigerians still buy them. Even in America and China people still buy imported. What is important and a good judge of local manufacturing is export. How many people guy are stuff. How many do we. Can we export.

bigrovar:
Hello Friends,

I started my passport renewal at about 5th of September. The process was suppose to be fast track and my contact promised 3 working days. I did capturing same day of 5th.

There was an issue with how my name was arranged in my NIMC and previous passport but I wanted the renewal to carry the correct format in NIMC.

However I am yet to get the passport. My contact is telling me there is a "network problem" with NIMC affecting the production this according to him stated about a week ago.

Can anyone confirm if indeed there is a problem with NIMC network affecting passport issuance in the last couple of weeks?

Got my passport today. Stated the process on 6th if this month. Once capture same day got the passport this afternoon.

Not DIY o. I knew someone who knew someone

Hello Friends,

I started my passport renewal at about 5th of September. The process was suppose to be fast track and my contact promised 3 working days. I did capturing same day of 5th.

There was an issue with how my name was arranged in my NIMC and previous passport but I wanted the renewal to carry the correct format in NIMC.

However I am yet to get the passport. My contact is telling me there is a "network problem" with NIMC affecting the production this according to him stated about a week ago.

Can anyone confirm if indeed there is a problem with NIMC network affecting passport issuance in the last couple of weeks?