More details on the specs https://www.lg.com/eastafrica/audio-video/lg-lhd687

Price on Konga is 220k

.

Enddy50ty:


Post full pictures and details

No other picture. You can. Google the speaker to see the review.

I got this Home theater system as part of a promo from Fouani shop (LG Sole authorized dealer in Nigeria). The Home theater system is brand new. I opened the box to test that it is working and put it back. I got the speakers yesterday but I did need it since I already have samsung speaker and didn't need this one.

It is going for 120k.
The system is a 4.2 surround speaker with powerful dual subwoofer
The sound power is 1250w and produces earth shaking sounds and with heavy bass.
Convenient connectivity
Listen to the radio or play a DVD or CD connected through an Aux or HDMI cables and USB. With various connectivity options, setup your speaker to meet all your entertainment needs.

The market price for this speaker is 160-180k

The speaker has the 2 year warranty from LG.

Abuja

darediamond:

Sarcastic response will pave way and egg on ignorance alone.

Be ready to learn.

Answer my simple question: "what is RESONANCE?"

I am into Power Generation not mere application because without Electric Power, No Show.

No vex. Peace and love from my side.

darediamond:

Yes, Lithium Ion do have Memory Issue. If you do not have practical experience of what that means, then read about it at least.

If I tell you all challenging me now that with Resonant Inverter, you can with 300W Monocrystal Panels power a Load of 1KW or more, you will all say it is a lie because of what majority of you have been wrongly taught in school.

The Back Emf you are all wrongfully taught in those govt controlled schools local or abroad can actually be used to power loads when it is collected at RESONANCE.

What is Resonance?

Can you answer?

Question makes Knowledge.

It is a good thing you were well thought in school. it is all clear to see.

bigrovar:


The key thing to watch out for is the voc of your charge controller. That is the highest input voltage it can take from a pv. You need to ensure that whatever string you go for, the string voc must never come close to or exceed that of the cc.

145v doesn't give you much room, and for some of this Chinese controllers you don't want to go near their limits hence the reason for a 2 in series string and then parallel the 3 strings. I am putting this here so that those reading would understand the logic behind the 2S3P recommendation.

Just to add, one more reason for recommending a 2S3P configuration is to allow the controller to be more efficient and reduce loses when doing dc to dc conversation. Just ensure that you have the right wiring to ensure voltage loss is reduced.

The length between your controller and cc should also be factored in. If you have the panels installed on a roof 3 floors away, or about 10+ meters, then you might want to consider a 3s2p config. This means more voltage is send down the wire and you can spend less on wiring and ensure voltage loss is minimal.

ObabyObaby:
Good evening all, Pls what's the best way to configure my panels
6 pieces of 300w solar panel
Felicity charge controller 60a (voc 145v
Inverter24v 2500va

Valto
Niyi
Bigrovar
Olopan
Ojeysky

The key thing to watch out for is the voc of your charge controller. That is the highest input voltage it can take from a pv. You need to ensure that whatever string you go for, the string voc must never come close to or exceed that of the cc.

145v doesn't give you much room, and for some of this Chinese controllers you don't want to go near their limits hence the reason for a 2 in series string and then parallel the 3 strings. I am putting this here so that those reading would understand the logic behind the 2S3P recommendation.

kola42:
Bosses, please can I connect 12v solar panel to this ?

I doubt that product is still in production, unless you are using an old used version. Yes it allows you to add a solar panels (comes built in with a pwm solar charge controller)

There is a review here https://upsinverterinfo.com/sukam-brainy-solar-inverter-price-with-panels.html

This was one of the devices that pulled me into solar. My initial plan was to setup one for use. I ended up not going with it but it was quite close.

darediamond:

I hate giving Fish.
I prefer making you a Fisher Man with a Difference!

Never buy any how inverter. Buy Modern PURE SINE WAVE INVERTER alone. Inverter painted in Blue and Black are most times Pure Sine Wave Inverter.

Never buy Amperage Hog inverter that uses low frequency transformer(60hz/50hz) for dc to ac conversion.

The Heart and Back Bone Of Solar Gen Set is the Solar Panel not Inverter nor The Controller of any type.

Buy only MPPT controller alone and if you can Not afford Lithium Titanate Oxide Battery, Go for Lithium Phosphate or Worse Lithium Polymer.

** NEVER YOU BUY Lithium Ion Battery nor SLA or sealed lead acid battery oo. ** Never!!
Always use Thick Gauge, Insulated Pure Copper wire for your battery charging and Battery discharging.

For your 800W load, if you intend to simultaneously charge your batteries and still have enough power to power your intended devices,

Get at least 10 pieces of 200Watt Solar Panels
Get one peace of 24Volt 200AmpHour Lithium Phosphate Battery Pack
Get 150Amp Variable Voltage MPPT Solar Controller
Get one 4 Kilowatts Non-Transformerlles Pure Sine Wave Inverter or better still one 4KILOWATT Pure Sine Wave Hybrid Inverter.

Bros I have one advise for you. Stop talking or offering advise on solar, battery or electricity generally.. especially offline. When you do things like this online it can easily be spotted and called out before it does damage. The worse case is when you spread this complete falsehood to family and friends many who might look up to you. Na god I take beg you. Don't take it out of the next. This came from a place of love.

truthbetold22:


Shut your stupid mouth. The lithium batteries I currently use, i imported myself from china. I am trying to be cultured wit u but u want me to go all out. Stupid Nigerians who think they have to make 50% profit on imported goods. Where did you import a cbm of battery goods for 500k? I import for a living. If you want proper contacts, you ask instead of spewing stupidity. How much is an entire container of batteries that a cbm is 500k?

Wether 24v or 48v, your batteries are ridiculously priced and u are no better than the alaba dealers that you curse here everyday. At 24v, that is still over 600k for a 24v 200ah bank without balancing and a proper bms. Because u have joined a group to import a few pieces of batteries now, you have suddenly become an expert on battery goods. You want to place all your life problems on this few pieces of batteries you want to sell.

Simple ask for contacts so i show u how it is done.

slowpoke!!

This is totally unnecessary and uncalled for. Please let us make this place civil. We leave in a free market country anyone is free to put price on their items and the market will decide. No one is a monopoly on lithium so I don't understand. Calling someone greedy because he did not sell at your price is just being entitled. Everyone should sell at a price they are comfortable it. No one is forced to buy. If you set at a high price and no one buys from you, no one will teach you to adjust.

This is free market, if you can offer batteries at a cheaper rate by all means and if you want to share information on how people can buy batteries cheaply by all means share and move on with you life. Market is about willing buyer willing seller.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
It looks good and checks nearly all the boxes with this clarification.

Panels connected to Earth rod!

All Earth rods connected together for equipotential bond!

The only place we differ is how and where to attach the earth cables to the panels - the literature says to attach to panel frame and mount rack frame, I do only the mount rack frame (properly installed the panel frame and rack frame should be mechanically and electrically same potential.

Thanks. I essentially followed your back channel advise on earthing. Including using Ground Enhancement Materials in place of the traditional charcoal and salt.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
My Oga GeekMaster Extraordinaire.

I have not forgotten the detailed tutorship and intro to Raspberry Pis you so kindly gave me back in the day - you rekindled the cold fires from my Linux admin days in my head.

Yours is a very elegant and simple dashboard - I love it.

I had some concerns about your panel earthing I wanted to discuss publicy for wider inputs and in case anyone wants to emulate.

1) Did you earth the panel frames themselves via the provided earthing point or did you earth the panel rack mounts?

It is preferable to earth the mounts instead of panels themselves for reasons below

2) Is the earth rod dedicated to the solar panels bonded to the rest of your facility earth? Electric code, personnel safety and field experience dictate an equipotential bond for all earth rods in a facility.

Now why do you not want to earth panels directly? Hybrid inverters that combine the DC-PV and AC buses sometimes throw random errors and faults because of the stray/leakage currents and ground loops between a seperately earth bonded panel and inverter protective earth - remember the inverters also have a N-PE bond (link neutral and earth inside the inverter) when disconnected from mains and inverting power from batteries - because these hybrids are also budget offerings and internals poorly isolated you will find stray currents jumping around and causing damage or random faults.

Some Solar CCs are positively grounded (rare to see such in Naija) those will likely suffer catastrophic damage if you ever use them with a negatively grounded panel.

With your system consisting of robust Victron CCs and Inverter, these issues are present but mitigated somewhat by the robust design and fault protection inbuilt and the fact that DC and AC buses are isolated but people who use hybrids and el cheapo asian CCs may want to be very careful if they choose to connect their panels to earth.

Overall, I have found that the most accomodating approach that works for all systems is to connect the panel mounting racks to earth and link all facility earth rods together for an equipotential bond - if there is an equipotential earth bond at the facility, the wire from panel rack to earth can be attached to one of the rods directly buried in the ground since this is already at thesame potential as the PE service to which the inverter is connected. With this scheme you get all the protection from static electricity and lightning hits and minimise the downside of equipment damage.

To clarify an already very confusing arena - an earth or earthing is when you connect the non current carrying parts of a system e.g chassis or frame or designated earthing point on a piece of equipment to an earth rod or other conductor buried in the earth while a ground is when you connect the current carrying parts of a system e.g neutral wire/bus to the earth.

Thanks for the compliment boss. I actually connected the eart lugs and by extension the cable to the PV frames not to the mount frame. All the writing said to connect to PV frame. I however have it connected to a bonded earth rod. I have 3 earth rods all bonded together within a 3sqm area. The PV earth cable terminated to an earth bus bar from one of the earth rod. I just made sure the cables were straight with little curve or right turns. The cable went from the roof straight to the ground terminal directly under the panels.

What is your take on this setup.

Finally completed the upgrade to the solar setup. For context I started the solar journey with 2 tubular batteries and a 1.2kw 24v Sukam inverter tired to a 480w ground mounted solar system.

Over the past 6 years. The system was gradually scaled to what it is today. 5kw array, 5kw Inverter and 14kwh lifePo4 batteries.

The last set of work was to ground the panels. I got some panel ground lugs which were used with 16mm bare copper cable and terminated to a ground terminal.

I also configured a raspberry Pi for gathering system logs and usage for us for a new solar dashboard available here
http://energy.openculture.org.ng:8080/dashboard/view?id=46

What is left now are small finishing off work.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
You need a GX device or Raspberry Pi or other PC running Venus OS. So the CCGX, VenusGX, CerboGX will all work.

The charge limit done via DVCC from a GX device is specific to battery charging - the GX will keep instructing the CCs how much power to allow to pass per time - just enough power to service loads and keep the battery amps where you want them to be.

Whereas if you set a charge limit at the CC, that is a global amps limit - you are simply speccing the max amps that the CC will allow to pass through itself for both battery charging and loads

I do agree with this but then it has to be said implementing the above. An array that can resupply your batteries 50% dod in a day and using tech to smartly feed your battery with just what it needs. All these are not options for a cost sensitive system.

And over sized array is more money coupled with using it with gears from Victron ecosystem which are some of the most expensive around. The question to then ask is. If am going to be spending all that money on an off-grid setup. I won't use LA.

I am and have always been for linking economics with solar. If you are on a budget the focus area should be on your consumption. Limit energy consumption so that you can cycle your LA at about 35-40% dod that way you can have a reasonably sized panel that can effectively charge your LA battery. This would ensure you get the best from your battery and good ROI.

This was my secret for getting the most from my LA batteries. After 3 years the decommissioned Tubular battery can still their full capacity at C20 Discharge without going below 11.5v per battery. The average cycle was 40% dod and where always too charged every day.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
While Lithium remains the superior chemistry, let us not bash lead acid tech so much that we begin to put out incorrect info.

First off, all lead acid chemistries are not the same. As far as I know flooded batteries can safely accept charge at 13% of capacity so a 200Ah battery can take 26A easily with no trouble, AGMs can easily do up to 25% of capacity so your 200Ah AGM battery will take 50A no trouble.

If you are sized for typical 50% DoD then it should be possible to fill up your batteries in one solar day keeping within safe limits. Not to forget also that ideal sizing for offgrid lead acid battery is 3 to 5 days autonomy and if you are so sized, C rates stop being a problem.

I just need to add, while I do agree with all your said. It still needs to be emphasized that your over night usage is still limited by how much would allow you fully charge the battery. The lower you go the more difficult it would be to fill up the next day leaving your battery in a circle of partial state of discharge which is very bad for LA batteries.

As part of my system upgrade, I decided to use my Ipowerplus 5kva Inverter as a second charge controller and terminated the new array of 2kw to it. I would never have done this before now but I had to keep things within budget. The axpert MKS series of inverter which the Ipowerplus, Gennex and likes are based on has a known bug MPPT Bug which causes the inverter to switch to float early under certain conditions. The bug pretty much makes them completely unreliable and not fit for purpose because it has the potential to damage your batteries leaving it under charge.

In my research I noticed that the community around the axpert series released a custom firmware which fixes this bug and add more functionality to the inverter. One of the functionality is add is to make it more compatible with Lithium battteries. I flashed my inverter to these firmware and the result has been amazing. You can read more about this firmware and other important information about this type of inverter here https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=4332

NiyiOmoIyunade:
While Lithium remains the superior chemistry, let us not bash lead acid tech so much that we begin to put out incorrect info.

First off, all lead acid chemistries are not the same. As far as I know flooded batteries can safely accept charge at 13% of capacity so a 200Ah battery can take 26A easily with no trouble, AGMs can easily do up to 25% of capacity so your 200Ah AGM battery will take 50A no trouble.

If you are sized for typical 50% DoD then it should be possible to fill up your batteries in one solar day keeping within safe limits. Not to forget also that ideal sizing for offgrid lead acid battery is 3 to 5 days autonomy and if you are so sized, C rates stop being a problem.

Absolutely, if you note I was referring to Tubular which seem to the the fad these days. Yes AGM has higher rate of charge discharge compared to Flooded batteries like the Tubular type. In fact in certain situation I do recommend an AGM battery over Tubular for this very reason. The are the closest to Lithium in terms of charge / discharge rate and efficiency.

Namzy:

Lol like I said it's just speculation because I doubt whether you've seen overcharging kill a tubular battery. You can check the health of tubular batteries using specific gravity which has been great so far. I'll definitely update come January 2023.
P.S my lowest SOC has been about 60% and according to my bmv battery monitor. My battery has been cycled once

True but gravity won't tell you the state of the lead and if they are being degraded. You will have high gravity from your hydrometer but that's just half the story.

Namzy:

Lol when I started my solar journey, I designed my system after yours. Although you've upgraded I'm still using my ipowerplus 24v 3kva and 2 tubular batteries. From my experience and forums I've checked this C20 charging has always been the rule but when I saw how much power I was wasting from my installed 2720w panels, I increased the charge controller amps to 100amps. Yes I decided to offer my batteries as an experiment as I've yet to see where overcharging killed tubular batteries. I have been using it like this for over 1 year and specific gravity is still good on all cells. Increasing the amps helped with using heavy loads like microwave and inverter ac as with the initial C20 limit, you can't run those loads while battery is charging. The only disadvantage for now is smell of the hydrogen and increased rate of topping up battery water of 2 months interval which is OK by me. If batteries die, then lithium it is. But for now I'm liking my tubular with increase charging amps

The high C rate charge won't kill the battery over night. Flooded batteries are quite resilient, however just know that most of the 100A you are pumping into the battery will be converted as heat. Lead Acid just can't process all of it as stored energy. Remember that batteries are essentially chemical energy. The composition of Lead Acid with electrolyte can only optimally process C20 anything about that is converted to heat and will gradually degrade the lead which will shorten the life of the battery.

I had a system I use in managing my 4 x 200AH Index tubular. The goal is to make my consumption generally very efficient such that my over night use is about 45% DoD. I then have an over sized panel set at 3000w. This ensures that as day breaks and the panels start charging.. slowly ramping up .. the amount of energy pumped to the battery from 3000w panel leaves bulk by 11am (due to relatively low battery depth of discharge) and by the time solar panels are at peak generation, battery is on absorption and CC is cutting back on the amount of currents going to the battery. This ensures that I maintain a safe charge limit for the battery.

This strategy however needs my night discharge to be low. It worked for me though for over 5 years.

I currently leave completely offgrid no NEPA connection at all. My solar capacity is 3kw, battery is 200AH 48v. Even though my panel can provide me 50A and can theoretically charge my bank in 4 hours (say 5 hours) The tubular chemistry means that it would take 2 to 3 days to fully charge that battery.

Bulk charge at 40A would take close to 4 hours after which it would switch to absorption.. thus limiting the current going to the battery by as much as 10A. And it can do it his for 3 to 4 hours depending on discharge.. effective sunlight is done by 4PM.. remember this is an active system and I have loads connected to it.

Over night I will draw down the battery again from the partial state I left the night before.. starting from a low position.. again battery slow charge would mean I may never finish charging it again in day two cause battery can't take all I have to give.

I can not expand my panel to 5kw cause my battery would not be able to take most of it so it would be a waste. This slow charge for me is the biggest problem LA has. That and partial state of discharge problem.

samnaija:


This your post is very biased, there is no dispute that lithium is the new baby in town, but don't disuade people from options they have.

Disuade Ke? Are we kids here or did I threaten anyone. I just stated my truth and what works for me. Everyone is free to make their decision. Just be comfortable with it

First your statement above 800w solar system you want to push 50amps how ?..

All you described above is under panel size and you know it.

"When I started my solar journey" check my profile for my current panel capacity. And yes I fear of leaving my battery in partial state of discharge forces me (then) to have to prioritise a full charge causing me to turn off load if I don't have sufficient solar supply. Lithium doesn't have that problem I can leave it at 60% charge for the next 8 years and it would even be better for it.

Now a days my problem is reversed. I have more solar potential than my battery can take causing me to waste lots of energy even as my battery struggle to fully charge.

Lithium is great, but every one keeps saying the same thing. Pls be balanced. The only disadvantage of lithium which no one likes saying especially we wey dey naija na price....

Now someone will quote and say you can discharge lithium to 80%, you cant try that with lead, so it is cheaper. Why will I want to discharge batteries every time to this DOD, my battery bank is not adequate. Someone will say lithium loves to be discharged, everyone on this forum that have started their solar journey has an inbuilt fear of DOD. You should na money be batteries. Cycle life in batteries for both lithium or lead is what determines how long your batteries go stay.

Bros build according to your budget and what you can spare. I used lead acid till now and it served me well. My first 2 tubular batteries served me for 3 years under careful management. The current battery is now at 3 years and still has most of its capacity when I last did a capacity test. Lead Acid is good but it can nolonger meet my need. I find that lifePo4 is on per with *premium* lead acid (likes of fullriver DC, Trojan AGM, etc) especially if you go the DIY route. And it would serve better. But if your budget is tubular and it serves you well. Please continue using what works for you.

It is comfort everyone dey find.
The best scenario either lithium or lead is to have a big enough and adequate bank size and have a reasonable amount of solar panels to charge it.
You mentioned you will be struggling to charge your batteries on a rainy day so you switch off for it to charge... Haha.! You know.
Both batteries and panels should be expanded to accommodate this.
Both lead acid and lithium are okay, they have their disadvantages and advantages,

Lithium is the future.
Lead acid is ok

Racking up lead acid would not solve the slow charge problem. Like I said when designing your system. Don't use your battery or solar panel capacity to determine your daily load. Rather use your battery C rating. Tubular has a recommended charge rate of C20 this means even if your panels is 2million watt if you have say a 400Ah tubular battery, you can only use 40A to charge it. Anything above 40 and it get wasted as heat (reducing its lifespan). That 40A is even best case scenario because once it gets to absorption, it would cut down on current by as much as 50 to 80% taking sometimes 8A from your panel to complete charge and it can be like that for 3 hours. We have just 6 usable sun hours (on a good day) in Nigeria so do the maths. If you have your battery constantly monitored you will struggle for a full charge.

I am not discouraging LA. Just stating the fact to help people properly design their system so it can last. The more your battery last the more you have your ROI.

isangjohnson:
[quote author=Penuelseun

Can't we do this thing without top balancing?
I'm not just comfortable with this balancing of cells.
If there is lithium battery that doesn't require balancing of cells, please let us know.
Until I see a lithium battery someone fixed and stayed for two to three years without balancing anything, I'll continue with my 50% DOD battery.

To can always get a server rack (ready made) lifePo4 battery which come ready to use.

Top balancing can be quite delicate and requires some reading and configuration setup. Generally lifePo4 has a higher and steeper learning curve compared lead acid. But it is still worth it in the end. The DIY route is not for everyone very little room for error.

The biggest advantage of lifePo4 over lead acid is not the cycle or discharge depth. lifePo4 recommended discharge is 80%.

The best thing about lifePo4 is the ability to leave it for a long time in partial state of charge. This makes it perfect for solar application because unlike lead acid which needs to be 100 top charged almost all the time - when I was starting my solar journey with just 800w panels I would on a bad day turn off the load to prioritise battery getting fully charged. , lifePo4 actually prefers to be in partial state of charge. What this means on difficult solar months like July and August, you aren't under pressure to have your battery fully charged. It can be cycled to 70% or less without issues.

This brings to the next issue with lead acid. The charge rate of most lead acid is very low. My 9kwh tubular battery as a recommended charge rate of c20 which for my 200ah bank is 20A. My solar panel can deliver over 50A but my battery can only take 20A. Hence if I deplate battery down to 80% dod, it would take 2 sometimes 3 days to fully charge not because I don't have solar capacity but because my battery is inefficient and can only take so much charge.

Lead acid charge rate gets worse at absorption I have to suffer through 3 hours of absorption where current is tapered down to 10A sometimes 5A (even though my panels can push over 50A).

What all this means is that with lead acid especially flooded, you are limited sometimes not by your solar potential but by your battery ability to take charge.

Lithium can be charged at C1 which in my case means I can push all 50A to my lithium. So lithium ability to fast charge which again is perfect for solar application.

Add the ability to use the battery for 10 years when cycled to 0% and you would not mind putting up with the initial learn curve for lithium.

Penuelseun:
He meant that you should be careful of not shorting out the bare lifepo4 cells you posted as they are all in parallel. You should put a covering over them to prevent any unfortunate event until you are done with the top balance.

Oh thanks. I was super careful. The too balancing is done.

abilityC:


Congrats, nice setup! Is there any online shop that has the bench power supply? where did you buy yours from?

Got it from Amazon (us) but it is also available on AliExpress

Dam5reey:


Weldone boss, DIY is cool..

One need to be super careful too, any short on those parallel cells is 4500AMP discharge oo

Thanks the way I install my panels reduces chances of short. Panels are actually paralleled at the combiner box (there is a positive combiner box and a negative combiner box) close to the charge controller. This way less amps are sent down the wire from PV. Downside is you get to use lots of wires.

Finally bit the bullet and jumped onto the Lithium train. Took delivery of brand new grade A Eve Lf280k last week and it has been an exciting journey making them into an SAY bank for a 48v setup.

Before I got the batteries I got a bench power supply to help with top balancing, orings terminal plugs for terminating the BMS balance leads, JBD 7S-20S 200A BMS ILSCO de-ox (for preventing oxidation when two incompatible metals meet)

I also used the opportunity to add to my panel capacity from 3kw to 5kw with the addition of 4x 540w JA panels (thanks to JustAskMannuel)

Currently too balancing the batteries (they are almost balanced currently at 3.6v per cell.

Would be providing updates once setup is complete.

bodeface:
Thanks so much Earthrealm, I quite understand this will be very costly, is there anything I can do to reduce this cost?
Pls more comments and reviews from experienced hands on the forum is welcome and appreciated.
I remember someone was having this kind of idea for shopping mall, was this achieved may be I can learn one or two things from the project?

One thing I have always told people here and everywhere is to rethink their relationship with electricity when they want to move to solar. This include focusing on the consumption side before the generation side. The ultimate goal of solar is to reduce and make efficient your energy consumption. Buying solar panels battery and inverter is the easy part. The hardest and most important part is to focus on making your load energy efficient.

The load you listed are way too much to make using solar economical. A Good strategy might be to find efficient alternative of what you currently have or to isolate the small essential loads away from solar. We are all enthusiast here but even we would tell you that solar is not a silver bullet. It can be very costly if you want to deploy it for industrial use.

The big boys who use solar for powering industry have deep pocket to invest now and rip over a very long period, you may not have such pocket. Reason why solar is ideal for homes is because home is relatively easy to power. Same can not be said for industrial application even on a small scale.

Any solar panel seller in the house located in Abuja? I am looking to upgrade my systems and would prefer to procure my panels here in Abuja. Looking at between 2-3kw panel array.

Chuk77:


Thanks very much for your prompt response. I actually saw some of your previous posts here and they were very helpful and gave a lot of insight prior to me even making my comments.

In your opinion, which of them would be more user friendly? I haven't done this before and while I'm pro DIY, I feel a little bit nervous about it. The only reason I even thought of using the Suoer was because of the display interface and the ease of configuring (based on the view Youtube videos I was able to watch).

Again, I'm not an expert in this field at all, it just looked a little bit easier for a novice like me to set up and get running.

I appreciate your suggestion with regards to getting either Fangusun or Epever. Would you by any chance be able to direct me to a website article or video that shows the basic initial MPPT configuration process in English? This would be very helpful so I can follow after setting up the connections. I tried looking around and most of what I saw was in Hindi.

Thanks again!

On Suoer, I haven't used them before and I can not attest to how good they are. Fangpusun controllers are essentially Victron clones. Epever has some very good rep too. You can reach out to Juo on this forums. He would supply you what you need and you can count on him for good support on setup.

Chuk77:
Gurus in the house, I have a 850va Inverter with x1 220ah Tubular battery. I'm looking to add solar panels to my current system so I can charge with Sunlight as my regular electricity supply has become very unreliable.

After getting numerous quotes (most of them were outrageous!) from a number of sources, I decided to come here to see if I could get more information. I've gone through quite a lot of pages as well as other information on Google and I now think I have a good idea of the set up that would work for me. Just looking to get another opinion.

Initially, I was looking to get x3 Felicity 195watts 12v solar panels (since my battery is just 12v) and hook it up to a Suoer MPPT 60A charge controller.

Having delved a bit deeper, I found out I can actually use solar panels with higher voltage - 24v since the MPPT will still be able to step this down to the right voltage (12v) to charge my battery. From what I read, the higher voltage would reduce the losses associated with the distance between the solar panels and the controller.

Now I'm looking to get x2 300W 24v panels to connect to the same Suoer MPPT 60A charge controller.

In terms of pricing, both set-ups are relatively similar. I'm just hoping to get some advice on whether I should go for the 1st or 2nd set up and if either makes any sense! Also, comments on the choice of MPPT and Panels would be much appreciated as well.

Lastly, a very rough estimate on the accessories - mounting rack, cables, etc would be nice.

Thanks!

The only thing I would change from your setup is the Suor MPPT controller. I would change this for an epever or fangpusun mppt controller. They are much more reliable and have better charge algo compared to Suoer. I would advise you string your 300w panels in Series. This means that you would get about 70v-68v (VMP) depending on the panels. Doing it this way would ensure you.
1- Spend less on wiring, since you would be pushing move volts than amps from your panels to you CC. It would also means less voltage lost to resistance.
2 - Your battery would have more head room required to charge a tubular battery. Such batteries can require as high as 15.5v to be properly charged and you can set the absorption voltage to 14.8.

Both the listed charge controllers should be able to do what you want with the battery especially carry out equalization charge which is required for a tubular battery.

ceaser:
Came across this. I realized that I was empathetic and fearful, not for myself but for those who are not already on alternative green energy sources.

It is going to be a very bumpy ride.

The only challenge that may have some impact for the wider population now is still the use of ICEs as the major mode of transportation. Once BEVs availabilty and affordability come into the mix, na OYO for Dangote and the yèyẹ́ FG.

Years of paying cheap for energy in Nigeria finally coming home to roost. The country can no longer afford it. Those of us who made the tactical foresight of switching to solar and the accompanying life style change that warrants are very lucky. I see the nation gradually adapting to new realities. No more would we see houses with tiny weeny windows. Cross ventilation and natural lights would start being a thing.

Hopefully we would see a more sustainable approach to how we use energy and that is always a good thing.