chidooh1:
I just read from a foreign forum now, the heater will definitely worsen the case, ordinary fan on windshield vent will do but AC is the best.

Tadeknkeepcalm:
Conductor sef dey put mouth for the talk.

Trac:
If you plan to go japanese, avoid the Toyota brands. The physics is poor and roll-over is quite high with the trucks. I did witness one on a Saturday morning and to date, I cannot fathom how this truck rolled over within such short distance and narrow room for excessive body-roll. It turned over to the driver's door. It was also at the line for the red light (traffic light). The road isn't rough.

The ML in its design is superior and except you like trucks, you will be down-grading (the ML is a car and not a truck - the very reason it doesn't drive like one). To answer your question, firstly, I believe you are referring to the 163 chassis. It won the FIA world cup Cross Country Races (toughest rallies in the world) in its reign 4 or 5 years in a row. It was production-based homologation; in other words, the production car was what you took except for some adaptations to match the desert conditions, which were the aggressive tyres and a few other changes. So, the vehicle is rugged and you won't have to worry about straight-line/lane-change stability. Since your model designation is E-Spec, the ignition timing could be dialed back a few degrees to adapt it for the lower octane gasoline. There is a resistor where it could be manually done. I actually don't know where it is because it isn't available on the U.S. market and MB did not begin using the ECU approach or adjusting ignition for lower octane fuels till 2009.

Get your suspension worked on (if the state is questionable) and ditch the OEM dampers for Bilsteins. It's cheaper and you won't have to replace the dampers again despite wild road forces Nigerian roads might demand. It's a good investment.

If you plan to keep the ML for a couple of years, sell the V6 and trade-up the V8. The V6 will cost you more with serious attention and expenses. The V6 is prone to a catastrophic engine failure where the balance shafts rips through the engine. If you are worried about fuel, the rear has been tuned tame acceleration, hence fuel consumption is 1 mile more than the V6 variant.


Happy Benzing!

itsmayiela:
@OP, u shudnt be comparing golf3 with halla. I expected u to compare golf2 with halla. Honda halla is 1990 model while golf 3 is 1993-1997.

Have u ever seen anybody use a halla as commercial taxi? No. It can't endure the ruggedity of constant braking and starting. If u need space in ur car, go for halla. If u need fuel economy, cheap maintenance, ruggedity and high resale value, go for golf3.
I have used both

youngchopper:

My brother sell that crazy car.. Never knew this my post was still getting comments..

I was suprised at the volume/number of Nissans cars I saw on my trip to the US. It is shocking that Nissan as a brand in Nigeria is not adopdted as a reliable car e.g the Nissan Murano etc. It was also shocking to see the Altima on every five mile as I drove, which was by far the most popular. I just wonder why Nigerians don't appreciate Nissan? Why?

Trac:
@ Tweex



Let me say the obvious -- the last person to work on your vehicle did an incomplete job; probably skipped some

caution procedures.  I don't know the approach to which the ball-joint(s) (both ought to have been replaced and at

one labour unit) service was done.  The battery ought to have been removed if any of the ESP family would be

disturbed from its rest.  This is how you ended up with the steering/wheel angle sensor malfunction.  The

malfunction was to be cleared by re-engaging the angle sensor.  The procedures below would re-engage it.

*  Crank the engine with no throttle application
*  Turn the steering wheel to the extreme left till it comes to a complete lock and the same to the extreme right
*  Centre the wheel
*  Switch of the engine. 

This should have been done after the service (if he took the battery out).  Also the ESP & BAS will default to the

malfunction mode.  So, the wheel angle sensor should not have been replaced in the first place and the second. 

This is the most direct from what you have given me that should dissolve the problem but there are other issues

which I will try to feed' you on.



With the MB tool not able to establish a relationship, you need to inspect your harness connector to the ESP.  It is

probably faulty or maybe disconnected.  I am not sure about this but I think the early C Classes of that lineup had

connector issues that were prone to fail.  I don't have a C Class and can't verify that.  If I am incorrect about

this, it is something in this segment.  Also inspect your harness. 

There is also a way to reset the ESP (and it isn't what you do on the instrumental cluster) but I can't see your

engine completely to determine your suspension and your car build (though it seems to me it's a 7.01 and earlier). 

The procedures vary.  You'll also need an MB tool to recode it. 



A mechanic should inspect the following.  These (but not limited to) will trigger an ESP fault.  This is also both

corrected and preventive maintenance.

*  The left front wheel sensor  (Take caution to this since this zone got some recent attention)
*  The right front wheel sensor
*  Left rear wheel sensor
*  Right rear wheel sensor
*  Left front brake pad contact
*  Right front brake pad contact
*  Left rear brake pad contact
*  Right rear brake pad contact
*  Pad and rotor wear for all wheels
*  Left/Right Front/Rear brake calipers

and above all

*  The rear SAM control module (just inspect, they never go bad). 



Also, get the wiring right if anything has been altered.  The steering controls must function.


If all is good, then you have a faulty ESP module. 



There are two numbers I will give to you.  I know this man and he is the first Mercedes purist that I know that is

Nigerian.  From what I understand, he was also trained and worked for the Nigerian army on their convoy vehicles.  I

learnt from him that everything must remain as the engineer put it or you should be working there.  Another thing is

that he doesn't steal and would refund what's excess from part charges.  However, he is a bit pricey than other

mechanics.  Be prepared for genuine OEM parts only because he wouldn't use otherwise.  The numbers are 08034047024

&& 07025625064.  Tell him one of his ExxonMobil clients referred you. 



That goes for every other person Benzing or drives a BMW and some japanese models. 


Whoever you choose, arm yourself with these information. 

Trac:


How do you do?!

The S600 (140) is what made me a genuine Mercedes enthusiast (at the time) and I studied Mercedes and their approach to engineering and standards. Their philosophy fit my personal standards, sadly today they don't stand my their former integrity. I love the post-war Benzes and not too impressed with the contemporary ones.

You have picked two cars with very high attention to engineering detail but two different mannerisms. I am not really into the coupes but if you want to travel S-Class, the 600 is the way to go. The 6L was actually for the S Class. The 5L in my opinion were mostly suited for the E's and were stroked and rearranged for the S models. The 600 is a true keeper and it is also rare to find. It will be with you for many more years. There aren't much cars in this world today with that amount of refinement and quality. Never opt for a '99 S Class if you find one.

You are dealing with a heavy car. This will be the area of concentration we will focus on and I will try my best to list all that I can for you. I will recommend that you do a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) and pay "paranoid" attention to the suspension itself (assuming all other factors are normal). In some cases, you need not be paranoid about the inspection because you'd have drawn your conclusions about it. If unacceptable, deduct as you negotiate or walk away. It's not worth paying premium for something out of shape because you are still going to fix it.

Note: If any of the Merc's have been neglected (maintenance deferred), walk away from it. If it's been flooded, forget it. It affects your wallet and the vehicle will never get any better but worse as time progresses. Those that tell you otherwise lack understanding or have an agenda. Try soaking a system board (circuit board) in water; how do you salvage that?!

Firstly, it's german - in other words, you will have rubbers aging and rottening (breaking off). Though not much mentally, it is a pain replacing every single rubber (mounts, vacuum lines, etc). Rubbers visually might appear good but indeed it is worn out.

The main part: The best approach is to shave off cost from the total price of the vehicle if the suspension is really not at par. Suspension as most of the components that keep the vehicle as intended. This is also age-related and it is not ok to own a Mercedes with bad or worn out suspension components. Shaving off the total cost of the vehicle will help you rebuild your suspension. The V12 is also very nose-heavy and you almost overlook this. This was much of a concern for the S models were originally fitted with V rated tyres and during the course of the vehicle's production, it was later downgraded to H rated compounds to reduced wear rates.

* Engine Mounts
* Springs (you can leave the springs as a priority but the dampers should be replaced and the sway bars for acceptable roll-stiffness. The springs are dampers are isolated and can be done at a later time).
* 4 sets of dampers (shock absorber). Bilstein HD (Heavy Duty) is what you will need. You won't have to replace it again because it is lifetime.
* Strut Mounts
* Subframe mounts - this carries the bulk of the difference between an old Benz or a new one. The difference is extremely clear.
* Upper Control Arms
* Sway bar bushings (get the two outer and the two inner) - vehicle should drive in a straight line without steering input
* Rear End Sway Links
* Trailing Arm Bushings - you will have to replace this. If bad, the rear of the vehicle will begin to steer and it is extremely noticeable at freeway speeds and would require counter-steering to keep yourself in a straight line.
* Ball Joints
* Idler Arms
* Tie Rods
* Steering damper
* Sway Bars

It might appear intimidating but all these would keep the Benz as new as it can be for the age. If all these were taken care of, nobody would sell that Benz at book value.

Both engines are good and as far as I am concerned, no Achilles Heels. The 119 (V8) is my favorite V8 engine and the 156 follows it. Since you are in Lagos, two bottles of Techron is recommended. A full bottle in half a tank or mid-way between a quarter and half a tank. The second bottle should be fed through the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line. From my experience, it is best done when driven for a while and the engine is at operating temperature. I usually use a spray nozzle and squirt and it goes directly through the lines to the throttle body then everywhere else it should be. It sits for 10 minutes or so and start to purge the carbon. It could also be done on a cold or warm engine but the best result that I've gotten is when the engine has been driven for a period and the process is done. This is necessary for the EGR valve from time to time as it gets clogged with carbon over time due to its long and angular orifice.

Both cars are good. I will never take the V8 over a V12.

You've gotten a project if you decide to keep your vehicle according to specs.

In terms of parts, to keep it running as long as possible and predictable, you are best to use Genuine OEM parts. It is understandable to make a compromise on small parts that can be easily replaced but not very wise when you have to do a major repair and questionable unpredictable parts are used. This is because it is expensive and the likelihood of redoing the repair is very high.


Who to recommend to repair? I use to know a person back in the 90's and i haven't spoken to him since then. He is the only Nigerian that I know that worked to specs and was very strict about it. He worked on German cars. I got his number last year but I don't have it anymore. I posted it on one of my posts and I am not sure if I deleted it. His alias is Engr. J and the post is on the Mercedes Thread. The nairalanders might be able to give it to you (if they have it). He is quite expensive but the jobs are thorough and the parts are genuine.



As you already know, looking for a Benz to purchase is half the fun. It isn't easy but that makes it fun.


Happy Benzing!

xerotop:
@ poster. If I hear u well, ur e46 is a 1.8 ltrs 4 cylinder.
Don't attemp to change unless u av peper.its an alluminium block engine, and always very sturborn.
The bigger ones with starght 6 are usually cheaper to buy and maintain.
As for the a/c look for a good electrician and probably scan to detect the problem.u might be suprised its a minor fault

My advise, look for a buyer, sell and buy a sraight 6 engine car.may be a 325i or 330
Afterall. Bmw without a big engine,is like a fighter jet with guns or like a solder in war front without gun.

maccable:
hello house I intend buying a Nissan patfinder can any1 help me with which model from 1999 to 2004 model would I purchase.
ur comment is highly appreciated

Trac:


Basically, what it does is to add an thin enamel layer (polymers) to your already finished paint film. What you see on your car as paint work actually isn't paint but paint-film. This is plastic-bonded. The colour (that is your vehicle's colour) is oil and it can evaporate to some degree leaving it to harden (then break) or oxidise. As of 2007, automotive in paint-coat technology was the use of paint-film. A few years later, I came across a different technology in the bonding of the Camaro. It had something to do with magnets or so (don't quote me on this). This is what differentiates a car when the paint finish is being tested with a tool when you trade-in your car. What the sealants do is to act as protection against the sun and harsh conditions (for instance - high speed driving under hot weather). The hard enamel (acrylic or silicone) takes the brunt instead of actual finish. When you buy a car from the dealership, it is polished and sealed from the production plant. Polish and coating is to be done every year and this detail goes as high as $300+. This is also stated in your owner's manual. If your original vehicle finish is dull, polishing and coating it will not restore its original integrity. You'll have to clay the exterior using a clay compound. This is abrasive but you need a clay compound of very fine "grits" to clay-blast the dull surface off. It's like sand-papering but the purpose is to exfoliate the vehicle's finish in other to favour the brighter and desired colour. After this procedure, polish can be added. Most sealants have polish integrated in them. Apply your sealant and buff.

A point of caution: you do not need to use a clay compound. As a matter of fact, I don't recommend it.
Another point of caution: I will strongly (and I mean strongly) recommend an electric buffer (rotary buffer). It is a very stressful job by hand and may appear perfect but a few days later, about two or three percent imperfections may surface. A few rainfalls and you might loose encouragement. You might stop halfway into the project and it isn't good.

I will recommend a few brands to you.

If you own a Mercedes Benz, the Menzerno Nano is best. This is what MB uses.
Zymol - This is good but might not last 52 washes. You might have to reapply the formulation a few months later.
Zaino - If you find this, I highly recommend this.
3M Products
NuFinish Car Polish - the price is cheap (about $9+) on this, the shine/reflection is on the upper scale. I can't tell you why it is cheap but it is very good. I believe this is a standalone.

With the rotary buffer, you can do it yourself.

pafestula:
Let me ask u this few questions
1. Do u knw Germany cars re experts in technology and innovations than Japaness? E.g 2006 Honda technology is struggling with 2001 C class Benz in everything?
2. Do u knw Germany cars re strongly built? For snows, water etc than Japaness?
3. From your personal confession, when u drove it, what did u feel?
4. Benz 190, regular Benz, V Boot, 911 truck, even Luxurious buses u see around u, if those above car I mentioned were to be Honda, Toyota or Nissan, tell me what is their fates, or how many Honda(s) of same year of the above car is still moving fine like them?
As for me and my family till death, Germany cars ni ooo 4eva, I still much enjoy my C Class 2001, with V6, 6 speed auto gear, balancing, engine, technology, durability etc, and fuel consumption is normal, all u need is to pay more attentions to yr Benz and it wont let u down forever!
Festus...

ayusman16:
Alright sir. Will do that. Thanks

Trac:
Run from the S80 (if you haven't bought it). Reliability! It also shares parts with Ford vehicles. Save yourself the sweat and get something proper.

The S60 is the continuation of the Volvo that everyone has been accustomed to. In other words, completely Swedish. A real Volvo will have 5-Cylinders (as of today). This vehicle also is not sharing parts with Ford. If you are undecided about what year to choose, the 2004 model is the most dependable. If you have no need for the AWD, stay away from it. The haldex does have its own set of issues/

omotoda:


If you stay in lagos, call this guy Seyi - 08023927461.Great guy, a bit costly but knows the job well.He maintained my BMW for 5 years before I sold it in August.