₦airaland Forum

yeah it does a self check plus other lights on the dashboard when u start the car every time..
also y do u call ur car BIG FOOL??!!!!.............just doesnt sound right...be aware of the power of the tongue

MAINTAINANCE REQUIRED LIGHT IS NOT A PROBLEM, NORMALLY IT COMES UP UP AFTER 5K MILES AND NEEDS TO B RESET AFTER AN OIL CHANGE..BUT MOST NAIJA MECHANICS DONT KNOW HOW TO RESET IT...ITS QUITE SIMPLE.

Maintenance Required Light
Turn ignition to 'ACC' and press the odometer button until the display reads actual mileage... not Trip A or B.
Turn ignition off.
Hold in the same button you used in step 1.
While holding the button in, turn ignition to 'ON'.
The 'Maint Reqd' light should blink and go out.
Done!

odyseey has leaking tranny seal problems...sienna is better n more rugged

see what a trailer did to the rugged 4runner!....the driver survived with little scratches..he was trying to reach 4 his cell phone while doing 80mph on the highway...thank goodness he wasnt carrying a passenger....i wonder how it would have ended if it was a smaller car like babyboy or camry?

nope... whats wrong with the original fan?

8k buying n shipping?!...its ok...budget between 250 to 350k for clearing, go 4 an 04/05 model

WHAT MODEL IS THE RAV4....N WHATS WRONG WITH IT?

u cud change ur rings...but unless u reinstall ur thermostat..the thermostat will still reoccur after sometime..................the choice is urs...i wonder y inspite of all we hv been trying to educate folks..they still go ahead n remove their thermostat!!!!!

khalids: Great job boss

Kindly assist in checking the VIN below

4T1BG22K3XU417531

email:yclickii@yahoo.co.uk

Thanks Boss (Sending Your Credit Now) (Visafone),

sorry bro..i have temprorarily suspended the express vin check service...will resume again when demand increases.ur airtime remains unused.
sorry for any inconvenience.

Ikenna351: You have your keyboard or phone to type whatever you want, while i have mine to do the same.

All those decades in Nigeria when our fathers were buying brand new cars with carburettors (no catalytic converters) and running them, shebi it wiped out Nigerian population? Did you even bother to find out when EFI cars with catalytic converters started entering Nigerian shores? So all those decades, Lagosians were not driving cars, which none of them had catalytic converter? Guy, i dont know the part of the world you stay, but i think like a Nigerian.

Why dont you go to that Lagos and count how many cars that dont emit smoke from their exhaust? Every 10 cars that pass, 6 of them, if not more, emit various colours of smoke: blue, black, white, etc. Abi those ones no be pollution? Even with 97% of cars in Lagos with catalytic converter, 70% of them pollute the environment. When 80% of cars on Nigerian roads run very thirsty, where do you think those unburnt fuel goes to? Inside the car or out of the car via the exhuast? You think catalytic converter will filter excessive fueling smoke from going out via the exhaust pipe? .By the way, i found your above post very offensive and direct insult to me. I posted on this thread as Ikenna351, as a Nairaland member, not as a moderator. So, why should you bring in the mod thing here? Next time, if you want to attack my post on a car related issue, address me as Ikenna351 or Ikenna. Ikenna.

too bad u choose to see my comment in that light, my intention wasnt to insult, but to educate, by mod i meant modification, not moderator.
all the same i think you shud keep ur mod to urself and stop broadcasting it 4 people to copy on a public forum.
the process of saving/preserviong the planet is a collective effort, every little effort counts...so if everybody in lagos/nigeria is doing the wrong thing. ..does that justify the wrong doing...and make it right??...would u let ur mechanic remove ur thermostat or use 20w 50 oil grade cos thats what everybody is using?

well most of the cheap oil in nigeria 20w 50, visco 2000, mobil xhp, seahorse etc........n thats what the average nigerian is using to service his car.......i was still part of that group until 18months ago.......now i use mobil 1 0w 40 4k miles/4months change interval......oil is cheap...i rather change my oil too frequently than wreck my motor cos of inadequate oil change....
i know the heart ache i had when i had sludge in my toyota engine.......cos it took a while to eventually clear out all the sludge n stop the oil lamp from coming on intermittently...never wanna go down that route again!

as THE PRESIDENT of FRIENDS OF THE EARTH, NIGERIA BRANCH...I SAY THIS UR MOD IS increasing the emission/pollution level of ur car...pls stop it..the catalytic converter was placed in the car to help cut down on exhaust gas/emissions.........removing is contributing to green house gases n pollution...imagine what wud happen if 30% of all car owners in lagos copied this mod?

I HOPE U R AWARE OF THE NOTORIOUS BRAINBOX/GEAR BOX PROBLEM THAT ALL 01 TO 03 RAV4 eventually hv?...there is a thread on nairaland..serach for it..its best u go for an 04/05 or manual 01/03........L = LIMITED, J = JAPAN....limited is beta than made in japan.

lloyd chris: Hello friends! Actually am still very much confused on which engine size to go for.I am abt to purchase an suv (toyota 4runner? But I don't know whether to go for v6 or v8 cylinder engine.I have been to few dealers to check for the 4runner suv but all they seem to have is v8 engine nd I ask one of the dealer why v8 engine is what is more available for toyota 4runner nd he told me that 4runner is better nd stronger with v8 engine.
I need advice whether to purchase the v6 or v8 for toyota 4runner please

i guess by now..u wud hv bought, but if not
both are reliable engines with their strenghts n weakness
the v6 normally has head gasket issues, n the v8 has exhaust manifold issues...both cars have brake caliper problems..ie the pistons get stuck and wear out the pads.
fuel wise..v6 is slightly better, has optional 4wd system, unlike v8 with full time 4wd

..i hv an 05 v6 model...

oil shortage n fuel pump aint related.....unless he said oil pump..n u didnt hear well...blu e smoke..= ur rings being bad...causes are plenty but the most common ios caused by removing the thermostat..thus ur engine isnt heating to optimum temp, n engine lubrication gets poor as oil not being heated properly doesnt flow very well

well u n i hv our points..it appears bmw n peugoet engines are built with better designs as most bmw engines hv 10000 - 20000 mile oil change interval, but i had a toyota car that i let the conventional oil stay in the car for 3months plus...[was away for 1month out of the 3months]...n when i went to change the oil..i had sludge...thick gooey stuff coming out, and the oil was discoloured, n rust brown in colour..[mobil xhp 20w 50], since then i never let my oil stay that long n i later switched to synthetic[mobil 1] n it stays 4months no issue.

also the link u posted below still surpports my theory.

3. When to Use What
As we know, conventional motor oil that is derived from crude oil has an uneven molecular structure. This makes it suitable for new engines. The internal surfaces of the new engine, though shaped and forged very beautifully are not hundred percent accurate. Due to this, the inner surface of the piston block and the surface of the piston itself becomes extremely accurate, as the excess and inaccurate points (which are technically known faults) on the surfaces get shredded off as a result of the friction and heat. The uneven molecules aid this evening out of the auto components. There are, however, two drawbacks of this type of oil. The first drawback is that the regular oil gets oxidized at a very high temperature, which results into creation of pollutants. In same way, at very low temperatures, formation of sludge occurs which renders the oil, useless.

The synthetic oil, on the other hand, does not have any type of drawback, when it comes to extreme temperatures and air pollution. This type of oil is gives very good results, when it is used for car engines that are a few years old. The synthetic oil is extremely instrumental, when it comes to preservation of the engine components and ensures excellent running of the engine. The only drawback is that the synthetic oil, in present day market, is rather costly.
Read more at Buzzle: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/synthetic-oil-vs-regular-oil.html

is ur car shifting erratically or hVING gear troubles?..before u shell out ur hard earned dough...consider the parts below..they are part of the transmiison



Control Modules (Electrical): Engine (ECM) / Powertrain (PCM), Body (BCM), Automatic Transmission (TCM), and/or other control modules (some new vehicles have more than ten) use input from sensors such as those below to control shift timing and shift feel. When the responsible control module stops working, the transmission may stop shifting, shift harsh or soft, or catastrophically fail.

Mass Airflow Sensor (Emission), Throttle Position Sensor (Fuel/Air), and Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (Fuel/Air): The Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) measures the mass flow-rate of air entering the engine. The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) measures the position of the throttle (gas pedal). The Manifold Pressure Sensor (MAP) measures pressure in the intake manifold. Data from all three sensors can be used to determine engine load. A failed MAF, TPS or MAP can cause late-harsh shifts, early-soft shifts, or the transmission may stop shifting completely.

Air Temperature Sensor (Emission): The temperature of the air entering the engine intake is used to adjust the fuel/air mixture and transmission fluid pressure. A failed intake Air Temperature Sensor may cause the transmission to shift harder than normal.

Air Conditioner Relay (Electrical-Switch & Relay): The Air Conditioner Relay/Sensor indicates when the AC is on or off. This is used to adjust engine speed (RPM). A failed AC Relay may cause engine lugging or other driveability problems that may seem transmission related.

Temperature Sender / Sensor (Cooling System and Transmission-Automatic): The Coolant Temperature Sensor and/or Transmission Oil Temperature Sensor prevents the converter clutch from putting the transmission into overdrive when the engine and transmission are too cold. On some cars, other gears may also be inhibited. These sensors are likely to become even more important as more gears are added to new cars with higher fuel economy requirements. Without correct temperature data there may be late shifts, starting off in the wrong gear, and/or no overdrive gear.

Turbine Speed Sensor (Electrical): This Speed Sensor mounted on the transmission measures input shaft speed and its data indicates if the transmission is slipping. Shift timing and shift feel problems typically occur if the Turbine Shaft Speed Sensor fails.

Vehicle Speed Sensor or Differential Speed Sensor (Electrical): The speed sensor mounted on the transmission or differential measures vehicle speed. Without input from this sensor, the transmission may stop shifting or shift late and harsh. The converter clutch may be inhibited and the transmission will not go into overdrive.

Transmission Range Sensor / Neutral Safety Switch (Electrical-Switch & Relay): This sensor indicates the position of the gear shifter. It determines which gears are enabled or disabled. When this sensor fails, the transmission may start out in the wrong gear, fail to up shift, or seem to fall out of gear.

Overdrive Button (Transmission-Automatic): This dash, console, or shifter-mounted switch on some vehicles lets the driver disable overdrive. If the switch fails then the transmission will not go into overdrive or the driver will be unable to disable overdrive.

Brake Light Switch (Electrical Switch & Relay): The Brake Light Switch may also generate brake pedal position signals that are used to release the converter clutch when the vehicle is braking. When the Brake Switch fails, the converter clutch may not activate or deactivate properly. The vehicle may shudder while coming to a stop because the transmission is still in a too high of a gear.

keep the requests coming

ru sure the oil 10w 40 is mineral and not synthetic?..pls am really interested in knowing the name/brand of this oil......cos its usually synthetic oils that have that pour range

pls give us the name..am interested in buying such oil..as the 20w 50 oil is not the recommended oil for my car, the 10w 40 is nearer...but i only find synthetics in the 10w 40 range

not all toyotas are prone to sludge.
causes of sludge are
1. not changing ur oil when due.........if u r using normal oil ie 20w 50...visco 2000, mobil xhp, etc, its recommened u change it every 1500 to 2000 miles or 30 to 45 days wchever comes first...mileage or days.dino oil as its normally called degenaratyes over time...so even if the car was driven less than 50miles and was parked for 1 month after being driven...the oil is halfway bad already...its recommened u change it soon, this is cos the make up of the oil is affected by heat,

2. cars that are driven less than 40miles per day, day in day out, are also prone to sludge as since dino oil contains traces of water...when its driven for short distances, the the engine doesnt heat up enough to evaporate the water, thus it ends up remaining in the system.....imagine pouring small amt of water into red oil or gnut oil...that will give u an idea of the state of the oil in ur car..if u do only short distances....

synthtic oil 0w 40, 10w 30 etc..such as mobil 1 , total 7000 etc...are more expensive but are better in not forming sludge in the engine...the r rated for 5000 to 7000 miles and 4 to 6months duration...thus they are better, if u r the type that dont like changing ur oil regularly

doubleroti: Hi There,

Could you kindly help run this VIN Check.

4T1BE46K07U055296

pasted FOC...am in a good mood today.

AutoCheck Vehicle History Report
2007 Toyota Camry CE / LE / SE / XLE
Report Run Date: 2013-03-22 05:35:38.376 EDT
Report Summary


Class: Mid Range Car - Standard
Engine: 2.4L I4 SFI
Country of Assembly: United States
Vehicle Age: 6 year(s)
Calculated Owners: 1
VIN: 4T1BE46K07U055296
Year : 2007
Make : Toyota
Model: Camry CE / LE / SE / XLE
Style/Body: Sedan 4D
This Vehicle's AutoCheck Score




The AutoCheck Score is a summary of your vehicle's history. It lets you compare similar vehicles with ease.
About the AutoCheck Score
This vehicle qualifies for Buyback Protection


Safeguard your investment with AutoCheck Buyback Protection. It reduces the risk in buying a used vehicle.
About Buyback Protection

AccidentCheck
Reported accidents: 0

Title and ProblemCheck
Your vehicle checks out!

OdometerCheck
Your vehicle checks out!
Last Reported Odometer: 118,207

Vehicle Use and EventCheck
Specific vehicle use(s) or events reported
View Full History

AccidentCheck
Not all accidents / issues are reported to AutoCheck

Your vehicle checks out! There have been no accidents reported to AutoCheck for this 2007 Toyota Camry CE / LE / SE / XLE (4T1BE46K07U055296). AutoCheck receives its accident data from government sources and independent agencies, and based on the information available to us, we have found that no accidents have been reported on this vehicle. Not all accidents or damage events are reported to AutoCheck.


Title and ProblemCheck
Your vehicle checks out! AutoCheck's database for this 2007 Toyota Camry CE / LE / SE / XLE (4T1BE46K07U055296) shows no negative titles or other problems. When reported to AutoCheck, these events can indicate serious past damage or other significant problems, and disqualifies the vehicle for AutoCheck Buyback Protection. Check the Vehicle Use and EventCheck for reported accidents that can affect vehicle safety and value.

0 Problem(s) Reported: 15 Title/Problem areas checked:
No abandoned title record
No damaged title or major damage incident record
No fire damaged title record
No grey market title record
No hail damage title record
No insurance loss title or probable total loss record
No junk or scrapped title record
No manufacturer buyback/lemon title record
No odometer problem title record
No rebuilt/rebuildable title record
No salvage title or salvage auction record
No water damaged title record
No NHTSA crash test record
No frame/unibody damage record
No recycling facility record

OdometerCheck
Your vehicle checks out! AutoCheck examined the reported odometer readings reported to AutoCheck for this 2007 Toyota Camry CE / LE / SE / XLE (4T1BE46K07U055296) and no indication of an odometer rollback or tampering was found. AutoCheck uses business rules to determine if reported odometer readings are significantly less than previously reported values. Not all reported odometer readings are used. Title and auction events also report odometer tampering or breakage.

0 Problem(s) Reported: Mileage Date Reported
6 08/10/2006
7,918 02/27/2007
7,918 04/05/2007
36,147 02/15/2008
66,396 02/26/2009
100,541 06/10/2010
118,207 03/31/2011
118,207 04/18/2011

Vehicle Use and EventCheck
Information Reported! AutoCheck shows additional vehicle uses or events reported to AutoCheck for this 2007 Toyota Camry CE / LE / SE / XLE (4T1BE46K07U055296). This includes reported vehicle uses such as rental or lease, and events such as whether the vehicle has been reported to have had a loan/lien or duplicate title issued. Other events show if the vehicle has a reported accident and how many calculated accidents or if it has been reported stolen or repossessed. It is recommended to have pre-owned vehicles inspected by a third party prior to purchase.

1 Event(s) Reported: 6 Vehicle uses checked:
Fleet, rental and/or lease use record(s)
No taxi use record
No police use record
No government use record
No livery use record
No driver education record
2 Event(s) Reported: 9 Vehicle events checked:
No accident record reported through accident data sources
No corrected title record
No duplicate title record
Emission/safety inspection record(s)
Loan/Lien record(s)
No fire damage incident record
No repossessed record
No theft record
No storm area registration/title record
Full History
Below are the historical events for this vehicle listed in chronological order. Any discrepancies will be in bold text.

Report Run Date: 2013-03-22 05:35:38.376 EDT

Vehicle: 2007 Toyota Camry CE / LE / SE / XLE (4T1BE46K07U055296)

Event Date Event Location Odometer Reading Data Source Event Detail
05/25/2006 HIGH POINT, NC

Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL
07/27/2006 NC

Independent Source VEHICLE MANUFACTURED AND SHIPPED TO DEALER
08/10/2006 NORTH WILKESBORO, NC
6
Motor Vehicle Dept. TITLE (Title #:771375062229038) (Lien Reported)
REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL
02/27/2007 NORTH WILKESBORO, NC
7,918
Independent Emission Source PASSED EMISSION INSPECTION
04/05/2007 HIGH POINT, NC
7,918
Motor Vehicle Dept. TITLE (Title #:776711070950038) (Lien Reported)
06/18/2007 HIGH POINT, NC

Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL
02/15/2008 WINSTON SALEM, NC
36,147
Independent Emission Source PASSED EMISSION INSPECTION
04/25/2008 HIGH POINT, NC

Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL
02/26/2009 WINSTON SALEM, NC
66,396
Independent Emission Source PASSED EMISSION INSPECTION
06/11/2009 HIGH POINT, NC

Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL
06/10/2010 HIGH POINT, NC
100,541
Independent Emission Source PASSED EMISSION INSPECTION
06/11/2010 HIGH POINT, NC

Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL
03/31/2011 SOUTHEASTERN REGION
118,207
Auto Auction REPORTED AT AUTO AUCTION
04/18/2011 SOUTHEASTERN REGION
118,207
Auto Auction AUCTION ANNOUNCED AS FLEET/LEASE
05/24/2011 JACKSONVILLE, FL

Independent Source VEHICLE EXPORTED TO BENIN

2 more days to go....keep the requests coming

keep the requests coming

online now

keep the requests coming!

online now

pls pls pls..stop using that visco 2000, my mechanic almost ruined my car...back then he wanted to use visco 2000, when i asked him...his answer was NA SO WE DEY AM, if not that am educated and enlightened..i wud hv allowed him...i stood my ground and insisted on using toyota atf.
pls note: transmission fluid is recommended to be changed every 30k to 50k miles...though some car manufactureres claim theirs are lifetime fluids..i dont believe it.

so ur changing ur transmission fluid 2 times a yr is simply outragoeus..unless u r in the transport biz...there is no way u wud be doing upto 40k miles in 1yr..2yrs or even 3yrs...

online now, keep the requests coming

hope u are changing the fluid with correct honda atf fluid?

online now

keep the requests coming

well its radiator not LARGERATOR!!!!!!!
welllas a chemistry student....salt n sugar reduce the boiling point of water///thus the water in the radiator might be able to hit 130degrees before boilong as against the normal 100 degrees boiling temp.

a good coolant is designed to do this same thing more efficienty!....my friend stop adding sugar to ur radiator....flush the radiator thoroughly and replace with good coolant...n not ordinary water!......jeeeez