₦airaland Forum

Olumighty06:
Please house is it advisable to buy a naija used ml430,1999,145kmiles[b] with 'little'(on quote) electrical issue[[/b]

What electrical issues exactly? Have they deleted the thermostat? Does the AC work or it needs gas?, is the OBD2 port functional? Are the SAMs in good condition or they need additional fuses and relays? Personally speaking mileage is inconsequential, that engine and transmission will go through hell and back for you, but the suspension parts are most likely worn out due to our excellent road conditions. All the same, if the price is right, buy it.

arixreal:
Man if am wrong u have the right to correct me that Is what we open this group
We are here to help each others

No bro, i seriously wish you well. The only persons who can advise you further are those already in the business. But I suspect you'll have to raise that car to allow it carry more load and also reduce your visits to the mechanic for suspension related issues.

arixreal:
Actually the car is in top condition with about 167k kilometers on the dashboard with manual transmission . The car has not been raised nor double spring . It is Lagos-Ibadan is the route or the car which everybody know the road is better now

No worries chief, all the best with your endeavour

arixreal:
normally it will be 2 drivers that will do the job and the car will be servicing very 7000miles with mobile 1 USA
That should be every 18 days

Well, factor in down time. There's no way that car won't breakdown one way or another. Also what's the current state of the car.? Engine, transmission and suspension (have you raised or doubled the springs, to comply with Nigerian roads standards)

thebigkendo:
You this finance man wetin you dey go find for plant?

Chief, e don tey o. Na those Uni days, wer boys dey hustle for internship opportunities. How the go dey go for your side?

thebigkendo:
Safety wise.. Does tiles + mobil 1 or ATF or PS fluid = Accident or near miss..
Even though I noticed some of the tiles are broken, the broken tiles will reduce slip but if the slip occurs, the broken tiles can actually cut..
Grooved concrete will reduce slip hazard .
Grooved concrete will also not crack/break when a chain or wire string fails & engine block falls from the hydraulic hoist

Yeah, I remember the safety boots and hats very well. You're not allowed into the plant if your goggles, reflectors, hats and boots are not properly worn.

timifakay:
Automobile workshops are prone to oil and fluid spills. Grooved concrete is hard to clean...
Therefore smooth floor is more desirable and safer in a workshop like this as staff and personnel PPE provide needed grip on smooth dry surface. Emphasis on dry, it's more important than surface texture here.

Understood . Construction has never been my forte and never will

timifakay:
Please quote source.

Morning chief, interned at UNICEM (now Lafarge), some years back and for a fact, I know this was mentioned in the orientation walk through and video. Sorry, can't place source

timifakay:
Why do you say grooved concrete floor is safer sir?

Basic safety protocols in places involving the use of light or heavy machinery

123stanli:
Come and buy your cars ohh... My cars are alive and working.. Cheap too..
IG :@nordadeals

No Time!!

This bros, you think say na all of us The God of Joseph Ayo babalola give car resurrection memos?

rationalmind:
Nice one Eddee,

DIY can have it's ups and downs, sometimes you do and it works, other times you get your troubleshooting wrong and it doesn't. This can come at a great cost to the pocket especially if your village people remember you and you make a mistake that leads to further damage.

Was really impressed and motivated by your post and now I remember my R/F & R/R TPMS sensor needs to be replaced

You na area fada for this side.
I scanned today and got misfires in cylinder 4 and 5 today. There was an artificial fuel scarcity in Calabar for almost 5 days caused by a leadership tussle according to the stories I heard. I got some fuel in a filling station at the outskirts of town, and since then I've been getting mild misfires in the morning. Once i turn off the ignition and start again, everything clears. So, I might play around the plugs and ignition coils next weekend if everything doesn't clear up after topping additional yesterday.

Chelseafan1:
Lol, bad guy....nice one bro.

Big bros, this one was easy, what could possibly go wrong? Wait until next weekend when boys try to clean or replace 4 spark plugs in cylinder 4 and 5 and maybe replace ignition coils or possibly be cleaning injector nozzles. (potential plenty for numerous f*ck-ups. Make I reach office tomorrow, I go use them WiFi download plenty tutorial first, just in case.

syntax50:
Baba Eddee; tuale 4you... Bigups on ur successfull DIY feat.
A quick one tho do you feel it a necessity to purchase/own an mb star scanner and do you have any idea how much it may cost ??

My brother, the scanner is very expensive and it's not a one off purchase either, there's a subscription service attached to it. And I don't possess the technical know how to use one effectively and efficiently assuming I decided to spend that much. Besides, Nigerians won't pay dealership level fees for vehicle diagnosis. So, in the end it's an exercise in futility unless of course you decide to own it for personal and not pecuniary gains.

weyreypey:
I meant the Forte oil

Okay, dunno - but on my next fuel top up, I'll use their station so i can make enquiries or preferably grab a photo while at it.

kingreign:
My brother man, I tuale for you. How that side na?

We thank God. Took it for a scan, cylinder 4 is misfiring. E be like another DIY dey works next weekend (if e never repair itself, suspecting it's bad fuel I bought earlier).

kingreign:
Ehehdhshehehe @Eddee, you're now climbing up the DIY ladder. Nice one brother man.

Boss, I greet you sir

weyreypey:
Is it full synthetic oil?

5w30 is full synthetic

weyreypey:
Which one have you been using?

Mobil 1, but my old boy uses Forte Oil's Visco 2000 on a w221- (doesn't drive around much though and replaces every 3,000 km or 3 months.

weyreypey:
Try MRS full synthetic oil

Heard great things about Visco 2000 by Forte Oil. My Merc is nearing 371k on the odometer. Mobil 1 5w30 extended performance, is the oil of choice, but I just might jazz things up a bit

weyreypey:
Serviced mine using MRS OIL full synthetic 5W40 emulating nurey and using an fleece oil filter

This was after 10,900km usage. I previously serviced it in January 2019

Mine will be due in a month's time or 1900 kms, whichever comes first. I'm suspecting the latter will come first.

Went inside, feeling so happy and content that I had just made some quick wins. The same scenario with the remote played out again the next morning, only this time the metallic key did its job and opened the doors and trunk, so i checked and the malfunctions were still present, it dawned on me that I, needed a main and an auxiliary battery that morning. I checked my disposable income and it was enough to procure only the main 100 amp battery. I did that and my malfunctions disappeared. Two weeks ago "Battery Protection Conven.Functions Temporarily turned off or something like that." popped up out of the blues, and it will occasionally help me turn of my radio or shutdown daytime running lights. Ran a quick scan, and you guessed right, the auxiliary battery wasn't pulling its weight in volts anymore. Called my plug @Bedwell and he was quoting 14k for a backup battery, called Lagos 12k without shipping, spoke to my oga and he gave me the key. I proceeded to Bedwell, parked very far from the spare parts shops and asked them for a 12v12ah/10 hr motorcycle battery. The guy looked at me suspiciously when he asked me what I needed it for, I said generator. We settled for a brand new one @ 4k.


To find out how I got to the next paragraph, click here
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W211/71-BASICS-Auxiliary_Battery_Replacement/71-BASICS-Auxiliary_Battery_Replacement.htm

I then asked him to bring the ones for a Mercedes-Benz - brethren you know the rest. (same batteries only variation, was battery terminal diameter was a 10 for the batteries meant for a car and 8's were meant for a Bike/Generator).

My kazeem instincts kicked in immediately, i grabbed my Swiss Army knife, pushed it into the 8 diameter, screwed clockwise, then counter-clockwise and children of God, we had a 10. Installation is as straightforward as replacing the main battery. All tools, except my phone's Internet connection I used for this 25 mins job were borrowed from our Perkins generator, including the multimeter.

All malfunction errors, except the ever present SRS are gone.

I woke up very happy, so I'll share the easiest DIY, littered with as much humor as possible.

Sometime last month or early this month, I was away for 3 days, on my return - you can imagine the initial panic when I casually pressed the unlock button on the remote and the car's security lights didn't blink. I, immediately concluded the Key's Panasonic batteries had died, and proceeded to grab one or two bottles in a joint across before proceeding to bedwell. After the 2nd bottle, I gained clarity of purpose - and pushed the buttons and realised the light on the remote was blinking. That is when it dawned on me that my car's battery was the culprit... The metal key chooses days to open the doors and trunk, (this day was one day it refused to work), so as a lazy Nigerian youth, I called Kingreign - and narrated my small challenge to him. He advised on getting a panel beater, the moment the panel beater opened the car's door illegally, the car's alarm used up precious juice it should have given me earlier, to scream until it faded.

My main battery is in the trunk, i couldn't access it, because the metal key still refused to do it's manual job and there was no power to open it automatically. Quickly ran a Google search, (YouTube to the rescue, found a concise video watched it 3 times, just to be sure I won't fry up the car's internals). So, I opened the bonnet, grabbed a battery from one of the trucks in the house and ran a wire to the Positive terminal on the front SAM and simultaneously depressed the trunk release key and felt like Gazzuzz immediately.

The rest is fairly simple, put in the charged battery, start the car, put in the discharged battery and drive aimlessly around while the alternator does it's job. Immediately car came up, I was greeted with a very beautiful battery icon on red, with a follow up message auxiliary battery malfunction - visit workshop.

Used the on-board computer in the car to measure battery charge and realised that the alternator was working as it should (after about 4kms of driving it was reading 14.0-14.1v — according to Google, this was perfectly normal. Returned home, parked and switched off the engine and immediately confirmed the battery voltage - it had dropped to 12.7v (again perfectly normal for a stationery car).

Buynowautos:
Yes oh One rewire guy don Bobo me say make I bring 20k to fix am

Chelseafan1:
Wtf!!!! 20k for wetin !

Why una dey raise voice for hia?? By tomorrow morning, if I confirm that my DIY has achieved its result. I go open offline office sharp sharp

Chelseafan1:
Lol, I feel so sorry for the owner of that Honda, na wetin make my brother go sell hin Baby boy b ds......na God save hin with my mumcee one day wey the thing pull on the highway, car enter anoda lane.

Thank God say no be all those Bovas tankers dey beside dem when the thing pull out, na only me fit remain for this life

Tufiakwa

rationalmind:


Having to experience that leg pull is my worst nightmare

The day I heard one kra kra sound while I was making a turn, na straight to mechanic o