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 Car Talk / Re: Why Car Makers Should not succeed at Outlawing DIY! (Car Hacked)!! by IdaraCHODB(m): 3:10pm On Jul 22, 2015 |
Thread updated with new information, read the first post again! |
| Car Talk / Tesla Eats Into Ferrari And Lamborghini Territory! by IdaraCHODB(m): 11:14pm On Jul 18, 2015 |
I hate electric cars, but Tesla is making me have a rethink. Here is why! Ludicrous Mode on the high-powered P85D all-electric sedan As far as Nigeria is concerned, electric cars are almost a dream. If you want to merge onto the highway from a dead stop in less than three seconds, you no longer have to buy a Ferrari or a Lamborghini. Tesla will now offer a "Ludicrous Mode" on its high-powered P85D all-electric sedan. That car already offers an "Insane Mode" that allows it to blast from zero to 60 miles/hour in just 3.2 seconds. With the "Ludicrous Mode," the new Tesla Model S P90D will get to 60 in just 2.8 seconds. This latest improvement is something Tesla is offering simply because it's possible, Musk said, not because there was customer demand for more speed. "Nobody was asking for 'Ludicrous Mode' because it was too ludicrous," Musk said during a conference call. The Insane Mode had already put Tesla's seven-seat sedan in a league with high-end two-seat sports cars, known for extreme acceleration. Tesla limits the car's top speed to 155 miles an hour. To enable the extra speed, Tesla (TSLA) made engineering improvements to the car's electronics. These changes allow power to be drawn out of the car's battery pack more quickly, making for faster acceleration. Source: http://money.cnn.com/2015/07/17/autos/tesla-ludicrous-mode/index.html?section=money_news_international |
| Car Talk / Re: Automatic Gearbox Problems by IdaraCHODB(m): 9:20am On Jul 18, 2015 |
Consortium: Your solution may be found here: http://acurazine.com/forums/second-generation-tl-1999-2003-98/ (search for transmission issues and recommended fixes) and here http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Racing-Automatic-Transmission/product-reviews/B000T9TM8S/ref=cm_cr_pr_btm_link_2?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=recent&reviewerType=all_reviews&formatType=all_formats&filterByStar=all_stars&pageNumber=2 (carefully read all the comments and feedback on comments) Spoiler alert: May involve mixing Honda branded ATF with Redline Racing ATF! Even better solution: http://acurazine.com/forums/second-generation-tl-1999-2003-98/transmission-issue-932361/ |
| Car Talk / Re: After Using Total 20w50 For 6 Years, Is There Any Effect If I Want To Change To by IdaraCHODB(m): 1:52am On Jul 18, 2015 |
Macmilla: I totally second the above. I inspect all fluids levels every morning, I also inspect the car from up and from the bottom every now and then, I am my first and foremost mechanic. There is so much you can observe that no mechanic will ever observe! 1 Like |
| Car Talk / Re: Automatic Gearbox Problems by IdaraCHODB(m): 12:42am On Jul 18, 2015 |
CHIMCO: Seahorse ATF on a Benz? one of the worst brands as far as I can tell. I stand to be corrected |
| Car Talk / Re: Automatic Gearbox Problems by IdaraCHODB(m): 12:37am On Jul 18, 2015 |
ping2ping: 2000 -2001 solid as a rock. 2002 - 2006 not as solid, prone to issues You can confirm by doing some research at mpvclub.com |
| Car Talk / Re: Automatic Gearbox Problems by IdaraCHODB(m): 12:33am On Jul 18, 2015 |
Consortium: Your transmission is a known problem transmission. Excerpt from http://www.carcomplaints.com/Acura/TL/1999/transmission/: CarComplaints.com Notes: The 1999-2003 Acura TL has a known & widespread defect with the transmission. Honda fixed some vehicles with a recall in 2004 by changing the oil cooler return line. To settle a class action lawsuit in 2006, Honda extended the transmission warranty on some of these Acura TL's to 93 months / 109,000 miles. Now these vehicles are past the warranty limit, so buyer beware. http://repairpal.com/automatic-transmission-issues-515 |
| Car Talk / Air-free Tires That Cannot Run Flat From Hankook by IdaraCHODB(m): 9:20pm On Jul 17, 2015 |
For as far as automotive technology has advanced in just the past decade alone, the frustration of dealing with a flat tire remains a problem that affects everyone. So while we now have cars that can switch lanes and parallel park all by themselves, we still haven’t stumbled upon a solution to eliminate flat tires. Coming to the rescue is Hankook Tire, a company which already manufactures tires both for day-to-day driving and performance vehicles. While traditional tires are simply comprised of rubber and air, Hankook, a company based out of South Korea, has been busy testing a new prototype tire dubbed iFlex that doesn’t require any air at all, thus eliminating the threat of getting a flat altogether. Wired reports: Now, Hankook has completed initial testing on its fifth-generation airless tire, dubbed the iFlex. The tires do not require any air pressure, instead relying on a new type of eco-friendly material (the company demurs when asked for details). Geometric shapes built into the material provide the bounce and springiness normally provided by air pressure. But, unlike the previous iFlex, this version’s designed to mount onto a traditional rim, making it compatible with current vehicles. In a variety of performance tests conducted at speeds up to 80 mph, Hankook said that its iFlex tires perform just as well as conventional tires. While Hankook hasn’t yet provided a roadmap detailing when their tires might hit the market, it’s certainly something to keep an eye on in the coming years Hankook’s full press release follows below: Hankook Tire’s Future-oriented Tire Succeeds High-speed Driving without Air Pressure • Hankook Tire aims to create future driving experiences through proven technology leadership propelled by continuous R&  investmentsJuly 13, 2015 (Seoul, Korea) – Hankook Tire announced that it had successfully completed its ride and handling tests for its latest non-pneumatic tire (NPT) Hankook iFlex, which is made using eco-friendly materials. The iFlex is the latest example of Hankook Tire’s continued technology leadership. The company’s ability to push the boundaries of driving capabilities is a direct result of its robust foundation in R& as well as the following world-class technological prowess.As the name suggests, NPTs do not require air pressure. Hankook Tire has continued researching on the new tire technologies particularly for NPT since 2011. Crucially, the company has been working toward the development of NPTs that achieve all of the practical benefits of conventional air pressure tires while simultaneously enhancing their high speed tire characteristics. The iFlex, which is the fifth NPT concept tire that Hankook Tire has released, is the culmination of that effort. The company put the iFlex through a serious of rigorous tests designed to push the tires to their limits in five categories: durability, hardness, stability, slalom (zigzag) and speed. In the speed test, the electric car equipped with iFlex tires reached 130km/h. The impressive results in all five categories demonstrated that the NPTs could match conventional tires in terms of performance. At the same time, these results are expected to help the company solidify its position as a global top-tier tire company and, give new momentum to its future-oriented R& capabilities.Construction of the iFlex is centered on a new type of uni-material designed to maximize the tire’s eco-friendly potential. From a manufacturing standpoint, the material used during product construction significantly enhances the energy efficiency. From a product standpoint, the material allows the iFlex to be recycled with greater ease. Hankook Tire then went one step further, integrating new tire construction techniques to simplify the manufacturing process from eight stages to just four, thus further reducing the company’s carbon footprint. “The Hankook iFlex’s ability to deliver the perfect high-speed driving performance is the result of Hankook Tire’s longstanding commitment to independently developing progressive, innovative tire technology. Aiming to strengthen our technological leadership in the global tire market, we will continue to develop cutting edge eco-friendly and future-oriented tires” says Mr. Seung-Hwa Suh, Vice Chairman and CEO of Hankook Tire. Hankook Tire currently has a number of projects underway that are centered on developing future-oriented tire products. For example, ‘The Next Driving Lab,’ a brand campaign that was initiated in 2013, is operated primarily to let talented engineers and designers bring to life their wildest futuristic dreams for innovative driving experiences. Likewise, Hankook Tire collaborates every two years with world-renowned design schools to host the ‘Design Innovation’ project. This project allows students to propose and study future tire concepts designed at generating safer, more reliable, and more advanced tire performances. This article was originally published on BGR.com SOURCE: https://www.yahoo.com/tech/s/company-develops-air-free-car-tires-never-flat-123025281.html Side Comment: The most recent Mercedes Benz S-Class comes factory fitted with Hankook tires (not the air-free of course)! |
| Car Talk / Is Your Mechanic Cheating? by IdaraCHODB(m): 7:54am On Jul 16, 2015 |
Jiffy Lube Scam Caught on Tape! If you’re one of the many Americans that need a little bit of help working on your car, you might feel a bit overwhelmed when picking the right mechanic and you’re not alone. This undercover investigation shows you exactly why such a feeling is completely warranted. To be honest, the results of the investigation are nothing less than horrifying. We watch the footage as a series of cars are marked to see if parts, including oil filters, are replaced and hidden cameras aid in the investigation as well. The results of the scam are quite surprising. Check out the video below that exposes the shops in a whole slew of unethical behavior as captured at multiple shops through multiple newscasts. What do you think of this shady behavior? Video 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiCAJ8ULnaI Video 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pf6KY6rrqYU Original Source: http://speedsociety.com/jiffy-lube-scam-caught-on-tape/ Comment: It happened in the U.S but does it also happen here? Share your story! |
| Car Talk / Re: Fastest Speed You Have Ever Driven: Car, Place, Time? by IdaraCHODB(m): 8:04pm On Jul 12, 2015 |
i don't exactly agree that there are no roads in Nigeria that one can do 160 or 180 or 200 for a couple of minutes, up to say 3 or 5 or 7 or 10. But given my experience, I am not certain roads exist which permit it to be done for more than 10 minutes at a stretch. I am not willing to say if I have done it or not, but I know such roads exist in this country. Now speaking of the Range Rover, I have observed (I did not say I drove) a lesser vehicle reaching about 160 km/hr first then after a few seconds a Range Rover levels up and then passes it, and it wasn't until the Range Rover's driver miscalculated (by getting himself boxed in the wrong lane and being held up by a pile of cars with no room to overtake), that the other vehicle whose driver choose a different lane leveled up with the Range and then disappeared. Because the Range did overtake him but failed to scan for traffic ahead far enough and make appropriate adjustments, while the other car's driver did. I don't know how the story ended but I did observe, so that part of the story is indeed feasible. Please check your entire suspension about the waving thing, I have had a similar experience twice : (1) when i went into a pothole and it destroyed the left front shock absorber mount housing, causing the car to make sudden movements not occasioned by steering input like it had a mind of its own, causing me to slow down more than I would have loved to; (2) on another occasion the bolt holding the ball joint got worn and it did the same thing. It is suicide to drive very fast with a faulty suspension not to talk of bad tires or fluids not at appropriate levels. 10 common high performance driving errors: http://motorsports.sae.org/articles/guest/10hperrors.htm The Range in the scenario above failed with points 2 and 3 |
| Car Talk / Re: Running A Straight Pipe On My Corolla S by IdaraCHODB(m): 11:41pm On Jul 09, 2015 |
swaggerkid: Have you done your homework? |
| Car Talk / Re: Let's Talk Nissan Altima 2002 by IdaraCHODB(m): 11:30pm On Jul 09, 2015 |
jonnywaka: I don't like engine washes. Go on a long drive minimum of 100 kilometres, and hopefully, the water that went where it should not might dry up. Get an alldatadiy subscription for this vehicle to reduce the guesswork you have to do. It does not cost an arm and a leg. 1 Like |
| Car Talk / Re: Honda Inspire 2009 Conversion by IdaraCHODB(m): 11:25pm On Jul 09, 2015 |
The conversion had better be done there! Seems the motor police ( am sure you know what I mean) is going to show a greater interest in RHDs than before if the article I read somewhere is anything to go by. Better quality conversion if done there! |
| Car Talk / Re: Running A Straight Pipe On My Corolla S by IdaraCHODB(m): 11:16pm On Jul 09, 2015 |
swaggerkid: Use this exact phrase to search 'Dual exhaust kit for corolla?' This exact question has been treated at the toyotanation.com forum |
| Car Talk / Re: What Is Your Police Story? by IdaraCHODB(m): 9:42am On Jul 09, 2015 |
chuka5000: Seconded. I have run into a similar bunch around Benin Byepass around 4pm nearly a year ago and I lost 2 hours for refusing to give a bribe, at the speed I was running, given what I know about that road (cow herder robbers) and uncountable pot holes, I wanted to off the Lokoja Okene road before 5pm and on to the Lokoja Abuja road around 6pm. First of all I was delayed, then they seconded one of their men to my car and was asked to follow them to the nearby police station, all in an attempt to intimidate me to give them money. I did not, I lost a lot of time, I nearly reported the matter to those who call the shots, but then I gave up because if I did, the team leader who was about to retire and his dependents would be worse off for it. The price I had to pay was to sleep on the road rather than run into any more potholes, or a robber barricade or a truck or trailer after a major incident with a pothole around 7.30pm that led to the loss of two brand new tires and continue my journey the next day. 1 Like |
| Car Talk / Re: Good People by IdaraCHODB(m): 11:21pm On Jul 02, 2015 |
What grade of engine oil do you use? Is the oil low? Very soon the masters of the craft will add to the list of possibilities, just stay tuned |
| Car Talk / Re: Advice Needed To Repair 2008 Honda Accord 2.4L by IdaraCHODB(m): 11:18pm On Jul 02, 2015 |
adanny01: I really wish you the best in this endeavor because it can be done. At least you have got a service manual, what you need is someone who will follow it religiously. The challenges include the near total absence of new OEM engine parts but used parts with guarantees not worth much, the time it takes to bring new OEM parts from outside the country, the cost of bringing them from outside, mechanics who will not listen to the voice of wisdom ( that is manufacturer service procedure), mechanics that feel that the cost of labour exceeds the money paid to perform the service and will deny them easy jobs that bring in much more to a difficult job that brings in so little profit, lack of a registry of certified engine rebuilders, to mention but a few. If you look at it from the above lenses, you will see why Gazzuzz recommended as above, and now Cardoctor has done the same, and why most Nigerians prefer to replace the engine once and for all and be done with it. Like I said it can be done, it will take your time, and your money, your patience, and your stress and your involvement. Question is, at the end of the day, will it be worth it? The pain versus gain debate. Following the thread quietly all along, but since you have got the passion, keep it up, you might be rewarded for all the stress! If I were in your shoes, I would most likely have done the same. 4 Likes 1 Share |
| Car Talk / Re: My 03 Accord At 200,000miles (321,868km) by IdaraCHODB(m): 8:00am On Jun 25, 2015 |
Piyke: I noticed something similar with a different brand of car. After washing the under of the car, to fight mud that might accelerate rust, I noticed that the engine front cover gasket leaks slightly, so I came to the conclusion that it is not synthetic oil that is shorting my engine oil but that. Needless to say, I will arrange to replace it soon. Am simply agreeing with your position. I have had to top 2 litres and so far I have done 12,000 miles out of a planned 15,000 miles on my Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended Performance. So small leaks are not necessarily that small, because overtime, small adds up. |
| Car Talk / Remote Controlled Range Rovers Coming Soon by IdaraCHODB(m): 2:43am On Jun 18, 2015 |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjJ2wKCMq5w https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKAME9fAA-4 Jaguar Land Rover is showing off a prototype Range Rover Sport that can be remote-controlled via smartphone. Your James Bond fantasies are one step closer to reality. The experimental prototype Remote Control Range Rover Sport does exactly what the name implies: Via a smartphone app, the driver can pilot the vehicle from a short distance away, controlling steering, accelerator and brake, gear shift position, and selection of high or low range. In video demonstration, the system looks pretty nifty. Presented as an off-roader's helper, it allows the driver to check approach and departure angles and proximity to nearby obstacles without having to hop in and out of the driver's seat after every tiny maneuver. And for those whose Range Roving doesn't extend beyond the shopping center parking lot, we see that the system could be plenty helpful when inattentive drivers park too close for you to enter your driver's door. For the complete story: http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a16048/range-rover-smartphone-remote-control/ |
| Car Talk / Future Land Rovers Will Find Potholes And Warn Other Drivers by IdaraCHODB(m): 2:00am On Jun 18, 2015 |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPiynbknYVE Each spring, repair shops welcome us as we replace blown tires and straighten bent rims on our test cars. But if Jaguar Land Rover's new pothole sensors work, we could kill this cycle entirely and free up money to spend on more important things, like company-paid prime-rib dinners. Jaguar Land Rover, drawing data from the road-sensing magnetic shocks in a Range Rover Evoque, is working to record the magnitude of road impacts, tag their location, and upload them to a cloud server where other drivers would be warned of a potential pothole, sunken manhole cover, or deep storm drain. When combined with a stereo camera—two optical cameras positioned close together for judging depth, such as onSubaru's EyeSight system—the car could precisely locate that hole in the road, snap a pic, and report it to the local public-works authority. In the same way that Magic Body Control claims to work in the new Mercedes S-class, the Range Rover's shocks would also prepare for impact if the driver doesn't heed the warning, tensing and slackening accordingly (we've found the Benz feature works best only on speed bumps found in Europe, and it can't react fast enough for potholes). Read more here:http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a15984/range-rover-report-potholes/ |
| Car Talk / Re: After Using Total 20w50 For 6 Years, Is There Any Effect If I Want To Change To by IdaraCHODB(m): 11:21pm On Jun 11, 2015 |
Macmilla: Please answer the questions raised in my post earlier? Is the 5w20 you use fully synthetic or semi-synthetic? Which brand? What vehicle? What engine? Is it known to short oil? Is it known to sludge? Have you been religiously following the recommended Oil Change Interval (OCI)? What is the history of service of the vehicle? What filter do you use with the vehicle? What is the current mileage of the vehicle? |
| Car Talk / Re: After Using Total 20w50 For 6 Years, Is There Any Effect If I Want To Change To by IdaraCHODB(m): 10:47pm On Jun 11, 2015 |
Macmilla: Life is not sometimes YES or NO, sometimes you also get the answer MAYBE. In the same vein, we have BLACK and WHITE and GREY. I just wanted you all to have all the options before you decide that is to say the risk benefit analysis: 1. option 1 continue to use 20W50 2. option 2 switch to 5w20 and use the same engine 3. option 3 switch to 5w20 and use another engine 4. option 4 don't switch but use a different oil say 15w40 5. option 5 switch to 15w40 and use the same engine Whatever you decide, I simply tried to provide further enlightenment so you take a well-thought out decision, whatever you decide, it all depends on factors that I may not fully appreciate or understand, all I know I simply shared information to aid the decision If your engine does not show any signs of being worn, why replace it? I certainly wouldn't, especially given that the condition of the tokunbo engine may be hit or miss since its history cannot be absolutely verified |
| Car Talk / Re: After Using Total 20w50 For 6 Years, Is There Any Effect If I Want To Change To by IdaraCHODB(m): 10:41pm On Jun 11, 2015 |
Macmilla: Is the 5w20 you use fully synthetic or semi-synthetic? Which brand? What vehicle? What engine? Is it known to short oil? Is it known to sludge? Have you been religiously following the recommended Oil Change Interval (OCI)? What is the history of service of the vehicle? What filter do you use with the vehicle? First of all, my advice applies to a case of a badly sludged engine, if your engine is not badly sludged, you can just follow the least recommended OCI for your vehicle with the 5w20. When I switched, I simply changed from 20w50(mineral) to 5w40(full synthetic) and then to 5w30(full synthetic). I didn't apply all the above because (1) my engine has no history of sludge or is not known to have sludge problems and even when I used 20w50 mineral oil, i followed a 3000 miles OCI very religiously before switching to a 5,000 mile OCI (2) I followed the a 5,000 mile change interval for the oil and oil filter (twice) with the 5w40; but 7,500 miles for the oil itself thrice with 5w40 and even 9,000 miles thrice with 5w40; am now doing 15,000 miles oil change/oil filter interval with 5w30 and I have just 4,000 miles left to complete the 15,000 miles OCI, when I do that drain, I will send the oil to Blackstone Labs to confirm if indeed I can continue to maintain the 15,000 miles OCI. Note: It was only during my attempt to stretch the OCI to 15,000 miles that I have ever had to top oil, I have so far topped 1.5L. In your case, I think, as soon as you get to 1,000 miles, do an Oil and Oil Filter change with the same fully synthetic oil. Until I get specific answers to the questions above, I cannot give you a more specific advice. Is your engine worn? I can't say, but this link will enlighten you and help you decide: http://www.coastmotorsupply.com/does_my_engine_need_rebuilding.html |
| Car Talk / Re: After Using Total 20w50 For 6 Years, Is There Any Effect If I Want To Change To by IdaraCHODB(m): 8:00pm On Jun 11, 2015 |
Macmilla: Buy 5 times the 5w20 that you need and 5 separate oil filters, drain the 20w50, pour in the 5w20, drive the car with the new oil for 1000 miles and do an oil and filter change, repeat 4 more times with a new filter each time after clocking another 1000 miles between each oil change (if you are not paranoid) OR reduce the interval to 200 miles and do the oil change 5 times with a new filter each time you have clocked 200 miles (if you are paranoid) and you will not have any issues thereafter. See the very last paragraph of my post above, please read it slowly and very carefully! If I were the one doing the change, I would do the 200 miles option, and do the 200 miles every day for 5 days, and at the last oil change, I would revert to the factory recommended Oil Change Interval! Unless it can be proved that you have a worn engine, in which case you may have to do 5w30 or 5w40 |
| Car Talk / Re: After Using Total 20w50 For 6 Years, Is There Any Effect If I Want To Change To by IdaraCHODB(m): 7:19pm On Jun 11, 2015 |
Macmilla: Gazzuzz is right that a change from 20w50 without more can cause more harm than good. But I disagree with the position that it cannot be done. It can be done, but you need to take one or two steps before. I certainly do not agree that you are stuck until you get a new engine. I think the question by the poster is a very relevant one. It is sad that Macmilla is passing through what he is passing through and that xcitedjay lost his engine, but maybe Macmilla should experiment with the steps I suggest and report back to the forum. I tend to agree with Segzie8180, but there are two ways to do the switch, I prefer the second method: 1. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK: Pour in a quality engine oil flush product (provided that your car manufacturer does not say you must not use it on your model), put in the engine oil you want to drain and drive around for say 50 miles or idle the car or 15 to 30 minutes then drain off the oil and throw away the filter OR 2. PREFERRED METHOD: Buy 5 times the 5w20 that you need and 5 separate oil filters, drain the 20w50, pour in the 5w20, drive the car with the new oil for 1000 miles and do an oil and filter change, repeat 4 more times with a new filter each time after clocking another 1000 miles between each oil change (if you are not paranoid) OR reduce the interval to 200 miles and do the oil change 5 times with a new filter each time you have clocked 200 miles (if you are paranoid) and you will not have any issues thereafter. Infact even if you cannot read everything, please read http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-108/ I think it has answers to the questions raised on this thread Quote taken from http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-103/ The synthetic 10W-30 grade oil is based on a heavier 30 grade oil while the mineral based 10W-30 oil is based on a thinner 10 grade oil. They are both similar at operating temperatures yet the 30 grade based synthetic is actually less thick at startup and much less honey – like at low temperatures. This is the opposite of what common sense dictates. Quote taken from http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-104/ Some people have said they use thicker oils because they only use their cars every 2, 3 or 4 weeks. They are afraid that thin oils will fall off the engine parts and result in a lack of lubrication at startup. Think about your lawn mower over the winter. I gets gummed up solid. The oil and fuel thicken over time resulting in engine failure. Anyway, oil on the surface of parts does not lubricate. It is the FLOW of oil between parts that lubricates. Thick, old, waxy oil can only be bad. I truly believe that oil is much better being too thin than too thick. Over the years we have been going to thinner and thinner oils despite hotter engines with turbos and the like. The tendency is that people figure they need a 40 grade oils but then use a 50 instead. Better thinking is that if you think you need a 40, use a 30 grade oil instead. I firmly believe this based on all I know about oils. As it turns out synthetic oils do cling to parts better as they have higher film strength than mineral oils. Synthetics are thinner overall. They have greater slipperiness. Yet they stick better to engine parts. Again, this concept is the opposite of normal thinking. The thickness of moving oil is measured in centiStokes or cS. Most engines want the oil viscosity to be around 10 cS at normal operating temperature. The really thick multi-grade oils have a viscosity of 20 cS at operating temperature. One is not twice as thick as the other, it is only 10 cS thicker. As we increase the heat from 212°F to 302°F the most commonly recommended oil thins from 10 cS to 3 cS. The thicker oil drops from 20 cS to 4 cS. Note that in a very hot engine the difference between the two oils is now only 1 – 2 cS. In other words they have about the same thickness. There is little advantage to a thicker based oil as a 20W-50 at very high temperatures. No, the 4 cS oil is not twice as thick as the 2 or 3 cS oil. This difference is almost insignificant. There is a huge advantage of using the thinner, 10W-30 at startup where 90 percent of the engine wear occurs. At 75°F the thicker oil has a viscosity in the range of 250 cS while the thinner oil has a viscosity of 100 cS. The thicker stuff is 150 cS thicker. This is a very big difference. I am using the 20W-50 as my thicker oil example here. Using an oil that is less thick at startup has other benefits. Let us compare a synthetic 10W-30 to a mineral based 10W-30. Both give you a viscosity of 10 cS at normal engine operating temperatures. They both thin to 3 cS at high temperatures. At 75°F tomorrow morning the story will be different. The startup viscosity of the synthetic will be 50 whereas the mineral based 10W-30 will be 100. Again, both are too thick at startup but the synthetic will cause less startup time period wear and tear. You will get a little better gas mileage too. The synthetic lubricated engine will turn over easier. This has the effect of using less power from your starter motor. It will last longer. Your battery has less of a current draw. This will also last longer. The battery was discharged less during the start so the alternator will rob less power from your engine to recharge. The alternator lasts longer and you get a little better gas economy. The only downside of synthetic lubricants is the cost. They cost 2 or 3 times as much as mineral based oils. Never-the-less I use plain Pennzoil multi-grade mineral based 5W-20 in my Ford Expedition. This oil is thin enough at startup to have many of the attributes I just mentioned. Quote from http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-105/ In an earlier section I said that thicker oils are usually needed in racing situations but not necessarily. Remember that a major function of oil is to cool the inside of your engine. In ASTM D 4485 3.1.4: “Terminology: Engine oil- a liquid that reduces friction and wear between moving parts within an engine, and also serves as a coolant.” Since the oil with a viscosity of 10 cS at 212°F thins to a viscosity of 3 cS at 302°F we will get more flow. The pressure will go down some as well. This is OK as long as we have a minimum of pressure to move the oil. This increased flow will result in increased cooling by the oil. This is a good thing. You would probably want more oil flow in these situations and you get it. The hotter oil thins and this increases flow. The higher flow works harder to separate the engine parts that are under very high stress. It all works out for the better. Higher revving engines need thinner oils. You do not necessarily need to go to a thicker oil while racing. Only experimentation will tell. The best way to figure out what viscosity of oil you need is to drive the car in the conditions you will use. Then use the oil viscosity that gives you 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM under those circumstances. For some reason very few people are able to get this simple principal correct. I cannot explain further. Now let me discuss what people think is a similar situation to racing. That is hot summer traffic jam driving. Your car should be able to handle this. If you have problems then you have a problem with your car, most likely in need of a cooling system overhaul. When you drive that car down the road mid-winter in upstate New York or mid-summer in Florida the engine and oil temperatures will be around 212°F. But your Florida vacation is suddenly altered by a hurricane. You have to get out of Tampa, but so do a million other people. It is now 95°F and you are in a snarl. Everyone thinks they need a thicker oil for this situation. This is false. Your engine is not producing much heat at low RPM and low BHP output. The production of heat is relatively slow. It can easily be transmitted to your cooling system. The problem is that your cooling system has trouble getting rid of the heat. The oil and the coolant will slowly rise in temperature. They both rise together. The increase is no big deal for your oil. It goes to 220°, then 230°F. The problem is that the cooling system can only handle heat up to 230°F. After that you overheat the cooling system and the car must be shut off. The oil never got that hot, It was just that the water got a little hotter than its system design. You now see that overheating in traffic is a cooling system problem and not an oil system problem. Do not change to a thicker oil based on your traffic situation. These same rules apply to engines of any age, loose or tight. Just because your engine is old does not mean it needs a thicker oil. It will need a thicker oil only if it is overly worn, whether new or old. Yet the same principals of 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM still apply. In all cases you need to try different grade oils and see what happens. Then choose the correct viscosity. Quote from http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-107/ The 0W-20 Mobil 1 that is SL rated meets the same criteria as that SL rated 10W-30 synthetic or mineral based Pennzoil. That SJ or in particular that SH oil some people are looking for (from their older automotive owners manual) is no where near as good as any SL oil of today. Always use the most currently available, highest rated motor oil, even in the oldest, most worn engine. You may require a thicker grade but just make sure it is SL or SM rated. Quote from http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-108/ People say that their old car manual says to use a 10W-40 so they would never think of using a 0W-40. Again, both are the same viscosity at normal engine operating temperature. The 0W-40 just does not thicken as much after you turn off your engine. There are now several cases when manuals for older cars have been updated to reflect this. My 550 Ferrari Maranello manual said to use 5W-40 yet the 575 manual says to use the 0W-40. The engines are the same except the 575 has more BHP. It has better acceleration and more top speed. The engines have the same tolerances. All manufacturers I have seen are specifying 0W-XX or 5W-XX oils now. Honda, Ferrari, Ford, Mercedes, Porsche, and others specify a 0 or 5W-XX oil to mention a few. These are appropriate for all engines of all ages of all levels of wear. [i]This second number is the only thing that may change with an older, lose or worn engine. This can only be determined by experimentation. [/i]If you are using XW-50, go to a 0W-40. If your pressures are still too high go to a 0W-30 and so on. Older engines may in fact benefit from thinner oil use. Over time permanent deposits of carbon and sludge build up in the engine oil ways. It is like a clogging of arteries in humans. We are now all on blood thinners. This is an area I specifically studied while a general surgeon resident at Chapel Hill. Thinner oils, and specifically synthetic products are better. Some people say their engines were “designed” to run on mineral based lubricates. I have not seen anything to support this theory. The synthetic of the same viscosity as the mineral oil you are now using will be an improvement. If you go from a mineral to an even thinner synthetic you may be better off still. The pressures go up in many older engines because of this “clogging” of the arteries. Most think this is good but it is really a lessening of flow and therefore accelerates engine wear even further. For those engines with excessive varnish and carbon buildup the engine oil additives of the detergent type may be of benefit. On the other hand you could just use a thin synthetic oil and change it every 200 miles for a while and end up with an even cleaner engine. With everything working properly you may actually need a thicker oil if that engine is overly worn. The thicker oil would be a disaster however, if the arteries were narrowed from deposits. 3 Likes |
| Car Talk / Re: After Using Total 20w50 For 6 Years, Is There Any Effect If I Want To Change To by IdaraCHODB(m): 4:29pm On Jun 11, 2015 |
Please spend some time reading: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ Excerpt: More confusion occurs because people think in terms of the oil thinning when it gets hot. They think this thinning with heat is the problem with motor oil. It would be more correct to think that oil thickens when it cools to room temperature and THIS is the problem. In fact this is the problem. It is said that 90 percent of engine wear occurs at startup. If we are interested in engine longevity then we should concentrate our attention at reducing engine wear at startup. 1 Like |
| Car Talk / Before You Race That Car! Can It Stand The Heat? by IdaraCHODB(m): 6:04pm On Jun 09, 2015 |
Original title:Z Meets Wall: We Investigate Why the NISMO Z's Brakes Failed at Lightning Lap Teaser:A follow-up look into what caused the brake failure and collision of our Nissan NISMO 370Z. Excerpt: When we last left off, we had just embedded a Nissan NISMO 370Z into Virginia International Raceway’s Turn One retaining wall during our fourth Lightning Lap [February 2010] so forcefully as to have fused them together into a sort of vehicular diphthong. The cause? It certainly wasn’t a case of running out of talent. No—fact is, the NISMO’s presumably strong brakes weren’t. And they failed us at the worst possible time—at the fastest point on the track, when we were attempting to decelerate from 130 mph for the 45-mph right-hander that is Turn One. What was unnerving to this driver, having just survived the most terrifying experience in a 15-year driving life, was that Nissan officials from Japan weren’t at all surprised. They matter-of-factly reported that the Z’s stock brake pads were designed primarily for low noise and low dust, and not for racetrack situations. It’s our view, however—and we don’t think we’re alone—that the NISMO Z, an even sportier version of a sports car, should be equipped with brakes competent enough to survive a few hot laps. And it’s worth noting that we’ve never experienced such hellacious brake degradation in the history of our Lightning Lap events. As a result of our crash, Nissan began offering high-performance brake pads as a $580 option for any Sport package–equipped 370Z or NISMO Z. Read more here:http://www.caranddriver.com/features/z-meets-wall-we-investigate-why-the-nismo-zs-brakes-failed-at-lightning-lap |
| Car Talk / Semi(usa)/trailer Or Tanker(nigeria) Accidents Also Happen In The First World! by IdaraCHODB(m): 5:48pm On Jun 09, 2015 |
What happens when an 18-wheeler semi truck crashes into a C3 Corvette stopped at Highway 97 and Veterans Way? It lays waste to an extent the old school Corvette become a piece of flat pack furniture form IKEA. Take into account the speed and weight of the semi, the fragility of an old sports car and the two young women aboard the veteran Chevrolet Corvette. It goes without saying that this is the recipe for a fatal crash, but it seems like Lady Luck smiled upon the two women in the Corvette. The 19-year-old driver and her younger sister suffered only minor injuries. The two were transported to St. Charles Redmond Hospital and St. Charles Medical Center in Bend for recovery, writes BendNewsToday. It seems like the word of the day starts with “m” and ends with an “iracle.” But the dramatic crash doesn’t stop here. After the trucker had slammed the brakes of his 18-wheeler, crushing the white-painted Corvette’s passenger side, the behemoth semi got to rear-end a Subaru SUV before coming to a full stop. Subsequently, the SUV “kissed” a Ford Ranger. Read more here:http://www.autoevolution.com/news/semi-crushes-corvette-and-rear-ends-suv-in-oregon-96427.html |
| Car Talk / Re: Mazda Tribute;Pls share your Sincere Experience. by IdaraCHODB(m): 6:21pm On Jun 01, 2015 |
omotoda: You can fix the design flaw by following the instructions here: http://www.mpvclub.com/tsb.php?id=154 All MPVs since 2002 come with an upgraded alternator that incorporates the elements of that TSB! |
| Car Talk / 5 Used Bikes Too Dangerous For New Riders by IdaraCHODB(m): 10:38am On May 22, 2015 |
I remember when I brought home my 2001 Yamaha YZF-R1 at the ripe age of 19 years old. My father, who had been riding all types of motorcycles for the better part of four decades, decided he wanted to take it for a ride around the block. It had easily been 10 years since he last rode a sportbike, so he wasn’t sure what he was in for. I was expecting him to pull up from his short test ride grinning ear to ear, but instead he pulled into the driveway shaking his head in disbelief. He promptly parked the bike and stepped away from it like it had bit him. As he took off the helmet, he looked at me and said, “You are absolutely crazy to ride this. If I had any machine like this when I was your age, you and I wouldn’t be here.” I remember those words when I see some new riders picking up used bikes far beyond their skill level. Here are five bikes that new riders should avoid while they hone their skills on the street. #1: 2002-2003 Honda CBR954RR it has an appetite for speed and also has a stout hardware list. ..The raw and mean powerband, combined with a shorter wheelbase means new riders can unintentionally lift the front end too high. #2: 2004-2005 Kawasaki ZX10R The bright green liter machine from this generation is well known for being an ill-mannered, pissed off rocket on steroids. This insane bike had class leading horsepower, the lowest class weight, and the shortest class wheelbase... #3: 2009+ Ducati Streetfighter 1098 ...The 85 ft/lbs of torque produced by the Testastretta monster keep your eyeballs glued to their sockets in any gear, especially north of 100mph where a lack of windshield turns you into a human sail. Even with ample rider aids, a beginner rider can only hold on and hope for the best. #4: 1999 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300R This particular year was produced before the electronically limited top speed law, which makes it a collector for the loyalists. ... I would hope it's common knowledge that all new riders should avoid a Busa as a first bike. #5: 2005-2006 Suzuki GSX-R1000 ...For a beginner, it's one whiskey throttle away from an ambulance ride. The steering was incredibly sharp, but unforgiving to those with poor form, and the engine produced an unadulterated 175bhp... Conclusion: There are many more bikes that could be added to this list, and even modern 600cc machines are too much for a new rider at times. Thankfully, rider aids have helped tone down stupid decisions and keep the bike in check. The biggest life saver for a new rider is to keep the ego to a minimum and ride at your own pace. If you feel the urge to ride all out, then take it to the track Read more:https://www.yahoo.com/autos/s/5-used-bikes-too-dangerous-141909247.html |
| Car Talk / Re: Car Accident Prevention Tips by IdaraCHODB(m): 9:11pm On May 19, 2015 |
Here are some rules to consider, I like many of the tips above 1. SLOW DOWN in the rain. I witnessed no less than 15 accidents as a result of hydroplaning on the highways while driving between Abuja and Asaba two weeks ago, only 4 of those involved 2 vehicles, the rest where singular incidents that were as a result of hydroplaning. Vehicles slid off the road and got stuck in the mud; other vehicles slid off the road and found themselves in the bush; yet other vehicles crashed into the road barrier. Driving an empty vehicle in the rain and driving a fully loaded vehicle in the rain is as different as the day and night. If you can drive long distance in the rain without issues, then you are in a very different league as a driver 2. SLOW DOWN WHEN FACED WITH ONCOMING TRAFFIC If you know that trucks have changed the rules of the road like they do between the Asaba and Benin, then slow down. For those that do not know what I mean, those trucks ignore the rules of the expressway and drive on both sides of the express so that drivers have to deal with oncoming traffic. 3. SLEEP WELL BEFORE LONG TRIPS Nothing beats a well rested mind to tackle the dangers of the road and on the road 1 Like |
| Car Talk / Re: MAZDA 6. To Buy Or Not To Buy by IdaraCHODB(m): 4:08am On Apr 30, 2015 |
Not In The Big Leagues Yet, But Mazda 6 Sales Are Steadily Rising http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2015/04/not-big-leagues-yet-mazda-6-sales-steadily-rising/ |
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