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Car Talk › Re: Automatic Gearbox Problems by IdaraCHODB(m): 12:02pm On Aug 24, 2015*

I have the utmost respect for my peers so I worded my initial post and response carefully.

I did not disparage anyone or method, I simply provided an alternative approach and I did not say take my word for it, I defended why I take the position I hold so you can make an informed choice. I do not subscribe to the cult of authority, do it because I(an expert) says so, I believe you should take that position because it is rational or makes sense. And you should decide with the help of all the facts you can muster.

I accept that there are many routes to the same location.

I never recommended a transmission flush, I mean I never recommended a power transmission flush! Neither did the manufacturer

I recommended a gentle flush via the drain and refill method using about 6 litres more than you use for normal drain and refill which will make the fluid run until it becomes clear thus reducing by nearly 70% TO 90% the amount of old ATF in your system.

Now on the second issue of cooler line and oil cooler flush, that is a recommended procedure for rebuilds, but what harm would it cause to do it before you get to the stage of a rebuild? NONE! Why are rebuilds necessary? One of the reasons is that overtime contaminants build up and clog the system.

Now, like it or like it not, every time you use your transmission or even the engine, it creates particles which in combination with the effect of friction and heat and oxidation cause it to change colour. Is that not why you change your oil filter along with the engine oil? What happens in the engine as far as contaminants and particles being created also happens in the transmission and the perfect place for them to hide is guess what? the oil cooler and the oil cooler lines! And if you don't do something about those? Guess where they will end up? Guess what the end result will always be?

Do you know how a mesh looks like? Look it up! Unless you do a backflush a flush and another backflush using fluids and air, those particles will remain in the transmission oil cooler and cooler lines, many transmission shops do not care, but I am anal about it.

Your alternative is to buy a new radiator and a new oil cooler. Matter of fact, some people actually replace those with a rebuild rather than flush, the idea is simple, reduce the number of contaminants that get into the transmission.

You can also install an inline filter to ensure that its filtered ATF that the pump feeds to the transmission.

I also said heat is the best enemy of your transmission beyond using quality ATF to delay degradation, increase the cooling capacity of your ATF beyond stock and your transmission will thank you for it with an extended lifespan

Educate yourself at the below:
http://www.mazda3forums.com/95-maintenance-care/262875-how-install-transmission-cooler-flush-8-quarts-atf.html
http://www.mazda3forums.com/95-maintenance-care/331789-how-drain-flush-atf-fluid-atx-mazda-3-a-21.html
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20130918102911AAwnVm2

All the best

4 Likes

Car Talk › Re: Automatic Gearbox Problems by IdaraCHODB(m): 11:28pm On Aug 23, 2015*

USAutoBuy:
With all due respect, you are talking of 2 different things. The guy is not REPLACING the tranny. Bulletin is talking about when a rebuilt tranny or replacement is to be installed.

I stand to be corrected

Yes, he is not replacing the tranny agreed!

But he has bad ATF which flows through the oil cooler lines and oil cooler. Especially if he did not use a synthetic ATF.

If the tranny has degraded so much, and he doesn't plan on replacing the tranny anytime soon, then i recommend that he puts two and two together, that is, make a learned inference from the above service bulletin.

his oil cooler is now clogged, same goes for the transmission lines, in addition to the dirts clogging the transmission itself.

So I would flush not with a machine but via the return line method first until fluid is clear, he may need up to 6 litres above normal ATF capacity to get this done

THEN

disconnect tranny lines and oil coolers

AND DO

a backflush, a flush and another backflush using fluids and air compressor methods

THEN

reconnect.

if he doesn't follow this procedure, all his new ATF will be immediately contaminated and will turn brown within 5,000 to 10,000 miles

each subsequent minor drain and refill without clearing the oil cooler and lines will continually increase the debris until the transmission packs up

So true, Mazda didn't say so, but I can infer that he needs to do it or pay the price of a transmission replacement in 30,000 to 50,000 miles.

Car Talk › Re: Automatic Gearbox Problems by IdaraCHODB(m): 10:50pm On Aug 23, 2015*

lele007:
Hello Cardoctor,

I drive a Mazda 3 2005 model with auto transmission.

The ATF is now brownish, sometimes, after extended driving, the car doesn't change thru gears properly, and one day the gearbox warning light came on. So I've bought enough Mobil 1 ATF to do a complete drain and flush, the problem is, all the mechanics I've spoken to don't have a professional autotrans flush machine.

Where can I do this fluid change, in a way that completely removes the old, degraded fluid, as opposed to a simple drain and fill?

This link will absolutely surprise a lot of people as it goes against popular advice, proof that each car and sometimes even each model is different, and when giving advice that needs to be taken into consideration.

Mazda recommends flushing of its transmission cooler lines and oil cooler, I have evidence also that Honda recommends the same, but Honda is not the subject of your issue, so I am not going to post the relevant service bulletin.

http://miata.net/garage/tsb/05-008-11-2587.pdf

Your vehicle falls under the models 2004 - 2012 Mazda 3 except SKYACTIV

We have been doing Mazda for several generations and I have subscription to Mazda Dealer Level Information.

You have allowed that ATF to degrade too much. You must absolutely do something about it! You must absolutely flush the transmission via the return pipe method, and the transmission cooler lines and oil cooler and to avoid a transmission change. I see one coming within the next 30,000 miles unless you act swiftly on the above recommendation.

Extract:
Automatic Transaxle/Transmission (A/T) oil cooler and lines must be power flushed completely before an over-
hauled or replacement A/T is installed (except SKYACTIV-DRIVE).

The most common cause of repeat A/T failures is lack of lubrication to the front and rear planetary gears. This is usually caused by an accumulation of metal particles and debris (from a previous A/T failure) on the internal mesh type baffle of the oil cooler.

Power
flushing will remove the restriction by back flushing, followed by forward flushing to dislodge a restriction, then back flushing again.

This will in turn ensure full ATF flow for the transmission when it is operating.

You must absolutely use a high quality synthetic ATF in your Mazda transmission and install an external oil cooler in series with the OEM to protect your transmission and if you please an in-line transmission filter

Car Talk › Re: Which Of These Minivan Should I Choose For Family by IdaraCHODB(m): 1:31pm On Aug 14, 2015*

To further the discussion on this thread, i found two links of interest, now this post is going to consider issues related to vehicles outside the 1997 to 2000 band that the OP was interested it.

It would seem Honda fixed its issues with the transmission from the 2005 up

It also appears that Honda's transmission issues came from Honda deciding to build the ATX in-house due to issues with paying of royalties and patent infringement liability avoidance.

As you can see, Honda did not get it right initially, but it did eventually which is one more reason why it doesn't make sense to accept without questioning everything an OEM tells you to do. Sometimes you are a guinea pig and from the failures you suffer and/or endure, they make corrections and adaptations

Interesting and very informative reads for those that can make the time to read it:

2011 article: http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2011/01/piston-slap-more-honda-slushbox-fail/

2015 article: http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2015/02/piston-slap-even-honda-slushbox-fail/

Actually if you drive a Honda built between 2000 and 2006 including an Accord, you might learn a thing or two and possibly get explanations for your transmission soft and hard failures. Now imagine replacing a bad transmission with another tokunbo transmission with the same defect from the factory, and without these kinds of threads you just do not know why it keeps happening to you!

I do feel that the current generation Honda Odyssey that is from 2011 to date is as reliable as the Toyota Sienna so don't let internet folklore prevent you from getting a Honda Odyssey of that generation if you so desire

Car Talk › Re: Importing New Original Spare Parts To Nigeria by IdaraCHODB(m): 11:01pm On Aug 13, 2015

grafikii:
Hi, can you help buy and ship engine oil additives from the
US, I need Lucas stop leak and lubeguard atf conditioner.

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 11:00pm On Aug 13, 2015

IyaIode:
Wow, thanks. This product has great reviews, I should get one. Do you know if it's available in Nigeria or I should just order from Amazon

If you check the normal suspects and don't find it, you will be left with no choice than to order from outside!

Autos › Re: Worried @ Fraud? Here'S OUR Terms And Conditions! by IdaraCHODB(op): 10:58pm On Aug 13, 2015

grafikii:
Hi, can you help buy and ship engine oil additives from the
US, I need Lucas stop leak and lubeguard atf conditioner.

Noted, you will hear from me within the next 30 days

Car Talk › Re: All My DIY Repairs And More In One Place: www.diyautoworksng.com by IdaraCHODB(m): 11:35pm On Aug 12, 2015

Piyke:
So I got me a blog www.diyautoworksng.com to have all my DIY repairs in one place.
Updates still underway though, work has been really busy.
Hope you find it an interesting read! Just unleashing my passion for DIY repairs on my car.

All the best
Piyke,
DIYAutoWorksNG
www.diyautoworksng.com

Hi Dear Piyke

Way to go my friend!

How about Google Adsense to help defray hosting costs?

All the best!

Your friend

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 4:38am On Aug 09, 2015

IyaIode:
I think I will go with 4 ,thanks so much for your assistance

This quote might interest you:

I had to replace the in-line transmission filter my dealer installed when the transmission was replaced in my '04 Explorer. Ford really screwed the public with this year Explorer due to the absolutely terrible transmission design, lack of a transmission filler, and other issues. But, once I had the transmission fixed I found a Ford factory service bulletin that requires the Dealer to install an in-line filter after each rebuilt transmission is installed. The Raybestos 3/8" filter works great and is an easy install with two small hose clamps. Great product to help avoid another transmission failure. Ford refused to help anyone fix these problems so I won't buy another new Ford after 30 years of being a loyal customer. Thank you Raybestos for making a great product!

Source: http://www.amazon.com/Magnefine-Inline-Magnetic-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B0065LZA94

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 4:33am On Aug 09, 2015

The cheapest inline filter for your transmission that I know http://magnefinefilters.com/Magnefine-1-2-Magnetic-Inline-Transmission-Filter-R012M.htm

If you have the cash and don't mind spending, then you can do hydraulic filters with bypass systems, this is the ideal solution, but the former is better than nothing

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 10:04pm On Aug 05, 2015

sultaan:
If the manufacturer recommend you change your oil and filter with a semi synthetic 5w20 every 6000 mile or six months that is what you do.

If they say drain atf and replace atf filter every 25000 miles or 2 years that is what you do.

I won't recommend things manufacturers did not approve.

Very reasonable perspective

But I have learnt that there have been manufacturer unsanctioned modifications to cars made by customers/owners that became incorporated into later models by a few manufacturers.

Also technical service bulletins reversing positions or outright replacing parts or even modifications of service procedures leads me to believe that the manufacturer is not always right and may be driven by concerns which do not always mean what is best for the customer.

So for me I try to reverse engineer the reason for a manufacturers' position and decide whether to follow or not or follow with modifications.

A practical example is lifetime fluids which must customers mean forever, but seems to mean to the manufacturer, keep this thing intact until the warranty period is over, thereafter the customer is on his own and we have no contractual obligations to him or her

I could give more examples but I guess I have made my point.

And don't for a moment imagine that I of the opinion that you are being unreasonable, not at all.

I feel that when one reaches some level of comfort knowledge-wise, understanding how car systems work and interrelate and depend on each other, and knows the implications of modifications and is willing to take calculated risks, he or she may be rewarded handsomely for not blindly following the manufacturer.

Isn't it my car after-all?

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 6:56am On Aug 05, 2015

sultaan:
Too much drama here just drain and refill with specified fluids at specified intervals chikena

Two much drama?

Well she asked:Is OK to flush out and refill all the atf at once in a transmission with 145,000 milage?

Which basically means should I so an abrupt/complete or a gradual drain?

Which kind of drain are you recommending in the circumstance?

Many manufacturers recommend flushes at specific intervals, even Ford recommends at 30,000 miles for some years of the escape, I have not read it being recommended at 140,000

Since the OP seems to be considering doing it all at once, we need to give her all the variables to decide wisely.

Many manufacturers also recommend cooler line flushes, but I forget to check if Ford is one of them until a few hours ago.

I think you may need to be a bit more specific, which kind of drain and refill do you recommend in the circumstance.

Decision making is not that easy and several variables have to be considered, I am trying to supply a few plus isn't it highly desirable to be able to reverse oneself should one find out he made a mistake in dishing out advice good intentions notwithstanding?

I have just had to replace my transmission because of installation errors at the last transmission place ( a highly recommended facility which I have used severally), and I am doing it all by myself this time around using a factory service manual and tools and a helper under my guidance and direction, hence my particular interest in helping her get it right irrespective of who she works with so she doesn't have to suffer the way I did

The key variable that made me decide to do the above myself is that this highly recommended place that I have used severally told me when I asked ( based on my knowledge that the manufacturer of my vehicle says in an official bulletin, flush the radiator cooler lines and the auxiliary cooler lines before installing a new or overhauled transmission) can you please help me flush these things before installation? He said it is not possible! It cannot be done!! Now that transmission is gone!!! If I go back there, it will turn out the same way.

So given all the variables and given that she is a lady, and given what I have seen on this forum, the key variable is that GAZZUZZ appears not to be that kind of person, he appears to update himself, his suggestion makes sense, and he has devised some very ingenious solutions to problems of his customers, so I can recommend she goes the route she is asking providing she does it under his direction.

But personally I prefer progressive dilution and that is what I earlier recommended but i know that with the filter in place, things will not be messed up otherwise I would have told her I am not in support of her idea!

Which means her question is basically still unanswered by you: Which kind of drain are you recommending in the circumstance? and why?

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 9:20pm On Aug 04, 2015

IdaraCHODB:
Summary: heat is a serious problem with this transmission, so try and get an auxiliary ATF cooler like Setrab or Mocal or Trucool and also use synthetic ATF, CAUSE you are dealing with finicky and rather delicate as opposed to rugged transmission here.

Also disconnect your ATF Cooler lines and use this product Lubegard 19001 Dr. Tranny Kooler Kleen Transmission Line Flush and compressed air to clear out all the debris so that it can give you its maximum cooling effect since the tranny has a cooling deficiency right from the factory

[/quote]Advice modification:

Rather than flush your cooler lines given that it is a Ford Escape and given the instructions at the below link from the manufacturer, you may kind about in consultation with your mechanic arranging to buy and install new Cold Weather Transmission Fluid Cooler Bypass Kit with part no:

7L8Z-7K177-A Cold Weather Bypass Kit - (2001-2007)

Read more: http://www.escape-city.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=22875

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 9:07pm On Aug 04, 2015

IyaIode:
Is OK to flush out and refill all the atf at once in a transmission with 145,000 milage?
Tell present atf in the transmission is clearly oxidized and smells badly but it's not Brown or black yet. Doing the regular 4 quartz drain and fill mean mixing and oxidized atf with new one even if it is done twice or 3 times. I am so confused right now.

DECOtech, GAZZUZZ, IdaraCHODB, sultaan
I have also read about drain through the radiator hose, I have actually seen someone do it but with my transmission at 140,000 miles I am scared of the new transmission dissolving gunk that will further damage the transmission.

You have basically got four choices

1. Gradual drain and refill without inline filter/remote filter
2. Gradual drain and refill with inline filter/remote filter
3. Abrupt drain and refill without inline filter/remote filter
4. Abrupt drain and refill with inline filter/remote filter

2 and 4 are better if you want to be safer than sorry.

If you go with 4 under the guidance and supervision of GAZZUZZ, I want to believe that you will be fine.

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 8:44pm On Aug 04, 2015

IyaIode:
Wow, this is the best idea I have come across since my extensive reading on this topic, this makes sense since the transmission filter is not serviceable. God bless for this advice. I will contact you soon. I could have brought the car to you immediately but I am yet to fix my license

Now am getting jealous... but then then I told you to meet him twice right? and apparently no one else did! Anyway, I am doing the exact same thing to my transmission, as i said some days ago on another thread on this forum.

Your transmission i the weak link in an otherwise ok vehicle, so over to GAZZUZZ to help you

Car Talk › Re: Please I Need Urgent Assistance On This by IdaraCHODB(m): 7:41pm On Aug 01, 2015

Chizzyferd:
Am planing to get a car that can contain a family of 8 persons and I have narrowed my search to just to cars 2007 honda pilot or 2007 mercedes r350. I want my fellow naira landers to advise me since this is my First time that i want to buy a car all comments are welcomed and will be not pls help

Honda Odyssey Third Generation 2005 - 2010, but dont buy touring because of run flat Pax tires

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 7:18pm On Aug 01, 2015

IyaIode:
Thanks again, unfortunately Decotech is no longer in lagos, I am not far from gowon estate.

Try GAZZUZZ

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 6:42pm On Aug 01, 2015

IyaIode:
The recommended viscosity is 5w-20, secondly the manual say motorcraft synthetic blend, is it still advisable to go for full synthetic Mobil 1

Pls I need to get this straight, are you saying I should leave the present oil and Change the filter 5 times or I should change to Mobil 1 and Change my filter 5 times.

Thanks for your assistance, looking forward to your response

If the manual specifically states motorcraft synthetic blend, that is what I would do, I know for a certainty that you can find that in Nigeria at the moment

On the second point, I am saying replace the old oil which you are complaining about with new oil ( which should be Motorcraft synthetic blend not Mobil 1) and then do the oil filter change 5 times at the interval I recommended and after doing highway not just town miles

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 6:39pm On Aug 01, 2015

IyaIode:
Please where can I get this done in lagos.

You need to purchase at least 6 cans of any of the above, and tell a trusted/open-minded mechanic to do a backflash, then a forward flush and finally a back flush of your in-radiator ATF cooler as well as the transmission oil external cooler and then follow it up with the air compressor flush.

I think if you do not have such a mechanic, I think I will recommend either DECOtech or GAZZUZZ.

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 11:12am On Aug 01, 2015

DECOtech:
I have gone through the links you posted and seen that none is later than 2013

Have you taken a look at your transmission fluid dipstick before?

Any transmission that has Mercon as recommended ATF can also use Mercon V cos Mercon V is an improved formulation of the Mercon series of ATF

God bless you.

Let me clarify my earlier post.

From my earlier post, two kinds of Mercon V exist, the one that was incompatible with the vehicle in question and the one that is.

One thing is certain at least since this Ford TSB 06-14-4 the position you canvass that Mercon V is compatible with the vehicle in question is right, while my position that Mercon is compatible is wrong (at least in the sense of lack of availability).

In other words, note that Ford TSB 06-14-4 supercedes the position in Ford TSB 01-15-7 and that effective July 1, 2007 Mercon V is the recommended ATF.

My point then is just ensure the date of manufacture of the Mercon V is from and after July 1, 2007 and not before.

Thanks Decotech and keep up the good work.

Car Talk › Re: What's Best Remover Of BLACK STAINS Under NAILS After Working On Cars? by IdaraCHODB(m): 3:15am On Aug 01, 2015

Piyke:
Got from the UK. What major surgery...ears tingling...

I am beginning with replacing my transmission and modifying the ATF cooling system to include aftermarket transmission temperature gauges, dedicated ATF external cooler running in line with in-radiator cooler and factory installed auxiliary cooler, dedicated temperature controlled fans for the external ATF oil cooler to regulate ATF temperatue between 188 and 195 degrees, as well as a thermostatic kit with a thermal bypass to cater to concerns over overcooling while providing adequate cooling for extreme circumstances, near total cooling system overhaul to coincide with new transmission installation, i.e., new single cell radiator and new factory OEM auxiliary cooler as well as a hydraulic filter with a bypass valve for the ATF.

The job is too delicate for me not to be personally involved.

Going forward, if I have an engine failure in the future I will replace it myself. Same goes for transmissions replacements going forward.

I have bought all the equipment to hoist the vehicle off the ground so I can do serious DIY.

So that is what I have planned on the cards

I got the manual ones for now, but before long, I intend to go automated, by getting automated hydraulic lifts.

Car Talk › Re: What's Best Remover Of BLACK STAINS Under NAILS After Working On Cars? by IdaraCHODB(m): 3:04am On Aug 01, 2015

Siena:
[color=Blue]I have tons Nitrile gloves in stock, in blue and black, sizes S, M, L and XL.

I buy them whoesale, as I work on multiple vehicles daily, and I would not handle oily / greasy components without them.[/color]

I will get in touch. Or can you shoot me an email, so we can take it from there!

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 2:34am On Aug 01, 2015

cretin:
superb advice has beeen given here,
if you switch to synthetic/ semi synthetic..........since it has detergent properties...and u aint sure of what the previous owner had in there all this while...i wud advice you to run the sythethic oil for just 200 to 300 miles...best if most of the miles is at highway speeds...then drain,,,replace filter and then refill with the recommended oil.........this is cos the synth oil will clean the engine and its not good to hv all those junk floating around in the system for long...[am almost certain the previous owner was using 20w 50 oil]

for ur transmission..my advice in such cases is to leave it alone, since the car is driving fine.......most abused trannys have failed immediately after changing the fluid cos of .....omo i no get strength to write plenty.........

so as i was saying only change the bad fluid if ur car is having drivability issues, thus you dont hv anything to loose if the tranny packs up immediately after the change

He has advised you well on the engine oil side of things. After putting in the oil, not good enough to do local town runs, meaning anything under 20 miles (32 kilometers), drive the vehicle till the engine becomes hot at highway speeds for distances between 50 miles ( 80 kilometers) to make up at least 1/2 to 1/3 of the 200 to 300 miles he advises before doing the oil filter changes I recommended and oil top ups.

I most respectfully disagree with him on the ATF side of things and my previous posts have explained why!

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 2:27am On Aug 01, 2015

nurey:
I am not much of a guru, the main thing I want you to note is the burnt smell of the transmission fluid, I have noticed here on nairaland that most people who drain the ATF end up changing the whole gear completely because draining would now bring out the problem of the gear/burnt gear components.

Also concerning the engine oil, let's suppose the former owner has been using 20W50 reason I said this is that all my life I have seen reckless people give good cars to mechanic, the engine oil the mechanics use is the mobile 20w50 they always buy. would advice you go back to the recommended in a steady way maybe 10w first then later on 5w because the 20w would have done it's damage already. find a competent mechanic to help confirm this.

since we don't get snow in naija you can use the total coolant without antifreeze it has been tested and trusted.

just my observation

Nurey is right, now let me add the following:

The name of the game here is not abrupt change of the operating circumstances of the transmission but progressive change. If you can follow the instructions here and change a maximum of 2L or about 2 Quart every week for the next 4 to 8 weeks it all depends on your pocket, the colour of the fluid will change. Note: When you drop 2L or about 2 Quart of the old, put in an equivalent of the new!

You could use the drain plug as recommended here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2640192

Here is how I would recommend that you do it:

http://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php?title=CD4E_Oil_change_%28Mondeo_Mk1/2/3%29 OR here http://www.fordforumsonline.com/threads/cd4e-transmission-fluid-change.455/

Set a reminder on your phone or in the vehicle to absolutely check the ATF condition every 5,000 miles at the very worst, and at the very best once every week, the moment it starts turning brown or smelling burnt, throw all calculations of mileage out of the window and simply replace the ATF! Trust me, I have driven vehicles with this transmission and you must not joke with this piece of advice!!

Also read here http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2640192 and here http://www.escape-city.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=40&start=30 and finally here http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=655008( i guess this last one is almost a Bible on your transmission!)

All the best!

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 2:10am On Aug 01, 2015

IyaIode:
I also read on this section where GAZZUZZ told someone not to buy milemaster, I don't know if the advice was for that specific honda or milemaster is generally a bad engine oil. Pls help a sister o

I have said elsewhere in this forum that I prefer Mobil 1 to Milemaster, so please get Mobil 1 of the recommended viscosity, I have not researched but it should be 5w-20 or 5w-30

I read somewhere that a certain company never changed their oil for over 200,000 miles but kept changing and topping up the fluid every 6,000 miles to save money and they had no issues

How does that apply to you? Since you do not know the history of service of the ride, buy 5 oil filters and replace the oil filters every 1,000 miles but not the oil, all you need to do is to top it up.

I strongly feel that you will not run into issues and so after that aggressive oil filter change routine, you can return to the factory recommended oil and oil filter service routine

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 2:03am On Aug 01, 2015*

DECOtech:
Wrong choice.

For the 2004 Ford Escape, the tranny fluid is Mercon V

@ IyaIode, I'm currently in Abia state. If you are in Lagos, pls find Gazzuzz.

I have been longer than the 24 hours I promised, but I will do you justice, I will give you the facts the way a lawyer would do before a court in hopes of winning a case. I rather delay than give you a half-hearted response, I delayed because I had my own battles to fight!

Fact: It seems with due respect to my brother that I am quoting that Mercon V may not be the appropriate choice for that vehicle, unless you can somehow guarantee that the Mercon V is indeed the reformulation not the initial

Line of proof:"... in the older Escapes, 2001 to 2004, using Mercon V before the reformulation caused the transmission to have problems, mainly during shifting and in the 40 to 50 mph range with the torque converter engaging and disengaging."

For further information, please read here:http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1093136-ford-escape-transmission-fluid.html

You should be worried and you are rightly worried because the vehicle contains a CD4E transmission and it is known to have issues, see here why I say so: http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Escape/2004/transmission/transmission_failure.shtml

But you can protect your investment(s) by following the following recommendations:
1. http://etereman.com/blog/ford-transmission-2/the-ford-cd4e-your-most-burning-questions-answered

2. http://etereman.com/blog/ford-transmission-2/cd4e-transmission-ford-escape-slipping

3. http://etereman.com/blog/ford-transmission-2/things-you-can-do-to-extend-the-life-of-the-cd4e-transmission-in-your-ford-escape

4. http://etereman.com/blog/transmission-care/the-top-5-most-replaced-automatic-transmissions. Forget the first 3 and the last one, just read up on the 4th

Summary: heat is a serious problem with this transmission, so try and get an auxiliary ATF cooler like Setrab or Mocal or Trucool and also use synthetic ATF, CAUSE you are dealing with finicky and rather delicate as opposed to rugged transmission here.

Also disconnect your ATF Cooler lines and use this product Lubegard 19001 Dr. Tranny Kooler Kleen Transmission Line Flush and compressed air to clear out all the debris so that it can give you its maximum cooling effect since the tranny has a cooling deficiency right from the factory

Car Talk › Re: What's Best Remover Of BLACK STAINS Under NAILS After Working On Cars? by IdaraCHODB(m): 5:49pm On Jul 30, 2015

Piyke:
Finally got me some Nitrile gloves and they are indeed stronger than latex ones. I even get to wash and reuse if it doesn't get torn. Thanks again.

Am about to do major reconstructive surgery on my vehicle, did you get those in Nigeria or from the U.S? If Nigeria what source? The kind that causes one to get down and dirty.

Car Talk › Re: Engine Oil And Atf Dilemma SOS Call by IdaraCHODB(m): 12:12am On Jul 29, 2015

IyaIode:
Hi everyone, I just bought a 2004 Ford escape v6 from a friend of mine, she has used the car in Nigeria for 3yrs. The problem here is I would like to change the fluids in the car but my friend does not know what fluids are presently in car as she can't reach the mechanic that helped her with the last changes 2yrs ago

The transmission fluid look light brown or brownish red, smells bad

The engine oil looks black and smells awful

No coolant in the radiator reservoir, just water with rusty color.

I would like to put the car back in top shape, I have been reading a lot on this section and elsewhere but I am still confused.

TRANSMISSION

1. The recommend atf is mercon and I have decided to settle for pureguard atf that is mercon, mercon lv and mercon v compatible.
My fear is do I do a complete flush of the oil smelling atf (slight burnt smell when it's hot) or do I ask my mechanic to do drain and fill with about 10 quarts

Engine Oil

I have settled for milemaster semi synthetic 5w20 I found on konga, I don't want to go for full synthetic because I don't know what the previous engine oil is.
Also should I use one of these engine oil flush, the more I read about the more confused I am
I also settled for motorcraft oil filler.

Coolant

I can't find the Gold color HOAT coolant so I have decided to used OAT green freeztone coolant that is non alcohol based.

I would like you guys to guys me right because all I know is what I read. Decotech, GAZZUZZ, Siena, lomomike,
Ikenna351, sultaan Delafruita, abatically IdaraCHODB, nurey. pls help

Will revert in the next 24 hours. Seen!

Car Talk › Re: Which Of These Minivan Should I Choose For Family by IdaraCHODB(m): 12:17am On Jul 28, 2015

bravolad:
For reliability & ruggedness, I would not go for Honda Odyssey. My best bet will be outside the listed options; a Toyota Picnic with three rows of two seats. It looks smaller but has a relatively good head and leg rooms. The rear seats are removable, providing a good cargo space. It handles well and has good fuel economy with an average of 31 mpg.

Parts are readily available, cheap and so do mechanics. Since cost is a major concern, both in maintenance and fuelling, you will not go wrong. It comes in manual & auto trannies.

The Mazda MPV has a 4 cylinder variant but looks bland. We use one as an office vehicle, no rear a/c vents to keep rear passengers cool. It is not rugged & drives sluggishly and equally underpowered. It is as spacious as the Odyssey.

Another good option would have been Toyota Sienna 1998 - 2000 but for the rear window that does wind down, which is a concern to you.

I have seen the Mazda MPV 4 cylinder and it was a manual, i do not know if the 4 cylinder also comes as an automatic, but nearly all the MPVs I have seen have been 6 cylinders

Car Talk › Re: Which Of These Minivan Should I Choose For Family by IdaraCHODB(m): 12:16am On Jul 28, 2015

clemz85:
op if that Volkswagen can withstand Nigeria high way
transportation, go for it

though it depends on if you want comfort or
durability and rigidness.

I don't know much about the sharan but here is what Wikipedia had to say about it quoting from http://www.reliabilityindex.com

Scoring 200 points on the United Kingdom Reliability Index, the Sharan is considered very unreliable when compared to the average vehicle score of 100, while a very reliable vehicle scores 60 or below. The average age and repair cost of the tested Sharan was 5,3 years and covered 63,546 miles.

If I were you, the choice would be really between the Mazda MPV and the Honda Odyssey ( and if you didn't mind the rear windows, the Toyota Sienna).

But then I don't fix cars for a living, I simply love cars, and when they give me trouble, I educate myself on them so I can have a reasonably intellectual exchange with whoever fixes it for me or if necessary and possible I fix the issue myself, which means that you may receive conflicting advice from those who fix cars, all the same, your choice, your life.

Car Talk › Re: Which Of These Minivan Should I Choose For Family by IdaraCHODB(m): 11:49pm On Jul 27, 2015

Between these

Mazda MPV 2000/2001 versus Toyota Sienna 1997 - 2000/2001-2002?

This is too close to call.

Let us just say its rather subjective.

Here is why:

Pick one depending on what you really want from from a minivan

Bigger van versus smaller van

Engine with known sludge issues versus engine without a history of sludge issues

Non-sliding doors versus sliding doors

Very smooth engine versus not so smooth power delivery

Sliding split rear seat versus folding rear seat

More expensive versus less expensive

Famed dependability versus grapevine tales of lack of reliability

impressive safety ratings versus not so terribly bad safety ratings

You may want to spend some time here:

1.http://www.thecarconnection.com/car-compare-results/mazda_mpv_2000-vs-toyota_sienna_2000

2.http://www.truedelta.com/Mazda-MPV/reliability-176/vs-Sienna-275

3.http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=805223

4. https://www.nairaland.com/1966298/mazda-mpv-vs-toyota-sienna

5.http://forum.mpvclub.com/viewtopic.php?t=708&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

Car Talk › Re: Which Of These Minivan Should I Choose For Family by IdaraCHODB(m): 11:34pm On Jul 27, 2015*

Here is what I would advise, not original to me, but second knowledge from those who know better?

Mazda MPV 2000/2001 versus Honda Odyssey 1999 - 2001?

2000 - 2001 Mazda MPV is a better vehicle than 1999 - 2001 Odyssey. If you must do the Odyssey route, then get the 2002 or later.

Here is why:
1.
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/12-minivan-comparisons/25276-get-rid-my-mpv-low-miles-ody-high-miles-print.html

2.
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/12-minivan-comparisons/43256-ody-vs-mazda-mpv-2002-a.html

3.
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/30598-just-purchased-2001-odyssey-81k-am-already-thinking-about-selling.html

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