IdaraCHODB's Posts
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Please research the year and models at carcomplaints and carproblemzoo websites respectively as well. You could even spend a few days on forums dedicated to both models to have a feel for the kinds of problems drivers of both encounter so as to prepare your mind for what you are going into. Ordinarily both cars are great, someone said avoid 2008 Honda Accord, I would say avoid it for a specific reason engine oil shortage factory defect and also while I don't drive one, many people have something uncomplimentary to say about its seats as far as being comfortable is concerned Also avoid 2006 Avalon according to carcompliants, The 2006 Toyota Avalon has the most overall complaints, & the most-reported problem is also with the 2006 Avalon for complete loss of engine oil with no warning light. will not post direct links, anti-spam bot is too temperamental and i have twice been a victim last week But come to think of it why single out Honda when even toyota appears to be having the same problem and it is reported by toyotaproblems website that several "Owners Are Burning Through 1 Quart of Oil Every 1,200 Miles" according to toyotaproblems website use the search string "excessive oil consumption" and "toyota problems" to find the link online. |
Yes it is! Maybe in the States or in Europe you can exist without one but here in Nigeria, in a place like Lagos or Abuja. To me it is. YMMV |
royallord1:Permit me to digress, but i had to pick on the bolded. I stand to be corrected but if one needs to buy shocks up to three times a year, then those must be Nigerian refurbished shocks aka tokunbo ( if you have seen how our boys breath life into dead shocks, no one will tell you to buy new since shocks are not just a comfort feature but a safety feature), I doubt, I really doubt that brand name shocks bought brand new would so degrade that they would be replaced up to three times even if they clocked between 50,000 miles to 100,000 miles in that interval which is a very big bet since the average driver does anywhere between 12,000 miles and 36,000 miles a year. Every naira spent buying brand new shocks is a naira well spent in terms of a price/value ratio and safety/cost ratio not to talk of time/money ratio and even peace of mind But its a no-brainer the prices you mention cannot buy new shocks! But to me this is yet another example where spending a little turns out to not so worthwhile in the long run. |
Oseremhen:5w20 more fuel economy less engine protection 5w30 more engine protection less fuel economy http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/general-tech-help-7/2008-2-4l-oil-weight-44300/ and if you have an oil shortage, don't be quick to blame engine problems due to switching to 5w30 or 5w20, its a manufacturer defect, so always carry extra oil http://www.carcomplaints.com/Honda/Accord/2008/engine/excessive_oil_consumption.shtml I most definitely do not recommend the 20w50, change it as soon as you can. If you fear sludge issues, change filters frequently as I described above, after some time you should be ok |
kingreign:Absolutely agree that the Philips appear brighter than the Sylvania (especially when comparing a Philips LED to a Sylvania Halogen, but that might not hold if you compare a Philips LED to a Sylvania HID/Xenon) but then that might be an optical illusion because both are street legal meaning they are 55/60 Watts respectively. |
olamibobo:Have you sorted out your issue? |
clino:do a scan? but i suspect timing chain issues? where is your location I can link you to someone who can help. |
lekahm:You can get it! It's not a money pit |
Kashif:Do the product selector thing, send me the part numbers so I can get them for you. Edited to fix the slip in English: You can choose between long life and brightness |
Buy original bulbs/lamps from the likes of Philips: http://www.usa.lighting.philips.com/products/automotive Philips claims their headlamps can outlast the car, lasting up to 12 years and come to think of it save for cost of importation, they don't cost a fortune! or Osram https://www.sylvania.com/en-us/products/automotive/Pages/default.aspx I have personally had to import them for my personal use, you might also have to Maybe you bought fake bulbs, who knows. Upgrade from Halogen to LED or maybe even HID or buy Halogen from known brand names, don't buy second hand bulbs or bulbs imported for mass sales maximum profit instead of for their quality! Use the product selector, input your car details and you are good to go There is one other major LED manufacturer from Taiwan, their name begins with an E, i can't recall and i am a bit too lazy to search for you. Just avoid all those cheap Chinese clones |
adanny01:Great to know, I was wondering how I could be of help. I hate it when mechanics try to make fools of car owners, isn't it afterall my car? And I am contracting you to do a fix, can it not be done on terms that are acceptable not just to the mechanic but also to the owner? So that informed my offer to bail you out! To give you some power over your machine |
adanny01:I am importing parts from the U.S this month, so if you can send me the link to the o-rings on amazon or wherever, I can get them for you, pay when you get them, but if its a complete rebuild kit, then you will need to make some commitment. |
grafikii:noted |
ol2012:I have noticed that when you send too many PMs, that your IP address gets blocked, so why not create a disposable email so people who want to contact you can do so, disposable to protect your privacy and also from spammers. The disposable can forward to your main email if you so desire, or you can deal direct from the disposable. |
adanny01:After burning through a couple of transmissions and noticing that my Dexron III and later Dexron VI ATF would literally turn brown within less than 1000 miles of highly spirited driving and black within 5,000 miles, I decided to do detective work. Infact, am still pained that, I literally wasted over 24 quarts of Dexron VI (which is supposed to last between 50,000 and 100,000 miles) and still lost the last transmission. Here is what I learnt: My oil cooler lines were consistently bypassed, no wonder every time I tried to do a return cooler line drain, nothing would come out. I was literally frying my transmission every time I drove. I decided to drop and replace my current transmission all by myself. I studied the factory manual, Youtube videos, referred to my ALLDATADIY subscription and took lots of notes and spent a fortune on tools. Unlike a situation in which after every such transmission replacement, I would face electrical issues, because of mistreatment of transmission electricals, the vehicle has had no issues. No leaks, no electrical issues, nothing at all. I really agree with the fact that Mechanics dont really take their time to do a thorough job. I would only add the qualifier some if not most. I even changed the rear main oil seal and permanently fixed the problem they consistently left behind after each transmission change, leaking engine oil, and even used torque wrenches to ensure the bolts and nuts were within factory tolerances. I recall having a problem with a door that would not close properly and the mechanic was fiddling with the seatbeat mechanism against clearly written instructions on the body, I had to plead with him not to do it, and I took over and did what he was trying to do with force gently, I don't recall the name of the part. I don't blame people like tumababa who say if I am not around, you can't touch my pride (aka ride)! |
Given the appearance of Mobil 1 5w30 ESP http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_ESP_Formula_5W-30.aspx in some Mobil petrol stations I wanted to find out how it ranks with other engine oils on the ILSAC scale and in particular to another product from the same stable, Mobil 1 5w30 Extended Performance http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_Extended_Performance.aspx which I currently use. Here is what I found out. First of all what is ILSAC? What is ILSAC? International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee, is formed in 1992 by AAMA (American Automobile Manufacturers Association, representatives of DaimlerChrysler Corporation, Ford Motor Company and General Motors Corporation) and JAMA (Japan Automobile Manufacturers Association) to define the need, parameters, licensing and administration of lubricant specifications. Together with the Tripartite system (API, SAE and ASTM) the formed EOLCS, the Engine Oil Licensing and Certification System. ILSAC oils often carry the API Service Symbol (Donut) including the Energy Conserving designation and/or API Certification Mark (Starburst). ILSAC GF-5 Introduced in October 2010 for 2011 and older vehicles, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons and turbochargers, more stringent sludge control, improved fuel economy, enhanced emission control system compatibility, seal compatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85. Note:- This is the standard applicable to Mobil1 Extended Performance 5W-30 ILSAC GF-6 The ILSAC GF-6 specification is currently in development and will probably be divided into two sub-specifications. ILSAC GF-6A will be fully backward compatible with ILSAC GF-5 but would offer better fuel economy, better engine protection and improved performance while maintaining durability. ILSAC GF-6B would deliver similar performance as ILSAC GF-5A but will allow lower viscosity oils like xW-16, taking advantage of the fuel economy benefits offered by the new SAE 16 viscosity grade. For more information check out gf-6.com. The SAE 16 Viscosity Grade On April 1, 2013 the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) introduced a new viscosity grade called SAE 16. This is a new high temperature viscosity grade hence it's not 16W just simply 16 or SAE 16. This is the lowest high temerature SAE engine oil viscosity grade yet, replacing SAE 20 in this role. The introduction of this viscosity grade is another step towards motor oils providing better and better fuel economy and such oils will most likely to be first recommended by companies that emphasize fuel economy oils (e.g. Ford, Honda). When the first SAE 16 oils will appear (likely as 0W16 and 5W16 oils) they will only be suitable to be used in vehicles where the engine is designed to operate with such a low viscosity oil. Just as 5W20 and 0W20 oils these oils will also be unsuitable to be used in older engine designs since it would not provide sufficient wear protection on operating temperature. Note: 5w30 is a better oil than 5w20 as far as engine protection is concerned, but 5w20 is a better oil than 5w20 as far as fuel economy is concerned, if your manufacturer recommends either (or if the same engine in another car uses 5w20) I would go for the 5w30, but if fuel economy is your concern do the 5w20, but i would recommend not to drive the vehicle too hard, because extreme oil pressure and extreme oil temperatures are bad for engine longevity. The number 16 itself does not have a special meaning it does not point at any specific oil property, it is only the name of the viscosity grade. SAE decided to choose a number that breaks the must-be-divisible-by-5 rule to avoid any mix-up with the winter viscosities. SAE 15 would have been easy to confuse with 15W (even though the very same problem did not influence SAE's decision when SAE 20 was introduced). With the introduction of SAE 16 the limit on 100 °C viscosity for SAE was changed from 5.6 cSt to 6.9 cSt minimum. SAE 20 oils didn't make use of this interval so far and the limits for SAE 16 partially extend to this segment. For an oil to be of SAE 16 viscosity grade its viscosity on 100 °C must be between 6.1 and 8.2 mm2/s and its HTHS viscosity must be at least 2.3 mPa*s. The official SAE viscosity grades are now 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W, 16, 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60. SAE is considering introducing the 12, 8 and 4 viscosity grades when there will be demand by the car manufacturers. This also outlines the likely direction of the lubricant development: oils will become ever thinner but their advanced chemistry must make sure that they still provide the same or better protection as their older, thicker counterparts did. At least Mobil1 5w30 ESP is API SM/SN graded AND meets the API CF quality standard, so it is apparently equivalent to Mobil1 5w30 Extended Performance. I have not found an ILSAC grading for it though! But since ILSAC oils often carry the API Service Symbol (Donut) including the Energy Conserving designation and/or API Certification Mark (Starburst), I guess I am sort of covered if I decide to try the ESP. I am still looking for data on drain intervals with the ESP will post if and when I find same Sources: 1. http://www.oilspecifications.org/ilsac.php 2. http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/sae-16-viscosity-grade.php 3. http://gf-6.com/
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skj1377:Will you ever be able to drive anything other than a v8? Maybe you should get a v12 next. I like your style. Speed doesn't need to mean crashing unless there is no control and no commonsense. I personally must admit that the self-control part can be difficult at times, many a driver has almost crashed because of being provoked by a lesser being (correct that to mean a less powerful car acting like it has dusted a much more powerful vehicle) and not keeping his emotions in check. |
grafikii:10oz? 15oz or 32oz? |
Does speed kill? No because anything faster than zero is speed. What kills is speed without control. One can drive fast but drive well, one can also drive slow but bad. One can also drive fast and bad, and one can also drive slow but good. If you doubt it why do we have accidents driving slower than 100. I thought all accidents occur when you drive faster than 100. But that is not the case, the best drivers know that its not how fast you can move, its how fast you can stop. So they may drive fast, but apply common sense and slow down when necessary and speed up when its sensible and reasonable. It does not make sense to drive fast all the time and it does not make sense to drive slow all the time either. Its striking a balance between when to move slow and when to move fast and being guided by the principle that life is a gift, so at all times, the key driving principle is to do nothing that puts life or limb at stake. Its not merely a matter of driving at 100 or below. That argument is too simplistic to be sensible because there have been documented fatal accidents and accidents causing disability when the speed was less than 100. http://www.speedskills.co.uk/images/topgear.pdf Speed does not kill, speed without control and common sense kills. |
How much does it cost to clear an S-Class 550 or 600 if the model year is 2008 to 2013? |
chukel:Good to know, some people install local leather seats without provision for the operation of side airbags, from all that I have read, it is a pretty dangerous thing to do, hence I had to ask the question about the dash. Good to know, seen the pictures. And the guy is good, so many greats talents outside the big name places like Lagos, Abuja and Port Harcourt. I am going to save his number in case I might be in that city sometime, I'd love to see him |
chukel:Lovely! Any effect on airbag deployment should the need arise on impact? |
GAZZUZZ:Not just any tech, someone like GAZZUZZ ![]() |
Trac:Am bring in a few cartons by month end of Techron concentrate, so buzz me by September 7, 2015 if interested Cartons of 20oz Techron Concentrate Plus Fuel System Cleaner are now in Nigeria, buzz me if you need same |
haykay2005:If you still need it am bringing in a few cartons by month end! |
sooperrescue:Overloading the vehicle means increased strain on the transmission. Greater heat is produced and nothing does a transmission hate than overheat. Overheating a transmission means failure is just a matter of time. A transmission can overheat when the rest of the engine does not which means that the indicator on the dash will not announce that there is a problem Not to talk of increasing ATF cooling capacity |
sooperrescue:You de chop fish? This kind advice sef! Satire abi? |
BLAJE:Sorry I missed this, hope you were sorted out. If not, another shipment comes in September! |
Has anyone upgraded his brake fluid from DOT 3 to DOT 5.1? Any perceivable difference? I mean that which you can feel from the driver's seat? ![]() |
Macmilla: Reasonable calculation Reasonable conclusion, my adjusted advice especially when money is scarce is change the filter instead those 5 times and top up rather than replace the entire oil. For anyone reading this thread in future! You will still achieve the same result but with less expenditure! |
grafikii:I don't recommend the stop leak, should I still get it for you? On the other hand, I know the lubeguard can do wonders! Advise on quantity and if you agree with my position above! |

