₦airaland Forum

yak:
guy, u are sure this isnt film tricks?

Onezie:
Hmmmm! God please bring peace in edo state

Siena:
[color=Blue]It's a common misconception that a V6 engine will use more fuel than an I4.

Fuel consumption is determined by:

Engine capacity.
Internal friction.
Emission level.
Vehicle weight.
Transmission type.

The most determining factor is the engine capacity. This is is the actual swept volume of the engine, the cylinder bores the pistons operate in. It stands to reason the larger the capacity, the more fuel is required to feed it. Sometimes though, the engine is designed to run lean (lean-burn technology) and so a 2.2L engine MAY use LESS fuel than a 1.8L version with standard fuel injection. Design is key.

Internal friction will also affect fuel mileage. This is where there is more resistance to rotation and piston movement. More resistance will require x amount more of fuel.

Emission levels are becoming increasingly stringent. We're currently on Euro 5, though 6 is just being introduced. The lower the emission level number, the more fuel the engine will use.

The myths that a V6 engine will use more fuel than an I4 are just that - myths. The main assumption here is that a V6 engine has a larger capacity than an I4. This is not always the case.

A Mazda 1.8 comes as a V6 in the '97 gMazda 323F. It WILL use LESS fuel than a 2.2 I4 in the '98 Toyota Camry. Euro 2 Vs Euro 2.
A Porsche 3.0 comes as an I4 in the '91 Porsche 944 S2. It WILL use MORE fuel than a 3.2 V6 FSI in a 2006 Audi A4. Euro 3 Vs Euro 5.
A Jeep 4.0 comes as an I6 in the '99 Wrangler. It WILL use MORE fuel than a 3.7 V8 40V in a 1999 Audi A8 Quattro. Euro 3 Vs Euro 3.

The above are just 3 out of millions of variables. I will cite another example to do with weight.

A '91 E39 BMW 518i (1.8L I4) WILL use MORE fuel than a '91 E39 BMW 520i (2.0 I6). Both Euro 3, but the smaller 1.8 4 cylinder in a relatively heavy car will be working harder, and require MORE fuel as a result. The bigger 2.0 6 cylinder will have an easier time, and require LESS fuel. This is one of the reasons BMW dropped the 1.8 engine for the 1992 model year in the E39. For those who allow their mechanics to yank out their engines in favour of a smaller version, take note!

Transmission type will also determine how much 2 similar engines will use fuel.
[/color]

9icetoo:
you heard. hearsay has kept Nigerians largely in the dark. I drive a diesel, its not as quiet as a 2015 Avalon but its not as noisy as a keke napep. my friends e90 is even quieter. you wouldn't know until he revs it. the distinct diesel clatter is there but subdued. diesels don't really need a lot of maintenance. in this day and age of scanners, you have a tool to aid your mechanic service your diesel engine. the most I have done to my diesel is clean my intake manifold, egr and turbo. all were straight forward and done by a none diesel mechanic. I showed him what to do and that was it. my diesel doesn't smoke anymore after cleaning out my turbo and blanking my egr.
I can get 1100 kilometres on a 55 litre tank before I refuel if I do only highway driving and 700 kilometers if I drive only in the city.
avoid diesels with dpf for now though.

bigt2:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzEuNUGO2bY

HRich:
This one he has spent close to 7days in Nigeria hope all his well.

onimine:
Please I need help with the belt for my 2010 Toyota corolla. Changed the Ac compressor to a manual toks compressor and since then its one belt problem or the other

cocoduck:
I have a Factory service manual for this car, I will send to you the link for the torrent download, both for this car and many other cara. When I get home in the evening I will strive to remember, and one more thing, check to see if the car is still with the owners manual, if not download and study it very well.

Siena:
[color=Blue]Let me break this down, make things simple.

For starters, inserting suppression devices between the spring coils makes them longer. This actually INCREASES stress on the shorter damper pistons (which have limited travel compared to the springs).

Suspension springs work in tandem with telescopic dampers. Both components are matched for correct operation. Insert any form of suppression between the spring coils, and sure, the spring effectively becomes longer, lifting the vehicle, and REDUCING the likelihood of the underside of the vehicle making contact with the road when driving over gullys, and into potholes.

There is however a downside. The ride height is now greater, the springs compress LESS. The springs will be stiffer. The dampers do require full compression to work, which is why they are matched in the first instance. Less compression will result in a harsher, bouncy ride over rough roads. With this combination, the dampers are useless. The ride will be the same with brand new or blown dampers, because they simply stop working is they don't compress fully. They will have more rebound, which is no good. You might as well take the dampers off, and bin them.

Hit an unexpected bump or pothole, and the resultant jolt will lift the wheels off the road. Try imagining this occurring mid-bend, and the vehicle will NOT go where the wheels are pointing.

The only way to safely raise a vehicle is to get longer springs AND matched dampers, so dampers with longer pistons. There is no other way, which is why most manufacturer's have different spring / damper combination as options (Sport, Standard, Heavy Duty etc).

Anything else is just a botch, plain and simple. [/color]

hungryboy:
1)NIGHT BUKA- selling garri and soup, rice or fried yam, plantain,potatoes and fish in the evenings

2)NIGHT CABBIE- Driving taxi in the evenings after work

3)NIGHT ASHAWO- e dey self explanatory nah,just find one roadside were dey always dey busy stand, one money miss road go come talk price carry you go hotel go cure konji

Belvinho:
Hello Gazzuzz,

Below is the scan code as generated;
1. P0301
2. P0302
3. P0303
4. P0304
5. P0305
6. P0306
7. P0780
8. P0135

Belvinho:
Hello Tech Gurus,

I'm typing this due to desperation and frustration. My car which is a 2001 3.0L Honda Accord V6 has been guzzling fuel like no man's business. Prior to this, I was getting 270 miles to a full tank which was quite far from the fuel economy I should have been getting. This became worse 2weeks ago when my Check Engine Light started blinking, my fuel economy degraded to 150 miles to a full tank (64 litres)

The car was scanned and discovered misfire in all 6 cylinders. The plugs and coil were changed as well the Throttle Position Sensor. The nozzles were also serviced and the movement of the car which was sluggish returned to normal.

All codes were cleared before I took the car out of the workshop. 2 days later, the Check Engine light started blinking again with the fuel consumption even becoming worse. I now do about 120 miles to a full tank which makes me buy fuel almost on a daily basis. The car is my major source of transportation as I usually resume work very early in the morning when I'm running morning shifts and close very late when running the evening.

I'm open to all forms of advice as that of my mechanic hasn't helped one bit.

Cheers

GAZZUZZ:
I learned the hard way, after 2 compressors 1 condenser I went all kazeemy on the car. Sometimes you incur loss to save face.