₦airaland Forum

Baabu320:
Go to access bank open a don account its free you dont need any euro to do that...fund your dom with 10425€ and transfer it into ur fintiba

note: the funding will take u 2 days cuz you can only fund in euro equivalent to $10,000 so in the best way fund 8k the first day and 2425 the second day and you can transfer it as soon as you complete the funding on thesame second day.

hi, please confirm: " Dom account is free, you do not need to deposit any euro"

thanks.

Nuella45:
VISA TESTIMONY:
Interview Date= February 18th 2019
Aproval Mail= 30 july 2019
Visa= 15th August 2019.

ALL THANKS BE TO GOD.

saying congrats kinda belittles your trials while waiting... you have the patience of Job and a large dose intestinal fortitude. I wish you the very best and will remember your testimony when its my turn to wait & pray!!

sassy92:
In my opinion, based on my A1 knowledge of German, NO. The 30 episodes uploaded do not cover everything you need to know at A1 level. Although I'm not done with the podcast (I'm at episode fortysomething). But I like the podcast because it helped improve my listening skills plus the story line is very interesting.

I think I'll also add Nicos Weg (A1). Its a 2 hr movie aimed at teaching A1 German. I was skeptical about adding it at first because its completely in German so beginners will get lost (talking from my experience). However when I finished A1 and rewatched it I was finally flowing. So it'll be good for those who already have basic knowledge of German.

please upload what you have presently, we can always catch up with the rest later.

thanks for volunteering the material...God send helpers to you at your point of need too!

freakky:
By using form A.... That way your accent will be funded using your normal bank account

some few pages back, someone gave the not so pleasant experiences with using form A. it is by far simpler and cheaper according to him to just buy euros from an aboki, verify the notes at the bank ,and effect a transfer after the euros are certified OK.

banks that will allow you to transfer the money at once in bulk include access bank, stanbic & zenith. let's learn from other peoples experiences.

Horlaarsco:
Thanks a lot for your help ill check the manual in the morning

you're welcome

Horlaarsco:
I havent gotten the cables sizes

ideally, you are to get PV flex cables. they are of fine strands and bend easily. depending on the distance from which you are running your cables, this type if cable might be quite expensive.Also, cable sizes are determined by operating voltage of your panels/batteries, the permissible voltage drop(1-5%), the continuous current the conductor with bear and very importantly, the distance of cable run.


so read your controller manual, what's the largest size of cable its terminals can admit. then buy the type of copper cables normally sold. try and avoid the chinko cables that have thicker insulations with smaller gauge of copper conductor in it. This website will assist you.

https://www.solar-wind.co.uk/info/dc-cable-sizing-tool

How To Use The Cable Size Calculator
1 - Enter percentage cable loss acceptable
[normally approx 2 or 3%].
2 - Enter system voltage.
3 - Enter max amps to be carried by the
cable [amps = watts / voltage].
4 - Enter max length of cable run required
5 - Click "Calculate" - results are shown i
the closest standard metric & AWG cable
sizes.

for your project with 2nos 150w panels, the max current you can get is:
2*Isc ( from nameplate rating at the back of your panels) I'm guessing about 9amps * 2 = 18a or so. 18amps at 18v (Vmp) for X Metres...
That's the data you need to input in that website.

I do not know how far your controller is from your panels, I would say use 10mm cable minimum to run the pair of wires from the parallel panels. 16mm would be better if your controller terminals will admit them and you can afford it.

16mm should be okay for the cables from your controller to your batteries. I am assuming they are close together, and about 4yards should do (2yards for +ve & 2 yards for -ve)

hope this helps.

Horlaarsco:
The panels should be in parallel so as to still retain 12v voltage.. Its a 12v system

yes, both your inverter and batteries are 12v, charging source must be within range for the kind if controller you're using (pwm)

Horlaarsco:
The red and black is to its respective place on the battery right? While those small red black green to socket incase want to charge the battery with like power source

AM i right?

yes the thicker red & black cables are the ones you connect to your batteries.

tag smaller ones are connected to a plug and uses with any utility socket to charge the batteries too, in addition to the solar panels.

nice one

Horlaarsco:
I have been carry out the research the connection problem that confused me is the inverter wouldnt want any issues with it thats why im asking

1. your battery terminals will be your bus bar

2. have you bought the cables you need? get appropriate cable lugs that are roughly tag size of your cable, less gaps in the cable lug, the better the contacts. (p.s do NOT attempt to solder the copper cables to the cable lugs).

3. cable lugs are the cable terminations you see on the follow come cables on the inverter.

4. attach cable lugs to ONE END of a pair of cables. strip 1cm of the cable, insert into a lug, and use a heavy duty crimping tool (or just smash flat with a hammer! local style). attempt to pull out the cable, it must stay firm. tape around the crimped lug up till just before hole in it.

5. mark one with cables you just crimped with red tape to designate the positive or use masking tape + marker pen.

6. screw in the stripped, uncrimped end of red positive wire above to the battery positive port on the charge controller( usually 3rd terminal from the left, if controller is facing you).

7. screw in stripped uncrimped end of the black negative cable from the pair you just lugged in step 4, to the negative port of the charge controller

8 connect the positive red wire from the inverter and the lugged end of the cable you just marked as positive to the +ve battery terminal.

9. connect the negative black wire from the inverter and the crimped end of the cable you marked as negative to the -ve battery terminal.
( there might be a small spark while doing this, do not be alarmed, it is okay).

10. your charge controller should light up by now and auto detect the battery voltage. red the controller manual for more info.

11. for connecting your 2nos 150w panels in parallel, if you have appropriate y-mc4 connectors, use them. otherwise, cut off the both PV +ve cables like 2" before the connectors and join both positive cables together.

12. repeat the same for both negative PV -ve cables. remember to join wires with a tight and strong bond. be generous with the electrical tape.


13. connect the stripped single +ve cable from your inverter to your controller PV +very terminal or to your PV breaker if you are using one. the cable from the other end of the breaker goes to the controller

14. the single negative from your parallel panels goes straight to your controller PV -ve port. after 1-2seconds the controller should give a reading on your panels. the battery voltage is 1st, then the ambient temperature, then the panel charging current. Your controller manual should give the rest info.

hope this helps you. any further questions, feel free to post them here. ask questions... easiest way to learn.

dragnet:
are you not supposed to be doing a project? you should do some research, some of the questions you're asking shouldn't be asked by someone carrying out a project in power.

this is also research too! lol. or you think.his lecturer will.be so kind as to be this patient with him?

at least he is eager to learn and he is most importantly asking questions, and that is how we all learn...
cheers

builderperry:
I would like to ask a few questions and I would appreciate if I can get answers

1. Which cheap hotel can I stay close to the embassy and how much is it?

2. Can I get AM from Hamburg before funding?

3. is BA important to get AM

4. How can I fund without having a dom account?

5. How long after the interview is late for funding?

Thank you.

1. bayland suites - obalende (8-10k) & sappers lodge - inside bonny cantonment (5-8k)

2. AM - Approval Mail. this is issued by the embassy not your school. the school only sends you Admission letter (AL).

3. you may get an approval email from the embassy without funding, but the visa will not be in your passport EXCEPT you have sent proof of the BA(Blocked Account) via email to the embassy or your sponsorship letter (SL) is verified & approved.

4.it is best you open a Dom account or find someone trusted to transfer the funds for you. that is how the banking system works. naira equivalents are not transferred only euros. the reason why it is advised you are the owner of the Dom account is that, if funds are to be refunded should your visa be denied, it will only be sent to the originating account. you can register online and FUND the account AFTER your interview, it probably takes 48-72hrs to reflect. then you send your transfer confirmation to the email provided by the embassy.

5. easy question: how bad do you want to leave for DE? ASAP right? then fund as soon as possible. if you delay and the embassy calculates that their administrative processes to get your visa will conclude AFTER your enrollment date at the university, you will be denied. the gurus may weigh in on the question too.

best of luck & Godspeed.

benjamin139:
Had my interview today 14-08-2019
Vo: what can you tell me about economics

Vo:What can you tell me about marthin Luther
Me : I exained
Vo: what are the disadvantages and disadvantages of his theories?

hi, don't sweat the 1k, your visum is enough compensation. Lol.

she asked you about martin Luther, the reformer and his 99 bulls? like seriously?!?
for someone who studied economics that was to throw you off guard! thank God we are well read to know who he was!
AM Fall on you ASAP!!

microgiant:
Pictures
1. Used battery
2. New batteries
3. Battery name plate
4. used battery and AC DC chargers (middle man suggested we test them, because it was noticed that some chargers were faulty.)

hi, is the link you used to buy the new batteries still viable?

what cost are they now?

thanks

ceaser:
Thanks baba.

See ehn, that thing, I was literarily struggling with it for the better part of yesterday. I guess being pressed for time also contributed to the problem. I have only yesterday and today to get things right before I'm off again. Yesterday I burnt off another 12 volt digital temperature controller that
I only hope those local computer accessories shops stock PC fans that I can work with cos I only have one left now, in case it also gets blown

hi, best of luck tinkering with the set up. kindly post the eventual solution you used. can you also post a pix of how your digital temperature controller looks like and where you purchased it?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Your observations are not incorrect - I am just seeking a plausible explanation - a universal answer as it were.

The things I suspect are

1) Watt meter calibration and internal operating design. Watt- meter is normally expected to read approximately same regardless of operating voltage.

2) A sort of measurement bias if you keep unplugging and plugging the watt meter to make your measurements.

It is dangerous to assume that you could use a larger load on an inverter simply because it has higher nominal voltage. A 1kw rated inverter should handle nearly 1kw whether it is 12v, 24v or 48v. The size of transformer, quality and gauge of windings and other internal components would go a long way to determine what load could be safely borne. I always advise temperature derating of inverter load at a minimum - for Asian origin inverters people usually do max 70% of the inverter rated capacity.

Mr Niyi. I think your explanation fits the phenomenon more. before such abnormal readings of the same device can be accepted, I would prefer a control experiment.

same setup, 2 different watt meters. most likely calibration issues. I believe the wattage of a device at any voltage remains the same, otherwise ohms law becomes void. Energy cannot be created nor destroyed. we only have to account for losses in the system.

all generators I know have a slight voltage drop with increase in load. so a generator is not a stable power supply to base such calculations on.

the issue of a 24v 1kva inverter powering up a load that the 12v version will not power is a not valid as components are different and the surge capacity of both inverters have not been verified.

A 1000w load showing 500w on the wattmeter while run on a 24v system? very weird. it is the current that should be halved not the overall power.

personally, I once had a wattmeter connected when phcn decided to give fluctuating voltages. the wattage of my TV remained the same as the voltage & current kept up with their inverse relationship. all the way from 350v to 165v.
that's my take.

ceaser:
wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2b1050d5HVGS6C">https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32954335647.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2b1050d5HVGS6C

Peeps please what do you suggest?

hi, why don't you buy a 12v Dc fan & a GOTV 12v adapter. connect the adapter to output of inverter, then place fan directly blowing into the inverter. that's what I did with the 3kva VIL inverter whose fan only kicks in at 65°c. I connected the above and placed it to blow air into perforated side vents near the inverter transformer. fan only works when inverter is working. the inverter is much cooler now.
OR
most fans in these portable inverters are evacuators not blowers. the fan is not powerful enough to evacuate heat build up hence increase in internal temperature. can you change direction of flow of the fan, so it sucks outside air and blows over internal components rather than evacuate it? Just reverse/flip placement of the fan. ensure some gaps exist in the casing to allow hot air flow through.

[quote author=ojeysky post=81138214]Yes it's a double pole breaker[1], so the PV cable and SPD cable goes into it. As to the earth, I have not yet connected that, I plan link it to the earth point of the CC(the CC is already connected to my home earthing system).

1] Yes I currently just place the SPD and DC breakers on the CC will hang it somewhere later to make it neat.[/quote

hi, the SPD is only effective when the earthing terminal is used, as it is now, its on holiday.lol. everyone starts out small, once you tidy up the wires, you're good to go.
cheers

aorseer:
Thanks lexi28 you have been so helpful. I appreciate you
Pls can someone suggest vendors that I can contact? Kinda new to this thread

you're welcome.

a suggestion : you can contact a fellow student Horlaarsco who posted above, he is going to Alaba on Wednesday as he posted. if you ask him nicely, he can oblige you the favor.

depending on your budget, you could search for monikers like JUO, Zeestone for quotes, other vendors freely post their goods and prices a few pages back. some ogas like Mr Niyi, Mr Pranil , GeorgeD1, may have a few odds and ends from their spare stores for you. just ask nicely. there are other core enthusiasts who could be of help. send out your request, if there are items you cannot get or if your budget is tight.

best of luck, keep us updated on your progress. wish you heavens best.

ojeysky:
I do not have a bus bar but what I have done in my case was to shove both the PV and SPD cables in the DC breaker input, I don't know if the SPD will still do it's work with such setup.

is your breaker a double pole breaker? if yes, then the SPD connection should be made to the breaker inputs.
if no, the breaker positive is OK, just find a common negative to connect the SPD negative to, preferably not directly at the controller terminals or most likely at the battery negative terminals (depending on the connections you used).
the ground terminal of the SPD should go to the common ground/earth you have. if you do not have a good ground or earthing connection, the SPD is pretty much useless.
if you got all connections correct, even without a bus bar, it will still work.
cheers

Easylearner:
mctfopt
Thanks alot...

For the spd, have seen online that is connected like a breaker but no off and on switch.. does it still need to be Connected to ground.

first of all. confirm that the earthing in the house or location is OK.
the SPD has 3 terminals, +ve, -ve and ground.
if you have a common connection for the DC side of things, like a bus bar. you connect a wire from the positive side to the Positive terminal of the SPD, then connect a wire from the negative bus bar to the negative terminal of the SPD, then connect a wire from the ground terminal of the SPD to a working earth connection spot.

the bus bar makes this connection easier, but it you do not have one, locating the common points maybe confusing for some.

that's all that is to it. if a surge occurs on the DC side of the system, the SPD "diverts" that and prevents the proverbial white smoke from your controller.

aorseer:
Thanks for your response. The DC fan is a 12v turbo fan. I guess it's 24watts

hi,
are you sure? the volume of air pushed by this 24w fan, is it adequate for the job required as depicted in the diagrams shown?

anyway if that's wattage of the fan, then the rest is easy.

load 24w/12v
load current consumed:24/12=2amps
1nos 24w/12v DC fan
1nos 150w panel
1nos 10a pwm controller
1nos 65ah/12v battery

calculations:
duration of load :12hrs
Ah consumed : 12hrs *24w/12v =24ah
depth of discharge on battery: 24/65*100= 36% (good). 2 days autonomy.

panel current : 150/18v = 8.33 (typical value)
you expect practically 70% of this value = 5.83a

C/10 rate (optimal charge rate) for the battery is :65ah/10h = 6.5a. 5.83a is pretty close to that. due to the fact that you said your location is in the north, you can expect better.

typical costs:
150w panel >= 25k, chinko panels are cheaper. some for as low as 19k.
10a pwm charge controller (generic brand):<= 5-7k
65ah battery: 25-47k. (long brand is the expensive one, Chinese batteries cost less.)
24w DC fan: Alaba is your best bet.

it is a student project, you are required to show working proof of concept. no need to spend over the top for high end gadgets.

cheers

hope this helps. any other questions, post them too. best of luck.

once again I hope vendors here can give you a student discount. lol.

aorseer:
Good day house, I am building a solar dryer as my final year project but I have the following issues
(a) I don't have an idea of the size of panel and battery that can feed the dc fan
(b) the cost of the panel, solar charge controller, dc battery and dc fan
(c) I will appreciate if I can get somebody in Lagos that can supply the components to me as I live in the northern part of the country
Attached is a sketch of the dryer thanks

hi, FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANT QUESTION:
what is wattage of your DC fan? the answer determines how you will proceed!
cheers.

mctfopt:
I'll try to answer this as briefly as possible.

1: The circuit breaker size is dependent on what you are protecting. Eg use 125 percent of the continuous load (maximum current expected to last for three hours or more). For instance, if your maximum load current drawn is 10a, 125% of it is 12.5A, then in that application, you can use a 16A breaker.

2. Your surge rating is usually rated in kilo amps (kA). Because most SPDs on the market use a metal-oxide varistor (MOV), if a 10kA SPD experiences a 10kA surge, it means it'll use 100% of its capacity and will usually display red on the display window which means it is due for replacement. In the market, the higher the kA value of SPD, the higher the cost. So you can just go with either a 20kA capacity or 40kA. Ensure you have a good earth before installing an SPD.

3. You can still add a fuse if you can afford one. The more the protective device, the better your system. Just ensure it is rated accordingly so you don't overfuse (in which case the fuse won't melt on fault current) or under size(in which case the fuse constantly melts even when carrying the normal current).

4. It is not compulsory to use a battery balancer, but good ones which is adequately installed have proven to elongate battery lifespan. If you want to put one, ensure you do at the start of the installation and the battery is of the same make and age.

5. In theory, you can connect an infinite number of batteries in parallel. In practical, the more the number of batteries connected in parallel, the bigger the cross section of cables used to handle the higher amperage involved. So you can safely have more than three parallel as long as you obey the rule of the paralleling batteries and ensure the right size of cable is in use.

If you are in doubt, always check in with professionals around your area as it is never good to dabble in things of this nature which may be dangerous if not properly done.

Experts in the house are free to weigh in. I'm not an expert

nice, I tried to cut out part of your comment to save space, nah, it didn't work. its all on point. starred.

Horlaarsco:
Hello guys please my final year project is setting up a solar system for a modern office.. Please anyone who can put me through on doing this i plan to get the components on monday

1. 1kva inverter
2. 250 or 300 waats solar panel
3. PWM Charge Controller
4. 100Amps battery

is there anything else to get and how do i set it up and are they all compatible with each other i dont mind a contact of someone i can buy from ..

CONNECTION.
1. determine where your panels are to be located. try to find a place not shaded by trees or tall buildings.

2. the panel is usually tilted to incline at 15° and should ideally face south, since we are in the northern hemisphere. the incline allows for runoff of water & dust, and also to optimal capture of sunlight

3. if being placed on a roof, its better to mount on a rack, rather than tie the panels with binding wire to roofing sheet nails. aluminium profiles cost about 2k per length, I think one & half length should do the trick. they also sell shelf tacks for like #30/pc to secure the profile to the roof. you will need a strip of flash band or silicon sealant ( flash band costs about 200-300/yard. silicon sealant costs about 1k/PC)

3. if its pole mounted, you will require 2.5" black pipe, for 4 stands, 1 length 2"*2" black pipe for cross arms and braces to tack/screw down the panels to the cross arms.

4. try to ensure the panels are located as close as possible to where your charge controller will be.

5. connect your 3panels in parallel. guess you know how that is done.

6. lead cables to where controller is.

7. mount controller on a wall, use small size MDF as backdrop or small piece of meter board wood. affix controller to the wood.

8. try to find a well ventilated space to place batteries, controller & inverter. they are best to be in close proximity.

9. your inverter should come with dc wires terminated with cable lugs. get another pair of cables, terminate them with cable lugs. identify the positive with red tape.

10. ensure that the chosen controller has input terminals large enough to accept battery cable size. if not, downsize your cables to largest that can be accepted by your controller, usually 16mm for the small cheap chinko controllers.

11. FOR A SIMPLE SCHOOL PROJECT: connect in this sequence. pair of wires from batteries to controller first, ( your controller should auto detect the battery voltage), then incoming pair of cables from PV to controller. BREAKERS HAVE BEEN OMITTED

12. if you decide to connect breakers, then connection is:
inverter - battery
battery - battery breaker - controller
* there will be 2 cable lugs on each battery terminal
then
PV - PV breaker - controller
note: a breaker is connected on the positive line if using a single pole breaker.

that is basically how it goes.

hope you get the flow.

best of luck!!

Horlaarsco:
Hello guys please my final year project is setting up a solar system for a modern office.. Please anyone who can put me through on doing this i plan to get the components on monday

1. 1kva inverter
2. 250 or 300 waats solar panel
3. PWM Charge Controller
4. 100Amps battery

is there anything else to get and how do i set it up and are they all compatible with each other i dont mind a contact of someone i can buy from ..

hi, congrats you have come this far.

1. your inverter and batteries have operating voltage of 12v I assume?

2. the 250-300w panel operates best at 24v.

3. your pwm is most likely a 12-24v auto controller.

4. if the inverter is confirmed as operating on 12v, I suggest you buy 150-160w panels instead.
5. if you are using only one 100ah battery, optimum charging current (C/10) is 100/10= 10amps. your panels must produce MORE than this, taking into account efficiency of the panel and insulation levels at your location.

6. the maximum current from a 150w panel is less than 10a, about 7-8amps depending on the brand. so you will need more than just one panel. taking onto account, your location which determines hours of insolation available and probable time of use of the inverter ( most likely daytime - since it is an office)...you may need at least 2-3nos of 150w panel.

7. panels are oversized to subsidize the current required by daytime connected loads, like office equipment. this method prevents entire current to my exceed safe discharge rate of the batteries.

8. safe discharge rate is max C/20 of the total capacity of the batteries installed. e.g 100ah has a safe discharge rate of 100/20= 5amps DC. at 12v that is a equivalent to a load of 12*5= 60w.

9. so in summary, you will require
1nos 1kv/12v inverter
1nos 30a pwm controller
1nos 100ah battery
2/3nos 150w panels( connected IN PARALLEL)
installation accessories like DC breakers are usually standard.
you need a breaker to be able to isolate the PV unit.
you need a breaker to be able to isolate the batteries too.
a SPD ( surge protective device) is usually required on both AC& DC sides of the system. this greatly increases cost.

cables:
PV cables: you go for 3nos panels, you need cables to bear 1.25*Isc*3 amps. let's say Isc(check panel specs at the back of the panel) is 9amps, you will need cable that can safely conduct 9*1.25*3= 33.75a at 12v over THE REQUIRED DISTANCE FROM LOCATION OF PV TO YOUR CONTROLLER. use a minimum of 10mm PV flex ( student price - just go for full core ordinary 10mm not flex, to save cost)

Battery cables: I doubt you will load the 1kv to its load rating. however your DC BATTERY cables must be rated for the highest continuous load current expected. so that's 1000/12 = 83amps at 12v. (practically a 25mm cable should do)

there are actually websites where you could check the required gauge of cables for DC projects. you can surf the web for that.


since it is a school project you need not go ballistic in expenses, you are required to demonstrate working proof of concept. so leave out the american brands of stuff. a visit to Alaba will suffice or some good natured vendor here will do the us the honor of giving you a student discount.

peeps, let's get our guy over the line!

mcTrinity:
Hi Lexi,

thanks for the compliment.

the sticker is not a rocket science... I simply prepare the writings with my laptop. then I print them and cut them neatly with scissors. #see pic

then I use transparent tape on the front and trim off the excess tape, then I apply the UHU Adhesive glue on the other side before placing it on the desired spot. the tape is to protect the tags

for the bigger ones, I laminate them, trim them before using the adhesive to glue them.

Cheers

thanks, nice inexpensive trick. very professional result. you're good!

DeutschMariano:
AM ALERT!! What a way to start the weekend
AL - 18th June Interview - 10th July AM - 9th August
School - HAW Hamburg Course - Bsc Information Engineering.
Glory be to God!!!

congrats bro!!!

BetaTechnicians:
Yes I understand, but switching of PV under load? I have seen breaker go up in flames in such scenario which is why I'm asking if there's a fail-safe method for such.

you can also try PV Disconnect boxes rated 1000vdc, but the current rating may be less than PV max current. battery disconnect switches/isolators are rated 48v/300amp in some cases.
take your pick.
midnite solar produce their disconnect units suitably rated, though on the high end in costs.

I prefer a suitably rated breaker though.

BetaTechnicians:
Yes I understand, but switching of PV under load? I have seen breaker go up in flames in such scenario which is why I'm asking if there's a fail-safe method for such.

a suitably rated DC breaker caught fire? well, that is strange. I have not had that experience yet. I switch off the PV breaker, then battery breaker each time I inspect battery terminals once a month. no issues so far. maybe the breaker was under rated or AC breaker.

gurus can shed more light on the matter.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Thank you very much!

always welcome. let's know how your experiment goes.

olaolu11:
Thanks for the pics. I will post drawing of my proposal presently. Thanks

hi, from your pixs, you intend connecting 2 controllers to the same set of panels? please don't. bad idea. let the higher amp controller do the job. you do not have enough juice to keep new battery on float while you charge and use old battery.

BetaTechnicians:
Real Nice Design, would save your template .

Which meters are those two?
How/do you isolate the PV without glitch under load/during sunlight? as you stated near the changeover.

the text on the sticker mentioned a PV breaker somewhere. he switches off the breaker, before changing battery selector I believe..