Macmilla's Posts
Nairaland Forum › Macmilla's Profile › Macmilla's Posts
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double3:How does bleeding work in a Honda accord 2006 v6? |
bignero:I'm really confused here and I would like to learn. What is the link between a tire that is loosing air and the beam of the car? If a tire is loosing air, does that not mean it's leaking? Are you not supposed to be looking for the point of leakage? Please enlighten me. |
Mynewdawn15:I just checked and flex pipe is intact, sir. I mentioned that bank 2 catalytic converter (front one) has been gutted out. Could it be the cause of this strange noise? Maybe air vibrating in the empty chamber. Cos I've checked and double-checked for leaks and couldn't find any. Though I don't know why it would disappear after like 2 min of engine running. This thing is driving me nuts. |
kellystech:OK, it should work for you. Just follow the steps as I stated. If you have any questions, I will be here to answer them. Let me know if it works. |
kellystech:Is it the same issue described above? |
Do you have a 2003-2007 Honda accord or any other Honda car that use same master window switch? Do you have the problem where only the driver's window works, and when you operate the other windows, you hear only a click? Have you been told you will buy a replacement switch? YOU DON'T HAVE TO! unless you just want to waste money. ![]() The above problem is the commonest problem with this accord window switch, but other faults are possible. So let's first make sure this will actually fix your problem. To do this, while everything is still connected, you have to jump pin 1 (black wire) and pin 3 (white/green wire). See pictures below. After bridging two wires, check if all the other windows work. Do they? If yes, then this will work for you. Now you might be tempted to leave it this way since everything now works. But that will be a big mistake cos two days later, your car battery will be drained. This is because the other switches will remain on even when you have turned off your car, the light of these switches can be seen on. Not a very smart idea. Don't take this short cut, it will cut your battery short. ![]() Now disassemble the master switch completely and bring out the pcb. You will need a short wire and a soldering iron to connect the two points pointed in the pictures below. BE CAREFUL NOT TO BRIDGE ANY OTHER POINTS WITH YOUR SOLDER. DONT BLAME ME IF YOU MESS UP UR CAR. After bridging the two points with a short wire, reassemble the whole thing back. If you do the soldering right, all the windows will function and turn off as expected. NO BATTERY DRAIN. They will also roll up with the remote as supposed. Thanks to Z-speed on youtube.
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iyke4:I strongly doubt if that hit was the cause of your transmission problem. I see no link between that and the tranny. The tranny probably had some issues before. |
Macmilla:A little more info on item 1. Car drives and shifts kinda fine when driving from stop. Accelerates fine, and gearbox shifts fine. Problem is mainly noticed when already at about 70kmph and I try to kick down to overtake or just to accelerate hard. While going about 70kmph, as I press down on the throttle, RPM will only rise very slowly, and gearbox will not respond. Feels like the throttle has very little effect. I keep going down on the throttle till its almost floored, then the kick down happens, the RPM suddenly rises, and the car moves with a lot of power that I have to catch the brakes. Going from 0-100 is smooth and fast Going faster from 60-100 is annoying Any more advice will be appreciated. |
Macmilla:UPDATE: 1. Fuel pump replaced as suggested by Gazzuzz. I don't know if the new pump is strong enough for the big engine, but Car movement remarkably improved. 2. Still sounds like a 1985 pickup when started in the morning. I may have to dismantle the whole exhaust system and re-examine it. 3. Engine starter serviced some days ago and has been starting every single time. I guess the starter gas always been the problem |
Mynewdawn15:Thanks boss What will I be looking out for? Blockage? Leakage? |
GAZZUZZ:OK boss. I don't have any misfire codes. I don't have the equipment to check for fuel pressure, so I will swap out the fuel pump for a new one. As mentioned, the exhaust system was worked on. Some Lagos boys decided to replace the bank 1 cat with iron wire, which was pushed down by the engine to block the 3rd cat. This resulted in a very loud leak as the air had to find a way out. All this was fixed and a new cat installed in bank 1. Bank 2 still has an empty pot (no cat). But the whole thing still sounds like there's a leak on cold start. Visible steam comes out of the tailpipe on cold mornings. So I'm pretty sure there's no restrictions. |
Macmilla:Oga Gazzuzz please help |
Billiebaba:Already did, sir. No error codes. |
GAZZUZZ:Good day boss. I have this 2006 Honda accord v6 (discussion continues). It has a couple of problems and I need help with it. 1. Car seems to loose power. It drives like a weak old 4cyl engine despite being a fairly new v6. Some times the throttle will need to be pressed all the way down before the gearbox kicks down. No, the gearbox doesn't slip, it changes smoothly. No check engine light. Air filter has been cleaned. 2. When started in the morning, it sounds like it had a leak in the exhaust, but sound normalises as the car warms up. You barely notice the bad sound when fully hot (not completely gone). Car had a bad exhaust gasket, which was fixed. All attempt to find another leak proved abortive. One of the three catalysts is missing in the pot, though pot remains intact (don't ask me how), but the remaining 2 are in very good shape. I don't think the missing catalytic converter is the cause cos catalytic converter is only responsible for emissions, but I might be wrong. 3. The car fails to crank sometimes when the ignition is turned. I have to return key to 0 and then try again. Sometimes it cranks on the 2nd or 3rd attempt. I was told it was the ignition switch on the steering column because it makes some tiny sparking sound if the key is turned slowly to start. I've replaced the ignition switch, sparking sound is gone, but sometimes it still doesn't start. Any advice will be highly appreciated. Tnx |
luvinhubby:Good day boss. I have this 2006 Honda accord v6 (discussion continues). It has a couple of problems and I need help with it. 1. Car seems to loose power. It drives like a weak old 4cyl engine. Some times the throttle will need to be pressed all the way down before the gearbox kicks down. No, the gearbox doesn't slip, it changes smoothly. No check engine light. Air filter has been cleaned. 2. When started in the morning, it sounds like it had a leak in the exhaust, but sound normalises as the car warms up. You barely notice the bad sound when fully hot (not completely gone). Car had a bad exhaust gasket, which was fixed. All attempt to find another leak proved abortive. One of the three catalysts is missing in the pot, though pot remains intact (don't ask me how), but the remaining 2 are in very good shape. I don't think the missing catalytic converter is the cause cos catalytic converter is only responsible for emissions, but I might be wrong. 3. The car fails to crank sometimes when the ignition is turned. I just get a click from the engine. I have to return key to 0 and then try again. Sometimes it cranks on the 2nd or 3rd attempt. I was told it was the ignition switch on the steering column because it makes some tiny sparking sound if the key is turned slowly to start. I've replaced the ignition switch, sparking sound is gone, but sometimes it still doesn't start. Could it be the starter going out? Any advice will be highly appreciated. Tnx |
larrixauto2017:Good day boss. I have this 2006 Honda accord v6 (discussion continues). It has a couple of problems and I need help with it. 1. Car seems to loose power. It drives like a weak old 4cyl engine. Some times the throttle will need to be pressed all the way down before the gearbox kicks down. No, the gearbox doesn't slip, it changes smoothly. The engine just doesn't respond as it should. No check engine light. Air filter has been cleaned. 2. When started in the morning, it sounds like it had a leak in the exhaust, but sound normalises as the car warms up. You barely notice the bad sound when fully hot (not completely gone). Car had a bad exhaust gasket, which was fixed. All attempt to find another leak proved abortive. One of the three catalysts is missing in the pot, though pot remains intact (don't ask me how), but the remaining 2 are in very good shape. I don't think the missing catalytic converter is the cause cos catalytic converter is only responsible for emissions, but I might be wrong. 3. The car fails to crank sometimes when the ignition is turned. I just get a click from the engine. I have to return key to 0 and then try again. Sometimes it cranks on the 2nd or 3rd attempt. I was told it was the ignition switch on the steering column because it makes some tiny sparking sound if the key is turned slowly to start. I've replaced the ignition switch, sparking sound is gone, but sometimes it still doesn't start. Could it be the starter packing up? Any advice will be highly appreciated. |
GAZZUZZ:Good day boss. I have this 2006 Honda accord v6 (discussion continues). It has a couple of problems and I need help with it. 1. Car seems to loose power. It drives like a weak old 4cyl engine. Some times the throttle will need to be pressed all the way down before the gearbox kicks down. No, the gearbox doesn't slip, it changes smoothly. No check engine light. Air filter has been cleaned. 2. When started in the morning, it sounds like it had a leak in the exhaust, but sound normalises as the car warms up. You barely notice the bad sound when fully hot (not completely gone). Car had a bad exhaust gasket, which was fixed. All attempt to find another leak proved abortive. One of the three catalysts is missing in the pot, though pot remains intact (don't ask me how), but the remaining 2 are in very good shape. I don't think the missing catalytic converter is the cause cos catalytic converter is only responsible for emissions, but I might be wrong. 3. The car fails to crank sometimes when the ignition is turned. I just get a click from the engine. I have to return key to 0 and then try again. Sometimes it cranks on the 2nd or 3rd attempt. I was told it was the ignition switch on the steering column because it makes some tiny sparking sound if the key is turned slowly to start. I've replaced the ignition switch, sparking sound is gone, but sometimes it still doesn't start. Could it be the starter packing up? Any advice will be highly appreciated. Tnx Cc: Luvinhubby |
larrixauto2017:Is this only for Toyota/Lexus cars? |
950k sir |
950k Should I call? |
Do you have rubber door seal of 2007 accord? |
Do you have for discussion continues? Any pics to see what it looks like? Price? |
Hondajosh:Car seat replacement or car seat cover? |
I made a mistake by not making moves to arrest this guy. |
TPound:This is a very big insult on RX. Putting a 4cyl engine in that big engine bay is an insult to the engine bay. The sight of it disgusts me. Imagine a power bike with a keke napep engine, just because of fuel economy. But Naija go still buy am. Someone is rich enough to buy RX, but scared of buying extra 1k fuel. Naija, I hail thee. |
propertyarena:Bros, if money is not the problem, buy a front loader. If you need durability, buy top loader. FL will give you luxury, but also more frustration and less durability. They are more complex, and with more complexity, comes less reliability. Some have heaters if you want to wash with hot water. Some also dry. My sister uses one and complains about one thing. Once you click the start button, no going back. The door locks and won't open till it completes the process. Forget about throwing in that boxers you left out. TL will give you peace of mind, durability, and a bit less luxury. I am not talking about those twin tub, but the single tub automatic ones. They do the basics automatically. Soak, wash, rinse, and spin. At least mine does all that and that's basically all I need. It doesn't dry. And I can always throw anything in anytime. I have been using it for 3yrs now with no complaints even though I didn't buy it new. So you know what you are looking for. But as for the inverter part, I have no clue on what to tell you cos I've never used one. |
Roon9:Can a 1.2kkva inverter comfortably power a 2 bedroom flat with one inverter fridge and ceiling fans in all the rooms and palor. All energy bulbs. With a 55" led TV and decoder. |
Interior and engine pictures. |
800k, sir |
lexman200:Why is it that Nigerians are always ready to insult people? This was a simple question from a potential customer that is aimed at a little laugh, and all you do is rain insults on him? Nigerians seriously need re-branding. We are just too damaged. |
Still available? |
SOLD |
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