₦airaland Forum

spyder880:
Hello friends, this lovely thread should not be allowed to go scanty, lest it becomes boring. So let me add a few pictures of wall decorations I have seen used on outside walls of buildings in no particular order. This is not an advertisement, but a way to show what is possible in case someone is trying out a bit of design combination, I don't sell these tiles, just feed your imagination and have a happy weekend.

Modified: these tiles sell for about N5,500 per square meter.

Daboomb:
Do you put the weather, (temperature the felt will be constantly exposed to), in Nigeria, compared to the UK, into consideration?

Once felt is laid, very low temperatures as obtainable in the UK, keeps it hard and thick.
In Nigeria, a felt that is exposed daily to temperature in the late 30's, everyday, will soon start to melt away (the gum/tar), as we have seen on some houses and even on tarred roads.

What about the suggestion of using a Hydor-sealant, mixed with a little Cement, to refloor the Decking such that it provides a water-repellant layer, ontop of the decking?
That l think should take care of the seepage.

my opinion though, my one cent.

Daboomb:
Hmmm.. this probelm can be very frustrating, my friend went through hell, before he sorted his own.
I was with him all the way because 'l told him what does not have mouth, cannot be wiser than two intelligent adults'.

I want to see if l can request him to post me his pictures, so l can share it here.

- Since the leak is from the side edges, it is due to hydrostatic pressure from underground water.
- The more you seal it, the more the pressure increase, as water must find its way.
- Nothing can stop that pressure, except the type of 'instant dry cement mix' used in consturcting bridges but you are not Julius Berger so you wont have that.

Here are what you need to do:

Requirement: Concrete mix sealant like HydroSeal. (Contact this guy, Peter Olabode 07060415187. A 5Litre keg was 16K)
One length of 3" pipe. A few Bags of Cement. Enough PVC Construction Nylon to cover the base of the tank. Sand, some Granite and Iron Rods.

1. You are buying Concrete Sealant which you will mix with the Cement mixture, used in flooring the base.

2. You are going to lose some depth since the problem is already there. Leave the side leakage alone, let it leak.
You will be creating a completely NEW BASE. (But you can save cost by reducing the amount of iron since the first/current base is strong enough to prevent collapse but not enough to prevent water ingress.)

3. Get a good, working Water pumping machine on ground. You will need this to pump water continiously for at least the first 12hrs and intermittently afterwards, depending on how quickly the water returned.

Important: The 'sucking' rigid hose of the pump (the hose part that sucks the water from ground into the pump machine) should be less than 3". You will need to remove the strainer at the end, so it can enter a 3" Pipe.
Suck all the water out first and then proceed as below.

4. Put 6" blocks, randomly on the current floor of the tank (about 12 to 18 blocks will do, depending on the size of your tank(let us call this floor, 'floor 1', for easy nomenclature). The new one will be called 'floor 2'.
The blocks will support the new wooden base of 'floor 2' while also allowing water to pass around between them.
Dont crowd the floor too much with blocks but put enough to support the weight of the new floor and the person who will be casting it!

5. Put 1x12" wooden planks on the blocks to form a platform, so the new platform has a height of one block, above the old 'floor 1'.

6. Using a plum-line, mark out a new baseline for the tank (all around the walls, just along the plank line).

7. Chisel about 2" deep (horizontally and vertically into the wall, all round the tank wall, at the edges of where the wooden platform will start from.
The idea is to create a good bond between the wall and the tank base you are about to construct so that the water does not have a 'direct route' upwards, when it tries to come up.

8. Cut a hole at the centre of the wooden platform, just let it be big enough to allow you to insert the 3" Pipe. No bigger, No smaller please.
Important: dont cut the hole at the side, water pressure is greater at the sides and more difficult to manage! Pumping machine hose will also be difficult to handle, from the sides.

9. Lay the PVC Nylon on the wooden platform. Leave enough Nylon at the sides so you can push them into the crevase you chiseled earlier. This is to increase the difficulty of the water in sneaking past the the tank wall and make it even more water-tight.

10. Cut out a 4.5ft length of the 3" pipe.
Important: dont cut longer (difficulty ot handle).
Dont cut shorter (it wont likely hold the water long enough and the water will come back to spoil the job).
4.5ft is just about the best length.

11. Insert this pipe into the hole cut into the wooden platform.
Let it tilt at an angle of about 60-degrees to the floor (or 30-degrees from the vertical).
chuck all the surrounding edges where the pipe meets the wooden platform with more PVC Nylon.
All the excess Nylon will be buried within the Cement, when you are doing the flooring.
Dont let any of them stick out otherwise, that is where the leakage will come from.

12. Put some iron rods on the wooden platform, enough to give the new tank base some/enough strength (a few rods, criss-crossed will do. nothing elaborate)

Now that you have prepared the floor,
13. Insert the pump's hose into the 3" pipe, let it touch the old floor (floor 1) and suck out ALL the water that would have accumulated between the blocks and the wooden platform.
Leave the hose inside the 3" pipe and start the pump once in while, maybe every 15-20mins, depending on how quikly the water rises.

14. Mix adequate amount of Cement with Sand, that can give you a tank base thickness of about 3" - 4".
Add a few granites to it (not too much as to make it too dry or have air pockets/holes! ).
Add adequate cement please so that it can pour in a manner that will fill all hole/air gaps and so it can dry quickly!
Shovel the mixture properly to give you a good mix.

15. Add the rquired amount of HydroSeal (as per instructions on the Container), to 'enough water' in a bucket.
This is the water you will use to mix the Sand-Cement-Granite mixture.
Stir properly and pour into the Cement mixture.
Mix properly and add enough of this Hydroseal/water to the Cement mixture until you have a good slurry that is wet enough to 'pour'. (Dont know how to better explain this but the mixture must not hold shape, when shoveled into a head pan, it must stretch-out like a slurry).

16. Pour this onto the wooden Platform.
Let the Bricklayer work it into the chiselled edges properly and around the 3' Pipe.
Keep pumping out the water from under the platform, through the 3' Pipe.

17. As long as you keep pumping out the water through the 3" pipe, never allowing it to get to the level of the new platform, for at least 18-24 hours, (when the misture should begin to be strong enough to withstand some pressure), you will be okay.

keep pumping for about two days. The water will start rising through the pipe and may even spillover through it, ONTO the new flooring!
You may see some of this water and other water on the new tank base but dont worry about them, that is just the Cement 'spitting out' the water you used in mixing it (my friend nearly has a heart attack when he saw this water the next day, thinking the thing has failed again! )

18. keep mopping and drying-off all the water on the new floor (dont crak it with your weight, if it is not yet strong enough to carry a humanbeing).
Watch it for another day but this time, pump-off the water rising through the 3" pipe and dont allow it to spill over to the floor, just to ensure there is no leak afterall.
The pressure is what is pushing the water up the pipe and if it were not long enough, it will spill onto the new floor before it is adequately dry and not being dry, it wont be strong enough to withstand the pressure (e go leak!)

19. Finally, Suck out all the water underneath the new floor (floor 2) again and immediately use a lot of PVC to block the pipe (pushed down its length till it is under the floor, upwards till it is about the height of the wooden paltform.
Then pour dry cement down the hole and end it with a mixture of Hydroseal mixed with just dry cement only (No sand, No granite). Dont make it too wet (unlike before), just enough to wet the Cement.
Fill it up all the way to the end of the hole, meaning about 2-3ft above floor level.

20. Cut off any excess pipe after this 3ft.
It should dry-up before the water rises to push it off.

Now you have conquered the water.

NB: I have tried to make this as detailed as possible (long story!), so it can benefit anyone who has the same challenge or anyone about to engage in the process, a first time.
Twice my friend has to break and remove a particular Septic tank becaus just wont stop leaking, until we did it this way.

meohio7777:
Good evening House, I got this quotation for a Septic Tank Size 12 BY 12 and 8 FT DEPTH in a water log area. I want to know how reasonable this is. Thanks
1 TONS OF 12 MM .......................N237,000
8MM IRON..10 PCS@ 1500............N15,000
BINDING WIRE HALF ROLL @........N 8,000
IRON BENDER WORKMANSHIP.......N46,000
SINKING SEPTIC TANK.................N68,000
FILLING INSIDE SEPTIC TANK.......N45,000
CEMENT 68 BAGS @2700.............N183,600 (DANGOTE)
WATER PROOF CEMENTS @ 1000 X 20BAGS...N20,000
WATER PROOF LYLON................. N15,000
BRICLAYER
=======
CASTING WORKMANSHIP.............N35,000

CAPENTER
=======
2 BY 3 PLANKS @N300 X 60................N18,000
1 BY 12 PLANKS @N1450 X 84...............N121,800
NAILS 3 INCH HALF BAG @N5000...........N5,000
WORKMANSHIP.....................................N35,000
40 TONS OF SHARP SAND @45K PER 20 TONS....N90,000
GRANITES 20 TONS @60K PER 10 TONS.....N120,000
TOTAL.....................................................N1,062,400

Thanks again.

spyder880:
No, roofing wood and carpentry payment.

spyder880:
Just about N11m. Roofing with Gerard stone coated tiles planned for this week. The client chose black colour as roofing material.

madmanmega:
Like someone earlier said, every project is unique and consequently the cost will reflect that. That being said, there is a method professionals use to get a "rough" estimate of projects cost.

It goes like this. You get the total floor area of your project and multiply by N55,000
So if your ground floor plan is 180 square meters and your first floor plan is 195 square meters

You add the two which gives 375 square meters and multiply by N55,000 which gives a total sum of N20,625,000

This sum is for your structure alone and the N55,000 rate is middle of the road in terms of quality and finishes. A very smart contractor can squeeze a N45,000/ square meter rate. And I know of someone who did his project at a cost of N33,000 per square meter. As in after the project was finished we measured the total floor area and divided by the total cost. But he is very experienced, a tough negotiator and very hands on, he also designed the project and was able to know where to cut corners without compromising the structural soundness and aesthetics of the project.
So N55,000 is okay and if it ends up being too much, then the fallout is you save some money.

That being said, there is a reason Quantity Surveyors spend 4 years in Uni to learn this stuff, so find one and tell him to make you a Clients Bill and pay the man. His work will be much more accurate and detailed with break down of each stage. If you are thinking of spending money to build a duplex then you def can afford a QS.

Cheers.
PS I am an architect.

spyder880:
Anyone who wants to inspect this land location should contact me to show him or her where the area is located. I am sure you will love the site.

greenermodels:
we achieved adequate ventilation by careful placement of rooms(rooms like kitchen and bathrooms don't need cross ventilation), however, not all rooms are cross ventilated by windows which is to be expected in almost all blocks of flats. the estimated budget is 32 million.

calabardick:
Brother, I know how you feel, not in this present Nigerian economy, but please before you take your action, please take time to read the following;


PROPERTY EVICTION: The Rights of a Landlord

It is generally believed that landlords are belligerent, troublesome people who lord their properties over tenants and try to make life uncomfortable for them but this is not always true. Just as tenants have been at the mercy of landlords, landlords have also been treated with contempt and maligned by tenants. Frustrated with tenants who refuse to pay rent, damage their properties and cause conflicts amongst other tenants, landlords are often faced with the option of ejecting such a tenant. There are however rules by law that must be followed and a landlord needs to know these rules so as not to be in err of the law.

By law, it is wrong for a landlord to forcibly eject a tenant no matter how much rent he or she owes or how cantankerous such a tenant is. The recovery of property by law in most states in Nigeria and anywhere in the world really unfortunately for landlords is in the favour of the tenant. This is done by the different law making bodies of the states to curb the excesses of landlords and ensure that tenants are not entirely at their mercy to be treated anyhow. A landlord who therefore wishes to eject his tenant for whatever reason must use the method prescribed by law.

The law states that a landlord must give his tenant reasonable time to vacate the property by serving him a quit notice and this is dependent on the tenancy period. For a yearly, tenant, the law provides that he must be given a six months quit notice, a quarterly tenant, a quarter’s notice, monthly tenant, a month’s notice and a weekly tenant, a week’s notice. The quit notice must be written and served on the tenant. These provisions are however subject to the tenancy agreement between the tenant and the landlord. In a case where it is expressly stated in the tenancy agreement that no notice will be given to the tenant, the landlord can go ahead and eject such a person without notice as long as the tenant duely executed the tenancy agreement.

In the case where a quit notice has been served and the tenant still refuses to vacate the property after the notice has elapsed, the law still does not permit the landlord to take matters into his hand and forcibly evict the tenant. Rather, the law expects another seven days notice of owner’s intention to recover property to be served. This notice is usually from the landlord’s Lawyer or Agent’s Legal Unit, informing the tenant his intention of proceeding to court to recover the property on behalf of the landlord.

It is important to note that this seven days notice of owner’s intention to recover property can only be served on a tenant after the expiration of a valid “Notice to Quit”. If served before a notice to quit or during the life span of a notice to quit, it is invalid and discredited. Also, this seven days notice is counted seven days from the date the notice is served. If it is less, the court will most likely reject its validity.

In the case where the tenant is still in possession of the property after a seven days notice has been served, the tenant is referred to as a statutory tenant i.e. a tenant of the law. This is because the law is allowing such a tenant to maintain possession of the property without paying rent to his landlord. However, after the court hearing, the court can order the tenant to pay rent accumulated in the duration the tenant held the property after notice has been served or what is referred to as mesne profits to the landlord.


PROPERTY EVICTION: Rights of a Tenant

Relationships are the bane of human existence; they are what sustains us, keeps us going and makes us alive. Whether we want to or not, our very nature is woven to rely on relationships and in the course of our lives, one of the relationships we will have is the landlord-tenant one. Unfortunately, this relationship is one of the most controversial relationships in life. It s filled with issues, conflicts and disputes and are often not amicable resolved even where attempts are made to resolve them. The sensitization of people to the fact that the law can be used to deal with a lot of the problems characterized in this relationship has however turned things around. Especially the mediation approach where a win:win situation is usually the objective.

Once upon a time, a landlord could wake up one day and decide he wants the tenant out of his house; perhaps out of spite, perhaps because he needs the property urgently, perhaps because he has a better offer. Whatever the reason, it didn’t matter. The landlord is the alpha and omega and the tenant at his mercy. Failure of the tenant to comply would often result in a forced eviction. The tenant is forcibly removed from the premises with his or her things thrown out and sometimes, the tenant’s property is removed from the premises in his or her absence. Call it “Jankara” or “OPC” method, some landlords and quack agents have almost perfected this act of illegality. The trend has however been abated with the realization that such actions is frowned at by the law.

Regardless of the type of occupancy, whether informal settlements, lease, rental accommodation, cooperative housing or emergency housing, or the type of housing or interest of a person in a house, all occupants are entitled to a measure of security of tenure which guarantees equal protection against intimidation, harassment, threats and forced eviction without due process of law. This means that no landlord, whether individual, a corporate organization or even the government, has the right to take matters into his hands by ejecting a tenant without resorting to the law. The landlord and Tenant relationship is guided by Law and both parties have their cover or protection against any untoward behavior of the other party in Law.

As a tenant, it is your right by law to have adequate notice to quit if your landlord wishes to take possession of his premises. No longer can the landlord come in the morning and ask you to quit by evening if he has not served the appropriate and due notice. Lawfully, the notice to quit is what puts an end to the term created by a tenancy and this is usually stated in the tenancy agreement. Where it is not expressly stated, a weekly tenancy is terminated by a week’s notice, a monthly tenancy is terminated by a month’s notice and a quarterly notice is given to terminate a quarterly tenancy while a yearly tenancy is terminated by six months notice. The nature of a tenancy is determined by reference to the time when rent is paid or demanded.

Some tenancy agreements have shorter or longer notices. Some even state that notices will not be given in the case where the landlord wishes to eject the tenant. This is why it is important to read the tenancy agreement carefully before signing because the law honours agreement between parties, and in the case where you sign a lawful agreement that limits your rights, you will be bound by it. Claiming you didn’t know holds no water because ignorance of the law affords no excuse.

In the case where the landlord takes you to court as a tenant, the court cannot eject you without hearing from you. This is because the amended 1999 Constitution of the Federal Republic of Nigeria states that all persons in the country have certain undeniable rights which include the Right to Fair hearing. No person (tenant) can be tried in a competent court without allowing him to be heard. As a tenant, you also have the right to sue your landlord if he does not follow the due process of the law and forcibly throws you out.

Thanks

LorDBolton:
Sir ur problem is naivety, rents are not renewed upon expiry of the agreed date!

What u should do next time is agree on a duration 1yr? 2yr? Then inside the agreement u state that 3/4months to the expiration of the agreed duration the tenant shall make known his INTENTION TO RENEW OR NOT,

Upon signal to renew the new rent shall be paid on/b4 1month after the expiration of the rent agreement failure to do so the landlord has the right to repossess his property.


That is why rents are expensive now sha cos landlords have started adding lawyers and agents to the mix.
I don't knw what u can do right now o, BUT i'm just telling u how to avoid a repeat...

Forget the law a solid rent agreement puts the landlord in control.

Deafndumb:
I guess the DNA won't be a problem, accessing the child won't be too difficult as the mother of the girl would definitely accept. But I don't think she will ever allow the girl go out with me for now let alone the baby without she going with us.

My fear now is she said something about me manipulating the test results so as to deny the baby, that she must be physically present at the lab.

Why would she think I would go through all this just to manipulate the result just to avoid taking the responsibilities I had already shouldered since January?

Mind you they are financially buoyant and can influence the test results if she knows the particular lab to be used

evansjeff:
I'm a masters student of UNIBEN, prof just threw this question at us and since we are starting exams on Wednesday here, it's only logical to suspect it's an exam question. Though I've done some works on it already but I feel I might get some more brilliant elucidations from gurus here, it's not like a question we can just get answers for from any of the numerous voluminous books of the course, it demands application of knowledge. The question is:

"cite arguments for and against the statement that psychological and educational testing is consistent with a belief in the dignity and worth of the individual human being".

Thanks in advance.
Mods please move this to front page so more persons can contribute.

Principe:
Good day,
Please a plot owner wants to sale his,if you are interested kindly contact Oga spydder

spyder880:
I just called them and they needed a number to call to deliver the package. Please do me another mail with the phone number they need to call so they can drop it soonest. Thanks.

spyder880:
Documents dispatched to your address via courier. Thanks.

spyder880:
Hello my good people,

I sent us all a group mail, please tell me to resend if you did not get a copy of the mail. Thanks.

spyder880:
Your survey plans are ready, the documents are now with my lawyer, please forward your preferred address as you will like it to appear in the land document to my mail box, if you have a different mailing address, please send.

spyder880:
Completed Documents for plot numbers 1 and 4 is ready for dispatch. I just picked them up from the lawyer this evening.

elfadconcept04:
I will do the precast parapet for #4000 labor charge, provided your it's on the first floor and #5000 for second floor. Material requirement is quite cheap. A few bags of cement, sharp sand, binding wire and quarter rod. going by experience, I av not used more Dan 30/40 bags of cement, No mata Hw big d size of ur building.. Nevertheless I need to c d building to prefer d right qualities.
The 2nd question u asked. It is precast parapet. It is cheaper than to cast ur parapet insitu. U save the following :
1. granite,
2. 12/10mm iron rod,
3. Plywood,
4. u don't av to plaster it wen plastering ur external wall.
5. U won't need to pay labor fee for ironbender, carpenter for formwork of d parapet although they we still av to work on d roof beam. The precast parapet is anchored to d room beam. Room beam is straight forward hence d charge is low compared to carpenter n ironbender doing both d beam n d parapet.
6. Structurally, u av reduce excess load dt us usually not factored during design from d building.
I just finished parapet work for one of those following this tread at okota. Kindly call 07082866677 /08037217936 # Elfadconcept

spyder880:
Plot reserved, thanks.