chukel: it's not about money. It's awareness. Most car owners depend on their illiterate mechanics.
Nail on the head.
I remember in 2010 or so, I was at my then mechanic. At his neighbours setup, a 2007 - 2011 Toyota Camry just had an oil change and one of those oil treatment concoctions was being added to the car. Guy was definitely rich to afford a current model Camry at the time. Just imagine what the combo of consistent 20w-50 + thick oil treatment would have done to the engine.
chukel: even 2014 corolla and above run on cvt. It gives better fuel economy. Just do routine maintenance. I see a lot of corolla being sold in future as Nigerians are not maintenance conscious. They will run these cvts without changing fluid. When it becomes problematic, they run ATF in them and finish them up.
Your last sentence really cracked me up 🤣. It may even be Seahorse or Dozzy oil ATF.
rogerman: I would like to know as well. Because the prices that these car dealers are calling are truly ridiculous. Like why would I buy accidented 2014 sport with cloth seats for 8m.
Have you tried to buy dollar recently? The price will only go higher with the way things are going.
kingreign: I don't think I can get used to the rubber band feel of a CVT, plus, in my own opinion, it feels slooooowwww
In reality it's faster than you think it is.
Where is the road to enjoy these cars? If road is good, traffic rears it's ugly head
On topic, difference isn't too much if driven in Sport (when you want to feel fly ). Some manufacturers have tweaked the software side of things to mimic the feel you get from an automatic.
rogerman: Lovely thread you have created here Piyke. Was planning on getting the 2014 v6 but came across this thread and now I am conflicted between v6 and the 4cyl. I felt the timing belt was the only bad decision honda made in the v6 and is something I can live with. I don't know why I just dislike cvt transmission. Subsidy wahala and cost of fuel is not really an issue for me.
Also considering the problems you mentioned with 2013 and 2014 should I go for 2015 above instead and maybe consider Nigerian used? Bearing in mind that I want to keep my budget as low as possible.
How has your experience been so far and what advice would you give me. How has maintenance been? Is it still a good choice to go with the 9th gen accord today?
I think it just boils down to you.
If I really loved the V6 I would have gone for it after a careful consideration of its drawbacks. Foreign-used are usually better but doesn't mean you can't get a good Naija-used. Detailed pre-purchase inspection by someone who knows his onions is gold. Knowing a bit of the service history if available will help. E.g. Seahorse ATF in the transmission I hear you on CVT. Not bad at all. You get used to the new feel.
jceesquare: This looks nice. You mind sharing what material it's made of and estimated cost?
Thanks. Material is polystyrene sandwich panel, one of the options for prefabricated houses. Cost really depends on location. I saw quotes as high as 2.4m and over. I got mine for much much less. We are finalising the build and I chose a few extras, will know final cost once complete. Current status is below
olumzzz: It's doing well. Our fuel no reach octane rating 95. You're close enough. What are you getting on the highway?
You're even quoting 95. I think I recall seeing somewhere that it's 87 octane as what is used in Nigeria. I believe given the Nigeria factor, we probably don't get up to 87 octane
On a serious note, some comments on Instagram @radautoworks said that the owner was better off selling the car with the damage to the top gasket. Well as you can see, a blown top gasket does not mean having to replace your engine if your auto repair shop techs know what they're doing. Afterall the person buying it is going to fix it right? 🤷🏾♀️
Oh and the job came with a 6 month warranty.
EXPECT BETTER FOR YOUR CAR 🙌🏽
Do you have the facility to skim blocks at the shop? Did this one need it?
I just watched a video and the guy was saying it's bad to fill the reserve tank. He said pouring more fuel after the pump kicks will damage one gas chamber. Na true? I always fill up my tank until it can't take another drop.
The guy is correct. Your practice is very bad. It will damage the EVAP system over time.
Piyke: This is why I haven't entered the challenge. Was already tracking a refill before you posted. I was gunning for 400miles (2017 Accord) before the fuel low warning light. However, I had an unforseen cargo haul for around 30miles at speed and this has thrown off my plan. Also I entered one horrible unusual traffic yesterday . Will have to plan for next refill.
Low fuel warning light finally came on at 378miles (606km). The above 2 things I believe got in the way.
Vehicle stats: Car: 2017 Accord EX Engine displacement: 2.4L Transmission: CVT Tank capacity: 65L AC: Always on except cold mornings.
MPG for this run: 28.2 (city/highway)
I'll refuel and track again. Still shooting for 400miles.
Spent 5hrs idle with the AC on yesterday while fixing the
windshield Tint Headlamps Wipers
And a couple of accessories. It really messed up my mileage as the vehicle was not moving.
But we still move .
190miles (305km) covered and still counting
This is why I haven't entered the challenge. Was already tracking a refill before you posted. I was gunning for 400miles (2017 Accord) before the fuel low warning light. However, I had an unforseen cargo haul for around 30miles at speed and this has thrown off my plan. Also I entered one horrible unusual traffic yesterday . Will have to plan for next refill.
agoodman: Mobil 1 5w20 which is the recommended oil.
City driving is in grades. City driving in Lagos for example, can't be compared to city driving in Abuja. Inclines, time spent in traffic are all factors that affect city mpg.
Do you know what the highway mpg is? That may be a better measure to go by.
Finally, our fuel here isn't great, after you've done all the tune ups you can, the quality of our petrol is the final enemy.
agoodman: 2008 Honda Accord, catalyst intact and no check engine light or any light on the dashboard. 18mpg city. I've done everything to improve the mpg which is supposed to be 21mpg according to the manual but no changes.
tsiriman: I thought it was the 10th generation (2018-2023) that needed a catch can.
I didn't do the filter as I don't want to go intrusive, I'll keep doing a drain and fill till maybe atleast 100k miles before changing the filter.
I'll check the videos.
Most GDI cars fair better with a catch can. It cuts the amount of oil vapors coming from the PCV and landing on the back of the intake valves. Not much of a problem on port injection engines, since the fuel washes over the back of the valves. However, it's a biggie on GDI engines. Using a borescope since the install, my intake valves now have a dry appearance and not a gunked up wet look, meaning less oil gets there now.
Totally get you on not going intrusive. Got the OEM stuff filter, and should make a video while at it.
tsiriman: Reading this thread and I'm wondering how someone could think exactly like I did and do almost exactly what I did, had to keep checking to confirm it was not me that wrote the thread sometime back.
I got a 2016 accord i4 Ex-l early days of covid, for the same reasons as you; Android auto, timing chain and maintenance. ..etc. prior I had a 2013 Ex which I totaled in an accident.
I also searched many car lots and online (Instagram, twitter, cheki) all I saw were accidented and mostly badly repaired. After searching without success I also had to use a friend to buy though IAAI then shipped VIP on Grimaldi, I got a non accidented with just hail damage and 59k miles, was abit expensive then but dollar was 425 then.
Some of the few things I did were change the windscreen then paint the boot, top and bonnet due to the hail spots. Aside that I didn't do any repair, car was clean and had a VIN auto check score of 92. I also changed the rear sway bar to that of 2012 acura TSX (17mm) which was thicker than stock honda, it reduced body roll and understeer, the car felt flater at corners.
I've changed the CVT transmission fluid twice since I got the car, 1st change was immediately I got it and the second was after a year plus, I want to keep the CVT clean and smooth, will do another atleast by year end when the car will be 3years old. When I got the car I also drained the coolant and replaced with the same honda original coolant. I've been using same tires (for 2.5years) the car came with though I might have to change them before year end. The car came with clean new Good year assurance tires. I changed the low beam lights to high lumen LED bulbs but left the high beam as they were. The car came with tints which I left on but added a 70% ceramic tint on the windscreen. Changed all inner lights, boot light and license plate lights to white LED lights.
I love and enjoy Android auto and will not now buy any car that does not have it. I currently have over 75k mileage but less than 80k, mostly city driving. I've changed break pads once with genuine honda front and rear pads, might be due for another before year end. The car came with 2 keys so I have driver1 and madam has driver2, I like the fact that if any of us drives we don't need to adjust the seats the memory seat adjust based on the key that was used to unlock the car. I also really really love the remote engine start.
Oh I remember one repair I did last month, the rear camera stopped working so I got a replacement on amazon and fixed, camera now working.
I hope and pray to upgrade to 2023 accord hybrid (fuel price not smiling), I've had 3 accords in the last 10 years; a 2008 (which I still own and drives great), a 2013 totaled in an accident then presently a 2016.
Nice buy. Enjoyed reading your post.
I've bought the HCF and the transmission filter. Should be doing that soon. Best mod I've done on this car was installing an oil catch can. Piston tops don't build up as much as they used to. It's something I'd advise any owner of this Accord to do. Video is on the channel. I like the 2023 too. I don't like the build of the 2018 - 2022. All the best...
Kokomo: At work mileage did you buy it ? I heard the transmission of the 03 is sensitive, did you had to replace it during the usage period? What were your preventative maintainenace.
Thank
Bought at 153k. Changed ATF strictly with DW1 at around every 30k miles. I stayed with the same tranmission to the end. Before I finally sold it started to have delayed engagement into Drive and then a jerk on 2 to 3 only when cold. Once the transmission warms up it won't do this. It had no other symptom.
ayobami52: Good day bro, Read through the thread and some of your other threads, and I found them outstanding, well done. My first car was 04 accord and since then I have fallen I love with Honda, but I had to let it go in 2021. Now I want to get 2010 Accord, I would appreciate if you can in search for one around you ( Nigeria used preferably cos of my budget. I would also love to have your contact if you can share for some other enquiries. Thank you Kind regards,
Hey, thanks for the compliment. Do you mean to help you search? I actually don't have a service for this. I also saw the Nairaland notification that you sent me an email, but I can't find it. Maybe, resend?
Went for my usual Maxxis but was informed that it's out of stock. Seller recommended these Armstrong tires. I did a quick search on the brand which I hadn't heard before. It scaled the crucible. Have you had any experience with this brand? I'm yet to install.
Side note.... With the whole fuel subsidy removal and the anticipated add-on inflation... that also pushed me to rush and pick up new tires which had been on the shopping list for a while. If you have any major purchase you want to do and the cash is sitting idle, better to go pick it up!
To think that I got a good accidented 2017 Accord in 2021, and fixed it up for a total around 6.9M, just tells how much inflation is dealing with the car market, (plus dollar jangulover). Govt. policies need to change.
Was in small Lesotho recently, and a resident said a good 2016 car (forgotten the brand/model) wasn't up to 2M.